windowlicker

Its ok everyone I think I finally have it cracked! I'll post a vid of it now, will link to it when it is ready. Basically, I tried an O.S. #8 (hot) and I managed to get a good steady idle!!!!

I can richen it right up, I think I found my maximum richness setting, and the #8 keeps it all running fine! So, after countless attempts, but only half a tank into the break in, I have just performed the first solid 4 minute idle, the temps were about 235, and I managed to keep them there by taking the foil off and keeping it as rich as possible. Its about 1.5 turns out from flush on the LSN and about 2.5 turns out on the HSN.

Thank god I can finally break in the engine properly! I just hope all the stopping and starting has not caused too much wear!

windowlicker

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOREMRH8DWI

Here's the video as promised

J24gordon

Looks like you finally got a handle on that beast. I just broke in a new jpx .28 myself , Good job

*FULL-REVS*

im sorry i only just found your thread dude.... OS#8 and A5 are the only std plugs the GO motors like.... that info would of been helpfull a page ago i know.... but atleast your on your way now after break in you need to pull your motor down and go through the sealing process... GO motors will not tollerate any leak of any size... as soon as it develops a leak your temps will spike and you'll get a lean bog to go with it... also very worth while on going to the turbo button and OS P3 plugs and slapping a GO 2047 pipe on the side of it ummmm.... make sure your head is shimmed right for the fuel your running and that its torqued down tight when you put it back together.... good luck

droidswarm

I did exactly the same!

Still breaking my GO .25 in - having problems cos the clutch doesnt want to engage! Examined it and it looks fine, brakes not binding, pretty confused what else it could be.

Also the car stalls when i give it a about 30% throttle, do I need to adjust the HSN or LSN to solve this?

Ta

windowlicker

Well Mine started to stall once I tried to drive it around on the second tank. I think it was down to being WAAAY too rich, it was fine at idle, but as soon as I accelerated, it flooded the engine. You might have to play around with both needles. I had my LSN about 1-1.5 turns out from flush, and the HSN about 1-2 turns out from flush.

What are you needle settings like at the moment? As long as you start to lean it out slowly, keeping an eye on the smoke levels and sound of the engine, and keeping an eye on the temps you should be ok.

I did the heat cycle method for the first tank (preheated, idling for 3-4 mins, temps 200-250) the second tank was 25% throttle bursts on the ground, and third tank was 50% throttle bursts on the ground starting to lean out a bit. I noticed towards the end of the second tank the temps started to drop by about 30F (which I guess is the engine bedding in and the friction dropping) so I had to lean it a little to get the temps up a bit. Still very smoky and a little sluggish, but a lot better sounding than it was at first.

Can you post a video or something so we can see what its running like?

droidswarm

I will post a vid, but it will be Sunday before I will get a chance.

I went with the stock settings from my manual to start run in (attachment), though I think ive had to lean the HSN about a quarter to half a turn to get it running. Ive had two tanks through it on the blocks at idle (as per the manual) but when I have it on the ground and try to accelerate it stalls before it can get going, the revs do go up a bit and the the flywheel is spinning nicely but the clutch doesnt engage.

For the two tanks on the blocks the temps were only 120-130 with not too much smoke but plenty of oil coming out the exhaust.

I did try to get it going without pre-heating the head - Not a chance!! Its tighter than a nuns ch**f!

Logi3

LSN should be flush, it shouldnt be outside otherwise it will be way to rich and you will have the problem your having which is any throttle and engines cuts out due to a load of fuel going in!

Most of the time people will lean out the HSN when this happens and turn the idle up and then you end up in all sorts because all the needles are all over.

If your having trouble moving the car, lean out the LSN by 1/4. Mine will still cut out if i have the car at idle for more then 5~6 seconds and jam the throttle to 50%, ease the throttle up and let the revs build, this will clear the excess out and not overload causing the car to cut out.

windowlicker

120 degrees C or F?if F then that is way too cold.you need to keep the temps above 200F during break in.hopefully you mean C,cos surely it wouldnt start at temps that low!

Yeah like logi3 said,try to keep the needles even.dont have one out from flush with the other one in

Tree1

You should break-in your engines with the fuel you are going to use.

droidswarm

Here you go - video of it running earlier today:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TEU_mkePMcY

HSN is a little out from flush, LSN is flush. It didnt stall today when I gave it a bit of throttle, not sure why but it was A LOT hotter than last time I ran it. Clutch still not engaging, really annoying me now .

Video quality is pretty bad - sorry about that.

Tree1

Go Tech engines tune differently then most other engines. Some recommend the break-in needle settings be HSN flush LSN 1-1.5 in from flush. Now that you have it ideling, start to lean out the LSN needle first. Make sure to keep the engine temps above 200 degrees F. (220-260 is ideal). once you get decent performance punch (bottom) then you can lean the HSN a couple of hours to get decent performance (top). Do not race tune the engine until it has at least 1.5 gallons through it. Keep the engine on the rich side of a race tune. Once the pinch has gone the temps will drop and then you can race tune.

*FULL-REVS*

^^^^^ yip... what Tree said.... its so so important to have the temps up at around 220F as you are trying to get two metals to mate together.... and around 220 is where it will be at race tune so thats what you have to get them used too... wrap the head in tin foil to get the temp up....

droidswarm

Seriously? Lean the LSN first? I thought you always started with the HSN?

Not going to be doing any tuning till I can sort out why the clutch isnt working!! I cant figure it out!! The flywheel spins nicely but the clutch bell doesnt move, brakes not binding, clutch shoes installed correctly and not worn. Any ideas what else it could be?? [sm=48_48.gif][sm=72_72.gif][sm=angry.gif][sm=confused.gif][sm=angry_smile.gif][sm=cry_smile.gif][sm=disappointed.gif]

windowlicker

sounds like you need to put the right amount of washers between the screw and the outer bearing,and between the locking nut and the inner bearing.the clutch bell should spin freely when the flywheel is fixed

madmax22

also i dont think any one mentioned this, you can leave the igniter in the engine for the first couple tanks. I'd go back to default settings and go from there again.

Tree1

Put the needles where I stated. HSN about flush and the LSN 1-1.5 in from flush. With the HSN needle at flush you are about where it will need to be once it is fully broken in. You may lean the HSN a couple of hours if you want a bit more top. With these Go Tech engines it is recommend to lean the LSN first. Once you have decent punch then you lean the HSN but if is set at flush you probably won't go more the a few hours leaner than flush until the pinch is gone. After the HSN and LSN are set check your idel gap. Set it between 0.7 mm to 1.0mm. Hope this helps and good luck with your Go Tech mill.

windowlicker

i can kind of see what youre saying,but as you lean the hsn,you are automatically leaning the lsn needle too.so say you perfect your lsn first,then start leaning your hsn,you will be leaning your lsn too,resulting in an overly lean lsn setting.

Id suggest you put your lsn so its flush or just outside of flush so its nice and rich.then tune your hsn by doing some wot runs.then id always recomend the pinch test to check your lsn setting,after the engine is up to temp,pull it in,wait 10 seconds and pinch the fuel line.you want the rpm to raise slightly before the engine dies.if it does not raise,its too lean.if it takes a while to cut out or revs up quite a bit,then its too rich

Tree1

I have broken in and tuned 3 Go Tech engines. What I have learned, I got from people on another forum who modify and sell these Go Tech engines. I too had problems tuning these engines. But after reading the thread on another forum I followed the advice that they stated and put the HSN Flush ( You should be in the ballpark with the HSN flush) and I set the LSN 1 turn in from flush.

After my engine was broken-in, I started to lean the LSN. Once I got the punch I was happy with from a stand still, I tuned for top end. I didn't need to lean the HSN much, I think it was about two hours and I was very happy with the top end. I did several WOT passes and brought my rig in and it temped at 220-240. Not bad for an engine that still has tons of pinch and the break-in shim is still installed.

Once I have 1.5 gallons through that mill I will remove the break-in shim and the engine will really come alive. I have a gallon and a half through my 5 port turbo. I was pleased with the performance but once I removed the break-in shim...Wow!!! I really saw and felt the difference. I can't wait for that pinch to go away a little more and get the fuel economy that I have heard these engines provide.

I know that these engines can be frustrating but you have to be pacient. Use the Heat Cycle method for break-in. Always return piston to BDC after use. Set the needles like I mentioned above and set the idel gap to 0.7 to 1.0mm and you should be good to go. Good luck.

windowlicker

do you know how close one engine can be to another with the same needle settings?im not with my car now but from memory the hsn is about 1-2 in from flush and the lsn is flush.i raced the car on sunday (still not fully broken in,but very rich)the hsn could be leaned quite a bit but the lsn may have to be richened up a little if i do cos i think its near its limit of lean already.

Im going to wait till about a gallon until i start to fine tune it,i found it had plenty of power running rich.do i take the single shim out soon?

Tree1

I know that engines will tune differently even of they are from the same manufacturer. But the settings that I have mentioned worked for me.

I have read on another forum where some Go Tech engine owners have there LSN 3 to 4 turns in from flush with the HSN about a half a turn in from flush. I am suspecting that this is for a full race tune.

If your engine is running fine with your current needle settings then keep it where it is. Tune by performance and smoke and not temp. I mainly use my temp gun during the break-in process.

They say you will see a dramatic drop in temperature and that is when you should remove the extra shim. I removed the break-in shim from my 5 port turbo .21 after I had a little over a gallon through it. I noticed that I had trouble keeping the temps above 220 degrees F. I tried leaning out the needles but then my engine was too lean and would bog. I put the needle close to where I originally had them and removed the break-in shim. Everything was great after removing the shim. I even leaned the LSN almost 1 full turn and the HSN almost half a turn. I am running between 230 and 250 degrees and I am happy with the performance.

I have seen and heard of people who are race tuning their Go Tech engines and they are running them at around 260 to 270 degrees F so I am ok with where I am currently at with my mill.

droidswarm

Tree1 + Windowlicker - Thanks for the good advice (and grown-up flame-free discussion) - I will definatley take your advice onboard once I have solved the goddam clutch!

Tree1 - Did you install the extra "break-in" shim or does it come already installed?

windowlicker

i saw a drop in temperatures on the second tank,from about 240 to 210,so i leaned it a little,still very rich though.after my race on sunday,it was running about 250,so i richened it again.i hope it will drop again like you say.it still is very tight and will not turn over by hand when cold (havnt tried when hot,too hot to touch!)

I didnt get a manual in the box with my engine (second hand but never used) so thanks for letting me know about that shim.are you sure it applies to my engine to as well as the .21s?

INTEGRA

RPM isnt gonna hurt a new motor...u Can rev the damn thing to keep it running....i see guys doing it ALL the time...trying to start at Idle... or start with Zero throttle input....by the end of the first tank on the break in bench on all my modded race mills........im doin Full pulls up and down the rpm range....some guys treat their motor's WAY to delicatly imo.

madmax22

lol +1 he was annoying the 'shiznit' out of me with that! you could also put it on the ground and give it little taps of the throttle just to keep it going.....