gothictreasures

I purchased it all from ebay. Its all new and most are HPI parts.

3- 10T & 20T kits

2- 10T bevel gears

2 screw kits

3 - 42T beveled gears

3 - washer kits

3 - shim kits

2 bottles of diff oil

$72.00

windowlicker

jesus, thats quite a lot for just maintenance...

I am looking at the Savage X SS alloy diff case, and the HB LSP Pro gears. I got my Hellfire SS second hand, from a guy who ran an OS .30 so have no idea when the diffs are going to give up, but the previous owner has loctited most of the screw so I'm going to have to dremel a notch in the screw heads to get them off with a flat head screwdriver. All the allen heads have rounded out, god knows what strength loctite he used!

Anyway, really dont want to have to spend much, and I dont want to have to replace them again after that, so will start looking around for the best prices.

Oasis, do you have the part numbers I will need, or is it literally just the HB LSP pro gears I need? will I need a shim kit or will the washers that come with the Savage alloy diff cup be ok?

windowlicker

Is it this that I need?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEWA:IT&ih=019

and

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEWA:IT&ih=018

Will they work with this alloy diff case?:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEWA:IT&ih=009

stussman

Thats the correct pinion and ring. Get those 4 sure. Dont get the original pinion and ring. You will have the same problem over and over. Ive gone through 6 pinions etc so fast its a joke, even with the correct shimming and new diff cases.
As long as your original diff cases arent worn you will only need the ring and pinion. There is a photo in this thread not 2 far back of what it should look like when set up right.
I Australia 1 only pinion is $24 each! Its a bloody joke the prices here. I cant find the spiral gears here either. I would have to order from the USA but i dont wont 2.

windowlicker

so the 4 internal gears wont usually need replacing then?

stussman

The internal gears last ok. Good idea 2 have 1 spare set incase you chip 1 of the gears, it does happen but not often.

windowlicker

Cheers for the help Stussman, I will take my Hellfire apart next time I get the chance and have a look at what needs replacing.

HRTKD

Greetings fellow Hellfire owners. I'm a total newbie to R/C vehicles and need a little help. I just bought a used Hellfire that appears to be in pretty good shape. My two boys and I have gone through about 5 tanks of fuel so far. We are working our way up to trying some jumps.

1. I'm having a little (OK, a lot!) trouble getting it to idle down. The idle goes too high. Sometimes if I bump the throttle the idle will come back down and sometimes it doesn't. I've played with the throttle trim and that doesn't seem to be the issue. I'm wondering if it is the servo since I don't seem to get a lot of brake action.

2. Starting has been a challenge a couple times. I can see that getting fuel to carb is at least part of the problem as there is no fuel in the lines. I plugged the muffler, ran the rotostart for 10 seconds or so but didn't see any movement in the fuel lines. I wrapped my fingers around the exhaust tip and then blew into the tank and that got the fuel moving. This can't be normal.

3. To keep this thing running what parts should I be looking to replace as part of a maintenance cycle? Part numbers and suggested sites to buy from would be greatly appreciated! Based on other posts I have read when the OEM differential gears go out you generally don't want to put OEM back in. Is that correct?

4. What fuel should I be running? It came with Blue Thunder 20%.

5. How long should a glow plug last?

6. What is the transmitter range with fresh batteries? So far I'm getting a good 110+ yards (I ran out of field before I ran out of transmitter range).

Any other suggestions you can give to a newbie would be helpful.

stussman

Welcome HRTKD,
The HF is not the strongest truggy around so expect a few breakages.
If the revs stay high after releasing the throttle you could have a bad tune or an air leak in the engine. Search on forums for air leaks. Its easy to seal the engine if thats the cause. Its a common problem. It could be your front bearing has a bad leak which you will have to replace. Read up on tuning, it takes practice to get the neddle right.
I always use the blow in the tube method to prime my engines. Dont over prime and flood the engine.
20% fuel is fine if you bash.
If you have the rtr you will probably bend the shock towers, break shock caps, strip diff pinions, bend the plastic chassis braces. I have all these problems with my HF. The ss is stronger but still has similar issues. When you start jumping the breakages will start.
Read alot of this forum and check out the HF section at truggyracers.com. There is heaps of info that will answer all your questions.
Do you have the standard 4.6k engine?
Enjoy, unfortunately its addictive and cost alot of $.

HRTKD

As far as I know the engine is stock. The previous owner had replaced some suspension parts already but I think they are OEM, not aftermarket. He tuned it for me when I picked it up. He seemed to know what he was doing. But then again, as new as I am to this he could have been blowing smoke up my you-know-what.

I'll look up tuning techniques. The manual isn't real helpful. Can you suggest some threads on tuning?

To make sure my kids can start the truck I think I'm going to rig up something with a basketball pump. That should make it easier than giving the muffler a blow job.

kyo crane

Hi, everyone.

Don't know if anyone notice about this problem as i have just found out that the steering for the hellfire can be improve.
As the servo turn from one side to the other (left n right) it was block, due to the design location of the servo. Does anyone know how to solve this problem, it seem like the servo safe arm connected to the servo need to be replace or relocated.
Does anyone have any ideal.

Thank.

stussman

kyo crane, iam not exactly sure if this is what you mean but i dremelled a notch on the right side servo post as the arm was hitting it on full turn.. This helped the steering. Is this what you mean?

kyo crane

Hi stussman.
Thank for the reply, yes. but this is part of it. basically i'm using the servo horn that come along with the Hitech servo i bought(5955TG, longer than the stock).The steering plate and the suspenion arm set. The steering plate will hit the bulkhead set, and the front spindle carrier set will hit the suspension arm set (i'm using the stock arm set.) By trimming a bit here n there, i can get to the max of the servo angle, from let to right 60 deg. But have set the steering limit slighty before the limit.

russ409

Hey guys,
I just bought a hellfire ss kit with the 4.6, what pipe is everyone running on that motor. Has anyone tried a pipe off of a savage if so do they work well? Thanks for the help.

gtr

My combination : K4.6HO + JP-4 , work great.

Buzz01

Picco P3 .28 with JP-3 !!

mojavemonster

I just ordered a Hellfire Diff because I heared it's a 43 ring and would fit my Mad Force axle. Now I need a 13t pinion with prefferbly 6mm shaft. Most things I've been looking at has been 8mm. Is ther a 6?

SioXiE

wats up guys? just bought a Hellfire RTR , i just finish upgrading it to the SS specs with HPI option parts courtesy of Ebay. i know the steering sucks [&o] but a high torque digital servo is already on the budget hiTec 5955TG with Futaba 3PM 2.4ghz radio and will upgrade the diffs later to HotBodies after the break in process.

Im planning 7000-10000-5000 in diff oil as well as 45wt shock oil rear and 50wt front. im running 52 on the spur and 15 on the cb.

Any inputs will be gladly appreciated.

BTW I was wondering if the bodies and wheels of the Hyper ST would fit the Hellfire? Any inputs on Hot Racing aluminum threaded shocks as well as GH Racing steering spindle and hubs ?

pics coming soon....

windowlicker

A few things, hot racing are a bit crap, soft alloy and bad finish, but they are cheap, depends if you care enough. You might want to try 5000-7000-3000, which is what alot of people use. I personally want to try 5000-1000-3000 as I think the front wheels spin too much under acceleration, causing ballooning and scrubbing of the front tyres.

Stock diffs have been fine for me, I bought the Savage SS Alloy diff case and HB ring and pinion gears, but have yet to fit them. As long as you make sure you put the diff together properly and test it for noise and slack before running it, the stock parts should be fine. But if you want to throw money at it to prevent any trouble, thats fine! Personally, I'd like to wait for a problem before spending money to prevent it, especially if the parts which break/need replacing, will need replacing anyway, I think its probably best to upgrade when something breaks, not before.

I will probably be selling my alloy dif cases and HB diff parts as the stock has been fine with me, and they're cheaper to replace than HB parts.

I run the 5955TG and its great, just make sure that the servo horn doesn't press against servo case at full lock, or pull the steering linkage out of shape. I broke my servo saver arm by not setting it up properly. Ensure its perfectly fine from lock to lock without any of the steering parts contacting, twisting, straining against each other and you should have no problems at all!

15t might be a little too high, I run a 14 though and its about right, not sure how much a 15 would be different, you may as well test them to see which you prefer.

Don't listen to everybody slagging the Hellfire off, get the SS steering rack and chassis braces and you will have a very rugged Truggy. I love mine, and don't have any problems at all with it. There are no problems with the Hellfire from what I can see which cannot be avoided by spending a little care and attention when building it. Just make sure you test out the diffs and steering as you build it up, it will save you time having to strip it all down to find out what is binding and grinding!

Have fun!

strutz52

what are the part #s to the Hot Bodies diffs and where do you get them?


Buzz01,what is that thing that goes from the rear shock tower to the front shock tower

windowlicker

Ebay, a seller called RCBoyz. There is the C9009 10 tooth pinion gear, and C9010 43 tooth spiral crown gear. Put those codes into Ebay and see what you find, think its cheaper than places like Amain, not sure though. You would need 2 of each, obv. the center diff doesn't need them.

By the way, those are the parts recommended to me by another guy on this forum. He said they last about 3-4 times longer than the stock ones. I'm yet to have a problem with the stock ones, but when they go, I'll replace them with these

SioXiE

thanks for the heads up windowlicker[sm=thumbup.gif] ill agree with what you said it will be cheaper just to replace whatever is broken, stock plastic is lighter than aluminum anyway. with regards to the diff oil, ill try to experiment with it and stock with the 52 tooth spur while checking out both 14 and 15 tooth cb. i have 2 Savage X alloy diff housing just in case courtesy of my weekend basher. All my SS parts are bought from RCBoyz and HopmeUP. I saved a lot......

Any recommended tires and rim set? as well as where i can buy shock boots?

SioXiE

thanks for the heads up windowlicker[sm=thumbup.gif] ill agree with what you said it will be cheaper just to replace whatever is broken, stock plastic is lighter than aluminum anyway. with regards to the diff oil, ill try to experiment with it and stock with the 52 tooth spur while checking out both 14 and 15 tooth cb. i have 2 Savage X alloy diff housing just in case courtesy of my weekend basher. All my SS parts are bought from RCBoyz and HopmeUP. I saved a lot......

Any recommended tires and rim set? as well as where i can buy shock boots?

Buzz01

Hi Windowlicker (nice name).

That's a brace with adjustable rubber for dampening the shocktowers, thats because i split the carbon upper deck in two (for easy maintenance).

Works wel!!

windowlicker

I've just ordered a set of the HPI blast wheels in black and a set of HPi Phaltline tyres (onroad) for any on road use my Hellfire will get. Driving on tarmac with Nubz will make them last a few seconds. I was tuning my Hellfire on tarmac because its much smoother than off road (obviously) but after just about 30 mins of straight line acceleration testing, the front tyres were nearly bald!

After the Nubz are dead, I will try buying the Proline LPR wheels and the Crimefighter LPR (Low Profile Race). I want to be able boil off dead tyres from the Rim and just buy tyres, not wheels. Its a shame the Nubz only come pre-mounted, means you have to throw away the whole wheel, and these 1/8 wheels are not cheap!