erans

I then glued the centre section TE made out of 1/4" sheet balsa, and the bottom TEspar made out of 1/4" square until passing rib W8 and then changes to 1/4" x 1/8". I had to clamp the spar where it joins W1 as the notch was not in line due to the angle of W1.

erans

Now for few small tasks. I glued the plywood support for the brass control rod to rib W9, created the TEabove the radiator from 1/4" balsa sheet (this was the only place where the laser cut seemed to be not perfect, with half rib W2A slightly too long), and glued the short spar next to the wing joiner (3/8" square).
I also faced a bit of a problem, finding out that Ido not have long enough 3/32" drill to drill through my brass slat rod tubes... I used thin metal wire to push through and then drilled from the LEtwords the brass tube which came out OK.

erans

The last two tasks, which bring this build to "up to date" status, were the gluing of the forward top spar and TEpart W13 (where the flap will be)

From here, the thread will continue as my progress does, but I hope it won't be too slow.

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Hello Erans,

thank you for posting the building sequence. A couple of notes:
Rib W1 is not cut until all the stringers are glued in place. This helps keep the Rib lined up.
Also is important to glue the leading and trailing edges, etc. while the wing assembly is flat on the building board. That way you will prevent unwanted twisting of the structure.
I'll try to get a close up of the pull-pull rudder.

Cheers,

JG

erans

Hi Jose, all the spars, LE and TE were glued while wing was flat
I was moving it sometimes for the photos (to get better light).

Iwas wondering if you built a second Me-109 (or fixed the first one) since the crash? If yes, do you have any more flying videos?

Eran

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Hi Eran,

I have re-built the 109, new wing and all but not finished painting and detailing yet due to a hundred other projects! many not rc related. One of these is the 1/5 Ta152 fiberglass fuse that is slooowly getting finished. The only flying video is of the 3rd flight, off of the concrete runway which is very difficult in the begining.
ALso in this flight I removed the muffler to test some overheating issues, so it's loud.

http://youtu.be/GDA-VYUdmDA

Warning: take off and landings that day were not pretty! The sun in my face did not help either, on the other hand, flying off grass runway makes the take off and landing much easier. . ( just lke the full size)

JG

erans

Hi Jose

I saw this video and it made me decide that when my Me-109 is ready I will use the grass strip in our field if it will still be usable after the runways upgrade...
Ialso may have a "dry lake" area available for me to conduct my test flights. In this case I will not have any constraints.
The main problem I can see is that if the aeroplane comes at over 7Kg (which I believe it will), Iwill need to certify it under the "heavy model permit" (Australian regulations) and to do that I will have to fly it at my airfield, which may, at the time, will not have enough grass strip left...

I am looking forward to see the Ta152 and even more so to see your Me-109 back in the air with more flying information from you on your thread. If I may add to your wish list, it is that you will produce a Hawker Hurricane at 1/5 scale

Eran

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

G'day Eran,

7kg about 16/17 lbs. mine came out at 17lbs I believe, pretty close. The grass runways help a lot because it slows the airplane down, so it allows to apply full throttle right away and the rudder actually starts working from the get go.

Landings should be 3 pointers, the slats help a lot to slow dawn before touch down.
http://youtu.be/mzgYkfq9OVw

Reg. Hurricane is not in my list at the moment but the Tempest is.

JG

erans

Jose - Thank you for the YouTube. Looking at this give me goose bumps. I have the DVD"One Summer - Two Messerschmitts" and it is the best aviation DVDI own (and I own quite a few...). Ican listen to the DB605 and watch the Me-109 take off and land all day...

The Tempest will be very interesting. The easiest scale engine installation ever...

As to the weight, I will have heavier engine then you (the MVVS 30cc Petrol), and have the weight of the ignition + ignition battery, not to mention that I may have more servos in the wing. Iwill be very surprised if Iwill end up under 7Kg... Once I finish the one side of Fliteskin covering Iwill get the heavy model inspector to look at the wing before Iclose it so he will have confidence in the construction (which will make certification easier).

Ialso had time to make some progress today. The left wing is starting to take shape on the building board. This time, Ihave glued the plywood doublers to W2 and W3 before pinning them to the building board, it was easier that way.

erans

Not a huge amount of progress today (Ihad to do some work in the garden to keep my wife happy).
I installed the slats support ribs W6B and W6C, the slats operating brass tube and the sub ribs it is attached to (W7Band W9B which Ihave prepared in advance), the front 1/4" sheet LE and the sub rib W5B which will contain the wheel.

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Eran, I have the "one summer 2 109" dvd and it's has the best footage I've seen, I also play it regulary along with the Battle of Britain" when wife is not home!
Yes the Tempest is a grat airplane with plenty of nose room, unlike the Hurri.. but first I have to finish the 152 and 190 comittments.
BUild is looking great, just make sure as you add parts to the structure, it continues to be straight and true. Until you sheet the top, it is still fragile.
The slat installation is challenging I reckon, but makes a whole lot of difference when done. This was one of the main reasons I took the effort to scratch build a new kit, there was no other kit that offered working slats.

Cheers,

JG

erans

The slats are the part that cause me most of the head scratching... As I mentioned before, my machining skills are very limited, and Iam yet to think of a simple solution to drive the slats out with the two push-rods. Imay delay a decision until the light bulb will light up over my head...

I have also found out that the local distributor run out of MVVS30cc engines... The good news is that he think the next lot will be available in two weeks, so Ihave asked him to reserve one for me.
I am also looking at getting new transmitter as my trusty Spektrum DX7 will not have anywhere near enough channels. Iam looking at the JR11X and hoping that Spektrum will save me and come out with something equivalent before I make the purchase (Iam very happy with my current Spektrum gear). Iwill be using the Spektrum 12 channel receiver in the Me-109. The other option is the JR 12 channel transmitter, but it is very expensive for that extra channel...

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Eran,

I don't have machining skills either. The torque rod solution is very old and only requires a drill press. I think is pretty simple unless you want the slats independent of the flaps.
By the way I only used 6 channels in my radio to fly the 109.

JG

erans

Jose - Even drill press is probably too much. What Iam going to experiment with is CF rod and drilled horns so the CF rod pass through them. The horns will be then glued to the CF rod. Iwill check how strong it is...

This is my count so far...
1. Elevator
2. Rudder
3-4. Ailerons (My preferred setup on separate channels)
5. Throttle
6. Engine Kill Switch
7. Chock - (I may be able to get away with this one if I can access the carburator with my finger)
8. Flaps
9. Retracts
10. Slats (yet to be decided if separate operation to flaps, depends on experiment above)
11. Tail wheel steering if on separate servo (I may be able to get away with this one)

Cheers,
Eran

erans

Some more work on the left wing today, almost ready to be taken off the building board.

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

Looking good erans, so it's still too cold to go outside down there?
Will it be ready to take to KAMS warbird day in April? Do you attend?

Watching with interest.

Brad

erans

Hi Brad
In Perth it is never too cold to get out and fly... It is many times too windy Seeing that you are from Port Hedland, anything under 30 is too cold to fly, isn't it?
At the moment we have almost perfect weather, 21-25 degrees Celsius and perfect blue sky. The problem is that I am so excited to have time to build that I prefer to do it then to fly (I will be flying on Sunday which is my "normal" flying day).

Funny that you mentioned the KAMS warbirds day, Iwas planning to go for the past 3-4 years now, every year something came up which prevented me from going (not to mention that I have crashed on test flight the only warbird I ever owned). Iam currently not aiming at any specific date, as my building time will be dictated by my future work and my 4 years old daughter. Few of my club members said that they will go to KAMS this year, so maybe this year is the year to go.

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

I was there a couple of years ago as a spectator/helper and loved it.
I will attend and fly one year.

Cheers man, I'll be watching.

Brad

erans

A bit of a slow day today. I had to make sure that rib W1 is glued in the correct angle on the left wing. Do establish this, I have attached the wings using clamps, matched the two W1 ribs in the correct angle and glued it to the spars of the left wing. Then, all that was left was to glue the TEof the centre section of the left wing. Now it is time to sand the LEfor me, a task I hate, so Iwill delay it...
If you follow Jose's build, the next stage, assuming the LEis sanded, is to glue the cured fibreglass to the top of the wings. Since Iam new to this covering system, Iwill construct the ailerons first and do my Fliteskin debut on them (much smaller part to re-construct if Iget it wrong...)

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Keep up the excellent job Eran, I agree starting with flaps will give you a good feeling about working with fliteskin. Remember to use the gauges to have the correct twist.

Attached pic of the rudder pull pull location.

JG

erans

Thank you Jose.
Did you got the cables out of the fuselage from the "blister" I have circled in my picture? Any chance to see that in a picture and, if accessible, the picture of the rudder servo in the fuselage?

It looks to me that to get the pull-pull cables through these blisters, the rudder servo must be located quite deep into the tail (1/3 tail length in from the cockpit?)...

Eran

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Eran
if you look carefully at the pic, the pull-pull wires are below the blisters. The plans show the location of the rudder horns. The servos in my airplane were in front of the cockpit with the pull-pull wires going through it.
The elevator servo wasn the only one mounted just behind the pilot back seat in a separate servo tray, with the push rod going direct to the elevator horn inside the fin.

JG

erans

Thank you Jose, appreciated.

I am not building this weekend. I am spending some time with my family. Iwill be back at the build tomorrow.
I have done some shopping for the aeroplane. Ihave ordered the wrap-around muffler from Bisson which Ihope will not protdrude too much. Ihave also placed an order with Tower-Hobbies for bits and pieces and an order for Jet-Tronic retracts valve (which Ihope will fit in the space in the wing) which Iprefer on the mechanical valve supplied (solenoide operated directly from the receiver without a servo)
I did went to my airfield today to fly my SU-31 and get the thumbs going... We have perfect weather at the moment.
Eran

erans

After few delays this morning, and fully motivated, I sat to build the left aileron.
Iwas following the build on the jig as shown on the photos in Casey's build. However, it didn't work for me.

I got so frustrated that I had to stop working and get away from the aeroplane before I damage it from frustration. For the life of me Icannot figure out how to get it done on the jig. Icould not figure out if Isupposed to glue the Fliteskin to the bottom of the ribs as Igo (which will be impossible on the jig to my opinion) or should I complete construction of the wood parts, sand the LE's and then glue the Fliteskin first to the top of the aileron which is what I was trying to do.
To add to it, it seems that parts A7 to A10 are of the wrong length, or, Icannot figure out how the construction should be done using these parts. Iended adding third LEto the length of the aileron (the plan only show third 1/4" sheet between A7 and A8). The final strew, was the sanding, when the ribs (only glued at their LE)broke off...

I think Iwill end up making my own ribs in what I believe is correct length, Iwill need to construct flat surface with the correct twist to work on...

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Erans,

the jigs are there only to help set the twist when you glue the top sheet of the aileron. Build the aileron flat on the board with ribs, leading edge, etc. Tape the top sheet T.E to the bottom T.E (masking tape) , put the jigs under and glue the top with Gorilla glue. It take about 30 min. for each aileron. Flap is build same way.
JG