TF FW190 GIANT ARF
10-27-2019, 06:36 AM
#4632
I haven't bought one in a while. I've had 4 and they all had the 68mm standoffs.
I recently removed the DLE-55RA from one of my 190's and installed an EME-70. This is a heavy one, weighing 33 lbs dry. By switching to the twin I was able to loose about .6 lbs because the mass of the twin is farther forward so I could get rid of some lead. Normally the 55RA pulls them around fine, but my heavy version (We call Tank's Tank) could use the extra power, especially on warm days. It was a tight fit, but should be a great match.
I recently removed the DLE-55RA from one of my 190's and installed an EME-70. This is a heavy one, weighing 33 lbs dry. By switching to the twin I was able to loose about .6 lbs because the mass of the twin is farther forward so I could get rid of some lead. Normally the 55RA pulls them around fine, but my heavy version (We call Tank's Tank) could use the extra power, especially on warm days. It was a tight fit, but should be a great match.
10-30-2019, 04:36 PM
#4635
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Location: Jacksonville,
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No luck here
Ground looping all the time
Maybe I am trying to take to long of a take off roll
A more Experienced Warbird Pilot in our club says he has full right rudder in it when taking off my FW 190
??????
Ground looping all the time
Maybe I am trying to take to long of a take off roll
A more Experienced Warbird Pilot in our club says he has full right rudder in it when taking off my FW 190
??????
10-30-2019, 09:51 PM
#4636
Grass or pavement?
Normally I add just enough power so you see the plane speed up and the tail get light then I add more power, ease it in. Once the tail has air on it enough to have authority you should just be able to add power and take off.
What’s your throttle curve like? I have mine set so I have fine adjustments up to 50%, so a shallow start then ramp up. This gives me more throttle control in the bottom half of the stick.
Normally I add just enough power so you see the plane speed up and the tail get light then I add more power, ease it in. Once the tail has air on it enough to have authority you should just be able to add power and take off.
What’s your throttle curve like? I have mine set so I have fine adjustments up to 50%, so a shallow start then ramp up. This gives me more throttle control in the bottom half of the stick.
11-01-2019, 02:37 AM
#4641
My Feedback: (34)
To Roger Russell: I have one of these under construction, but no flight experience with it yet. However, I spoke to two experienced pilots up at Fond Du Lac a year ago about the gear set-up and both said to set the mains with "Toe Out". It seems counter intuitive to me, but they claim this is the answer. It has something to do with the angle of the struts and the wide stance of the gear. I plan to try it when I get to that stage. Also, are you sure that your wheels spin freely, no friction at all? A touch of grease is always a good measure on those axles. Leo
11-01-2019, 05:16 AM
#4642
My Feedback: (9)
While I don't have this one I do have both platt's, esm, and extreme fw190 a & d. assuming you have the wheels parallel to the strut you want zero toe in or toe out in the tail high configuration, if you err do so on the toe in side. the wheels will increase toe in as the tail settles because of the angle of the strut.
the reason they told you to add toe out is to reduce skipping. when the struts bend inward as you taxi until they have enough tension between them to push the wheels back out. another thing to do to improve this is to not use treaded tires.
good luck
Jor
the reason they told you to add toe out is to reduce skipping. when the struts bend inward as you taxi until they have enough tension between them to push the wheels back out. another thing to do to improve this is to not use treaded tires.
good luck
Jor
Last edited by paladin; 11-01-2019 at 05:40 AM.
11-01-2019, 05:19 AM
#4643
There is no doubt that adding some toe out will help with the tendency to ground loop. Even the Germans specified toe out on the full-sized Fw-190 (find a manual, it's there). I would also stay away from the stock wheels. They don't have much side strength, so they will start to tuck under if there is any side load (see the photo). I doubt a Gyro would help much. They work better when there is a more direct connection to control such as with a nose wheel on a jet.
I can also say that it's best to fly the 190 on a day with some head wind. Side wind tends to complicate the issue and get you into a ground loop (mostly during the landing roll out). Grass runways are much better than pavement or fabric. Once you land, keep active on the sticks and don't let your guard down. I've seen plenty of perfect touch downs only to be followed with an ugly ground loop that causes damage. The gear sits tall, and it's the nature of a tall airplane to want to tip. Take it as a challenge to improve your skills, and be careful about flying it on days when the side winds are not favorable.
I can also say that it's best to fly the 190 on a day with some head wind. Side wind tends to complicate the issue and get you into a ground loop (mostly during the landing roll out). Grass runways are much better than pavement or fabric. Once you land, keep active on the sticks and don't let your guard down. I've seen plenty of perfect touch downs only to be followed with an ugly ground loop that causes damage. The gear sits tall, and it's the nature of a tall airplane to want to tip. Take it as a challenge to improve your skills, and be careful about flying it on days when the side winds are not favorable.
11-01-2019, 07:57 AM
#4646
My Feedback: (9)
also moving the wheel axle forward by shimming the aft retract ears is very help full. because the struts are so long it does not take much of a shim. which IDK will work for you because the mounting ears are aft of the pivot point so I cant say the clean location will stay the same. the plane is made for the Robarts so i'm assuming you have them. now we have hit upon why I don't have one of these so I will stop here.
Joe
Last edited by paladin; 11-01-2019 at 08:01 AM.