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I have had only 1 flight with the Saito (running rich) but based on that one flight my guess would be no. My guess is you would get 4 minutes max!

I’m not sure why you guys are getting such short flights. I’ve run the FG84, Ray Mod, with a 24oz tank and can fly 8-10min on 12oz to 15oz. Prop is a Xoar 23x12 and RPM was upper 6K to lower 7K in flight from telemetry.

The H9 Corsair is heavier than the TF model so I will concede that point.

Hi Chris

That is what I was told so the 16oz tank was fitting and I thought it should be good for 5 minutes flight. I will check more with others that are running one.

behzad

Corsair Flyby

Mr Matt, what are you using for retracts?

10 years service in my TF Corsair with Robart air, no problems.

Comparing old verses new yes there are things to look out for.
The new gear I dealt with on the Hellcat was bound up at the scissor linkage pretty bad. I went through everything including the cylinder. I tweaked the linkages to free them up meaning I pinched the inner one tighter and checked the fit. The cylinders didn’t have very much lube so I cleaned out what was there and added 3000wt silicone oil used in RC buggy differentials. They screw apart like a cap on a cylinder, no tool required.
After all that the gear cycles with very little pressure, 10psi down and 25psi up. So far has worked perfectly. I added air restrictors to both up/down air lines, works great. I have the same on the Corsair.

For the axle you can use the stock axle with the cap. Put that on the wheel face side and pass it through the gear leg with a spacer. Then cut it to length on the back of the leg and grind a flat for the set screw.

The old gear required none of the above and has worked flawlessly for 10 years. I just add a few drops of silicone oil in the air lines from time to time, that’s it!

BTW, I mentioned the Robart Hellcat gear meant for the new Top Flite Model because it’s the same base model gear just set to 100 degrees. The new production quality is not as good as before. The tolerance and burrs on the edge of the stamped parts are worse than before.
However, we would have to compare new production Corsair gear to old production gear to be fair.

Ok I have that version too. You need to find a shoulder bolt with a shoulder length similar too or slightly longer than the width of the your wheel hub. Then you just screw it into the leg with thread lock and it’s done. The shoulder is your axle. You will need a spacer between the wheel and leg. The head of the bolt can be a hex cap or a pan head slot screw. In order to make mine look less like a giant screw I ground it to look like a grease cap with a shallow slot for a screw driver. See a P-51 wheel hub up close for a visual.

Looks great so far!

There are ways to do it. In order to keep it light you can cut foam and shape it to look like the offset inner panel. You can use balsa and do the same. Combination of balsa and body filler like Evercoat would be my choice. You can seal the wood with thin CA and work it like a hard foam. If you use foam you have to worry about CA or body filler melting it. With balsa you can shape, seal it, hit it with a building primer and paint it. Look at Upol urethane automotive primer, it’s thick, dries fast and is compatible with most paints.
You could make master models and mold them in silicone then cast them in urethane, light weight and durable, cast in color.
You could make masters and vacuum form with styrene with a shop vac set up...

Just depends on on your preference really