Are the tanks remote control too?
That track looks pretty cool. You definitely need to post more pictures and a video if you can.
With outside temps at 121 I can only imagine what the engine temps must have been.
The heat from the engine is going to be radiated to the chassis so its normal for it to be hot. If the diff cases are extremely hot then you shuold open them up to make sure there isnt a problem.

Im still using the stock battery pack with no problems.
What do you mean better quality? You looking for a higher capacity?
Ipicked up a couple of packs ebay from onlybatterypacks.com for a great price.
Do a search Im sure someone has something listed for a decent price.

Ok so here are some pictures of the track we have built, its suprising what you can do when you get alot ofSoldiers who have nothing better to do with their time off.......My HF is tearin it up, the New revo is giving it a run forts money but off the line the revo cant hang LOL. I tried uploading acouple of shortvideos but they weretoo large so im trying todown size them. Still having problemswith the heat (but that willhappen) I checked all the simple things, Ithink its too running rich, I tuned it to where the smoke isn't as blue and I adjusted the mid range on it alittle, it helped. How ever when Im giving it throttle(about half)it bogs for a second then takes off like a raped ape......but its not running lean. One other problemthats got me concernedis theservo saver, it keeps locking up on me and wont give? should I leave italittle sloppy? I knowStussman said tighten it up but I think thats howI blew the stock one.....the one I borrowed stripped out one side of the gears so I had to improvise and rig it so it would work...any suggestions?




Go Bigor Go Home
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Mc that track looks great. Definitely need bigger pictures though. As far as the video goes, upload it to youtube and then post a link to it.
How is the servo saver locking up? Is there sand in it? If you disconnect the tie rod to the steering servo do the wheels move smoothly left and right?
What kind of fuel are you using? Is it stored in a cool place? I was out today and it didnt run that great. I think the humidity was having a serious effect. Plus my fuel didnt look like it normally does. Im not sure if it picked up some moisture or not. Im going to get a fresh gallon tomorrow and go from there. If you have access to other fuel you might want to try that too.

Keith the steering is fine its the pivote point on the servo saver,  Its like the spring isn't compressing or its too stiff, Do I need to put oil or a lube on it? if I do that it will get all covered with sand and stick even more....I am using Traxx 20% Nitro, its kept in a office with AC.  I gotta wait until next weekend before I can pull it out again,  I'll let you know if I find anything else out......So I take it humidity isn't good?  Cant wait to see how it does in Texas</p>

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Nitro fuel naturally attracts moisture, so if its really humid and the fuel isnt sealed tight its not good.
How tight do you have the servo saver now? Mine is just a little off the chassis. You want it tight enough that it doesnt start to give when you are steering, but not so tight that its not going to work if the front wheels take a hit.
Maybe try some graphite dry lube?

one more question for you guys (ima noob when it comes to this haha). what break in method do you guys use? the HPI one, or some other ones? i know the 'new school' method. do some work better than others?

A good starting point for the servo saver spring is 6 to 7mm up from the chasis. I have it even tighter. The spring is fairly weak so you need it tight or your turning problems will be worse. Using the back hole on the steering plate helps to. Also a little toe out and camber in.
The stock servos will break fairly quickly. This is usual. Get yourself good quality servos or a few cheapies so you have backup.
I use a flat pack 1600 mah for receiver. I have also used hump packs ok. I think the stock is 1200?
For breakin in i used the heat cycle method which seems to be the most popular and tested method.

+1 on the heat cycle method. I think its the easiest and the fastest.

tow out front wheels on a hellfire makes turning worse- it has way more ackerman than other trucks so by doing that you make it worse

I made a new ackerman plate by hand and run my fronts dead straight for a tight turning trug-

Any pictures of what you made?

I disagree because mine did improve turning when i did it, but that doesnt mean iam 100% correct. I have read the xray steering plate is a good steering upgrade??

Unfornately when i ran mine today the rear bearing gave out in my os28 scratching the piston and pitting the button[]. I have spare pistons, cranks,sleeves etc but no button! Ill get one off ebay. Ive got another spare parts to make 2 os28s but now i need 2 new buttons.

I am in the proscess of trading my Savage for a Hellfire. both are rollers as I am keeping my LRP .28 to use in the hellfire. I'm sure someone on here has used this engine in their HF. how does it perform in the truggy? do I need to do any upgrades to handle the power? it was an awesome engine in the savage and I imagine it will be great in the HF. I will probably need to replace the front diff since the guy that has it now thinks it is getting worn out. what is a good replacement diff to use? and what weight oils do you all suggest I use for the diffs? I will be just bashing with it so I would guess that the heavier the oil the better? I have had several nitros over the years but this is my first truggy. is there anything I should know?
Thanks

I had the lrp28 in my HF before upgraded to os28. The lrp is great for bashing. I used a 14tCB and stock spur. It had excellent bottom and mid range and a good top end. Great mill for bashing in a truggy.
Some people are using the stock diffs (shim both pinion and ring nice and snug) with good results (i had bad results).The best upgrade diffs are the hot bodies spiral diffs(lightning etc) and the CEN GST diffs. I recommend the GST diffs (i use). They have extra large teeth and are strong (you still must shim!). The pinion/crown fit straight into the hellfire cups with shimming. They change the gearing ratio so you have to drop your clutchbell size. Iam using a 12T CB. I tried 14T and it had crazy as top speed (os28). The 12T gives a good bottom/top.
Since your just bashing i say aprox 7/20/5 oils. Iam using 7/100/7 at the moment. The high centre oil gives the truggy more all wheel drive but is bad for turning. Racing 5/7/3 or similar.
A truggy is way better for bashing than an MT,IMO. They jump better, turn better and can handle higher power engines.

Thanks for the info... did you have any trouble with the pullstart on the LRP being too big? or was yours a bump start?

Now i remember, thats right. The bottom of the pullstart plate is slightly too big. Mine just fitted but i couldnt move the engine across to use a larger clutch bell because the screw/edge was in the way (if i remember correctly). I know others have shimmed the engine up slightly with washers or used some alloy or similar, or ground the bottom edge off.

I just went and checked as i still have the lrp parts. The only reason the screw hit was because i had extra long engine plate screws coming up thru the plate and the right side pullstart screw just hit that. If i had used a normal length plate screw all would have been ok.

i will post some photos of my plate- it just has wider attatchment points but you can see how the wheels are turning with less ackerman. If you watch the truck turning closely on a high traction surface you can see the front lift when you yank throttle- this is not going way ever because of the motor placement- however i have reduced this a lot by putting 70wt losi shock oil in rear with white springs, then cut yellow springs shorter and install on front. with the ride height lowered in the front and slightly raised in rear the truck is leveling more under power. The only thing i want to try is putting a torsen front diff in to see if that outside wheel will grab more when i punch it on tight turns

LRP sells a back plate thats compatible with the HPI roto start and the F4.6 pull start. The back plate is smaller then the LRP standard one so it fits perfectly in the HF. Im using one on my LRP thats in my ST-1.
The LRP has great power for the truggies. You just have to choose a CB that suits your driving style.

Yeah I bought the lrp backplate as I was going to convert it to a rotostart because the pinch was so tight for the break-in and I was breaking my pullstart. but the engine is still a pullstart and the back plate is still in its package. I guess I will have to see what I will need to do to make it fit with the pullstart and if its too tight to fit with the pullstart I'll do the conversion to rotostart

The only way to make it fit with the pull start is to shim the engine up. The downside of that is you cant use a starter box if you want to. If you put the back plate on you can use the HPI pull start which is smaller and it will still work with the starter box as well. That way you have the option.
If you are having trouble getting it to turn over with the pull start you can loosen the glow plug a little to reduce the pressure. As soon as it starts tighten it back up.

I didn't even think to try putting an hpi pullstart on it. I just happen to have an old one in the garage. I preffere pull starts to any thing else. I like to be able feel it if the engine floods. I was only having trouble with the pinch for the first few tanks now I can pull it over without too much trouble.

 got the hellfire broken in today. now on to tuning. any tips or hints? I gather that there should be a small stream of smoke coming out at full throttle. but I dont want to run too lean. more towards the rich side. what should that look like smoke wise? a bit of smoke coming out a full?

You want a good trail of smoke when you are on the gas. It shouldnt bog or cut out when you go WOT from a stop. Make small adjustments when you are tuning.

so looks like my roto starter went on my. thats what i get for using a drill. took it off and it looks like my one way bearing is still good. its only freely spinning one way. which is always a good sign. So tomrrow im gunna head to my local hobbie store and get myself a pull start. should be much better than a drill. I knew this would happen sooner or later. <u>so my question is</u>, I should jsut be able to replace the roto start plate with a pull start correct? should jsut bolt right on? thats what i beleive to be true, but i dont wanna screw it up anymore.

What do you mean the roto start went? DId the gears break?
The pull start just screws on in place of the roto start plate. Just make sure you get the correct pull start for your engine and that its going to fit the engine when its installed in the truck.