splinterz25

I said easier way to MAKE THINGS!! I KNOW IT'S EASIER TO JUST GO AND BUY IT!

BUT THAT AINT HAPPEN!

Bruce

splinterz25

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">Well here's how I made the pockets out of the HDPE high density poly ethelene</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">Man this is some tough stuff just check the photos and ask questions that's easier!</span>

Melchizedek

I see by the 2nd photo you notched the poly block, but did you melt thru the remainder with the hot metal. ?
If so could you elaborate ?

There is no way my wife would let me do that kind of work in our living room .
But if she would let me I would.

Kevin

splinterz25

I drilled a series of holes all the way through then the hot steal!

I don't have that problem I can do what ever I want to any more I'm a widdow.
Mine would have killed me just for all of the balsa dust let alone paint fumes and torches!

Bruce
<br type="_moz" />

Melchizedek

Bruce,

Was the hot steal the same thickness as your wire actuator ?
Did the material melt well without oozing ?
Is the material heavy ?
Is the slot snugg enough to prevent flutter and loose enough for smooth operation.

You are one creative dude. Do you use your skills for a living.
Me, I'm a cabinetmaker, in my line of work creativity is a must.
It's a joy to watch a craftsman problem solve.

Kevin

splinterz25

Thank you Kevin ..I was a cabinetmaker custom furniture maker for over 30 years I've worked in just about every meidum that's why it's JACK OF ALL MASTER OF NONE!

I started w/ smaller than the size I need drill bits and the steal was close to the size of the wire I think the photo didn't make it on this site I put a thin shim in the slot and heated the steal up again and pushed through so there was a little bit of play not much or you'll get slop.

This matrial does ooz a bit and it takes a lot of high heat to melt it and this stuff is very tough.

No it's not heavy at all and there is really not much there after you put the opening in.

There's just enough room for the wire to slide w/ out binding but that's it.

that was the easy part now I have to make it all work,

Bruce

splinterz25

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">OKAY I HAVE A QUESTION FOR YOU ELECTRIC WIZARDS OUT THERE!!</span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; "></span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">If I have two of the same RX w/ the same Ch and hook up one half of the servos to each will this work?</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">or will there be a difference in the reaction time to the servos?</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">what I'm trying to do is keep the wiring as simple as possible, the right side separate from the left.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">The other thing I thought of was some kind of a gang plug in station if the make such a thing for the servo wires?</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">on the stinson I used the 9 pin connectors they use for computers and they were a big pain in the</span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">to solder the wires.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">LOOKING FOR IDEAS HERE GUYS</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">Bruce</span>

panhandler

You should have no prob at all running 2 rx's . I have dual rx's in my Nitro P-38 that i am modifying. While running all my test i see no lag at all in the control surfaces . I aslo have each rx conected to individual ESC's , both motors run at the same rpm.
This stystem is 2.4 GHz. Originaly i was planning on placing the ESC's in the booms just behind the lipos, i decided to put them in the pod due the the procimity to bats creating interferance. They are much easier to access in this mater and just about eliminate y connections
I hope this helps .

splinterz25

Thanks panhandler..I'm hearing the samething from a few guyson each site this will keep the wiring down to shorter pieces and less of it all a round, no lipo's here though 6V 2000 MaH one for each side.

Thanks for responding,

Bruce<br type="_moz" />

splinterz25

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">Alright it sounds like what I want to do with the receivers will work so I will have two</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">one at the front of each boom, there will be a lot of stuff going in up there and I'll have to work on that once I get this tail end hooked up.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">So I need to make some long leads and need some shrink tube so I went to</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">Harbor Freight and picked up some goodies all of my bits and pieces were getting</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">out of control and in a disaray so I put and end to that and took some time and organized all of the servo stuff together connectors screws etc.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">And finely got around to making the leads and running my test of the RDS system</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">nothing is glued in but everything is bolted or screwed up tight and it WORKS!</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">really good much better than the ones on the Mossie witch I'll be redoing like these</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">I didn't measure but it' well over 1" of range of motion each way and very responsive.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">I want to make a video to show you guys but I'm not that great with making and posting them so when I can get some help w/ that I will post one.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">The only thing I need to do now is make the hatch covers and install some screw blocks for them and install them, once that's done I move to hooking the tail to the booms and start on the rudders.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">Bruce</span>

splinterz25

Today I worked on the hatches for the servos I used the pieces of balsa I cut out and put 1/32" ply on the inside to
keep it strong and glued in some 1/4" ply blocks for the screws to run into then screwed it in and sanded them flush
I post some photos tomorrow.

Bruce<br type="_moz" />

splinterz25

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">Well today I started prepping the tail sections for finnish I thought I would take this all the way through the glassing stage.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">I want to try this poly method anyway but I will NOT be going WATER BASE POLY.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">I finished making the hatches and think it will be easier to glass this whole tail first be for connecting the tail tips to the booms and this will help me figure out how I'll proceed w/ the rest of the build.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">Some of my parts are covered w/ sanding sealer and primer already so I'll be running some test w/ this going over that as well I don't see it being any problem, I've already ran a test w/ the poly I bought.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">I wanted to use Rustoulem poly but they only make a water base any more and I don't trust water base products I used them back when I was building cabinets the suppliers use to get us to try them and they fell short every time.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">So knowing that I 'll stay away from it, I bought Cabot satin polyurethane this is a very high quality product.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">Let me say right up front I know this will not be as tough as glassing w/ resin but will be a bit easier when it comes to the sanding.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">The other thing I did this morning was to glue in the pockets w/ epoxy mixed w/ microballoons, here's some photos of that and the other things I've don so far today</span>

splinterz25

MORE PHOTOS

splinterz25

Well I don't think I'll be using the poly it takes way to long to dry I ran another test w/ just the DEFT SANDING SEALERand it was dry in les than 20min. second coat and dry again in less than 30 min and with two coats it was almost filled

You can sand one hour after appling andIf I add some babypower to the mix I think it will even fill faster that will be my next test.

Then off to the store to get a gal. of the DEFT SANDING SEALER a pt. is $10.50 a Gal. is $22.00 it's a no brainer to buy the Gal. and I'm doing two planes right now.

Once the weave is filled, THEN IT'S primer till all of the low spots are filled and THEN paint.
Both primer and paint will be RUSTOULEM this is some very tough paint so I think the finish will hold up very well.

Bruce<br type="_moz" />

splinterz25

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">Started glassing this is going to be great very easy no rushing because of resin setting up and this sand sealer drys so fast I can make great time several coats in just a few hours forget waiting 6-12 hrs. for poly to dry I looked at my test piece this morning it was dry still a bit sticky.</span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">I get that after 20min w/ DEFT AND CAN SAND AFTER ONE HOUR!!</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">I have two coats on and the weave is almost filled I will sand and most likely do a total of four coats be for primer. so check it I tried to show the weave on the last shots.

Any questions just ask

Bruce<br type="_moz" /></span>

splinterz25

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">Alright I'm loving this three coats on the first side and two coats on the second side</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">I don't know why you would do this any other way unless you like waiting 6-12 hrs for each coat I 'll be ready to prime all parts tomorrow, check out the progress!!</span><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; "></span>

Bruce<br type="_moz" />

splinterz25

Today I shot the tail w/ primer and I'm letting it cure photos tomorrow.

Bruce<br type="_moz" />

splinterz25

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">priming is done now to assemble the tail surfaces.</span>

raptureboy

Well I'm just an casual observer and your work is amazing to say the least. I could only add this suggestion and that would be to get rid of as many of the extentions you have on the servos and direct wire them with HDwire 20-22 ga. You could cut off the plugs and solder the extentions onto the servo wires. I would also consider going with LiFe batteries. Here is a great resource for all your battery questions and needs. http://hangtimes.com/they also have some neat accesories. Again; excellent work!

Melchizedek

Impresive, Bruce

Kevin

splinterz25

Thanks guys rapture boy thanks for the link I did just that I've made one long leed for each side from the conecting point of the STAB_ELV to the front of the booms
I'm not very big on lipo's I will check out that site though need to get the fins and rudders up and running next
and I'll have to figure out where to put both recievers.

Bruce<br type="_moz" />

splinterz25

<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">Well I didn't get much done today that life stuff keeps getting in the way, but I was able to manage one of the RUDDER servos.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">I'm going to go w/ my original set up the custom poly insert w/ a Z bend back to the composit horn w/ 2-56 pushrod &amp; ballink you can see this page 4 report #49. I have company this weekend so there won't be much happing just football and food.</span><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><br style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; " /><span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14.545454025268555px; ">Bruce</span>

splinterz25

I'm taking a break from this build for awhile to work on the FLAPS for the Mossie.

Bruce<br type="_moz" />

splinterz25

still working on the mossie

splinterz25

getting back on this this weekend.