lablover

Could someone give me a prop recommendation for the new OS 95v Manual shows none and local HS has not a clue Should of mentioned 3 blade

iflircaircraft

To answer your question regarding the recommended propeller for the 95V. Page 10 (ten) of the OS 95V manual states: Sport and Aerobatic: 13x7-9, 14x6-8. Scale: 15x6-8.
I have a question regarding the quick disconnects for the pneumatic Robarts. Does it matter if the O-ring is on the lines to the air valve or the gear?
I noticed in the manual for the Corsair ARF the O-ring should be on the quick connect from the air valve. Mine is reversed!

Tom

KNowAceHere

I believe you have one backwards from the other so you won't hook them up wrong. I used color tubing so I won't hook them up backwards.

iflircaircraft

I have colored tubing too but I'm color blind. I put a piece of fuel tubing over the airlines on one pair to keep me from hooking them up backasswards.

Brad-C

Correction on this. They do fit actually. When I first checked they wee still in the package so I must have not gotten the plastic out of the way well enough. Not much extra space with them but enough to fit without modifying the wing I think.

Brad-C

Got one retract dry fitted and it looks like it will be fine fit wise. I just had to add in 1/4" strips to get a snug fit. Video attached.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qj_h6...ature=youtu.be

handyman 220

My Feedback: (54)

I have a set of Sierras that I bought for a CMP 120 Corsair wonder if they will fit the TF ARF?
I'll have to dig them out of the stock pile to see if they will work. [

iflircaircraft

When installing retracts on the rails you will need to shim the forward inboard mounts as they tapered the rails to follow the curve of the wing.
Also when installing the cockpit the sides are to be installed before the instrument panel. Just a couple of tips for you all to consider.
Handyman: the sierras struts are too long for this application and also some modification to the main spar would be necessary.

Tom

handyman 220

My Feedback: (54)

Now that you mentioned it the air cylinder came very close to the main spar on the CMP 120 Corsair. I do have the Robart 615's so it will have retracting gear somehow. Might even try to do the tailwheel, seeing it's all easy access.

iflircaircraft

The Robart 615s fit right in without any cutting. You may have to put shims under the robart mount plate on the front inboard wood rail on each side or they will bind. The wood rail is tapered to follow the contour of the wing.
I have a retractable tail wheel but I'm going to do a complete bashing of this ARF once I see how it flies. I've had very bad luck with Corsairs in the past.

Tom

Brad-C

Robostrut attached with E-Flite retracts. Pretty easy to do. Now I just need to set everything in with epoxy, paint, and clean up the covering around the edges. I'll make strut covers too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rC7b0...ature=youtu.be

lablover

Brad, those are the eflite 46's right? they look like they are gonna work out nice. Do you feel confident they will hold the weight? I see you decided to get rid of the loop in the wire strut

Brad-C

Yep, they are the 46's. They seem plenty strong enough to me. They spec them to 9.5lb which is about right for this plane plus the rating is probably conservative. They are very well made (all metal) and have a cam-over like lock in the down position so the servo motor isn't taking any of the load. The wood rails I added in to compensate for the width are screwed in from the sides and epoxied so that should be strong enough as well.

I had to take the coils out to use the Robostruts. I had them in originally and actually ruined one of the struts by not checking how short they can go before I cut it. (irritating $40 mistake full of colorful language in my garage when I realized it). With the coils out, there is plenty of length left to the inner stops on the struts. The wires from the retracts are 1" long in to the struts. It was easy enough to take them out. I just used the other end of the wire struts and machined the flats back in the same places as they are above the coil. The diameter of the other end is just slightly bigger though (a thou or two) but I put the wire in a drill and spun it on sandpaper for a couple of minutes until it fit right in the retract.

lablover

I have the 60 eflites on my TF P-47. the only issue I ever have is bending the strut wire when I have a crappy landing. They are very well made so i think the 46 size will be fine. They sure look good!!

BTW, what model struts are those?

Brad-C

Thanks for the comments. These are the 650 model.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXES65

lablover

Thanks a bunch. I will be watching for a flight report


Heck you are in Sunny Cal. Lucky guy. I wont have to wait till spring to see the flight report LOL

Brad-C

I know, I need to find more time to get this thing done. I usually finish planes a lot faster than this but it's just been slow going on this one with other stuff coming up all the time. Our club bans gas around June or so to give our landlords a false sense of security from fire so I need to get on it.

lablover

That's kind of a bummer

Brad-C

I know. It makes no sense when you compare the risks to a bashed up LiPo or even a flight pack but it is what it is. We don't have a formal lease on the field so we do the gas ban to keep the land owner happy. That and $500 cash each year along with a case of beer for a really nice field, makes it hard to complain too much.

KNowAceHere

Has anyone thought of putting a hinge cover over the retracts? I'm thinking of putting one on. Have i mounted with a pinned hinge under the front part of the retract. There is about 3/4" of space before you reach the leading edge. A nice flat spot to expoy the hinge on. Then have it attached to the gear wire or robostrut with a zip tie loosely fitted so it will slide up and down the wire. Have the cover made out of balsa or light ply and painted or covered. It wont cover the wheel but should hide the retract itself.
I believe corsiarjock has a thread on this under "Front Landing Gear Doors" He was putting it on a 60 size kit, but I think a modified version will work for the ARF and simple to do too. What do you all think?

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Yep, I posted it in the 'Top Flite 1/8 scale Corsair Mods' thread. Rather easy to do (compared to doing the aft doors). I'm not home from my Florida trip yet, will be home Tuesday. When I get home, I'll locate the post(s) and link them here.

cerralvo78

Im pertty close to finish my TopFlite Corsair 60 ARF. I want to purchase the right Electrical landing gear

TOPFLITE IS ASKING to buy robart pneumatic retracts
615 100 Degree Rotating Mains

AT the LADO website they have the RS333 100 dgree but if u go to gear finder it recomends the RS333RT

Should I get the RS333 100°????
or
RS333RT?????

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE between both of them????

THANKS
ARMANDO GARZA

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

If one is 100 deg, the other 90 deg: I would go with the 100 deg. You will be rewarded with better ground handling/ less likelihood of nose overs.

m3_express

Armando,

The RS333 - 100 degree is NOT A ROTATING retract. It's a standard type of retract. The RS333RT is the ROTATING version. The "RT" and "RB" designations indicate whether it's a top mount or bottom mount. For Top-Flite kits, you need the RT version. The RB version's are typically for Hangar 9 kits.

By the way, the rotating 333 series retract on the lado website are all 90 degree. As CJ stated, it's better to go 100 degree. Supposedly, Lado will be releasing 100 degree versions of the rotating 333 series soon.

hk

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Got home from Florida Tuesday evening. Finally found some free time today, so It,....
FOUND IT: Functional Front Landing Gear Doors.
Several posts, beginning with this one:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1149555