How does one drive a tank
#26
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From: winnipeg, MB, CANADA
I love how you corrected the TV guy 3 times i think and he still didnt get it right
wonderful model btw
and fwiw when you see the modern stuff doing crap like that its usuallly just a driver in the thing and he is strapped inside so tight he cannot move at all
I jumped a grizzly "6 wheel apc" off a ditch back in my younger days at night in black out drive and knocked myself and my TC out cold for about 25 minutes
shattered the front wheel frames and ripped the wheels off and the drive shafts as well not to mention digging a 20 foot furrow through the ground
this was your standard dirt road ditch and i think we hit it doing about 25 mph
slow is alot less painful on your body and you spend less time in maint
and even less time getting barked at because you broke the boat
wonderful model btw
and fwiw when you see the modern stuff doing crap like that its usuallly just a driver in the thing and he is strapped inside so tight he cannot move at all
I jumped a grizzly "6 wheel apc" off a ditch back in my younger days at night in black out drive and knocked myself and my TC out cold for about 25 minutes
shattered the front wheel frames and ripped the wheels off and the drive shafts as well not to mention digging a 20 foot furrow through the ground
this was your standard dirt road ditch and i think we hit it doing about 25 mph
slow is alot less painful on your body and you spend less time in maint
and even less time getting barked at because you broke the boat
#27
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From: Hong Kong, HONG KONG
I drive my tank depends on the terrain and what I'm after.
On flat plane, sometimes I'll go flat out, crush vegetation and ford the water on the way.
Whenever my tank encounters wet mud it'll go straight in the do a dozens of neutral turns in order to get the mud onto the tracks.
In dense wood of course accuracy and slow speed are the best way to go, it's always a test of driving skill to navigate through the wooded areas and to avoid potential traps.
On flat plane, sometimes I'll go flat out, crush vegetation and ford the water on the way.
Whenever my tank encounters wet mud it'll go straight in the do a dozens of neutral turns in order to get the mud onto the tracks.
In dense wood of course accuracy and slow speed are the best way to go, it's always a test of driving skill to navigate through the wooded areas and to avoid potential traps.
#28
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From: Cardiff,
ON, CANADA
I vote for driving a tank as a tank not a dune buggy. Tank drivers had to keep in mind if you throw a track you are a sitting duck. A tank will go around an obsticle rather than over it. As a tank driver if you break it the crew has to fix it you can't just call up AAA. An old saying from the movie The Beast.... throw a track become a pill box, run out of ammunition become a marter(sp)
#29
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From: , OR
I try to drive mine through every nast hole possible. Thats the whole reason I bought one ot begin with because they are suppose to go through nast stuff, well at least real ones, and Ilove tracked vehicles.
Definartley disapointed with the palstic h; versions. Cant drive through any kind of sand or sticky mud, but just maybe, with lots of metal mods I can do it down the road lol.
My stug was running strong for quite awhile until I took it to a nasty mud pit and the gear box slipper finally started wearing out, now it throws tracks a little too easy.
Definartley disapointed with the palstic h; versions. Cant drive through any kind of sand or sticky mud, but just maybe, with lots of metal mods I can do it down the road lol.
My stug was running strong for quite awhile until I took it to a nasty mud pit and the gear box slipper finally started wearing out, now it throws tracks a little too easy.
#30
To make the driving realistic I've added metal, tracks roadwheels, suspension uppgrades, dual batteries and so on to my Tamiya King Tiger. Now it weighs +8kg's. To cope with the added weight I fitted Impact gearboxes but changed the piniongear from 10 to 8T, that will give the total ratio of 130:1 instead of 105:1. The Impact suspension is also adjusted so the first two set and the last three roadwheels are softer than the rest. Just to make it rise in the front while accelerating and climbing. Also fitted Turnigy chip last weekend, that helps alot. It's slow, but my HL Tiger 1 is even slower with the 3:1 gearboxes with black capped motors, it's also much weaker.(I use the same battery type)
#31
Real ones most certainly do NOT go through everything..although the power is there if the situation permits, they are still machines with many complex parts that do break. If they break at the wrong time, your butt can be hanging out to be shot to pieces. Throwing a track and winding up in a rice paddy is also not the most pleasant of circumstances which causes you to loose a lot of friends real fast. A tank that cannot move is not a tank...it's a monument and a prime target. Sticky mud is your worst enemy and avoided like the plague. Movies you see of tanks crashing through houses (without a cellar) and bouncing over brims or flying over a ramp are propaganda flicks for uneducated silly-villians and most guaranteed to spend the next day(s) in the maintenance shop for suspension repairs. The rest of the platoon/company is off....but the crew of that tank and the manitenance section is hard at work. Take Hollywood early war films and recruiting films with a grain of salt and chuckle.
#32
I agree! If they have to drive through an area with difficult terrain I guess it will be slow slow. Thats one of the reasons why I have 130:1 ratio in my KT.
#34
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From: exeterdevon, UNITED KINGDOM
As others have already said I like to drive my tanks slowly-even the KV with stock metal gearing can be driven realistically, with care. Something worthbearing in mindis that we are seldom in a position to drive in a scale landscape-that gravelsurface scales up to boulders a couple of feet across!
I'm picky where I run them too; no water, sand or mud and dry, firm surfaces only so nothing is over-stressed.
I'm picky where I run them too; no water, sand or mud and dry, firm surfaces only so nothing is over-stressed.
#35
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From: calgary, AB, CANADA
Snakestretcher you make an excellent point about the scale of the terain. What do most demonstrations show obstacles of 1 meter (3 ft) high as an average.
#36
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From: Hong Kong, HONG KONG
I drive my tank through most things, water, mud, sand, grass, tarmac, pebbles and various vegetation with no problem. Practice makes perfect is the key.
I personally think even model tanks should be offroad and almost all terrain
I personally think even model tanks should be offroad and almost all terrain
#37
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From: Everywhere, MB, CANADA
I find the super spin super annoying on my HL based tiger1. I makes doing slow maneuvers difficult. I'm getting sick of trying a slow pivot only to have my tank suddenly jerk into a spin ![:@]!!
I have seen enough combat footage of tanks taking down trees and small obstacles in a mad dash but except in specific terrain (ie: desert or open plains) you almost always see tanks moving on roads. It's funny to actually see film of Tiger tanks lined up like sitting ducks going down a muddy road. You say to yourself, "why aren't they spread out and cruising through those open fields?" I think this has been said a few times: They drove down the road in a line because they didn't want to end up immobile in an open field with a damaged suspension or thrown track.
That being said , I too bought a tank so I could thrash it. However I spend more time fixing and re-engineering my tank than driving it and most of my driving time is spent doing slow maneuvers, trying to master controlling a tank. My goal is to able to drive my tank and make it react exactly as I want it to. Which in my case means trying to make my tank look as real as possible.
As for stunt drivers... I don't think it looks right in these meets that I've seen on the youtube (and I just wouldn't play against a 80mph sherman) but it's up to them and the people they play with to decide how they should run their tanks. I sometimes use my tank to push around metal lawn chairs in my back yard (it's a concrete slab) but I wouldn't drive through a building barrel first in a combat meet even if I could push through three at once (unless it was a special demo!)
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I have seen enough combat footage of tanks taking down trees and small obstacles in a mad dash but except in specific terrain (ie: desert or open plains) you almost always see tanks moving on roads. It's funny to actually see film of Tiger tanks lined up like sitting ducks going down a muddy road. You say to yourself, "why aren't they spread out and cruising through those open fields?" I think this has been said a few times: They drove down the road in a line because they didn't want to end up immobile in an open field with a damaged suspension or thrown track.
That being said , I too bought a tank so I could thrash it. However I spend more time fixing and re-engineering my tank than driving it and most of my driving time is spent doing slow maneuvers, trying to master controlling a tank. My goal is to able to drive my tank and make it react exactly as I want it to. Which in my case means trying to make my tank look as real as possible.
As for stunt drivers... I don't think it looks right in these meets that I've seen on the youtube (and I just wouldn't play against a 80mph sherman) but it's up to them and the people they play with to decide how they should run their tanks. I sometimes use my tank to push around metal lawn chairs in my back yard (it's a concrete slab) but I wouldn't drive through a building barrel first in a combat meet even if I could push through three at once (unless it was a special demo!)
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