Tree1

No problem, just rying to help. I know that these Go Tech engines can be a real pain in the rear initially but once you get them going, I am sure you will be happy with them.

To be perfectly honest, I am not sure if the .25 engines come with the extra break-in shim. I know that Go Tech engines come shimmed for 30% nitro out of the box.

You will definately see a drop in temp. My engine use to temp between 230-260 degrees but after a little over a gallon, I had so much trouble trying to keep my engine abouve 200 degrees F. I would lean out the HSN then make a WOT pass and it would temp at 170-180 degrees F. I would lean it out some more and it would bog. I then richened the HSN a couple of ours so that it wouldn't bog then I started to lean the LSN. Still I barely hit 190-200 degrees. That is when I removed the break-in shimm and retuned slighly. Now the engine is awesome. I am still running on the rich side of a race tune but I am happy with the performance and and I'm temping between 210-230.

Like I stated above I am not sure if the .25 mills come with the break-in shim. The purpose of the extra shim is to reduce compression to make it easier to turn the engine over during the break-in procedure. I know they came with my .21s and I assumed they came with all the Go Tech mills since they are all super tight.

windowlicker

My .25 came with one shim. How many did yours come with? And how do you know which is the break in shim?

Chedzter

My 5port came with one in the box and three shims installed. I installed the extra break in shim and will remove around a gallon or so. You guys have any problems with your carb being loose? I shaved the pinch bolt down but it did not help?

Tree1

Both of my 21s came with one copper shim and one aluminum shim. There was an extra shim in a package that came in the box for both of my 21 Go Tech engines.

Chedzter

My carb moves slightly but I use high speed/torque servos from Hitec. I also sealed my engines and my mills are holding their tune well. The carb seems to move slightly when I apply my brakes. Try adjusting your brake/throttle end points.

INTEGRA

the carb should NEVER move...even slightly.....and if so you are using WAY too much travel on the brake side...Or u have an Overly Stiff throttle spring....i dunno but none of the GO carbs ive worked on had any wiggle to them.

Tree1

My carbs move so little maybe 1mm. I have tried to adjust my brake end points but I didn't feel like it was enough to stop by buggy and truggy. I will try to re-adjust and see how well my rigs stop and also see if I don't have any movement of the carb.

Chedzter

I can wiggle my carb by hand which I know is not good. The carb on my SW .26 wont budge when tightened down. I emailed racefactor so we will see. I guess Im being picky but a loose carb could easily suck air causing tuning issues.

INTEGRA

a loose care can cause Nightmarish tuning issues....one's that haunt u in your sleep.

rageworks

If any of you want to learn any thing about any of the GO motors, tuneing,
the loose carb fix, proper break-in, then please log on to RC Tech.com.
There is a thread of over a hundred pages on just GO motors. The thread
is in the "Off Road" threads. Do yourselves a favor and check it out, before
you ruin your new motors. I own four modded GO motors and some of the
things that you guys are doing are not good for your new motors. Brian
Carey of Pro Twister Mods also has a thread on there and he is a great GO
engine modder and would be more than happy to help you out.

Tree1

Fixed the the carb from wiggling. I used blue locktite and tightened the screw for the carb pinch bolt. I also adjusted my end points a little better and the wiggle is gone. I rolled the buggy on the ground and applied the brakes and she stopped. Now the real test is to see how she stops after WOT.

Rageworks is correct. There is a ton of information on the RCTech thread. Check it out

windowlicker

www.rc-tech.com? Its down at the moment but i will check it out

Logi3

hmmm, regarding the shims i never had an extra shim in my box, i've not taken the head off yet to see how many are installed as im still a little short of the Gallon mark. I run 20% always, i should have 2 shims or one?

*FULL-REVS*

one shim for 20%... well thats on the 5&7 port .21's.... i think the site is www.rctech.net not .com

Logi3

Thanks F-R, will prob leave it for another half a gallon then have a look how many is there and leave one if there is 2 or 3.

Chedzter

On the new Gos there is a thick alum shim and two .1mm brass shims. In the box there is also a .2mm shim for break in. Install it for breakin then take out at around a gallon or so as soon as the pinch is gone.

droidswarm

Finally got the ST moving under its own steam!! After taking the clutch apart and finding nothing wrong, I reset the needles as shown in Chedzters post and it worked fine - I had the engine so fat before the revs just werent getting high enough to engage the clutch!

Anyhow, for the first tank I had it off the ground, running at idle, with tinfoil round the the head and was getting 210-215deg. I tried dabbing the throttle and slightly leaning the HSN (maybe 3-4 hours) to get the temps up, but couldnt get past 220. For the second tank I was running round (speed as low as possible), and the temps were at 280, so I removed the tinfoil and they dropped to 260, but even when I returned the HSN to the flush position the temps didnt drop any more. Thats where i finished for the day.

Have I screwed it up by having the temps too cold/hot? How are you supposed to control the temps when adjusting the HSN didnt seem to make an impact?

windowlicker

Adjust the LSN. I found that adjusting the HSN during break in did nearly nothing. Because during break in the engine is only revving around its low end, the LSN is the most effective needle. Its only during high RPM that the HSN will take effect. Try richening the LSN a little. As long as you didn't drive it too long with those temps, you should be ok I think. Anyway, its done now!

droidswarm

That makes sense! Ill give it a go!

Cheers

herb99

Those temps are normal during break in, 260 -280 is fine.
Go engines like to be really hot during break in, as long as you have good smoke the engine is getting lubricated.
The high temps help to mate the piston to the sleve.
Once the metal pinch goes (after 4 - 5 litres) the temps will drop.

El Tigre

I need some help. I'm trying to break in my GO .25 6 Port. I can't get the gas to the carb without taking the pressure tube off the header and blowing the fuel into the carb. When I'm trying to start it and squeeze the throttle the gas actually pushes out of the carb. I've sealed the backplate and the bottom of the carb with sealant. I got the black two needle carb. When I do get it started and can rev it, as soon as I remove the glow plug igniter it cuts off. I heat the head with a blow dryer and wrap the head with foil to get the temps up.

HALP!!