top end needle valve is loose
#1
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top end needle valve is loose
I'm assuming this is not how this valve is supposed to be. please watch this short clip.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUG1xWC5B7U&feature=youtu.be should I just get some hi temp rtv or do I need to make a more substantial repair.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUG1xWC5B7U&feature=youtu.be should I just get some hi temp rtv or do I need to make a more substantial repair.
#2
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No that is not correct at all...tighten that up....also check that HSN setting...I doubt the head of the needle should be proud of the housing....what model and engine is that?
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I thought it was loose because of a bad weld or something like that but upon closer inspection, it turned out to be threaded into the carb. So I was able to tighten connection.
https://youtu.be/I6bRiDaAOf0
https://youtu.be/I6bRiDaAOf0
#5
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Hi product78,
The black plastic fuel connection should be tight between the brass needle housing and the body of the aluminum carb.
You will find two flat spots at the bottom of brass housing, and that will allow you to tighten the housing down. You have a choice of where you want the fuel connection to be angled, so keep than in mind and hold it in the correct orientation.
With that lose a connection, I would have expected air leaks and tuning issues. Maybe it just got that way.
Anthony,
This looks like yet another SH variant. I think your right about the needle position, but product78 is still getting this run-in the old school way.
The black plastic fuel connection should be tight between the brass needle housing and the body of the aluminum carb.
You will find two flat spots at the bottom of brass housing, and that will allow you to tighten the housing down. You have a choice of where you want the fuel connection to be angled, so keep than in mind and hold it in the correct orientation.
With that lose a connection, I would have expected air leaks and tuning issues. Maybe it just got that way.
Anthony,
This looks like yet another SH variant. I think your right about the needle position, but product78 is still getting this run-in the old school way.
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Your correct about air leakage. I was having a hell of a time getting it started today. It did finally start, but barely. Then I realized the fuel connection was loose. Not sure how I managed to overlook it.
#8
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SH engines are a manufacturer out of China. They are value oriented. Depending who you talk to, they are either cheap crap or easy to tune and durable. I think Dynamite, Losi, SH, Exceed and many other brands are made from the same designs, with little significant changes to differentiate between them. I run them because that's what came in my ready to run cars.
You can learn and not have to worry about hurting a $300 engine if you don't get it right.
You can learn and not have to worry about hurting a $300 engine if you don't get it right.
#9
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SH engines are a manufacturer out of China. They are value oriented. Depending who you talk to, they are either cheap crap or easy to tune and durable. I think Dynamite, Losi, SH, Exceed and many other brands are made from the same designs, with little significant changes to differentiate between them. I run them because that's what came in my ready to run cars.
You can learn and not have to worry about hurting a $300 engine if you don't get it right.
You can learn and not have to worry about hurting a $300 engine if you don't get it right.
#10
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It's unbelievable how much cheaper it is to get introduced to the sport relative to just 4n or 5 years ago. I'm not in a position to say this engine is good or bad, yet. But $93 for a .28cc complete nitro engine & carb assembly seams pretty cheap.
#12
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not really that special of a deal when these days you can buy a Novarossi 28-8 port for $160.00 which is a worlds better engine then this