3D Print Project SSYMS 80 ton 1/16th Scale
 

Hey guys, https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...510ed672f3.jpghttps://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...7c039ab699.jpghttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...7533ecda1f.jpgThe Blue bogie picture is the STL file I downloaded, the other a picture of the CAD Rendering the scratch builder uploaded.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...b4e86350de.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...ecbc149bfa.jpg
More to follow!
Steve

Hey Steve!
Long time no see. What printer are you using? This things going to be huge!
One word of advice - get some metal underneath it to reinforce everything, if you are using PLA it will warp and sag in hot weather, especially if you are planning on leaving the Tiger on it for any length of time.
Keep us updated,
Martin

Cool project. Please do keep us posted. That with a section of rails and road bed under it, and a Tiger on it, would be a work of art. A few scale dudes and you would have a lot of good eye candy.

Martin,
Thanks!
I have a Creality CR-10S printer

I have modified the chassis with holes that I will install 2mm and 1mm steel rods that perform two functions alignment of the parts and reinforcement of the joints.
I also have two 4mm stainless steel threaded rods with metal reinforcement plates where they pass through and sandwich the multiple plastic beams with nuts on either side.
Additionally I will JB Weld (Steel Epoxy) the component pieces together. I think it should hold. If not I will reprint the Chassis in something else either PETG or ASA or as a last choice ABS.

Steve

I have already printed the 1/16th scale track I will use, I plan on mounting them to a piece of wooden shelving, I will likely use wood for the railroad ties (sleepers).
Steve

Steve, if you are using PLA glue it with Plastruct Plasticweld - its chemically very similar to styrene and it bonds really easy.
Check out the CreawsomeMod for Cura if you are using it (currently I think 4.1 is supported, not sure about 4.2 yet?) , the fine details aren't as good as setting it up manually (the mod limits you to a minimum 0.12 layer height, I like to go down to 0.04 for really fine detail if I have large vertical surfaces to print and don't want to sand them to much after) but if you want to do large parts at a decent quality in a short amount of time its the the way to go. I cranked out a pair of (fake) rubber pontoon floats on my CR10S4 in no time at all the other week at 0.2 layer height with no issues, and those things are massive compared to what I usually print.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...56625af026.jpg

Martin,
Thanks! I have used Plasticweld before on PLA, however I prefer to use this, "Weld-On 4 Acrylic Adhesive Solvent" it woks great and is fast drying, full strength bond in 72 hours, after that try to separate and the PLA will come apart not the bond. I have also had excellent results with the steel reinforced JB Weld just have to rough up the surface a bit, that PLA is pretty slippery.

. I did see a comparison video between different adhesives for PLA and to everyone's surprise Cyanoacrylate (SuperGlue) came out on top it worked better than even using a 3D printing pen to literally weld the two pieces together for the test. The test was fairly unscientific but interesting nonetheless.

Great looking pair of pontoons, I told a girl that once got slapped!
Are they actually watertight and float?

I typically print at .2 for most things or down to .1 or .15 for details, I am suprised at the amount of detail that even .15 provides.
I will soon try .06 as I have a couple of really small items to print, I did them at .15 and they turned out pretty good but I'll try .06 just to see how much better they can be.
Steve

Not tested them yet, going to have to negotiate with a friends' toddler to see if I can 'share her paddling pool' with them :rolleyes: . They should be watertight atleast, whether there is enough bouancy to make them functional is another question...

Edit: I'm told that the stepper motors on the creality machines work in 0.04 increments - something to bear in mind :)

Also: Cyanoacrylate is great when its new, but it degrades pretty quickly. I was put onto 3M Scotchweld PR20 a while back, its amazing when fresh, but it goes off after a a year or so and then its every bity as bad as the cheapest grocery store offering :(

I had seen somewhere that .06 was the lowest layer height my CR-10S was capable of printing

. I don't rely on CA for a bond that will be stressed very much, usually mine don't last a year anyway, With the high humidity here in Florida, once you open it you better use it soon or it will be unusable, usually mine start to thicken first, so they become like the Gel consistency that you find..
Steve

Keep in mind I am printing this flatbed rail car just as a static piece to display one of my tanks, I had to make sure it could support the weight of my heaviest Tamiya tank (13lbs.) damn those metal parts, damn those metal tracks!

I have had my 3D printer running for the last few weeks almost non-stop to print all of the parts I have modified or created. Each section of the main chassis takes about 27-28 hrs. to print out. While printing the third section of the chassis the extruder nozzle on my printer clogged about 20 hours into the print. To say I was disappointed would be an understatement.I was able to recover from the failure and continued on. After the recovery I continued to print the other parts I created or modified. I plan on using strips of wood as the surface of the flatbed, just like on the 1:1 scale rail car.Here are the parts I have modified so far:1. Main chassis (sectioned for printing, added alignment holes and holes for threaded rod to reinforce) added structural beams instead of the original solid top, which would use way too much material during printing and take way longer to print. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...98dad047a8.png
2. Top deck frame, sectioned to match chassis, The wooden planks fit inside this frame. This part was created when I removed the printed plastic planks from the STL file as I wanted to use real wood for the planks. 1:1 prototype this is part of the beams that make up the sides of the chassis, I lowered it’s profile slightly so the wood projects above it in the right amount. (me eyeballing it)
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...5c1b3a8524.png
3. Bogie Units (sectioned, removed gigantic coupler from one of the bogie units) I may reprint another without the coupler for the second unit, apparently this coupler box was required with the 1/148th scale train setup and was not prototypical of the full size rail car.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...61ae16d279.png
4. I had planned to use the existing wheels and modified them somewhat for the axles, but scaled up they looked so bad I had to create new ones that look much better.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...d1129f3617.png
5. Modified Axles to go with the new wheels and fitted bearings for a smoother ride (I couldn’t stand the idea of the plastic axle turning against the plastic bogie assembly just grinding away plastic, not that its going anywhere).
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...dbc1c22e33.png
6. Modified downloaded RR Track (scaled and added alignment holes and holes for fishplates).
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...c79e023408.png
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...0327c2f51e.png


Here are the parts I created, so far:1. New Buffer mounting plates with the proper holes for the proper couplers and mounting buffers, with through holes for springs.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...c735fc570b.png
2. New Buffers (spring loaded with convex surface only on two buffers the other two have flat surfaces one of each on each end of the Flatcar.)
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...42bb1f3be2.png
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...bf5ce1bf24.png
3. Fishplates for the track joints
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...82e0637c2b.png
4. New wheels (existing wheels scaled up looked like toy train wheels with a faceted perfectly horizontal rolling surface) I added the taper real railcar wheels have and a similar profile and a smoother rolling surface.5. Proper prototypical coupling units (Shapeways gets around $60.00 for the detail set that has these)
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...c9946ab304.png
I am in the process of designing these, I have a hook designed but will probably redo it as I finally found a drawing of a real one I can use to match the profile of these, it is pretty tough to do this without plans as I have to just eyeball it to figure on the approximate size. Luckily these parts are small so I can print them and size them physically, which works best for me.

I am going to use 3mm threaded rod in the center of these coupler parts, they will actually be functional, Why? It was just as easy to make them work as have them be one solid piece, plus it is good experience to learn how to make things fit together in Tinkercad. I prefer making functional parts hence the Buffers will work as well.

Here are most all of the parts.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...ce2d251fc7.png
Ultimately it will look something like this.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...081df77f52.jpg
This will give you an idea of it's size.with my Tamiya KT on board.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...4b7ce788b0.png
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...b71e174d92.png


That's it so far, more later.

Steve

Really fascinating stuff here, Steve. For me the ultimate dream is a permanent outdoor tank playground and Village, complete with a true 1/16 scale garden railway. Though I know I probably won't live long enough to make it happen with all the projects I've already got on the list, I can't help but look at this and wonder how I would make it functional. The one photo you show of the underside of the carriage in red and yellow makes me think I could make a frame from aluminum and the frame would be all the parts that are red (maybe just start with a sheet of 1/2 inch plate aluminum and mill away all the areas I don't want. That would be pretty easy.) and then 3D print the yellow plastic side parts for attachment and use wood planks just like you want to. I believe European rail cars of the era had the coupler attached to the frame of the car, not to the frame of the truck. I saw instantly what you meant about the truck being modified for the model railroad car.

Anyway, great stuff, and I can't wait to see where you go from here.

Crius,

The car as I have designed and will build it will be functional, I planned to be able to drive my 13lb. tank onto it (I have yet to design and print out the ramp the Germans used).it should be strong enough. I have also designed the axles for ball bearings, so it will roll smoothly. If I planned to use it outdoors as part of a Garden Railway I would print it out in ABS plastic or another type like HIPS.

I removed the coupler from the bogie the actual rail car had the couplers attached to the ends of the chassis not the bogies.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...2c2ffaa9db.jpg


If I were to construct it out of metal (Aluminum) I would get the basic chassis/frame CNCed out of a single plate for strength the sides are separate beams on the real car so I would do them the same way and just bolt them to the chassis. The bogies could be built up from CNCed plates as well the ends are nothing more than "C" channel beams but unless you have the ability to Heliarc small Aluminum pieces I would probably use brass instead


If I were to build the car completely out of brass, the chassis could be built up from brass beams or I beams the same as the prototype, you would still want the bogie sides CNCed as there are many cutouts in them that would be painstaking to do by hand, with a dremel tool or other tools especially to do four that match. The guy that scratch built the one in 1/35th scale had the plans all scaled for his build out of plastic sheet they could be adapted for a CNC to make those same parts out of Aluminum or Brass once scaled.
Plus he did all the work and drew them up in a CAD program which look great, he may not be willing to part with those files as he has put in a lot of time making them.

I will post a picture of what I have printed so far, soon I will be ready for assembly. That is when the fun really begins, still designing some smaller details and lots of sanding before I get to the assembly part, but I am test fitting as I print things out..

Well here is the picture of the parts I have printed so far as of a week ago,
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...72a59f64d2.png

In the picture the silver colored axle is new it was redesigned to accommodate the bearings.

I have been designing and printing additional parts ( no picture yet) that were not included in the 3D download the more I researched this SSYMS the more I find was missing. I was somewhat dissatisfied with the bogie assembly, the axles are not in alignment with the detail of the axle boxes, at it's original scale you would never notice as it was probably only off by a millimeter or two, but once scaled up to 1/16th scale, it became very noticeable to me at least. .

Seeing the scratch build done on the Missing Lynx website inspired me to do more than I originally intended. I decided to rebuild from scratch (more or less) the bogie assembly along the lines of the scratch built bogies. I was able to massage a drawing with a good enough resolution to use as a guide to 3D model the bogie side plates. I will try to use the parts I have already printed for the other bogie assembly, but we'll see how that works out.

The newest parts (not shownin that picture) are all related to the new bogie assembly, the side plates and crossmembers as well as the axle boxes, since I did them from scratch I made them look as close to the real ones as possible just working from pictures and drawings.It take me a bit longer than some but half the additional time is figuring out how to make the parts easy to print and assemble.
Here is the newest parts in the design program.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...7d0f318270.png
I made the end crossbraces interlock with the side plates for a positive fit, I had considered using screws to join them, but I think glue will work as well and not everyone has small screws to use to assemble it.

Interestingly I recently found that I had some wrong information about the location of some components, I went back to the drawings I had downloaded and recheck the scale drawings and found that not everything in the drawing was to scale some dimensions were correct some were not, they were off by a pretty good amount, I imagine that German draftsman got into some trouble for his errors and ended up on the Russian front drawing water from a well. (a little draftsman humor)..

Going forward I will rely on the numeric value in a drawing (when given) and not the drawing itself.
I am getting closer to assembly time once I am done designing and printing parts.

Steve.

Now that's funny right there!

Here are the printed parts assembled as shown above.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...35dac7ad6e.png
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...fc15ec450a.png

I was having an underextrusion problem with my printer when I printer those parts, it was very intermittent, some smaller parts would print fine but other parts would not. I finally resolved it and now I am back up and running properly.

As it turns out underneath where the green crossbar is located is an "I" beam that supports that plate, I have decided to add it to the assembly as it adds additional strength to the bogie. pictures to follow.

Steve

Looking good!

I opted to create the inner support members for the Bogies, they are basically a vertically elongated "I" Beam with holes in them. I made them in four pieces for easier printing, no supports required. the amount of strength they add is considerable.

I didn't know that we were supposed to be guessing

I didn't either. I even went back and looked and still can't figger it out.

No guessing required, I just figured someone would ask the question, what could it possibly be?

Well here is what it will be.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...9569c9f3f9.jpgA Fries Crane, the 16 ton capacity overhead gantry crane, this is what the German mobile tank maintenance crews during WWII used to service tanks, enabling them to remove turrets and to hoist the engines, transmissions and drive assemblies out of the tank's hull. Of course no one makes these in 1/16th scale.

I found the 3D STL files for one in 1/35th scale, compared to the injection molded 1/35th scale models this one was devoid of a lot of detail, in fact many components were replaced by a simplified expedient, which looked nothing like the real prototype.
Mine will not have all the details present on the prototype, but much more than what I downloaded at least what my limited CAD capabilities will allow.

I''ll start a separate thread for it when I get to a point it makes sense to start one. Got to finish the Rail Car first!
Steve

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...0d0abadb93.jpg
Way ahead of you there buddy ;)

I'm using Volker Ruff's book as a reference: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Strabokran-...s%2C141&sr=8-1

Martin,
As am I, at least I will once I receive it, actually I have designed almost all the parts already, using what I could of the files I downloaded (not very much). Similar circumstance as before, probably should have started from scratch. I did that on the girders as the frame work on the downloads they had them rectangular instead of square. I also had to invent the mounting points to look more accurate. Not to Hi-Jack my own thread but here is what I downloaded.
Villie Vonka Panther Factory

Not to beat the guy up too bad, as I am sure he has a lot of time and effort invested and I probably wouldn't have thought of doing it from scratch originally, if I hadn't seen what he had done. He did leave a lot out of the model.
Here are some of the more bold errors, the axle and wheels,
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...9807acdebd.png
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...95f373b3d9.png

.The round things with the flats on one side are the axles.Here is a photo of the real Crane and a 1'35 scale model of one..
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...5206ef2d3f.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...1f48f69a20.jpg
Here is what I have done.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...d0c43f8c46.png
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...08f304d625.png
The biggest thing that through me off was in his pictures he has the upper support girders upside down which made his platforms incorrect when I went to put them right side up. I understand why he did it, normally in a support structure you want the larger area on the bottom, but the Germans did not do that with the upper support, the big end goes up.

Anyway this project has been running concurrently with the SSYMS Rail Car, when I got tired of working on it I would design something for the Fries Crane.
So it is coming along as well.
Martin, since you have the book, you will spot all that was left out of the downloaded model and have an idea of all the parts I will have to create.
Wish me luck!
End of my Hi-Jacking my own thread!
Steve

Well I guess the gauntlet has been thrown down huh :cool:

I assume you were planning to print one? A little friendly competition?

I may be way ahead of you on designing parts, but yours will likely be more accurate since you have the book to start from, I understand the book has a dimensioned drawing in there of the whole crane, at least one of the reviews I read said they did, they also said the book was worth it just for that drawing alone, never mind all the photographs.
Here is something I had to do from scratch, some of the 1/35th scale kits don't even include it, from what I have read.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...65759c43a1.png
I like your rendering, how much have you printed?
Have fun!
Steve

Yeah its on my all too lengthy to-do list, I suspect you might get yours done first at the rate I keep getting distracted :D ...

One of the things I really do like about Fusion 360 is its ability to import an image and scale it for use as a reference - its not perfect, but its good enough to get you somewhere close enough that you can lay the basic shapes out and tweak them afterwards:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...a6b1582225.jpg

Martin,
Tinkercad definitely has it's limitations. You can import an SVG file to use as a template, which is what I did for the SSYMS Bogie sideplates.
That bracket for hoisting the Panther turret looks like it would be a pain in the butt to design.Steve.

Wow! I am impressed! great work!

Thanks Will coming from you that means a lot, your Panzer IV thread is great.
Steve

thanks, i hope you can make it up to Danville again soon! some more updates coming to the Panzer IV thread as well!

I will try to get up to Danville in November if possible, I'll bring some of my projects along with a couple of tanks to run.

Steve

I hope you can make it, its been a few years since I have seen you there!

Yeah it has been a while never seem to have the time & money at the same time always one or the other, maybe this Nov. or next May.
Steve .

A lot has happened since I last posted, mostly work got in the way and I moved to a new address, (boy did I have a lot of hobby stuff to move). it took me until almost December to get the 3D printer back up and running.

The good news is with all that work I got some additional funds to help along my projects.
I purchased a couple of 1/35 scale kits to use as a reference to create parts from, instead of relying on the inaccurate drawings (I still use them just not only them).

I bought the Sabre SSYMS 80 ton Kit for this project and the Takom Strabokran with the V2 Rocket 1/35th scale kit for my Fries Crane project. Since it includes the V2 and the trailer I guess I will have to model the rocket and trailer at some point after these two projects are done.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...13c91149ed.jpg
Sabre 1/35th scale kit
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...0f457c977d.jpg


Surprisingly I found that some of the SSYMS parts I modeled for 3D printing weren't very far off from the way the kit parts were done.

Anyway with this new found reference information, I decided to redo the main bed of the SSYMS rail car to make it more prototypical and add some additional detail.
Using the kit as a guide I measured the kit parts and derived the 1/16th scale dimensions for most of the parts I created, I did reference the dimensions on the German drawings I had when the kit parts did not jive with reality ( not many instances of this but a couple).

Luckily I only had to make a few compromises in designing parts so that they would be easier to 3D print.
A good example was the main framework of the bed, In 1:1 scale it was of standard I-Beam construction, in 3D printing the only way to print an I Beam as one piece is to print it standing on end, this is not the best way to print a 270 mm beam as the layer lines are along the wrong axis for it to have any strength, it would easily snap in two when any load was exerted on it.

Ideally the way to print it is lying down but with the overhangs it would require a lot of support to print the horizontal section. It also extends the printing time dramatically which would be unacceptable.

The solution is to cut the I-Beam into two parts, the lower section has the flat part of the beam with the vertical upright section and the upper section is just a flat piece with a slot for the vertical part of the lower section to fit into it. I had done this before with the I-Beam for the Bogie cross-braces.

I constructed everything together in Tinkercad and then grouped all of the upper sections together created an object of them and did the same to the lower sections In order to print these parts they were sectioned into three pieces, as have the side of the bed. With the slots in the pieces, alignment and assembly of the upper and lower sections is relatively straightforward.
There are also holes in the different sections to allow for alignment and joining I use piano wire which goes all the way through the center section and into the end sections.

Here is a couple of the parts I created in Tinkercad.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...7cc88321f2.png
SSYMS Framework Bottom
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...81f7b13222.png
SSYMS Framework Bottom Upside down

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...6008abe5d0.png

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...d6f2da6d1a.png
SSYMS Bed Redesign WIP


Joining the three sections was relatively easy but joining the top of the framework to the bottom was not as easy as I would have liked, the problem? SHRINKAGE!

In 3D printing whenever you try to create two parts that mate together you have to allow for some shrinkage of the parts, which includes slots, holes, posts, inside and outside dimensions, the hard part is it varies depending on the particular filament's properties, some shrink more than others and may shrink more on one axis than another and may vary by the thickness of the plastic.

Suffice it to say there is a lot of shrinkage going on! I have found by a little trial and error, by printing small sections of mating parts first to test out how much to compensate for the particular joint of the two pieces.

Sorry if this is getting a little technical on the aspects of 3D printing but it may help those new to 3D printing and prevent some headaches.

At this point I should mention I have found a filament that I am now using for this project, I will likely use it on any new projects requiring strength and or flexibility It is called "POLYMAX".
It is more expensive than traditional PLA that I had been using (about $40.00 USD for 750 grams) but they claim it is 9 times stronger than standard PLA filament and comparable in strength to ABS filament without the toxic fumes.

After using a whole spool on this project and different items, I for one believe their claims, it's great! It prints very well with normal PLA settings on my CR-10S printer and is very strong and very flexible.

Back to the parts, I was able to get the parts to join together properly after some adjustment to the dimensions (read filing and sanding) and some reprinting.

Before I started redesigning the bed, I actually started adding some detail to the end plates. On some of the SSYMS rail cars they have a folding handrail with a handle that I believe allows them to control the braking from that position on the car.
With the kit as a guide I started designing the handrail and control. Of course I also had to design the attachments, The top of the handrail has two semi-circular bends that allow the top to conform around the buffers when folded down so that it is low enough to not get crushed by the 60 ton tank as it drives over it.

The Polymax filament was purchased originally in order to print this handrail and associated parts which are fairly thin with enough strength to not break easily when handled.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...432909c69e.png
Updated Endplate Handrail mountings and Brake control
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...af2927ab37.png
Closer Handrail halved view with holes to match uprights



I'll post some pictures of the printed parts as soon as I get around to shooting them.
That's it for now.

Hello

Look here for insperiation.
https://www.fertigungswerk16.at/shop/

There are the Strabokran and some other Trainparts

Greetings Olaf

Olaf,
Thanks for the link to that site, it looks like they are doing high quality work using an SLA type printer. I will say that after looking over some of the parts in detail, my FDM printer does as good a job or better on some parts as their SLA printer. May have more to do with the design of the parts or layer height they are using for those parts.
I wish I had the time and resources to design, build and print some of their projects. The trick is probably finding high quality drawings with dimensions on them.

I probably will do the V2 at some point and the transport trailer and maybe the launch platform. There are already several V2 models out there I would probably just remix one and add some details.
Steve

Here are some more of the parts I produced for this project in a little more detail.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...b287b2a029.png
I think I prefer the 3 spoke wheel, apparently they used both types.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...c98ee918b6.png
These are the Handrail mounting parts
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...963b4acf0f.png
This part goes between the lower and upper bed framework and supports the bed over the bogie pivot point.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...8d74f60d83.png
These are the bed sides sectioned to fit the print bed they each have alignment holes to allow piano wire to be inserted to join the part and give the joint strength.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...255a89adb3.png
These wooden parts were in the 1/35th scale kit, so I replicated them in 1/16th scale and they will be printed in Hatchbox wood filament.
Pictures to follow.
That's all for now.
Steve