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Hangar 9 60cc Corsair

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Hangar 9 60cc Corsair

Old 11-08-2014, 02:16 PM
  #1251  
Shaun Evans
 
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Hi

Could you just remove the cap strips from the wing ribs and meausre/cut some balsa sheeting to fit the bay? You could probably get the wing solidly sheeted in an hour that way.
Glassing is one of those 'once begun, halfway done' kind of things. It's more daunting to think about than to do for the first time. There's a hundred different methods, but I've found the easiest method is the brush-on method with thinned resin. I use West System which you can order online from a few different sources (I get it from Aircraft Spruce and Specialties). It's not a 50/50 resin, but comes in a kit with a metered pump (one pump of hardener per pump of resin, though the resin is 4 times the volume). I thin that with acetone or denatured alcohol 50/50 and use the cheap $1/ea Home Depot paint brushes. I lay the cloth over the dry prepared surface (filled/sanded as fine and smooth as I can get it, then blown with a leaf blower) and brush the mixture onto the surface through the cloth. Shiny spots mean too much resin pooling up. That's not stronger--only heavier. For wings and stabs, I do the tops first and take my time carefully going around edges. I keep an x-acto handy in case some speck gets caught under the cloth (make a small slice, remove the fod and fair it out with the brush) and let the parts dry. Direct sunlight gets it dry enough to handle in 90 minutes. If not, overnight in room temperature will do the job well enough for you to trim the edges, sand them smooth and do the other side. Once both sides are done, I use another dose of resin mixed the same way for the finish coat to fill the weave. Some use filler or primer, but I like this. The difference is I don't use the brush this time since it leaves brush strokes that are hard to sand out without a lot of work. For this coat, I use a small, cheap 4" paint roller (also from Lowes or Home Depot). No brush strokes to sand and done with one side of an average small jet (two wings, two ailerons, two flaps, two stabs and one rudder) in a half-hour.

West System sands easily to powder if you follow the directions with regard to mixing. I use 220 grit to block sand the surface, then 320 wet as a final sand. Your primer will reveal how good your work really is. It will reveal most of your imperfections which usually are solved with a little more sanding. You end up with a smooth, durable surface that's not much heavier than covering at all. Some people claim the glassing adds no strength, but that's silly. A good glass job with properly oriented weave will definitely add strength. Just take your time, and don't overstay your resin. When it starts thickening up, don't just dilute it more--mix another batch (one ounce at a time with West System).

I was pretty happy with the last glass job I did and it was quick! The glassing part starts on Page 5:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...l-build-5.html

Good luck!
Old 11-08-2014, 03:06 PM
  #1252  
DOC
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Default F4U Maiden Flight Today

1st Flight very successful !
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Old 11-08-2014, 03:46 PM
  #1253  
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yellow thanks for the info but i fear if i remove the strips what will support the balsa sheeting im pretty sure im going to strip this bird . although the covering job is amazing a couple hours with an iron and it would look like it was glassed but of course the finish is prone to dents an scratches if one of my warbirds deserve glassing it is this one /closes i will ever get to a comp arf corsair lol
Old 11-08-2014, 03:53 PM
  #1254  
mirored
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I use a similar method, slightly modified, to what Yellow posted. I don't use alcohol to thin it but I have several squeegee boards ready to remove as much material as possible. They are typically thin plywood, 1/16" or thinner, that are about 2 inches wide, very straight edge that is sanded smooth with 600 grit paper and slightly rounded edges so it doesn't grab the cloth. The resin gets applied and then pushed away as much as possible. What is left is only what is needed to hold the cloth to the plane and no extra resin. Filling and sanding past that point is from sandable primer.
Old 11-08-2014, 05:51 PM
  #1255  
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Originally Posted by DOC
1st Flight very successful !
Congrats on a safe Maiden and welcome to the Corsair Club! Bird looks great!!!!
Old 11-08-2014, 07:32 PM
  #1256  
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Originally Posted by DOC
1st Flight very successful !


congrats on the first flight! i like your paint job here mine at joe nall
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Old 11-08-2014, 10:51 PM
  #1257  
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Does anyone have any close up shots of their Evolution 7-77 installation here? I've got the same setup and the top bolt is pretty close to the edge of the firewall. Are you having to snip a bit of a blind nut to get it in there, and how thick is the wood mount you're using... 1"? I guess it's required to cut away some of the firewall and bracing to get it to fit properly....
Old 11-09-2014, 12:50 AM
  #1258  
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Here is a shot. Yes, the top nut should be cut a little. The thick of the mount is 25 mm.
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Old 11-09-2014, 09:04 AM
  #1259  
Shaun Evans
 
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Originally Posted by mirored
I use a similar method, slightly modified, to what Yellow posted. I don't use alcohol to thin it but I have several squeegee boards ready to remove as much material as possible. They are typically thin plywood, 1/16" or thinner, that are about 2 inches wide, very straight edge that is sanded smooth with 600 grit paper and slightly rounded edges so it doesn't grab the cloth. The resin gets applied and then pushed away as much as possible. What is left is only what is needed to hold the cloth to the plane and no extra resin. Filling and sanding past that point is from sandable primer.

Yep,

A lot of people prefer this method. I did try it once, but found couldn't get the cloth to stop sliding/moving when I was trying to spread the resin. I'm sure that if I'd kept at it, I'd have gotten better. I find that with the thinned resin and a paint brush, I can get the cloth lain down in 1/3rd the time. In fact, I've done complete glass jobs (wings, stabs, elevators, ailerons, flaps and rudder) in a single Summer day. The thinned resin with direct sunlight can be sandable in 90 minutes. I had a buddy helping and we did two Y/A A-4's in one day. Primer the next morning
Old 11-09-2014, 11:30 AM
  #1260  
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well decided to glass the plane starting with the wings covering came off fairly easy some spots took a lite sanding . but still not sure on how to remove the cap strips without damagine the ribs am going to try and cover with balsa sheeting. .yellow how are u planing on joining the solertex to the fiberglass on the wing and tail sections for that scale look if possible can u please post some pics for us beginners kind regards
Old 11-09-2014, 12:13 PM
  #1261  
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yellow aircraft i was thinking of using fliteskin over wings and rudder and fg cloth for the fuse what do u recomend 1 once for fuse ? will be going with zpoxy thined down but for wings i was thinking to put fliteskin over entire wing without removing any balsa at all . thoughts.
Old 11-09-2014, 02:48 PM
  #1262  
Shaun Evans
 
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Jony,

First of all, I'm not currently building this airplane. I am about to assemble the TF one for a customer who I couldn't persuade to upgrade to this bird. When I was discussing dealing with the open bays, it was theoretical. I know exactly how I would tackle it (which is what I detailed in my comments before) but I have yet to actually try it. I've built enough to have a good idea of what will or won't work, so I'm confident that I could glass the plane's wings and still have a fabric-covered, open-bay covering on the wings.

I've never used Fliteskin, so I can't speak intelligently about it at all. In the case of this TF Corsair, I'm going to build a new rudder since the Frankenstein's boot they've got hinged to the fin won't do. I'm using a light blue Solartex fabric for that. I'll paint it to match the rest of the plane later.

Where can I find out more about Fliteskin?
Old 11-09-2014, 03:22 PM
  #1263  
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YA, here is the link to Fliteskin

Roger

http://www.fliteskin.com/
Old 11-09-2014, 04:12 PM
  #1264  
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Another option is to scuff the UltraCote and paint with exterior latex house paint. Here is a photo of my ESM Corsair wing with added panel lines.
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Old 11-09-2014, 04:58 PM
  #1265  
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Anyone have a spare sliding canopy? I need the rear part of the canopy, had a CA glue accident and my one on order is not until DEC! Any help appreciated!
Old 11-09-2014, 09:13 PM
  #1266  
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Originally Posted by Cristian2fast4you
Here is a shot. Yes, the top nut should be cut a little. The thick of the mount is 25 mm.
Thank you very much Christian, appreciated
Old 11-10-2014, 07:01 AM
  #1267  
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Originally Posted by CaptRKO
Anyone have a spare sliding canopy? I need the rear part of the canopy, had a CA glue accident and my one on order is not until DEC! Any help appreciated!
Is it just some fog or did you make a mess?
Old 11-10-2014, 07:42 AM
  #1268  
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Originally Posted by CaptRKO
Anyone have a spare sliding canopy? I need the rear part of the canopy, had a CA glue accident and my one on order is not until DEC! Any help appreciated!
I have one, I used the one piece canopy. Give me a call........361-550-3017 Chris
Old 11-10-2014, 08:27 PM
  #1269  
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Originally Posted by trickpony4
I have one, I used the one piece canopy. Give me a call........361-550-3017 Chris

calling now!
Old 11-11-2014, 08:35 AM
  #1270  
k_sonn
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Originally Posted by YellowAircraft
Kirk,

Thanks. The only hesitation for me with the water-based stuff is when I read the builds, these guys are doing 5 coats with sanding between each. Also, the one example of a finished airplane I handled in person was really soft to the fingernail (it was handled post-mortem so the owner didn't mind me tapping and digging on it). When I use West System, I do one lay-down coat with thinned resin and a paint brush, then a weave-filler coat with a roller. Seems nice and hard compared to the water-based.
Thank Shawn and everyone else that responded.

Actually, I'm not experiencing the water based clear as being softer than the West System epoxy. I'm using the Varathane clear for finishing wood floors. Also, I'm applying it the same way I do the West System epoxy. It's possible the Varathane clear for finishing floors dries harder than the Minwax clear for finishing furniture. Or it could be the technique I'm using or combination of both.

I way I apply the West System epoxy and the way I'm doing the Varathane clear is the same:
1. apply a thin coat over the glass and scrape off the excess until you can't pick up any more
2. mix the second coat with micro balloons, apply, then scrape off the excess. I mix in the micro balloons until the it's a thick paste. This is a light-weight way to fill in the weave of the cloth and gives a very smooth finish after sanding with 400 grit.

Kirk
Old 11-11-2014, 08:40 AM
  #1271  
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Originally Posted by jonyfever
if i wanted to cover the entire wing and forget the openings what would u guys suggest. i was thinking of fliteskin expensive but i heard good things. when glassing the fuse did u drape one piece over the whole fuse or do the tail piece seperate ? this would be my first glassing project and dont really like the covering
To remove the open bays in the wing you could remove the wing rib caps and cover with balsa sheeting.

Kirk
Old 11-11-2014, 08:56 AM
  #1272  
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Originally Posted by jonyfever
well decided to glass the plane starting with the wings covering came off fairly easy some spots took a lite sanding . but still not sure on how to remove the cap strips without damagine the ribs am going to try and cover with balsa sheeting. .yellow how are u planing on joining the solertex to the fiberglass on the wing and tail sections for that scale look if possible can u please post some pics for us beginners kind regards
Here's a couple of photos of the top and bottom of a full scale Corsair wing that shows how the fabric is laid out on the wing. Hope this helps.

Kirk

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Old 11-12-2014, 08:13 AM
  #1273  
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Glassing has been completed and the initial sanding with 320 grit has been completed. Primed and ready for wet sanding with 400 grit.

Kirk

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Old 11-12-2014, 01:07 PM
  #1274  
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Whoa.

That's crazy quick.
Old 11-12-2014, 03:37 PM
  #1275  
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k son that looks great what did u use over the open bays on the wings?

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