crshtst1

"installed my OS 21 VSpec with the Jp3 pipe..........."

I am running the stuff that came in the box, the stock clutchbell will get you from a to b. I have maybe about 1mm of clearance between the graphite upper deck and the servo saver's collar. I also disengaged my front brakes and removed both swaybars. Remember to put some threadlock onto the servo saver's collar.

thopper

mbx5t NIB $369.00 Highpowerhobby.com

JSRacer

That's a great deal. I thought I got a good deal at $389!

JSRacer

I just put a JR Z9000T in my X5T for steering and WOW! Very big difference from that JR 650! LOL I knew it would be. Duh! I'm still surprised though how big of a difference it really is.

crshtst1

The prospec is $570, you don't have to upgrade anything and it includes noice machined aluminum and carbon fibre components. I agree Losifan, I've had the same servo now for a week or two and the z9000t servo's 320 ounces of torque handle the grippy fat tires.

Baja5BLST

320 oz/in of torque does make a difference. It's really cool when your truggy is sitting on the ground, and you can turn the wheels left and right on asphalt, fast. Makes a huge difference on the track.

RcRacer37E

320 oz servo and I can turn left/right while its sitting on my carpet floor.
I run the shorter wheel hubs, the narrow ones wont work with the stock wheels, they hit, but will work with with proline dish style tires. I have 2 sets of the wheel adapters, one is the 0mm and then the 6 mm. Dace from a main.
Anyone running vented clutch bells? Im looking for any that will work. Its getting way to warm in the bell and cooking bearing, ceramic ones and they are adding up fast. Im also afraid its going to fry the outter bearing on my engine.

JSRacer

Ever try the Fioroni clutch? I'll be switching to that when my shoes are toast. I have one in my Muggy and it's lasted 2 gallons so far and I think it'll be awhile before I have to replace those shoes. I run a vented clutchbell in my Muggy due to the clutch problems that the Muggy is notorious for.

How wide of an offset is too wide for the X5T? I have the stock hubs and I just put Losi's XTT 8T's preglued tires on it and those are half offset which makes the X5T almost a square. I haven't tried it on the track yet but I can't see how it would hurt the steering. It turns on a dime (with that new JR 9000T)

RcRacer37E

Heres a pic of the stock hubs vs the dace 0mm hubs. Im running the 3mm off set hubs now, the ones in the pic are so short they hit the a arms when you hit full lock to lock. It turns on a dime and gives change back. I'll hook up a link for the hubs Im running from a main.
On the bell, Im thinking the hpi bells will work, I found a old one from my rush evo from years ago and the pitch seems to be the same. I want the other bell and clutch set up you were talking about, a main was out of stock last time I checked. I'll have them by the second round of the rc pro series in Joliet though.

EG1

+1

Its by far my favorite clutch setup and I've tried alot of different setups.

RcRacer37E

I found out that Ofna bells work and was told any bell for a .21 has the same pitch so they all should work. I did run the ofna 13 bell and it made a big diffrence. I could hardly tell I had run the shoes once the race day was done. Much better than replacen shoes every weekend, I might even try aluminum shoes again.

crshtst1

If you need more steering go with the zero toe block that comes in the kit for the front and then use the spacers to shove the a arms and upper a arms as far forward is possible... I don't need to switch to the shorter hubs and can retain the trucks width for outdoor racing too. I actually busted a shocktower wich I though was impossible but happened when I lobbed her at a pole on a double before the rhythms section. Ebay has many very cheap though. The internet is sweet for resourcing. I have the skinniest spacers in front then all the other spacers I can fit on the back of the captured pins My truck turns almost as good as my electric brushless buggy.

crshtst1

BTW do not use racing diff setups like scott hughes... I had his 7, 10, 2 setup in my truck for one weekend and watched it turn my clutch into a mushroom headed festival. I now run 5000 in front, a custom mix of 3500 in the center and 2000 in back. Less wear but a sacrifice to the monster torque I had. Those setups are to give the racers the best advantage for about 3 hrs of run time then a rebuild is due. Be wary

RcRacer37E

Never had that issue before. I got the stock aluminum shoes pretty darn hot one night though. I went to a 13 vented bell and havent had any issues with melting shoes or mushrooming. The stock bell that comes with the kit needs tossed and a vented bell needs to be used.
I like the 7/10/2 set up my self.

crshtst1

Maybe a vented clutchbell would help, never tried... I am sick of redoing the diffs though and am happy with it now.

RcRacer37E

Double up the diff gaskets and use longer screws to hold them in place. Im usen a ofna 13 vented bell. As long as the bells are for a big block, it should work on the truggy, or so I was told. Still check the pitch to make sure it meshes up right.

crshtst1

I've heard about the diff gasket and screw mod but I have gotten the diff tightening down to a science... you cant have any grime or crud when sealing the diffs. Apreciate it though, I ran the longer screw mod in the center but that's it. The only problem I had was with the shims in the rear diff. At first I ran none and almost had my bevel gear eat through the rear diff. If I have any more issues with the gaskets I bought some gasket maker that is oil safe.

crshtst1

Some advice: I love my mugen truggy to death. I just like my electric brushless buggy more. I suggest if there's anyone here who loves racing to death to get an electric. I drive my buggy at least 4x as much as my truggy. With brushless technology you have a maintenance free powertrain. When you break parts it is cheap as dirt. Overall just way less maintenance. Parts swapping is even a breeze. I love my electric it keeps me on the track when the other nitro guys are yanking their models off the track for maintenance or tweaking. I have a novak system and a 7.5r motor. When I put my 4200 mah pack into my buggy it is a little faster than my EB modded os .21 powerplant in my mugen. But the instantanious power enables me to clear doubles with about one foot of runway. ELECTRIC is making a comeback in a huge way thanks to technology, it is the fencing of RC racing while nitro is the nascar redneck truckdriver series. Besides, the gadgets for electric is alot cooler, the charger, discharger and blinking lights galore.

RcRacer37E

Glad you like electric, run the hell out of it and have fun. But this is what Im talking about.

Oh yes, the OS .28xz truggy engine. I think he called me a redneck.....lmao

crshtst1

Check dis out... O.S. .21 V-spec EB modified. 3.1 hp output, ceramic bearings, aftermarket sleeve, piston, conrod and crankshaft with a dash of fine balancing and blueprinting. Z9000t JR servo, spektrum sr3001 pro with cap and a Jammin JP-3 pipe I chose the .21 V-spec instead of a big block because of their famed fuel economy, got her modded to make up for the lack of power, I just make one pit during my a mains. I overshoot the quad jumps with this beast. I guess we are all a little redneck at heart... I used to own a trailer I tell ya.

RcRacer37E

Im running the jp3 also, but was told that the [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPGU5&P=SM]OS tune pipe[/link] works even better for this engine. I was also told that the .28 gets the same run times as the .21 engine. I'll see this weekend, off to the pro series race in Joliet. I'll report more on monday.

daytimeninja

Hey, guys. I was looking into purchasing a MBX5T, and have decided on purchasing a ninja engine. I am still debating on .21 or .28. Which size has the advantage? thanks

revo7617

Guys.. just for sharing some info...

I broke 2 hitec and futaba metal gear servos in my MBX5T (sandard version). I thought the servos where weak, but in 3 years I never broke anything till now. Some guys from el paso, tx (where they run a lot of MBX5T's) had the same problem....

The thing was that the servo saver when its open or "in action" let the dirt get in, so after some hours of use, the dirt start binding and after that the servo saver stop working (feels hard like the aluminium post is glued to the plastic part), making the hard crashes pass directly to the servo.

So, that was the solution to the problem, maintenance after 10 tanks to prevent that problem.
Hope will help some guys with the same servo problem...

crshtst1

We have had guys in my club who were going through the expensive airtronics servos(the one with the aluminum on the outer body,) like candy. I had everyone point me in the direction of the JR z9000t for reliability and power. It has 320 oz of torque, the next step up is a 40 dollar increase for 20 more oz inches of torque.... We have probably ten mugen truggys in my club and I have never heard of what your talking about with the servo saver. Try dissasembling the entire front end for binding primarily in the servo saver area. Any threadlock, mud, or adhesive could bind the saver to the inner rod that the assembly swivels on. Maybe the saver is too tight or you where running the truck on muddy goo.

crshtst1

Daytimeninja I hear the ninja line is great I hear also though that the .28 has a lower fuel economy but more power and torque. I had researched engines before buying my v-spec and found that the internal bearings in O.S. and Ninja engines tend to fail when run hard. This is a serious issue. That is why I bought the EB modded V-spec. For a mere 100 bucks more than a stock v-spec you get a thoroughbread with ceramics to adress the issue I was talking about earlier. You get ceramics plus everything done that I mentioned five posts earlier truly an awesome deal. It's soooo much more bang for the buck. BTW don't skimp by buying the cheaper kit. You get around 19 upgrades with the prospec that you don't with the regular truggy. It was around a 400+ dollar difference. you will also need a super torque servo like mentioned earlier. The good news is that these truggys are super durable and hardly break, that is, unless I'm lobbing one around a track and meet mr. pole.... I am the first mugen owner in my club to snap a shock tower. Hope that helps.