I'm planning a finish for my Ziroli P38. Covering will be Aerofoil so an all metal finish. Would like invasion stripes. Would like one that actually flew in a war because I like a weathered bird. Would also like some nose art, something thats not been done to death. Was looking at Joltn Jose but can't fine much info on the plane.

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Still goes down as one of my all time fav's

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9589761

Happy Jacks Go Buggy looks interesting. Anyone have pic's of it?

The nose-art portion:
[link=http://www.flickr.com/photos/18532986@N07/3583505579/]Nose_art_Picture[/link]

Not so sure it had invasion stripes though:

[link=http://p38assn.org/aces/jack-ilfrey.htm]P-38_association[/link]

Scot

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Not very stripy here:

[link=http://www.historicaviation.com/product_info.po;jsessionid=-5qNoWdFt5SGWuQpcXJDlgn_?ID=13715]Die_cast_P38[/link]

If you do the restored version, you can't hide all of the mistakes under the weathering.... That could be a problem?

Do you have two P-38?

No luck with the sale so I will finish her, no problem. Was looking into a radial.

G-Pete show me how you used your cylinders for the gear doors. You stated on another post that you used only five cylinders.

Give me until tomorrow and I post some pictures here to explain (they are on my PC at home...)

As for the finish - how about Mama's Boy 328301

Cool thanks, mamas boy looks good, will have to try to find some history.

Well fitting name also!!

Well I knew it was only a matter of time.

Here the pictures of the main landing gear doors and actuating cylinders. This shows pretty much what you need to know.

So you used two in each boom and one for the nose. This was allowed the doors to close evenly? I figured since the length of the doors that the far side wouldn't be a tight fit.

Where did you get the metal mounting brackets?

Yeah, they close tight and evenly - don'tcha worry.

The brackets came with the cylinders from Darrel at Sierra Giant.

I glued the bottom of the cylinders with the cylinder rod fully extended and the doors perpendicular to the wing. The collars controls how much the door closes, not too less and not too much...

If you use the brackets, but on one side of the pin medium CA and kick it - these little buggers move after awhile

Just a thought here; Pete, I know you are past this step, but instead of using wheel collars on the cylinder shafts to limit travel, I'd work lengths of brass tubing that fit over the shaft to the correct length such that they are squeezed between the bottom side of the clevis and the end of the cylinder because to limit stroke. I know that as soon as I had to change the actuation length on the cylinder I'd end up with a dent on the shaft from the wheel collar setscrew right in line with the O-ring and the system would leak until empty... And even if the dent didn't end up on the o-ring, it would have a slight burr on the edge of it so it cut the o-ring on a stroke and make the cylinder useless. So now that it has been thought of, it will happen...

I agree with some of your points about the scaring the shaft when you are not careful.
Would you use a washer to avoid the brass tube drives into the plastic?

That makes sense. I think the washer is the right finishing touch. I'd probably spend extra time and solder it to the end of the tube even. There seems sufficiently over engineered now.... It is a bad habit of mine.