TF FW190 GIANT ARF
05-30-2014, 11:36 AM
#2951
For most planes toe-in helps with steering stability. Because of the angle of the gear any toe in on the 190 can cause the wheels to tuck under and amplify the affects of the ground loop. From my experience so far there is no doubt in my mind, toe-out is much better than toe-in on the Top Flite FW-190.
Last edited by Hot Rod Todd; 05-30-2014 at 12:50 PM.
05-30-2014, 12:34 PM
#2953
Another anology I use that helps visualize the toe out benefit is from racing 1/8 or 1/10 scale buggies. Toe out gives another added benefit besides helping calm the front end down with a little drag. When jumping with toe out if the landing angle is less than perfect then the first front wheel to touch down will pull the car outward and help level the car. If it had toe in under the same circumstance then the car trips over that wheel and rolls over. Of course if the camber angle exceeds +5 degrees it probably wont matter as the mass is now over the contact patch and the car will probably roll over.
On any of my warbirds and planes Ive helped set up for guys Ive added toe out and they work great. Just try it for yourself and see. It will make landings easier and smoother than before.
On any of my warbirds and planes Ive helped set up for guys Ive added toe out and they work great. Just try it for yourself and see. It will make landings easier and smoother than before.
05-31-2014, 04:38 PM
#2956
Today my buddy nearly lost his FW when the right aileron plate lost the two front screws in flight. The plate flexed backward and caused the right ail to go up and the plane was doing the downward death spiral. He backed off power dropped gear and put in opposite controls to regain control. It worked and he brought it back on final to land. He touched down with a little bounce and since he was pretty much maxed out on the controls he couldn't do much else so the FW bounced and cartwheeled.
So, just FYI, check your servo mount plate hardware often to prevent this from happening to you. He was using the stock hardware.
Broken wing gear mount and blew out the rear fuse wing mount and bulkhead, cowl, prop, etc.
Also, the electric Robart gear worked the first flight then the right gear wouldn't lock in the up position on the second flight. Im still not a fan of the electric set up and my air system has still performed flawless for over 35 flights.
So, just FYI, check your servo mount plate hardware often to prevent this from happening to you. He was using the stock hardware.
Broken wing gear mount and blew out the rear fuse wing mount and bulkhead, cowl, prop, etc.
Also, the electric Robart gear worked the first flight then the right gear wouldn't lock in the up position on the second flight. Im still not a fan of the electric set up and my air system has still performed flawless for over 35 flights.
05-31-2014, 05:33 PM
#2957
My Feedback: (13)
Today my buddy nearly lost his FW when the right aileron plate lost the two front screws in flight. The plate flexed backward and caused the right ail to go up and the plane was doing the downward death spiral. He backed off power dropped gear and put in opposite controls to regain control. It worked and he brought it back on final to land. He touched down with a little bounce and since he was pretty much maxed out on the controls he couldn't do much else so the FW bounced and cartwheeled.
So, just FYI, check your servo mount plate hardware often to prevent this from happening to you. He was using the stock hardware.
Broken wing gear mount and blew out the rear fuse wing mount and bulkhead, cowl, prop, etc.
Also, the electric Robart gear worked the first flight then the right gear wouldn't lock in the up position on the second flight. Im still not a fan of the electric set up and my air system has still performed flawless for over 35 flights.
So, just FYI, check your servo mount plate hardware often to prevent this from happening to you. He was using the stock hardware.
Broken wing gear mount and blew out the rear fuse wing mount and bulkhead, cowl, prop, etc.
Also, the electric Robart gear worked the first flight then the right gear wouldn't lock in the up position on the second flight. Im still not a fan of the electric set up and my air system has still performed flawless for over 35 flights.
05-31-2014, 11:38 PM
#2958
Today my buddy nearly lost his FW when the right aileron plate lost the two front screws in flight. The plate flexed backward and caused the right ail to go up and the plane was doing the downward death spiral. He backed off power dropped gear and put in opposite controls to regain control. It worked and he brought it back on final to land. He touched down with a little bounce and since he was pretty much maxed out on the controls he couldn't do much else so the FW bounced and cartwheeled.
So, just FYI, check your servo mount plate hardware often to prevent this from happening to you. He was using the stock hardware.
Broken wing gear mount and blew out the rear fuse wing mount and bulkhead, cowl, prop, etc.
Also, the electric Robart gear worked the first flight then the right gear wouldn't lock in the up position on the second flight. Im still not a fan of the electric set up and my air system has still performed flawless for over 35 flights.
So, just FYI, check your servo mount plate hardware often to prevent this from happening to you. He was using the stock hardware.
Broken wing gear mount and blew out the rear fuse wing mount and bulkhead, cowl, prop, etc.
Also, the electric Robart gear worked the first flight then the right gear wouldn't lock in the up position on the second flight. Im still not a fan of the electric set up and my air system has still performed flawless for over 35 flights.
Regarding both Air and Electrics, and the Williams Brothers 12200 wheels;
The Williams 12200 wheels are thicker than the stock ones.
So on mine, the wheels started to press against the bottom oft he wheel well.
This means that the oleo can get stuck in the up-lock position. Somethimes, a bit randomly , one wheel didnt come out.
Belly landing.
So, to avoid this, I made a 2 mm plate of aluminium with the 3 screw holes in it, and used it as a shims for the gear mount.
The wheels should really be moveable when in up position.
Last edited by kwik; 05-31-2014 at 11:43 PM.
06-01-2014, 08:27 AM
#2959
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Sault Ste Marieont, CANADA
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I just picked up a set pf Williams Bros 14600 wheels for my FW,I see on the package that the covers snap on and off and that one can drill a 1/16" hole on the other side to help push it off on the other.Has anyone else tried this?I cant seem to get the cover off...I also got my electric retracts back from Down and Locked and they work fine,One of the motors was done and they did some upgrades 
Last edited by SteveD-RCU; 06-01-2014 at 08:29 AM.
06-01-2014, 05:10 PM
#2960
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ladera Ranch, CA
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in a recent post someone wrote to check the wing servo hatches. I haven't ever and went flyin today w/o looking. Had three flight today and loved every minute of it. When I went to pack my FW in the truck I saw the left wing aileron servo hatch had only 1 screw in it and was flopping around on there... scared the ***** out of me. I'm gonna go through the entire bird and check 'em all tonight...
New rule: Pre-flight the entire bird the night before and before each flight. No more gas, air, and fly for me without checking over the plane!
New rule: Pre-flight the entire bird the night before and before each flight. No more gas, air, and fly for me without checking over the plane!
06-01-2014, 05:19 PM
#2961
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA
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I screw my servos in, then take each screw out one at a time and apply a tiny drop of CA into the screw hole, then put the screw in again.
Seems to hold 'em in nice n tight
"Loctite" for Balsa
BJ
Seems to hold 'em in nice n tight
"Loctite" for Balsa
BJ
06-02-2014, 08:03 AM
#2964
I do the same thing. Have don this for as long as I've been building.. I remember one of the first kits I built mentioning this method.. I also run a screw or toothpick with CA through the door/hatch cover into the mounting block for the servos bottom which makes the unit one piece. This way that block has a lower chance of separating from the torque or stress.
06-04-2014, 05:24 AM
#2966
Senior Member
SOP for me on any airframe.
I use epoxy to glue the blocks to the hatch in addition to the screws. Again, per the instructions & SOP on any airframe.
06-04-2014, 09:49 AM
#2969
Senior Member
Yes I guess the toothpick & CA might be an extra step, but it just doesn't seem like it would add to the integrity if a full epoxy joint exists over the entire surface between the block & hatch.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 06-04-2014 at 09:55 AM.
06-04-2014, 09:51 AM
#2970
Senior Member
Seems to me that you are the one that has copped an attitude. Just because you might not understand something doesn't make it invalid.
06-04-2014, 12:39 PM
#2972
The hatches on my TF GS FW190 all have 1 screw going through the hatch cover into each if the blocks.
Yes I guess the toothpick & CA might be an extra step, but it just doesn't seem like it would add to the integrity if a full epoxy joint exists over the entire surface between the block & hatch.
Yes I guess the toothpick & CA might be an extra step, but it just doesn't seem like it would add to the integrity if a full epoxy joint exists over the entire surface between the block & hatch.
Last edited by Ramstein44; 06-04-2014 at 02:39 PM.
06-04-2014, 12:47 PM
#2973
