Yea I plan too the truck is at a friends house

here's some pic's

well that didnt seem to work

sorry guys i forgot how to do this

i do have the trottle servo only thing missing is the stearing servo

Hellfires dont hold their value but with the engine you might get what you want. Id buy it if you were in Aus.

hey guys. Looking for a truck or truggie. Possibly the Savage or the Hellfire. What do you guys think of the Hellfire? I've heard some bad and good things about it. Let me know what you think about it. THANKSS

I like mine. Its built well, handles decent and the suspension is good. If you look a few posts back you will see a video I posted of mine jumping. If you find one for a good price you wont be disappointed.

apparently the diffs strip really easily. and u should shim them to avoid this happening so fast. that ture? like i dont plan on using it for racing or anything, just bashing and rippin around my yard. Should i jsut replace them all together with better ones? kinda new to the nitro RC world. haha, so any help would be nice.

I have read posts concerning blown diffs in just about every model. The latest I've read concerned the new Mugen MBX6T. From time to time, all diffs are subject to damage. When I first started running my HF, I was blowing diffs much too often. But I learned the right way to build a diff. I have never blown any spyder gears and I can't remember the last time a ring and pinion blew. Point is, don't blame the manufacturer, learn to build a diff correctly. Without doing a step by step, the important things are.

1. shim the pinion close to the diff case. Manual doesn't show shims behind the pinion, but trust me, they are needed for full tooth contact.
2. shim new straight cut ring and pinions "crunchy". They will wear in smooth.
3. spiral cut gears from HB can be used. Their smoother from the start so don't go for crunchy, just tight.
4. lube the ring and pinion with a good, thick grease. High pressure wheel bearing grease; works fine.
5. check ring and pinion play from time to time. This can be done in vehicle.

Really, the HF's diffs are no better or worse than other brands. Those that say they are, don't know how to build a diff.

Hellfire uses cast metal gears for their diffs, Mugen uses hardened machined steel...so far on the forums there is 1 guy stripping a diff with a Mugen MBX6T..and honestly IMO if you strip a Mugen diff your either doing something wrong or you got a very rare factory defect..... I had a hellfire and I definitely know how to build a diff and I hate to say this here but they are not overly strong, as apparent by the dozens of not hundreds of people who have stripped them....They are the same diff material used in the Savages, which are horrible for chewing diffs... Sure proper building helps, but when your only working with cast metal there is only so much you can expect.....Machined steel is far tougher then cast metal..which is why RRP upgrades are so popular with the MT's.

Matt Ive had no problems with my diffs and I have run it quite a bit. I think its like nitroexpress said, if they werent assembled properly you are going to have problems. I also think a lot of blown diffs happen with upgraded engines. The K4.6HO is a good engine but there are must more potent mills on there. I think with a loose diff and a powerful engine is where most of the problems occur. Driving style has a lot to do with it too. Doing 180's on high traction surfaces will kill your diffs fast.

supertib what is RRP upgrades?

thanks guys. Ya the one im looking at has the K4.6 in it. which looks like a pretty solid engine. and ya, im sure i can shim the gears if it looks like a huge problem. I'll let ya'll know how it turns out!

Ok so I got my HF running last night wow.....I put 3000 in the front diff and 7000 in the rear, chenged thee CB to 15T for the track its rockin..........I put 55W shock oil in it, is it supposed to bottom out off a 3 ft jump? I put thicker sway bars on it to help not sure if it is or not? oh and should I try a diff lock in the rear? Thanks for all the help.......Im now loving my HF, I ordered a Savage XL I'll let you know how that goes tooo.........I'll post pictures of the track later gotta get the size of the pic down............Lovin it in Iraq

Glad you got it running. But no it shouldnt bottom out at only 3 feet. You should try a heavier weight oil in the shocks. Maybe adjust the preload too

HF diffs are definately weak compared to most decent truggies. They will wear out fairly quickly. But shim and ensure bearings are ok and the plastic diff cases are ok and you will increase their life by a long long way.
Remember the chasis is designed to absorb impact, not just the shocks. I use 60 weight over 8ft high jumps (HF aprox 15ft in air) and the chasis hits the ground hard most times with no dramas.

so got my Hellfire SS today. Picked it up this after noon. Got the Savage K4.6 in it. So should hall some pretty serious butt! Nearly brand new too, only a few tanks run with it. I'm pretty stoked to get her up and rippin! Gotta get a roto starter though. Anyone know where I can find one? Cheap?

Matt should be able to pick one up from Ebay cheap, all you really need is the drive shaft anduse a cordless drill. Justcruched my servo, the servo saver locked up on me, anyone have suggestions? I am looking to buy acouple ofMG966servos.........Stussman you are correct I took a 6 foot jump and jumped over my head (I am 6'2") wow really impressed with how this handles on the track. My HF is down again LOL, got a technical question for ya, after running a tank of fuel I filled it back up and started it and I could only give it half throttle and it would bog down and die out, I tried adjusting it but the same thing happened. its almost acting as if at half throttle it wide open. Its not running lean at all, it not too rich eigther. I was running it hard on the track and jumping alot, hence the reason I need a new servo....any suggestions?

Mc are you talking about the MG995? Or did they come out with a newer version?
As for the throttle, if you were jumping that high and hard make sure you check all the connections on the fuel lines and the exhaust. I had knocked my fuel line off one day and didnt notice it. Drove me crazy till I realized what happened. Do you have a throttle return spring on the carb? Check the throttle arm to make sure its not bent at all.
Also check you temps. If the engine was running too hot sometimes you will have a problem when you refuel. The fuel will actually start to vaporize (for lack of a better description) inside the carb if its too hot.
And where are the pictures? I wanna see this desert track.

If comparing spyder gears, then an enlarged pic of the mugen spyder gears (MUGC0230), seems to indicate that they are not machined.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...pider-Gear-10T

Various materials may be used by different manufactgorers, but I haven't seen any spyder gears that appear to be machined. If comparing ring and pinion gears, the Mugen 5T and 6T use spiral cut gears. Hardly a fair comparison. Use the HB spiral gears and things are more even.

BTW, my Fioroni is working great on my JPX.21

heres acouple of pictures I took, was able to borrow someone elses servo. His Jato was taken out. I dont know if they are the upgrades or not from the MG995....I will let you know. I plan on posting more pictures later. Oh and Keith I think heat played a big factor in it dieing out, it was about 121 degrees out, I just didn't think it would effect it like that. Anyways getting my Savage XL sent out in acouple of days, I'll let you all know how that goes.....oh one more question, my rear end is getting really hot (like burn your hand if you touch the skid plate......Im running 3000 in the rear and 7000 up front, any suggestions? is that normal? Remember I've only had this thing for a month and a half and its only been driven about 12 times....

The spider gears are fine on the HF but as said the straight cut pinion/ring arent good quality.

As keithjv said check all the simple things first like fuel lines,tank lid tight etc. Did it start and run ok after it cooled a little? I really liked my k4.6ho when i had it. Had heaps of grunt which suited the heavy HF.

You sure have the RC bug, playing outside in those temps, nuts!
I think after hard running in those temps its normal to be that hot. Run your mill a little rich and not continously in those temps.

Awesome to hear the Fiorini is working for you.... The JPX has alot of bottom for a .21, so if any ..21 can pusha Fiorini a JPX can..... I use a Fiorini in my onroad, but prefer the snappier M2C in my offroads...

As for comparing Mugen to HPI, I was talking Crown and Pinions..Mugen uses a higher grade then HPI does.... We could argue all day, but you will never in a million years convince me a Hellfire has the same quality diffs a Mugen does... I got 45 gallons now on my original diffs on my 5T running all modified engines, no way in a million years will you see that with a HPI product..next time I do a diff service I will snap some pictures of my gears to show the wear on them..... Right now we are doing a head to head between a Mugen MBX6 and a HB D8, 2 local brothers bought one of each and run with use every week, we will be doing a final verdict at the end of the season.... So far the Mugen has broken 1 rear bulkhead, which Mugen replaced with a updated part, the HB has broken 4 so far ( rookie drivers with lots of crashes)..the HB is showing alot more plastic wear then the Muegn is so far...we haven't checked the diffs yet, but at the end of the season we will compare diff wear.... I like the HB, but I definitely am not seeing it having the same quality as the Mugen...both machines handle great and perform awesome, the HB is breaking a little more and wearing a little faster.... But breakage can just be luck of the draw, however how the plastic, diffs and outdrives wear will tell the full story, but that kind of wear takes gallons to see..on initial driving you wouldn't tell the difference between the two..... Next time out I will check the outdrives and see which ones are slotting more.....based off my years running all the different brands nothing wears as good as the Mugens do..... So I wouldn't be saying the HB is as good as the Mugen just yet, as so far in a head to head the Mugen is holding up better showing less wear and less breakage... Both brothers are my customers, so there is no bias going on whatsoever, both machines compete head to head with each other very well, and IMO the only advantage I see with the Mugen is its a little tougher...performance for the dollar the D8 is fantastic ! I hope this doesn't offend anyone...

what kind of battery pack do you guys use for the reviever in your car. I got the HPI am reciever for now. I'll get a better one later on. But i'm looking for a better quality battery. any suggestiions?