ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Dwdom02tb8

Check this out. It is a test run of our new gun system. Keep in mind that one of the speakers is still in the box in the background!!!!!

MRadu

Gary and Brian,

The lights and sound is absolutely fantastic. Now I can not wait to get them into my Corsair!!!!!

Just a thought. Do the nav. lights have to be on to fire off the guns?

Or are they both on separate channels?


Thanks for taking the time to make and post the video.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

The nav / formation lights and the guns are two completely separate systems with separate controls and batteries. On our Top Gun plane, we used a toggle switch on the airplane to turn the lights on, and the guns were 'fired' from the radio by pushing on the left top trim switch labeled LTRM/HVPT on the JR 12X. This made a very cool 'trigger'.

I like color on the guns lights, hence the orange yellow color of them. These will be mounted in the barrels when you get them. This test was powered with 24 AA batteries. The system we ship will be set up for LiPo use, unless a customer is satisfied with the AA type power. Keep in mind that the gun system will only be 'fired' a few times in a flight, and then for only a couple seconds at a time, as full scale. Batteries will last a long time on this system.

JSZ

My Feedback: (73)

Nice work Gary & Brian, came out great!

STAN-CAUSSEL

Hi
Did someone know where to find these items ?
It seems that Graeme doesn't produce them anymore.
Best regards
Stan

stivvy

I don't think that these are available anywhere else.
Graeme made these for a customer and then sold a few sets to other builders.
Shame that he isn't able to make any more.

Steve D

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

You can make your own with some balsa and body filler.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Yes, making the tooling for producing these parts is time consuming. Not surprised that Graeme has little time to do this with all he does in competition every year.

I will continue to work on making available what I can for this wonderful Corsair. Right now, we have the lighting system, the opperational scale exhaust system, the simulated gun systyem including the gun port fairings (at some point in the coming year this will also include the gun smoke feacher), coming will be the cowl flap kit with stainless steel stand-offs in the proper lengths for engine thrust angles, the exhaust fairings, a nice instrument panel, and maybe a few other things as time permits.

I too have projects other than the CARF to get done and I run a small construction busness with my sons, so it is all a matter of juggleing time with me as well. Fortunately, my brother is very involved in most of this as well, or it would be impossible for me as well.

We are always adding to our knowledge of how to produce scale parts efficiantly and inexpencively, and as we gain more capabilities and equipment, perhaps we will be able to offer some of these other items ourselves.

In the meantime, I try to make it possible to duplicate what we do via build threads and the pictures and explanations within, for builders with similar shops and harware.

I enjoy sharing and helping others to produce a higher level of realism in there models and that everyone for their patience.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

This would be an option for some builders. Do you have a step by step in your threads somewhere Sam? Might help some guys.

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Yo Gary,
All your F4U 'add ons' are impressive.
As for inner gear door detail, I just get a full scale size picture and use that for reference to make the inner door. Really not much to it, use and xacto knife to cut recesses out of some balsa sheet, glue to the door and add some easysand bondo to smooth out the edges. A whole lot easier than detailing a cockpit!

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Thanks for the post Sam.

I have often found that things are a lot harder in my mind than in reality.

STAN-CAUSSEL

Hi
Gear doors are working perfect with e-doors by e-retract ( Lado )

STAN-CAUSSEL

here is the youtube link
http://youtu.be/2zfuFmxIEV4

stivvy

Hi Stan - the E-doors look really good.

They do 2 versions, 20mm and 30mm - which ones have you used ?

Steve D

STAN-CAUSSEL

Oups , I forgot this detail
The 30mm stroke is too long to be placed into the gear bay.
So I used 20 mm ones. Lado has also a programming card capable to sequence the e-doors with the gear. You program a delay during the buid-up and after the programming card stay at home.

stivvy

Thanks Stan,

I have looked at the E-doors earlier and discounted them, but they seem ideal.

I will check out the costs.

Cheers, Steve D

STAN-CAUSSEL

Less expensive than robart pneumatic actuators + air tank + pneumatic valve + sequencer + compressor on the field..... and NO air leak with e-doors

STAN-CAUSSEL

build detail

STAN-CAUSSEL

Hi
I find a very easy way to shorten the tail gear absorber.
You'll have to take an old antenna from a toy of your child ... and then follow the pics.
With 3,5 inch the absorber is short enough to have just half of the tyre out when L/G is retracted.

STAN-CAUSSEL

next...

samparfitt

My Feedback: (43)

Speaking of inner gear door detail, nice work making yours using balsa sheet.

Also, nice work setting up the gear and door sequence.

Lado's web site:
http://www.lado-tech.net/en/e-doors/...door-20mm.html

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Hello guys.

Any of you noticed this yet? A friend tipped me off and I picked up a copy. It is the June issue of Model Airplane News. On page 12 is a picture of our team Vought at Top Gun last year. We are getting Big Hog started for a practice flight. That is me turning the Moki 250 over. Brian is on the tail. Dino is on the starboard wing with the radio, and the Judge is on the port wing.

It is cool to see your airplanes in the magazines.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Great stuff Stan. Thank you for the posts.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

I agree with Sam, and thank you for posting the web site.

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Got the go ahead from the owner of this Corsair on the cowl sectioning, so I will be cutting it apart and making that mod. First time for this one. Always makes me nervouis.

The cowl will be in two halves for easy removal without pulling the prop. This is made easy because the cowl flaps are not part of the cowl. I'll be adding an extra mounting bolt and changing the location of all of them. Two for each half.

This will make Moki maintenance very easy.

This is where I will be cutting it apart. The picture is of the top, and the bottom is the same. Scale size screws will be used in the CARF locations to screw it together. I'll also add a guide pin top and bottom, drilled into the Steel Powder in the nose of the cowl.