dgiatr

i would advise you NOT to use those plastic-abs wheel wells because you will face nothing but problems with them! i agree with ticketec that they will offer you nothing but problems. i never use them in my models and i have no problems with wings structure. i you want you can use small pieces of balsa ribs to put them under wing skin near wheels hole , at the inside so no one can see them and you make your wing structure stronger that way. i agree that in case you want to use bigger wheels you will have problems cutting those brittle abs plastc wheel wells. plane looks more scale without them(see some photos of the real one). additionaly retracts will work better without those wells because you will have some clearance between the moving wheels and the nearest part of the wing while opening and closing which ensure you a safe operation.

As fas as power source , for the last 5 years i use two separate baterries with two separate switches and two separate diodes (one in each battery pack at the side of the receiver input) connected to different channels. i have no problem with that setup, i really trust it so much that i use it i all my models.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

A good and cheap solution.

thanks

dave

deadstick79

I angled the rear rail and got the retract centered but the outside end of the axle now rests on the sheeting inside the wheel well which of course is the wings top sheeting!
Thats a little too close for comfort so I think I'll put a thin ply spacer piece on each rail. The aft retract plate will be flush with the surface of the wing so that would be acceptable!
Anyone else run into this?
Dan

HoundDog

My Feedback: (49)

Smart Fly Batt Share works for me. https://www.smart-fly.com/Products/B...e/batshare.htm

kahloq

Yes. Two things. The Sierra gear has a grub screw on the bottom of the oleo so you can adjust the axle position. What I did was put the wheel as close to the strut as possible without the tire rubbing(with a tad bit of space extra). I used 1/4" wheel collars to hold the rim far enough away from the strut so the tire didn't rub. This allowed me to adjust the axle itself to shorten it on the side of the oleo with the wheel so only a washer and that octagon nut with pin is on the other side of the rim. The axle no longer touches or comes close to the wing sheeting. You may end up trimming the excess axle on the opposite side of the strut from the wheel if you put the wheel pants on(or notch a spot in the wheel pants for the axle). Id prefer myself not to trim down the axle just in case I need the length again for a different set of tires. I did not put the wheel pants on, however, I may do so when I build the replacement wing.

Secondly, I did add a wood spacer on top of the retract rails. This was beneficial both for clearance from the wing sheeting for the axle as well as additional strength on the rails since I cut them to angle the gear inwards to negate the toe-out. Rammstein was the first to document this I believe and I followed basically what he did..although I think I ended up using larger tires. On the new wing, Im planning on just using the 4 1/2" ESM aluminum hub wheels(the old style) that I bought awhile back as extras.

I'd really like to get a set of the wheels that this place sells, but they don't answer my emails presumably because Im in the USA and they don't list shipping to the States from Germany. Ive sent emails a couple different times and have gotten zero response when asked how much to ship to the US.
Anyone here that lives in Europe want to help out?

These are the tires Im after:
http://www.sunshine-modellbau.de/ind...m_1_5_ww2.html


Id also like to get a set of these as they have the German tread design:
http://www.sunshine-modellbau.de/ind...w2_125_mm.html

deadstick79

Thanks Kahloq,
The angle I cut for toe-in was too steep and when I put the retract in I was horrified to see the edge of the rail cutting across the middle of the inboard mounting hole! I was bummed for at least an hour!
I will add the spacer ply and on that particular rail I'll cut back the sheeting aft so I can put a nice wide piece on and extend the forward edge enough so the retract rail will be on solid ground so to speak!
I will probably slant the screws a tad to make sure I bite enough lower rail too!
Needless to say, I'll be extra careful with the left wing ;-)
How awful would the stock wheels be other than ugly?
You mentioned "replacement" wing! Did you crash? I don't want to jinx you here
I did do the DuBro pull pull cables on the elevator and I like the result... there is no static slop in the elevator whatsoever! I've never used cables before but I think I'm going to like them! Anything that will lessen the odds of flutter is ok in my book!
There is mention of "hysol" glue! What is the advantage of it over say gorilla glue or epoxy?
Bent your ear enough?
Many Thanks,
Dan

kahloq

Stock foam wheels....ugly. If nothing else, get your self a set of the Williams bros balloon style tires and paint the hub dark grey or black
http://www.activepowersports.com/wil...1222-diameter/

They also have a 5 1/4" size, but that's about the size I used on my first wing. No....I didn't crash the plane. I had structural failure on landing on the 4th flight(landing was great....touched down on the mains rolled out some and let the tail drop). Picture perfect landing until I let it veer off the edge of the runway and the right wheel caught a hole or something and tore the gear assembly out and punched through the top of the wing. This was after a repair from the 2nd flight which had damaged the retract rail area and forward edge of the wing due to a bouncy landing(was using half flaps like the first landing.....plane doesn't like half flaps) It bounced a good deal the first flight, but didn't hurt anything. 2nd flight, still trying to figure out the best way to land it, I again used half flaps and the nasty bounced happened again ripping the right gear out. I fixed it, added some wood support, etc, but the damaged had been done already so I was just reinforcing an already weakened area. 3rd flight I had a perfect landing. Full flaps, on the mains and she rolled out nicely. I let the tail drop on its own. Taxied back and was like YAY!! Put the plane away and came back another day. 4th flight, winds were opposite to my preferred direction so had to land from the south. As I was still nervous with the plane, I walked across the runway and stood there to land it so it would basically be a left to right landing approach that Im more comfortable with since this is an expensive plane. However, while I did a decent job getting her down, my points of reference were gone since standing on that side of the runway. The plane rolled off the side of the runway and pop...there went that wing area again.
So...with the new wing, I will be fiberglassing the inside and adding a bunch of extra wood support and internal sheeting.
Ive gotten more proficient with the right to left approach, but its still more comfortable left to right for me. The incident with the first wing happened 1 1/2 years ago and Ive not built the replacement wing since...instead built other planes. Ill get back to it probably this winter.

Anyway.....Ive never used hysol, though I keep hearing good things about it. Ive been using gorilla glue a lot lately inside wings and its been keeping things nice and strong.

deadstick79

I feel your pain!
Theres a spray foam that we use when installing vinyl windows and patio doors! One expands too much and would bow the vinyl frame inward. But the other one is low expanding and would probably do a good job adding seamless support for these gear pockets. You might close off several wing bays out from the the gear pockets and fill er' up! Once cured, it's a piece of cake to trim the stuff!
I'm gonna go fly my Dynam FW 190a and GeeBee now that the wind dropped off to about 8 mph! Then I'm going to see if this idea would work!
Later!
Dan

deadstick79

I do believe the spray foam will work! I'm going to close off the opennings on the rib just outboard of the retract, the opens along the main spar from there inboard for the 3-1/2 bays. I will temorarily seal off all aroud the retract bay also so the foam can stay dense while its filling. I'll lay wax paper to wrap the outside of the temporary wood so it won't be a hassle getting that wood out later!
It should really beef things up! The stuff is really sticky so it will really grab everything under there and be as a solid block Hellfire, I'm gettin giddy just writing about it!

deadstick79

Oh Boy! http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items...VII-70AAF.html

kahloq

Seen that. Nice size @70"...its a bit bigger then my H9 DVII at 65"

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

There seem to be some design, engineering weaknesses in that wing, in regards to the landing gear mounts. It is not about adding glue, but tying the structures together. Skin strength etc. The entire area of the wing sheeting needs to be glassed, but that would require removing the covering. I think this is something many not want to do though, as this would mean a refinish job, at least on the bottom.

kahloq

Adding just extra glue no, would not be enough. However, putting in extra wood supports, tying in with extra wood along the ribs with glue etc should be ok. The way my gear popped out, it went through the top of the wing, so glassing just the bottom sheeting wouldn't have helped, I will though, be trying to glass from inside the wing on the underside of the sheeting on the top of the wing.

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Well, anything is better than stock, that is for sure! They should have added plywood doublers to all of the surrounding ribs, and ran the landing gear mount rails through rectangular holes in these ribs. Then the entire structure would be tied together. Then glassing the surrounding wing skins top and bottom would help. Probably with at least 2 oz. cloth. When gluing in wood, remember that end grain does not adhere. Glue surfaces must be edge grain or face grain, otherwise the joint will fail.

deadstick79

I had an old Sterling that I electrified with an Eflite 60... It had a 58" span! Flew great til a brown-out
I had a neighbor that lived four doors down who flew the DVII while attached to Richtofen's Jasta! He joined the Jasta a couple months after the Baron's death!
Fasanating guy! He wrote a book titled "Step Child Pilot" . He gave me and my grandmother a signed copy! I was about 15 when I first met him and we became fast friends. After coming home from Vietnam in 1970, I went to see him but he had died of a heart attack just a few weeks earlier! Very sad! He was the first pilot to fly passengers across Lake Michigan from Milwaukee to Michigan in 1929! His book is a good and fast read!

deadstick79

The spray foam will tie all the ribs etc. together nicely cause it is super sticky and will adhere to everything it touches! The stuff is murder to remove from wood casings and vinyl frames

kahloq

Where can I buy this spray foam?

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

Home depot.

deadstick79

Any home supply! Even walmart carries it! I prefer the DAP Kwik foam (black can) with minimal expansion. It's denser!
follow the d's on the can and spray a little bit at a time... it won't take much!

kahloq

This one?
http://www.amazon.com/DAPtex-18836-W..._sim_sbs_hi_10

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

Out of curiosity, how easy would it be to repair the wing if damaged again after the foam is applied since its so durable?

deadstick79

No, .this one but a single can http://www.amazon.com/Pack-18230-Pol...ethane+sealant

deadstick79

If the foam was "broken" I would imagine gorilla glue would work!

vertical grimmace

My Feedback: (1)

I am going to recommend against using that foam. But that is just my opinion. I have seen it used in the middle of construction to fill rib bays, but not after the wing was complete and finished. Unless done properly, I doubt it is going to add much real strength.

Out of my curiosity, I would be interested if anyone has actually filled the wing of their ARF, to actually test how well this worked? I would not recommend something, that has not been proven to work. That is an expensive wing to replace if it does not.

HoundDog

My Feedback: (49)

deadstick 79 .....
PLZ Take some Pictures and show the rest of us of your success.