CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
05-07-2014, 08:19 PM
#2701
Very cool Gary , I don't think ive seen that 2nd video before .It showed the intakes and brake backing plates I made for you , a proud moment for me .
I still have the mould and prototype for the brakes .If your interested I'll give them to you .
CORRECTION I was looking at the video by Marvinf14 with the Blacksheep theme sorry .
I still have the mould and prototype for the brakes .If your interested I'll give them to you .
CORRECTION I was looking at the video by Marvinf14 with the Blacksheep theme sorry .
Yes, I would love to have those molds.Thank you very much.
Gary
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 05-07-2014 at 08:22 PM.
05-08-2014, 07:53 AM
#2702
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I put a lot of work into them , but could never get a successful result . Maybe you will have better luck with them.
Better off with you than gathering dust in my garage.
you might want to e mail your address again cause I lost it.
just checked my inbox here by accident ,4 messages I never was notified about ???
I still have some speaker screen i'll send along with the mold etc.
Better off with you than gathering dust in my garage.
you might want to e mail your address again cause I lost it.
just checked my inbox here by accident ,4 messages I never was notified about ???
I still have some speaker screen i'll send along with the mold etc.
Last edited by pappy 883; 05-08-2014 at 01:22 PM.
05-08-2014, 04:32 PM
#2703
I put a lot of work into them , but could never get a successful result . Maybe you will have better luck with them.
Better off with you than gathering dust in my garage.
you might want to e mail your address again cause I lost it.
just checked my inbox here by accident ,4 messages I never was notified about ???
I still have some speaker screen i'll send along with the mold etc.
Better off with you than gathering dust in my garage.
you might want to e mail your address again cause I lost it.
just checked my inbox here by accident ,4 messages I never was notified about ???
I still have some speaker screen i'll send along with the mold etc.
05-08-2014, 04:38 PM
#2704
This is interesting. Could be another option in adjustable pitch props for our Moki engines. I also like all the options in prop blade shapes.
Click on 'propeller size 32i'. That is the one for the Moki engine.
http://www.ramoser.de/home_e/varioprop_e/varioprop_e.html
Click on 'propeller size 32i'. That is the one for the Moki engine.
http://www.ramoser.de/home_e/varioprop_e/varioprop_e.html
I'm sure that we will be learning more about this system.
05-09-2014, 01:42 PM
#2705
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Got your message Gary, its just some leftover screen from a local audio store. Its enough for 4 sets of intakes.
i'll be sending the brake prototype, the silicon mold, 2 failed examples, and the speaker screen stuff .
i'll be sending the brake prototype, the silicon mold, 2 failed examples, and the speaker screen stuff .
05-09-2014, 09:21 PM
#2706
I have three of their other smaller hubs and they are awesome. Since there is a central keyed sliding part the blades root keys into a single screw will adjust all the blades simultaneously. The blades are injection molded and made very precisely to fit the machined hub. I have 3,4&5 blade hubs for electric motors. This new 32i hub is really nice to see from Vario.
With a Watt Meter you can fine tune the pitch very simply by loosening the hub and making an adjustment then tightening it up again. On an engine you will use a tach and temp monitor.
For the 12C hub they dont suggest using it on an engine due to the power pulses and high RPM. They must have designed and tested the new 32i specifically for the big Moki. These guys make full scale props so Im pretty confident in these. Anyways Im very excited to see this and Im really considering getting one. I have the Solo 3 blade hub set but this one looks better I think.
With a Watt Meter you can fine tune the pitch very simply by loosening the hub and making an adjustment then tightening it up again. On an engine you will use a tach and temp monitor.
For the 12C hub they dont suggest using it on an engine due to the power pulses and high RPM. They must have designed and tested the new 32i specifically for the big Moki. These guys make full scale props so Im pretty confident in these. Anyways Im very excited to see this and Im really considering getting one. I have the Solo 3 blade hub set but this one looks better I think.
Last edited by Chris Nicastro; 05-09-2014 at 09:24 PM.
05-14-2014, 08:47 PM
#2709
Sierra set of retracts arrived today for my Corsair!
Im gathering equipment here and there in prep for the build. Pretty cool to see the big parts arrive.
Questions:
Was there a scale tail hook mod or something available to buy to improve the tail retract?
Id like to see how some have solved this before I tackle it later.
How has the pneumatic retract set worked for you guys and is the electric conversion totally necessary?
If your using the air set up how have you installed it and made it work reliably?
Thanks
Chris
Im gathering equipment here and there in prep for the build. Pretty cool to see the big parts arrive.
Questions:
Was there a scale tail hook mod or something available to buy to improve the tail retract?
Id like to see how some have solved this before I tackle it later.
How has the pneumatic retract set worked for you guys and is the electric conversion totally necessary?
If your using the air set up how have you installed it and made it work reliably?
Thanks
Chris
05-14-2014, 09:59 PM
#2710
Sierra set of retracts arrived today for my Corsair!
Im gathering equipment here and there in prep for the build. Pretty cool to see the big parts arrive.
Questions:
Was there a scale tail hook mod or something available to buy to improve the tail retract?
Id like to see how some have solved this before I tackle it later.
How has the pneumatic retract set worked for you guys and is the electric conversion totally necessary?
If your using the air set up how have you installed it and made it work reliably?
Thanks
Chris
Im gathering equipment here and there in prep for the build. Pretty cool to see the big parts arrive.
Questions:
Was there a scale tail hook mod or something available to buy to improve the tail retract?
Id like to see how some have solved this before I tackle it later.
How has the pneumatic retract set worked for you guys and is the electric conversion totally necessary?
If your using the air set up how have you installed it and made it work reliably?
Thanks
Chris
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2cD-BlZrSo
www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkKSBCstNu0
www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNKkPwIBNlk
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 05-14-2014 at 10:51 PM.
05-14-2014, 10:21 PM
#2711
As for the tail hook itself, Graeme was making a resin one that was part of his kit. I used this one for mine. We have not had time to produce one as yet, but I would like to in the future.
Gear. The Corsair gear has a very small degree of cam over to lock it down. This is necessary or it would not unlock properly without some sort of spring. When new, this is fairly reliable. However, after parts wear in, the slightest slop in the mechanism can be enough to allow it to unlock on a good backward motion landing strike, as you would have in a slightly tail high touch down. A loss of air pressure as in a slight leak makes all this even more likely. I say this from experience with the stock system.
First, the electric conversion will not allow the gear to unlock even under less than perfect landing strikes because the scissor will not move unless the jack screw turns. Second, the electric gear moves in a much more scale way, even with air restrictors in place. Third, you can cycle the gear as often as you like, as you need to in competition for instance, with no concerns like you would have with air.
I have been flying Down and Locked electric conversions for over 4 years with not a single gear failure. No belly landings or controlled crash landings due to gear issues. None. I can't say this with most of the air systems I have had over the last 45 years. And I maintain my stuff. I was so glad when I was introduced to Mitch and his team at Down and Locked and saw what they could do for us who use retracts.
My planes are detailed and expensive. I am hard enough on them without adding gear failure into the mix.
Now, you will have guys claiming they never have problems with their air gear. OK, I'm happy for you. In the REAL world, at every event I have ever attended, I have seen gear failures with air gear and this include places like Top Gun where it happens to some of the very best builders. The damage ranges from minor to more often moderate, and sometimes even crippling. If you have been in the hobby for awhile, you have seen this yourself. I have been using retracts for almost as long as I have been in the hobby. Remember Rohm, and Spring Air? Glad we have progressed away from those days. Was never the same after we could no longer use Freon.
Gear. The Corsair gear has a very small degree of cam over to lock it down. This is necessary or it would not unlock properly without some sort of spring. When new, this is fairly reliable. However, after parts wear in, the slightest slop in the mechanism can be enough to allow it to unlock on a good backward motion landing strike, as you would have in a slightly tail high touch down. A loss of air pressure as in a slight leak makes all this even more likely. I say this from experience with the stock system.
First, the electric conversion will not allow the gear to unlock even under less than perfect landing strikes because the scissor will not move unless the jack screw turns. Second, the electric gear moves in a much more scale way, even with air restrictors in place. Third, you can cycle the gear as often as you like, as you need to in competition for instance, with no concerns like you would have with air.
I have been flying Down and Locked electric conversions for over 4 years with not a single gear failure. No belly landings or controlled crash landings due to gear issues. None. I can't say this with most of the air systems I have had over the last 45 years. And I maintain my stuff. I was so glad when I was introduced to Mitch and his team at Down and Locked and saw what they could do for us who use retracts.
My planes are detailed and expensive. I am hard enough on them without adding gear failure into the mix.
Now, you will have guys claiming they never have problems with their air gear. OK, I'm happy for you. In the REAL world, at every event I have ever attended, I have seen gear failures with air gear and this include places like Top Gun where it happens to some of the very best builders. The damage ranges from minor to more often moderate, and sometimes even crippling. If you have been in the hobby for awhile, you have seen this yourself. I have been using retracts for almost as long as I have been in the hobby. Remember Rohm, and Spring Air? Glad we have progressed away from those days. Was never the same after we could no longer use Freon.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 05-14-2014 at 10:50 PM.
05-15-2014, 06:33 AM
#2712
Damn it Gary, you have me thinking about the conversion again…LOL I've never had a problem with any of my air driven gear.
My corsair is sidetracked for a while. This bad boy is in my shop, built by Graham Buchanan, just needs programming and a few loose ends tied up.
My corsair is sidetracked for a while. This bad boy is in my shop, built by Graham Buchanan, just needs programming and a few loose ends tied up.
05-15-2014, 04:53 PM
#2714
Thanks for the vids Gary I see what you mean perfectly.
As for the air vs electric I understand your point and like DrScoles Ive had little problems with well installed air systems myself over the years. I think what Ill do is moch up the gear on the bench and cycle it to see what it does and if I can detect any issues with my set up. If something comes up Ill consult with Darrel first since he should stand by his work and then ultimately decide on the conversion.
Whats the cost of the D&L conversion?
As for the air vs electric I understand your point and like DrScoles Ive had little problems with well installed air systems myself over the years. I think what Ill do is moch up the gear on the bench and cycle it to see what it does and if I can detect any issues with my set up. If something comes up Ill consult with Darrel first since he should stand by his work and then ultimately decide on the conversion.
Whats the cost of the D&L conversion?
05-15-2014, 08:17 PM
#2715
Thanks for the vids Gary I see what you mean perfectly.
As for the air vs electric I understand your point and like DrScoles Ive had little problems with well installed air systems myself over the years. I think what Ill do is moch up the gear on the bench and cycle it to see what it does and if I can detect any issues with my set up. If something comes up Ill consult with Darrel first since he should stand by his work and then ultimately decide on the conversion.
Whats the cost of the D&L conversion?
As for the air vs electric I understand your point and like DrScoles Ive had little problems with well installed air systems myself over the years. I think what Ill do is moch up the gear on the bench and cycle it to see what it does and if I can detect any issues with my set up. If something comes up Ill consult with Darrel first since he should stand by his work and then ultimately decide on the conversion.
Whats the cost of the D&L conversion?
I can't make any better case for the conversion on this plane than I already have.
I consider it cheap insurance at around $500.
The wing conversion is another story. I consider that a must. The CARF team lost a Corsair at Top Gun. GUESS Why? Hydraulic failure on the fold system. They (CARF) will never endorse the electric conversion or use it on their aircraft. That would be an admission that their oem system is flawed, which it is IMO.
Darrell will stand by his air systems as well. The fact still remains that the gear can and has folded under air pressure. It has never folded after being converted. Never.
I like that piece of mind for such a large investment in time and money.
05-20-2014, 05:34 AM
#2716
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Gary,
Step by step Im getting closer to the Maiden of my carf corsair and you are an invaluable source of knowledge. I thank you for that. What you have done is impressive.
I getting the cowl flaps set-up and I have a couple of questions:
- I am running my moki 250 with bafles and an electric fuel pump.
- Just finishing the cowl flaps.
I believe that Im doing everything I can to keep my engine from overheating I was wondering if I am forgeting something about that?
I know I should have the cowl flaps opened while on the ground and taxi time should be reduced to a mínimum right?
How about the use of the cowl flaps on air?
Thanks,
Roberto
Step by step Im getting closer to the Maiden of my carf corsair and you are an invaluable source of knowledge. I thank you for that. What you have done is impressive.
I getting the cowl flaps set-up and I have a couple of questions:
- I am running my moki 250 with bafles and an electric fuel pump.
- Just finishing the cowl flaps.
I believe that Im doing everything I can to keep my engine from overheating I was wondering if I am forgeting something about that?
I know I should have the cowl flaps opened while on the ground and taxi time should be reduced to a mínimum right?
How about the use of the cowl flaps on air?
Thanks,
Roberto
05-20-2014, 09:09 AM
#2717
Gary,
Step by step Im getting closer to the Maiden of my carf corsair and you are an invaluable source of knowledge. I thank you for that. What you have done is impressive.
I getting the cowl flaps set-up and I have a couple of questions:
- I am running my moki 250 with bafles and an electric fuel pump.
- Just finishing the cowl flaps.
I believe that Im doing everything I can to keep my engine from overheating I was wondering if I am forgeting something about that?
I know I should have the cowl flaps opened while on the ground and taxi time should be reduced to a mínimum right?
How about the use of the cowl flaps on air?
Thanks,
Roberto
Step by step Im getting closer to the Maiden of my carf corsair and you are an invaluable source of knowledge. I thank you for that. What you have done is impressive.
I getting the cowl flaps set-up and I have a couple of questions:
- I am running my moki 250 with bafles and an electric fuel pump.
- Just finishing the cowl flaps.
I believe that Im doing everything I can to keep my engine from overheating I was wondering if I am forgeting something about that?
I know I should have the cowl flaps opened while on the ground and taxi time should be reduced to a mínimum right?
How about the use of the cowl flaps on air?
Thanks,
Roberto
Tack your engine (adjust your prop) for 3800 rpm on the ground. It will unload just right in the air. Over speed gets the valves floating and overheats the engine.
The benefit of the working cowl flaps is that you can get them farther open. Open them all the way whenever the engine is running. Only close them for static or transport. This includes the whole flight.
05-20-2014, 09:19 AM
#2718
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Hello Roberto. Glad yo are getting close.
Tack your engine (adjust your prop) for 3800 rpm on the ground. It will unload just right in the air. Over speed gets the valves floating and overheats the engine.
The benefit of the working cowl flaps is that you can get them farther open. Open them all the way whenever the engine is running. Only close them for static or transport. This includes the whole flight.
Tack your engine (adjust your prop) for 3800 rpm on the ground. It will unload just right in the air. Over speed gets the valves floating and overheats the engine.
The benefit of the working cowl flaps is that you can get them farther open. Open them all the way whenever the engine is running. Only close them for static or transport. This includes the whole flight.
I will be using the 2-blade prop for the first flights, am I should target the 3800rpm for a 2-blade?
I read maybe on February that you were preparing a set of plastic or abs accesories? Are you done? If not please post it here so we can all take advantage of that.
Roberto.
05-20-2014, 11:26 AM
#2719
Thank you for your answer Gary.
I will be using the 2-blade prop for the first flights, am I should target the 3800rpm for a 2-blade?
I read maybe on February that you were preparing a set of plastic or abs accesories? Are you done? If not please post it here so we can all take advantage of that.
Roberto.
I will be using the 2-blade prop for the first flights, am I should target the 3800rpm for a 2-blade?
I read maybe on February that you were preparing a set of plastic or abs accesories? Are you done? If not please post it here so we can all take advantage of that.
Roberto.
05-20-2014, 11:30 AM
#2720
Thank you for your answer Gary.
I will be using the 2-blade prop for the first flights, am I should target the 3800rpm for a 2-blade?
I read maybe on February that you were preparing a set of plastic or abs accesories? Are you done? If not please post it here so we can all take advantage of that.
Roberto.
I will be using the 2-blade prop for the first flights, am I should target the 3800rpm for a 2-blade?
I read maybe on February that you were preparing a set of plastic or abs accesories? Are you done? If not please post it here so we can all take advantage of that.
Roberto.
