Bates 106" B-26 Marauder build
05-15-2012, 04:34 PM
#251
RE: Bates 106
Assembly (cont)
Main gear/doors.
The UP2 valve was leaking air which, 99 out of 100, means I have a leak in the system.
The leak only occurred on gear up so I clamped different air lines and it looks like the air cylinders are leaking. These are used retracts so it's expected.
I used a robart 195G repair kit.
I did one cylinder at a time of the two on each gear.
One end of the air cylinder unscrews.
There are three O rings to replace. Two are easy; the third is for the shaft which means unscrewing the end off the shaft. I had to put masking tape on the shaft and use my vise with the soft nylon clamps on the vise (the easiest way for me to remove the end without scratching the shaft). The supplied grease was applied to the O rings after all the parts were cleaned with a dry cotton cloth.
Testing:
Everything was put back together and I set up the double large air cylinders and fill/pressure gauges. A heat gun was used to soften the air lines so they are easier to slip over the T fittings. The first test was done without the doors attached.
The adjusting screws on the UP valve needed adjusting and all is working well.
Main gear/door test video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLAuR...ature=youtu.be
Main gear/doors.
The UP2 valve was leaking air which, 99 out of 100, means I have a leak in the system.
The leak only occurred on gear up so I clamped different air lines and it looks like the air cylinders are leaking. These are used retracts so it's expected.
I used a robart 195G repair kit.
I did one cylinder at a time of the two on each gear.
One end of the air cylinder unscrews.
There are three O rings to replace. Two are easy; the third is for the shaft which means unscrewing the end off the shaft. I had to put masking tape on the shaft and use my vise with the soft nylon clamps on the vise (the easiest way for me to remove the end without scratching the shaft). The supplied grease was applied to the O rings after all the parts were cleaned with a dry cotton cloth.
Testing:
Everything was put back together and I set up the double large air cylinders and fill/pressure gauges. A heat gun was used to soften the air lines so they are easier to slip over the T fittings. The first test was done without the doors attached.
The adjusting screws on the UP valve needed adjusting and all is working well.
Main gear/door test video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLAuR...ature=youtu.be
05-16-2012, 05:19 AM
#253
RE: Bates 106
I checked, the plane that is up there is also a Bates 106. My fried is intrigued with the tape method you are using. How well is it going to hold up to fuel?
05-22-2012, 12:56 PM
#255
RE: Bates 106
Happened to come across this video of Paul's B-26: a 'little' bigger than mine with two DA-100's.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sclqk...endscreen&NR=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sclqk...endscreen&NR=1
05-28-2012, 07:16 AM
#256
RE: Bates 106
Fuse (cont)
There's lots of work to do, yet, on the fuse.
I jacked the fuse on the table with formed foam board and 2X4's so the wheels just miss touching the table.
Route wires:
I cut some slots in the formers that are at each end of the wing for wires/air lines.
It looks like the wing should clear the wires when the front of the wing is first rotated up, should the wing need to be removed.
Top Turret:
The diameter of the turret is 4 3/4" so I found the center on the fuse and used a compass to make where I think the cut is needed plus +/- 1/16" circle on the fuse as well as the ply base for the turret.
The ply was cut on the +1/16" side for the turret and on the -1/16" on the hole in the fuse (When cutting, it's always easier to remove than add material!).
A scroll saw and oscillating belt sander was used on the turret ply.
I used a sharp xacto blade to cut the hole in the fuse and then used a rolled piece of sandpaper to gently sand the fuse diameter hole to match the turret.
Later, I'll have to make the fuse hole a little larger since it seems some 1/64" thick ply would make a good 'liner'.
I also plan to make the turret rotate using a servo.
There's lots of work to do, yet, on the fuse.
I jacked the fuse on the table with formed foam board and 2X4's so the wheels just miss touching the table.
Route wires:
I cut some slots in the formers that are at each end of the wing for wires/air lines.
It looks like the wing should clear the wires when the front of the wing is first rotated up, should the wing need to be removed.
Top Turret:
The diameter of the turret is 4 3/4" so I found the center on the fuse and used a compass to make where I think the cut is needed plus +/- 1/16" circle on the fuse as well as the ply base for the turret.
The ply was cut on the +1/16" side for the turret and on the -1/16" on the hole in the fuse (When cutting, it's always easier to remove than add material!).
A scroll saw and oscillating belt sander was used on the turret ply.
I used a sharp xacto blade to cut the hole in the fuse and then used a rolled piece of sandpaper to gently sand the fuse diameter hole to match the turret.
Later, I'll have to make the fuse hole a little larger since it seems some 1/64" thick ply would make a good 'liner'.
I also plan to make the turret rotate using a servo.
05-28-2012, 12:20 PM
#257
RE: Bates 106
Fuse (cont)
Power/ extension wires:
Since the batteries are up front and about 3' away from the receiver in the center of the wing, I used some 18 gauge wire and deans connectors.
In the picture, the center extension is for the elevator.
The far right extension is a 3-way: one to the nose gear steering, and half way back, the extension Y's for the rudder and functional turret.
I need to 'double up' on functions (turret/rudder) since I'm also having bomb bay doors and bomb drops.
Dry fit test:
Plenty of rudder.
Elevators set up for more up than down throw.
The turret servo is a hitec hsr-1425cr robotic servo: It's rotating at a toy like speed of about one revolution per second. Presently, I'm thinking of 'cutting in' a variable pot on the red wire to the turret servo to slow it down.
The two batteries are all the way in the nose: not sure if I can keep them there after I install the nose cockpit detail. The nose gear servo is an HS-645 and is functioning.
Power/ extension wires:
Since the batteries are up front and about 3' away from the receiver in the center of the wing, I used some 18 gauge wire and deans connectors.
In the picture, the center extension is for the elevator.
The far right extension is a 3-way: one to the nose gear steering, and half way back, the extension Y's for the rudder and functional turret.
I need to 'double up' on functions (turret/rudder) since I'm also having bomb bay doors and bomb drops.
Dry fit test:
Plenty of rudder.
Elevators set up for more up than down throw.
The turret servo is a hitec hsr-1425cr robotic servo: It's rotating at a toy like speed of about one revolution per second. Presently, I'm thinking of 'cutting in' a variable pot on the red wire to the turret servo to slow it down.
The two batteries are all the way in the nose: not sure if I can keep them there after I install the nose cockpit detail. The nose gear servo is an HS-645 and is functioning.
05-28-2012, 03:37 PM
#258
RE: Bates 106
Fuse (cont)
Dry test of functional turret:
Used #0X3/16" wood screws to hold the lite ply to the plastic turret.
Video of dry run:
(felt tip arrow on clear plastic to see rotation)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8criP...ature=youtu.be
Dry test of functional turret:
Used #0X3/16" wood screws to hold the lite ply to the plastic turret.
Video of dry run:
(felt tip arrow on clear plastic to see rotation)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8criP...ature=youtu.be
05-29-2012, 01:17 PM
#259
RE: Bates 106
Fuse (cont)
Not much done, today: had other stuff to do.
Dbalsa cockpit:
Painted the major parts either green or black.
Receiver:
I set up the receiver to insure I had enough 'levers' on the transmitter to handle everything.
I got a power safe 12 channel receiver for the JR 11X.
Just managed to get everything on the transmitter and have toggles/levers for everything.
First five channels assigned to the usual stuff: throttle, ailerons, elevator, rudder, gear.
Aux 1: flaps
Aux 2: (mix 2) slave throttle (left engine)
Aux 3: choke (left bottom lever)
Aux 4: bomb drop (top front left toggle: F. Mode)
Aux 5: brakes (top front right: RD D/R): Mix 4, slaved to UP elevator
Aux 6: bomb bay doors (top front right: Mix HLD)
Aux 7: not usuable (channel 12)
Of the aux channels, I kept the two important ones on the left side (left hand operated):
choke: backup to throttle failure at max rpm's
bomb drop: I'll have to reach across with the left hand to open the doors with the toggle on the right (not critical on when done) versus using the left hand to drop the bombs at 'show center'.
(For what's comfortable for me, the 'elevator' hand always stays on the elevator).
Not much done, today: had other stuff to do.
Dbalsa cockpit:
Painted the major parts either green or black.
Receiver:
I set up the receiver to insure I had enough 'levers' on the transmitter to handle everything.
I got a power safe 12 channel receiver for the JR 11X.
Just managed to get everything on the transmitter and have toggles/levers for everything.
First five channels assigned to the usual stuff: throttle, ailerons, elevator, rudder, gear.
Aux 1: flaps
Aux 2: (mix 2) slave throttle (left engine)
Aux 3: choke (left bottom lever)
Aux 4: bomb drop (top front left toggle: F. Mode)
Aux 5: brakes (top front right: RD D/R): Mix 4, slaved to UP elevator
Aux 6: bomb bay doors (top front right: Mix HLD)
Aux 7: not usuable (channel 12)
Of the aux channels, I kept the two important ones on the left side (left hand operated):
choke: backup to throttle failure at max rpm's
bomb drop: I'll have to reach across with the left hand to open the doors with the toggle on the right (not critical on when done) versus using the left hand to drop the bombs at 'show center'.
(For what's comfortable for me, the 'elevator' hand always stays on the elevator).
05-30-2012, 02:14 PM
#260
RE: Bates 106
Fuse (cont)
Switch door
Initially, I was going to put the door on the top of the fuse, behind the cockpit but the three large air tanks are located high on the fuse and they may interfere with each other, so I put the door on the side of the fuse.
First , the panel was created so I could compute how large to make the door.
The door was made from 1/32" thick ply (plus a 1/4" extra around the perimeter to re-enforce the balsa surface).
Some epoxy was buttered on the back of the ply and masking tape was used to secure the ply until the epoxy cured.
A double cut off disk was sandwiched together to cut the hinge side of the door to allow room for the raised center of the piano hinge.
The piano hinge was screwed to the door and fuse and then the remaining three sides were cut using a diamond impregnated, metal cut off disk. A backless razor saw was used to finish up the corners.
The panel was dry fitted behind the door.
Two sets of air fill/pressure gauges for gear and bomb bay doors/brakes.
The soft switch between the gauges for the double batteries totaling 8400 ma's.
Below the gauges are the two charging jacks for the batteries.
The next switch is to check the voltwatch (I like visual confirmation).
The hole for the last switch is for the landing lights and nav lights.
Switch door
Initially, I was going to put the door on the top of the fuse, behind the cockpit but the three large air tanks are located high on the fuse and they may interfere with each other, so I put the door on the side of the fuse.
First , the panel was created so I could compute how large to make the door.
The door was made from 1/32" thick ply (plus a 1/4" extra around the perimeter to re-enforce the balsa surface).
Some epoxy was buttered on the back of the ply and masking tape was used to secure the ply until the epoxy cured.
A double cut off disk was sandwiched together to cut the hinge side of the door to allow room for the raised center of the piano hinge.
The piano hinge was screwed to the door and fuse and then the remaining three sides were cut using a diamond impregnated, metal cut off disk. A backless razor saw was used to finish up the corners.
The panel was dry fitted behind the door.
Two sets of air fill/pressure gauges for gear and bomb bay doors/brakes.
The soft switch between the gauges for the double batteries totaling 8400 ma's.
Below the gauges are the two charging jacks for the batteries.
The next switch is to check the voltwatch (I like visual confirmation).
The hole for the last switch is for the landing lights and nav lights.
06-15-2012, 07:36 AM
#261
RE: Bates 106
nav/landing lights
I had to attach the nav light wires for the vertical fin to a piano wire to get it through the CF tube that ends about 2" from the top of the fin.
Since the switch panel is on the side of the fuse, electrical connections had to be made to all the nav/landing light wires.
All the bulbs are incandescent: I'm hoping these show up better at the field as my LED's on other planes, do not show up well. The negative is 'juice' is drained faster but six (9 volts) AA batteries should last awhile. I still need to cut into the landing light wire and route it to a micro switch activated by the gear servo arm.
It's been a little slow finishing up this build: with the flying season now in 'full gear', prep'ing up to six planes for the following week end's flyin takes some time.
I had to attach the nav light wires for the vertical fin to a piano wire to get it through the CF tube that ends about 2" from the top of the fin.
Since the switch panel is on the side of the fuse, electrical connections had to be made to all the nav/landing light wires.
All the bulbs are incandescent: I'm hoping these show up better at the field as my LED's on other planes, do not show up well. The negative is 'juice' is drained faster but six (9 volts) AA batteries should last awhile. I still need to cut into the landing light wire and route it to a micro switch activated by the gear servo arm.
It's been a little slow finishing up this build: with the flying season now in 'full gear', prep'ing up to six planes for the following week end's flyin takes some time.
06-15-2012, 12:11 PM
#263
RE: Bates 106
ACdii,
I'm using Ram products. I think it would be an easy mod on an already flying model. You can cut a new hatch in the bottom of the wing for wire access.
===========
Priming fuse for panel lines.
I was going to install all the parts on the fuse to insure all's working (and then remove everything) before priming the fuse but it dawned on me that, with aluminum foil being applied in pieces versus painting the whole fuse, I can prime, apply aluminum tape on finished areas and delay applying tape that needs adjustments, canopy, bomb bay doors, turret area, etc.: progress will be must faster.
Using my books, all the panel lines for the fuse were added using 1/32" wide chart tape and primed with 2-part primer. All surfaces were primed and then all the panel lines (ie chart tape) got 2-3 extra coats of primer. Besides the fuse, the bomb bay doors, nose doors, switch door and top wing hatch also were primed.
I'm using Ram products. I think it would be an easy mod on an already flying model. You can cut a new hatch in the bottom of the wing for wire access.
===========
Priming fuse for panel lines.
I was going to install all the parts on the fuse to insure all's working (and then remove everything) before priming the fuse but it dawned on me that, with aluminum foil being applied in pieces versus painting the whole fuse, I can prime, apply aluminum tape on finished areas and delay applying tape that needs adjustments, canopy, bomb bay doors, turret area, etc.: progress will be must faster.
Using my books, all the panel lines for the fuse were added using 1/32" wide chart tape and primed with 2-part primer. All surfaces were primed and then all the panel lines (ie chart tape) got 2-3 extra coats of primer. Besides the fuse, the bomb bay doors, nose doors, switch door and top wing hatch also were primed.
06-16-2012, 10:43 PM
#265
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: herveybay, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 304
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RE: Bates 106
ORIGINAL: samparfitt
Interior painted.
I painted all interiors that will be visible with 'primer' green.
Some wet sanding will be next to reveal the panel lines.
Interior painted.
I painted all interiors that will be visible with 'primer' green.
Some wet sanding will be next to reveal the panel lines.
REGARDS
JOHN
06-17-2012, 02:23 AM
#266
RE: Bates 106
John,
I don't claim to be an expert on this but, on my limited experience, it seems to be OK to CA laser cut parts. I say limited because I just about, exclusively, use carpenters glue to secure parts together.
On parts that sometimes need to be assembled vertically to the table, ie rudder, elevators, I'll use CA but will go back and re-enforce the joint with a dab of carpenter's glue or epoxy.
What I do is 'over kill' in that I worry about a secure joint using CA since the joint needs to be a tight fit and all my joints do not always follow that pattern so I add additional glue.
I have no hard facts on my builds but they are usually heavy but they also seem to be very durable: I've done some dumb things while flying and the plane seems to hold up remarkably well, compared to other pilot's mistakes.
I don't claim to be a structural engineer and maybe these joints are a small percentage of the total strength of the structure when you count in the exoskeleton making up the sheeting, fiberglass cloth and resin. I kind of follow iron works grumman's aircraft philosophy for bringing back their pilots in their planes and able to take aircraft carrier landings.
I guess a good test would be to CA a couple laser cut scrap pieces together and 'bench test' it's strength and then base your decisions on that.
I've always liked the looks of the vampire: very nice 'lines'.
I don't claim to be an expert on this but, on my limited experience, it seems to be OK to CA laser cut parts. I say limited because I just about, exclusively, use carpenters glue to secure parts together.
On parts that sometimes need to be assembled vertically to the table, ie rudder, elevators, I'll use CA but will go back and re-enforce the joint with a dab of carpenter's glue or epoxy.
What I do is 'over kill' in that I worry about a secure joint using CA since the joint needs to be a tight fit and all my joints do not always follow that pattern so I add additional glue.
I have no hard facts on my builds but they are usually heavy but they also seem to be very durable: I've done some dumb things while flying and the plane seems to hold up remarkably well, compared to other pilot's mistakes.
I don't claim to be a structural engineer and maybe these joints are a small percentage of the total strength of the structure when you count in the exoskeleton making up the sheeting, fiberglass cloth and resin. I kind of follow iron works grumman's aircraft philosophy for bringing back their pilots in their planes and able to take aircraft carrier landings.
I guess a good test would be to CA a couple laser cut scrap pieces together and 'bench test' it's strength and then base your decisions on that.
I've always liked the looks of the vampire: very nice 'lines'.
06-17-2012, 07:31 AM
#268
RE: Bates 106
ORIGINAL: DENTO
G-DAY Sam all is looking good as usual ,Sam I have a vampire short kit that I am just about to start ,The laser cuts do they need sanding just a little or a lot ,There seems to be different thoughts on this and deing relatively new to laser kits its something I,am not sure of and would be gratefull for some info.
REGARDS
JOHN
ORIGINAL: samparfitt
Interior painted.
I painted all interiors that will be visible with 'primer' green.
Some wet sanding will be next to reveal the panel lines.
Interior painted.
I painted all interiors that will be visible with 'primer' green.
Some wet sanding will be next to reveal the panel lines.
REGARDS
JOHN
06-17-2012, 09:34 AM
#270
RE: Bates 106
acdii,
By hand since the whole fuse is a compound curve. The only thing I put under the sand paper is a green 3M plastic sanding pad to help, evenly, distribute hand pressure.
====================
fuse:
The chart tape was removed after sanding to reveal the panel lines.
Pencil lines were then drawn onto the fuse to locate all the needed rivets that go on each panel.
Aluminum foil tape.
As previously mentioned, I use the tape from home depot.
I started on the bottom to get my 'learning curve' back to par.
Since the fuse is a compound curve, it's fortunate that each row of rivets is fairly close to each other that connect to each 'former', as compound curves cause the long edge of the tape to bend and not be exactly straight. The tape is overlapped by a 1/16" where the rivets are located to hide the edge of the tape. As I do each panel, I add the rivets using a sharpened piece of brass tubing.
By hand since the whole fuse is a compound curve. The only thing I put under the sand paper is a green 3M plastic sanding pad to help, evenly, distribute hand pressure.
====================
fuse:
The chart tape was removed after sanding to reveal the panel lines.
Pencil lines were then drawn onto the fuse to locate all the needed rivets that go on each panel.
Aluminum foil tape.
As previously mentioned, I use the tape from home depot.
I started on the bottom to get my 'learning curve' back to par.
Since the fuse is a compound curve, it's fortunate that each row of rivets is fairly close to each other that connect to each 'former', as compound curves cause the long edge of the tape to bend and not be exactly straight. The tape is overlapped by a 1/16" where the rivets are located to hide the edge of the tape. As I do each panel, I add the rivets using a sharpened piece of brass tubing.
06-17-2012, 01:34 PM
#271
RE: Bates 106
aluminum foil tape (cont)
Got most of the bottom done.
With the compound curves, the tape can overlap as much as an 1/8" by just 2-3" up the side of the fuse. Cutting all these different sizes must have been a lot of work for the builder. I'm 'cheating' and just letting the tape overlap more at the bottom, center. I can see why Grumman made their fuse sides flat: might not be pretty but it's functional and quick.
Got most of the bottom done.
With the compound curves, the tape can overlap as much as an 1/8" by just 2-3" up the side of the fuse. Cutting all these different sizes must have been a lot of work for the builder. I'm 'cheating' and just letting the tape overlap more at the bottom, center. I can see why Grumman made their fuse sides flat: might not be pretty but it's functional and quick.
06-17-2012, 02:32 PM
#272
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: herveybay, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
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RE: Bates 106
ORIGINAL: samparfitt
John,
I don't claim to be an expert on this but, on my limited experience, it seems to be OK to CA laser cut parts. I say limited because I just about, exclusively, use carpenters glue to secure parts together.
On parts that sometimes need to be assembled vertically to the table, ie rudder, elevators, I'll use CA but will go back and re-enforce the joint with a dab of carpenter's glue or epoxy.
What I do is 'over kill' in that I worry about a secure joint using CA since the joint needs to be a tight fit and all my joints do not always follow that pattern so I add additional glue.
I have no hard facts on my builds but they are usually heavy but they also seem to be very durable: I've done some dumb things while flying and the plane seems to hold up remarkably well, compared to other pilot's mistakes.
I don't claim to be a structural engineer and maybe these joints are a small percentage of the total strength of the structure when you count in the exoskeleton making up the sheeting, fiberglass cloth and resin. I kind of follow iron works grumman's aircraft philosophy for bringing back their pilots in their planes and able to take aircraft carrier landings.
I guess a good test would be to CA a couple laser cut scrap pieces together and 'bench test' it's strength and then base your decisions on that.
I've always liked the looks of the vampire: very nice 'lines'.
John,
I don't claim to be an expert on this but, on my limited experience, it seems to be OK to CA laser cut parts. I say limited because I just about, exclusively, use carpenters glue to secure parts together.
On parts that sometimes need to be assembled vertically to the table, ie rudder, elevators, I'll use CA but will go back and re-enforce the joint with a dab of carpenter's glue or epoxy.
What I do is 'over kill' in that I worry about a secure joint using CA since the joint needs to be a tight fit and all my joints do not always follow that pattern so I add additional glue.
I have no hard facts on my builds but they are usually heavy but they also seem to be very durable: I've done some dumb things while flying and the plane seems to hold up remarkably well, compared to other pilot's mistakes.
I don't claim to be a structural engineer and maybe these joints are a small percentage of the total strength of the structure when you count in the exoskeleton making up the sheeting, fiberglass cloth and resin. I kind of follow iron works grumman's aircraft philosophy for bringing back their pilots in their planes and able to take aircraft carrier landings.
I guess a good test would be to CA a couple laser cut scrap pieces together and 'bench test' it's strength and then base your decisions on that.
I've always liked the looks of the vampire: very nice 'lines'.
THANKS also to ACDii.
REGARDS
JOHN
06-17-2012, 06:02 PM
#273
RE: Bates 106
If you think putting the tape on is bad, should try skinning a real B-17! The nose section is next and has compound curves in it, about the only part of the plane that does, the rest of the fuse has a gradual taper, so the skins are easy. We are using a french wheel to impart the curves to the skin panel, otherwise they wrinkle. Each panel is two stringers wide, and run about 12" down to 6" from the rear of bulkhead 3 to the nose frame.
I feel your pain! LOL
I feel your pain! LOL
06-18-2012, 07:13 AM
#275
RE: Bates 106
acdii,
cool. Forming metal around compound curves is becoming a lost art.
===
Yo Scott,
Me too. I really like the profile of the B-26.
========
Aluminum foil (cont)
Covering a narrow panel (pics 1-3):
I hold the two tips of the aluminum tape and eye ball one long edge of the tape over the adjacent panel line; secure that edge down and then 'finger work' from the center out, the remaining tape.
I also use a stump blender and bondo applicator for securing the tape to the surface.
The bondo applicator's corner is used to indent the tape into the panel line and then an xacto #11 blade is used to remove any waste. Finally, a brass tube is used to eye ball the rivets into the tape.
Covering a panel requiring more than one width of tape (pics 4-8):
On a compound curve, first I lay the tape over the area to be covered with a 1/16" past where the two center edges of the tape will be and draw a pencil line for reference. The edge of the tape is then laid over the reference line, secured, tape indented into the panel lines and waste removed.
The next piece of tape is laid over the center and another reference line is penciled a 1/16" in from the previous laid tape. The second piece can then be applied, secured, indented in the panel lines and excess waste cut off and finally, rivets added to this panel.
cool. Forming metal around compound curves is becoming a lost art.
===
Yo Scott,
Me too. I really like the profile of the B-26.
========
Aluminum foil (cont)
Covering a narrow panel (pics 1-3):
I hold the two tips of the aluminum tape and eye ball one long edge of the tape over the adjacent panel line; secure that edge down and then 'finger work' from the center out, the remaining tape.
I also use a stump blender and bondo applicator for securing the tape to the surface.
The bondo applicator's corner is used to indent the tape into the panel line and then an xacto #11 blade is used to remove any waste. Finally, a brass tube is used to eye ball the rivets into the tape.
Covering a panel requiring more than one width of tape (pics 4-8):
On a compound curve, first I lay the tape over the area to be covered with a 1/16" past where the two center edges of the tape will be and draw a pencil line for reference. The edge of the tape is then laid over the reference line, secured, tape indented into the panel lines and waste removed.
The next piece of tape is laid over the center and another reference line is penciled a 1/16" in from the previous laid tape. The second piece can then be applied, secured, indented in the panel lines and excess waste cut off and finally, rivets added to this panel.