BobH

My Feedback: (2)

If you want to get rid of that hood latch (for appearence sake) you can do what I did and use the guns as part of the latch mechanism.

I'll post a picture if you like.

dvs1

Bob, If you would post a pic of that it would be great. I am thinking of doing that just so I dont have the dimple sticking from my gun hood.



On another note. The gear doors take much longer than any other part of this build. So much so that I really wish that they were molded like every other part of the kit. Especially the lower doors. they are so thin and forward of the CG, I wish they were molded one piece. I started having nightmares today and flashbacks of building my gear doors for my 1/5 mustang last year. Fighting with the glue, and trying to clamp and mold the two pieces to the correct shape to match the contour of the wing[:@]

Eventually I got the lower doors contoured and clamped to the shape they need to be. I wish I could have achieved a slightly more curve to the doors, but they will work. I'm just glad the Hysol has a long cure time while I fiddled with the process.

dvs1

Completed right gear door and installed. This side was the easiest of the two.

Also cut down axles and fitted for proper length.

dvs1

The rear cargo door was too flat and looked out of place on the fuselage so I cut some formers from thin G10 and glued in place to give the door the correct curve to match the fuse. I will install this with a small piano hinge instead of screwing in place for a scale look.

dvs1

Here are the Aileron covers and the blister for the rear fuse antenna cut, sanded and ready for installation.

dvs1

I also glued in the formers and mounted to wing guns. This took a bit to get the correct gun alignment.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

As you can see its pretty simple. The dowl post fits into a hole in an adjecent part in the front.
Operation is simple, you just press the guns in and lift the hood. Closing is the same. This is pretty robust so there should be no worry about the hood popping up in flight.
I had to do the same thing with my Fuse hatch door.

BadLemon

My Feedback: (37)

Found this video of a full size Fw-190 flight at Planes of Fame museum in Chino Ca, back in January 2011 scroll down the page a bit.. I hope it goes to Oshkosh this year.

http://vimeo.com/channels/141285

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Cool video! If memory serve's me correctly, that particular 190 is a new reproduction and utilizes a Pratt and Whitney R2800 radial. It also incorporates an enlarged cowling as well to fit the 2800.


hey DVS, how bout the two of us forget the 1/3 190 and F14 idea, and just buy a flugwerks 190 Your build is looking good BTW. I wish i had the formed gear door interior parts. I haven't decided if i'm going to do those on my project or not (I probably will, since I have gone nuts on every-other thing on it, lol).

dvs1

Bob, thanks for the picture, I may do that with mine, still undecided.


Doug, thanks for the video, very cool. Interesting, I wonder why they decided to only utilize a one piece gear door vs. 2 piece.


Invert, I thought I read somewhere they use a Chinese radial that is a copy of a Russian WWII engine for the new 190's? Either way it is a shame they cant use BMW801's.
I'm with you, I would love to have one myself! As soon as I make my first million it will be first on my list
Just go for the inner gear doors! As fast as you build you'll have em finished in a night. I must say too after looking at the pic you posted on your build of the 190 prop by solo, I think I may go that route for myself. Bad thing is with the G62 I could only go with a 22" prop where I think scale is 24 or 25"

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

It is very possible they are using some chinese/russian/P&W copy/redesign, whatever you want to call it! lol. Their was a 100% original restored 190 (the first in the world i believe) that had its first test flights back in Nov., Dec. of last year. It was powered by a BMW801.. their is video of it somewhere on the web i'm sure.

Either way, It is definitely on my "short list" of items to buy when i win the lottery (So i guess this is an even better reason to start playing?).
As far as the doors, I'll probably do them. I've been putting them off, as i really hate having to make 2 of the same thing and trying to make them identical.
Full-scale Prop diameter is 3300mm (129.92 inch's) 1/5 scale prop size is just under 26".

I can only swing a 22-10 3-blade with the radial as well (or so is said), but even with the slightly smaller diameter (The wow factor from a scale prop and the planes will keep anyone from noticing it being slightly to small i think) won't be noticed except by the die-hard FW-190 fan's.

dvs1

I agree, I would rather have a scale flying prop myself as well. That does surprise me though, I would have thought that with the torque of 7 cylinders that you could swing a 24 or 26" prop. That is a bummer.


I too am starting work on my 501 pylon. Mine was about 2 inches too long for the SisT as far as being a scale length. Looking at all my pictures and references the pylon runs from the panel line behind the cowl (about midway on the landing gear openings) to right in front of the circular panel on the lower fuse behind the wing. So I cut mine along a panel line on the pylon and just collapsed it and glued together. I also changed the angle slightly as the SisT has a very flat profile on the belly of the plane to match. A little sanding and the shape will be correct. I will have to modify it in a few other ways to make it scale but it should turn out well.

If anyone has some close ups of the 501 pylon I would appreciate it so that I can get the correct profile and get the base modified correctly. Thanks.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

That is the same pylon i originally started out with. Do yourself a favor and buy the pylon from Fighteraces from the Uk. it is much nicer, and already has all of the mods you plan to do to your current one done. It's about $130ish shipped from the UK on the slow boat (4 1/2 weeks for mine to arrive).

dvs1

I have thought about it, not sure which way to go yet. I'm not even sure the tank is scale. From pictures ive seen, the tank with the pointed back should have a channel in the bottom rear of the tank. The tanks with the rounded back are more like ours without the channel. Call me tight but I hate to spend 130 for a new pylon. Still deciding on which way to go on the prop too. I only want to place one order to fighter aces so I'm trying to decide if I just want the scale prop or if I want to add a new pylon and tank as well. Decisions decisions. Maybe some magical fairy will come in the night and just finish my plane for me so I don't have to make these decisions. I still need to order an engine too! Call me impatient but also another reason I don't want to order the pylon is because I want it mounted on the plane like yesterday. Waiting a month sucks. However, I am thinking of changing careers next month, in which case I would be at POST for four months so I really don't know, too many decisions in my brain right now.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Well if you need more things to order from fighter-aces.. here is what i've ended up with so far.

501 pylon
Cowl/hatch latch's
Nomenclature decals
The little Triangular antenna thingy on the canopy (you have to ask for this)
Paint masks

Glad i could be of assistance [

Yea, waiting the month for the pylon is a bummer, but it took me 1/2 the amount of time to get it mounted than I had messed with the original one i have (like yours). and the sway braces are 1 piece and actually welded together, not the gorilla polyurethane glue'd 2 piece things..

Experten109/40

My Feedback: (-1)

I'm sure the Type C tank with the squared off tail had the flat bottom near the end.
I've seen quite a few late war Fw190's use the cylinder (cigar) shaped drop tanks
too.

dvs1

Invert, ya thanks again for the info. I appreciate it. With my 190 this will be my first attempt at a very close to 100% scale representation. So I want and need it to be right. I have built a few scale aircraft in the past, but not 100% scale. Will I compete at a top gun level, no. This is just for me, and I like you with your Holman, just need everything to be right. I really do enjoy watching yours come together especially so quickly.

So I guess the question is, is my fuel tank scale to my particular build, being an A8 or A8/R2?

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

As it so happens I have the tank and pylon from fighteraces The tank is already painted and weathered. The pylon isn't. I got the stuff from Todd B.

I may not use it..so pm me if you like.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

As far as i have been able to tell, their were 2 tanks used. the one like i have in my photo's and 1 other one. It also seemed that towards the end of the war, they used whatever they could get their hands on.. So if your doing a late-war version, you should be ok with either tank. Another plus, is that since their aren't many actual tanks still left (i haven't seen any photo's of one) we are even better off

Experten109/40

My Feedback: (-1)

first pic is the Type D tank, second one is the Type C.

Experten109/40

My Feedback: (-1)

whoops sorry. the "cigar" tank were used on 109's and late Fw190D-9's only. again, sorry.

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

I ended up getting the Sist D9 kit with the extra wooden parts kit for the control surfaces to lighten it up I guess. Sadly, I have an extra Sist Anton cowl that I'd hoped would be spare to my kit which was to arive in August or there of but I spent too much for the Dora and have to pass on the Anton.

If anyone want's it. I'm asking $100 shipped for it to the lower 48. It will be here unless I find a really cheap Anton or someone trades me for the Dora.

dvs1

Does it come with the cowl ring? I am interested.

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

Yes it does

dvs1

I am very happy for you that you found a D9, If you care to post your build on this thread that would be great.

If I had the money, I would snag every SisT kit that I could find, I love em!