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TF FW190 GIANT ARF

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TF FW190 GIANT ARF

Old 11-01-2019, 11:09 AM
  #4651  
Lifer
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1/8th to 3/16ths spacers behind the rear of the mounting plates.
Old 11-01-2019, 03:31 PM
  #4652  
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When you look at the top of the wing, gear down, tail on the ground (then tail raised level) you will notice where the axle is relative to the leading edge of the wing. The best position for the axle is to be well forward of the LE when the tail in down and at least even with the LE when the tail is up. This keeps the mass of the plane behind the axle as much as possible to help make it stable. As the axle position moves back the condition gets worse and all the typical problems get worse, nosing over, erratic veering, etc.
Look from the top the side views to get measurements and impressions on what's going on.
Adding a spacer to the back edge of the retract works but pay attention to the retracted position of the wheel too. The struts are like a foot long so a small washer under each screw is a good start then add two and see how it goes.

I usually set the gear/wheel at least parallel to the center line of the plane and then see how much deflection or twist there is in the strut. If the strut it tight then I add more toe out. If the strut is loose then I leave it because the torque of the wheel on the axle and lower leg will be enough of a toe out angle. You're looking at the scissor link for this info.

Also, it should be considered to replace the springs in the Robostruts with softer springs or a dual rate spring. They are made with very stiff springs! Its better to have a dual stage set up common on Yellow AC retracts. Ive made this mod to my planes many times and its so much better than stock.
Old 11-01-2019, 04:41 PM
  #4653  
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Will take all suggestions into consideration

I appreciate all that has replied

Hopefully we have a few flying days left this year in the Midwest

again Thanks and I will try to report back on my results

Roger
Old 11-02-2019, 05:13 PM
  #4654  
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Thumbs up

Roger, Roger!

Old 11-02-2019, 07:39 PM
  #4655  
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Originally Posted by chris nicastro View Post
roger, roger!

what, what
Old 11-04-2019, 06:19 AM
  #4656  
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Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
When you look at the top of the wing, gear down, tail on the ground (then tail raised level) you will notice where the axle is relative to the leading edge of the wing. The best position for the axle is to be well forward of the LE when the tail in down and at least even with the LE when the tail is up. This keeps the mass of the plane behind the axle as much as possible to help make it stable. As the axle position moves back the condition gets worse and all the typical problems get worse, nosing over, erratic veering, etc.
Look from the top the side views to get measurements and impressions on what's going on.
Adding a spacer to the back edge of the retract works but pay attention to the retracted position of the wheel too. The struts are like a foot long so a small washer under each screw is a good start then add two and see how it goes.

I usually set the gear/wheel at least parallel to the center line of the plane and then see how much deflection or twist there is in the strut. If the strut it tight then I add more toe out. If the strut is loose then I leave it because the torque of the wheel on the axle and lower leg will be enough of a toe out angle. You're looking at the scissor link for this info.

Also, it should be considered to replace the springs in the Robostruts with softer springs or a dual rate spring. They are made with very stiff springs! Its better to have a dual stage set up common on Yellow AC retracts. Ive made this mod to my planes many times and its so much better than stock.
+1

an easy test for the spring in the strut is with the plane sitting on it gear lift a wing tip a foot to 18in quickly (of coarse the tail wheel has to be in the air), while some one watches the strut on the ground for movement it should telescope in a bit with the movement. the strut should be sprung to the wt of the plane (2x the wt it, one strut, has to lift). but as a general rule if you bounce a landing you landed to slow, the springs are not dampened like on the man carrying planes so the wing has to be flying to dampen the springs. stall it on like in a 3 point landing can get ugly if it drops any distance to the runway..

Joe
Old 11-04-2019, 06:52 AM
  #4657  
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I put two washers and reset the gear to straight ahead according to the Manuel Will see when weather permits
Old 11-04-2019, 02:01 PM
  #4658  
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Here

Old 11-04-2019, 02:02 PM
  #4659  
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Above is the way the 190 sits with the two washers under back of mounts

THOUGHTS

Did seem to taxi better

Old 11-05-2019, 05:01 PM
  #4660  
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Yes, compared to scale drawings of the full scale plane the wheels are pretty much in the right location. Don't go any further forward.
Taxiing was improved because you increased the wheelbase between the tail wheel and main wheels. Now the plane will be more stable and have better feedback. Try it out and see what you think!
Old 11-05-2019, 05:37 PM
  #4661  
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Yes flew it today even in some crosswind and very manageable

Thanks for all the feedback

Roger
Old 11-06-2019, 06:19 AM
  #4662  
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i'm glade you are having fun now!

Joe
Old 11-06-2019, 08:50 AM
  #4663  
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Thanks Joe

after going through all of this I VAGUELY REMBER my old one may have had washers under the gear, hence why I never fad that problem with it

All good and ready for some better days

Thanks to all the gave suggestions
Old 12-24-2019, 09:39 AM
  #4664  
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Default Removing Monokote

Originally Posted by Chris Nicastro View Post
Roger, Roger!

I would like paint my FW 190. Those who removed the Mono Kote . Can you explain how you removed the covering?
Thanks,
P51Tom
Old 02-18-2020, 05:48 AM
  #4665  
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I bit the bullet, late as usual. Got me this bird, a Saito FG90R3 and a nice Keleo exhaust. Will probably get to at least try a Falcon 3 blade German Prop (23x10).

I'm still undecided at retracts. I really don't want to *******ize the mounts for Sierra, although they look so nice!! I read that folks are happy with the traditional air system by Robart, and some not so happy with the electric version??
Tailwheel I will likely do mechanical just so that I can do the scale like half-action.

Anything else I should keep an eye for? I think nose weight will not be an issue on this one. That 90R3 is HEAVY!

Where can I find a suitable three blade spinner? I can only find a Ziroli 4.5" (as close as it gets so far). I assume the Top RC would be too large, though it fits my Saito alright.

Thanks,
David
Old 02-18-2020, 09:20 PM
  #4666  
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David, according to this link the TOPA1882 3 blade spinner is in stock.

https://www.ogxphvbddesign.xyz/top-f...tem-49637.html
Old 02-19-2020, 06:19 PM
  #4667  
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Originally Posted by ForcesR View Post
David, according to this link the TOPA1882 3 blade spinner is in stock.

https://www.ogxphvbddesign.xyz/top-f...tem-49637.html
Looks very shady though!
Old 02-19-2020, 07:36 PM
  #4668  
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Might be slightly too big ...
https://vqwarbirds.com/product/top-r...blade-spinner/
Old 02-23-2020, 05:56 AM
  #4669  
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Do the Robart Air retract units operate well? Ive read a couple of threads where owners complain electric units are very fragile.
Old 02-25-2020, 07:00 AM
  #4670  
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the only reason I don't have one of these fockewulfs is because our club had a guy like me who only flies warbirds and he had a flop tite p-47 that had air Robarts in it with a shorter strut that the fockewulf and he would come out and fly it till the retract would not work correctly. then put it up till parts came in and do it again.the problems he was having were the structure of the retract would bend with each landing, and his landings were perfect.

im an ME and the design is not optimal, by a long shot! I looked very hard at buying the kit and moding it to fit std retracts, but correcting other engineers mistakes is a terrible way to start!

just my opinion
Joe
Old 02-25-2020, 11:02 AM
  #4671  
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I still have this plane sitting new in box. Have the Sierra 1/5th fw190 retracts too... .
Just haven't gotten around to it. The amount of mod work is of course doable, but, time consuming.
That said, the example ive seen flying at our club flies nice, but the robart retracts are not very strong. Either electric or air(electric having more problems).

​​I've seen the gear bend on just the slightest touch down.

Either put in Sierra's or buy a TopRC and fit Sierra's from the get go.
Old 02-25-2020, 12:37 PM
  #4672  
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Originally Posted by Katniss View Post
I still have this plane sitting new in box. Have the Sierra 1/5th fw190 retracts too... .
Just haven't gotten around to it. The amount of mod work is of course doable, but, time consuming.
That said, the example ive seen flying at our club flies nice, but the robart retracts are not very strong. Either electric or air(electric having more problems).

​​I've seen the gear bend on just the slightest touch down.

Either put in Sierra's or buy a TopRC and fit Sierra's from the get go.
sierra's are exactly where I would have gone!

joe
Old 02-28-2020, 06:10 AM
  #4673  
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If you look back farther in this thread you'll see a lot of discussion about the Robart retracts. Much of the problem was due to an issue where the trunion pins on the retracts were too soft, and would bend easily. A couple years ago Robart started hardening the pins, and since then they are much stronger. Even so, because of the length of the struts there is a lot of leverage when the plane ground loops, and you could damage the gear if it bounces, or rip out the mounts unless they have been improved over stock. Ground handling on grass is much more manageable than fabric or hard surface runways. Spacing the gear ahead is helpful to prevent nose over, but I've never found it to help much for ground looping. The only thing that helps somewhat is to have a bit of toe out to prevent the gear from tucking under (toe out is specified even in the full size 190 manual).
The Sierra modification is a great option, if you want the strongest possible gear. Keep in mind that to do it correctly you should increase the dihedral in the wing. The angles are set for a stock dihedral like on the SisT 190, and the wheels will be angled in if you don't make the change.


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