TF 1/5 Scale P-51 ARF Assembly (1ST MISHAP!!!)
03-26-2016, 07:31 PM
#3801
Exactly what maneuver is it that you do that twist the (part?) and ruins the cam blocks. I have bent and broken lots of struts but have never had any damage to the retract mechanism. Once I had a sudden left ground loop that broke the top of the plastic block and have had many bounced landings that cracked the aluminum frame.
03-27-2016, 05:53 AM
#3802
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Exactly what maneuver is it that you do that twist the (part?) and ruins the cam blocks. I have bent and broken lots of struts but have never had any damage to the retract mechanism. Once I had a sudden left ground loop that broke the top of the plastic block and have had many bounced landings that cracked the aluminum frame.
This problem has been noted many times in the Mustang and FW treads. The axle on the left the posts are bent out of alignment. The slide blocks can't hold the pivot straight. The axle on the right is new. The first year Robart came out with the electric's I put the in 3 Planes. With in a month, all had bent. After several of us ( other thread posters) figured out what was happening, putting the extra set of cam blocks in fixed the problem. 100's of flights later not one has bent of failed. Believe it or not is up to you. Definition of a "perfect landing" a no bounce, mains on the ground at the same time, no cross wind, no nose over. Your definition may vary.
03-27-2016, 06:54 AM
#3804
Looking at the Robart parts sheets. The electric gear uses the double set of square cam blocks while the air gear use a single round cam follower. In order to adapt my air gear I will need the square blocks and a cross link that fits my air cylinder piston. More complicated than I expected. I may have to machine my own parts.
03-27-2016, 07:05 AM
#3805
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This is a Mustang 90 deg block. The blocks you put in the back of the housing you will have to alter ( shave side to fit, drill new mounting holes, remove the riveted bearing mount in the back of the housing. Bearing won't and retaining screw on the back of the axle won't be need the once the the the second block in installed)
03-27-2016, 07:13 AM
#3806
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Looking at the Robart parts sheets. The electric gear uses the double set of square cam blocks while the air gear use a single round cam follower. In order to adapt my air gear I will need the square blocks and a cross link that fits my air cylinder piston. More complicated than I expected. I may have to machine my own parts.
03-27-2016, 09:58 PM
#3807
Help!!
Hey guys I am having some engine running issues with my TF Mustang. Baciaclly engine won't run with the cowl on. Cowl off runs like a Swiss clock. Put the cowl on and it Boggs down and eventually dies.
Engine is a GP61 with a GP Pitts muffler running 40:1 on Redline oil with a 23x10 Carbon prop.
according to my friend who is also the distributor for GP engines here says the carb is sucking in hot air. It has no clean air to properly operate.
I thought perhaps a velocity stack extending into the fuse would help but he believes that will do nothing. His answer is we need to some how open up the cowl to allow clean air in, but I don't want to hack the cowl to bits to do that. Anyone had similar experiences?
Hey guys I am having some engine running issues with my TF Mustang. Baciaclly engine won't run with the cowl on. Cowl off runs like a Swiss clock. Put the cowl on and it Boggs down and eventually dies.
Engine is a GP61 with a GP Pitts muffler running 40:1 on Redline oil with a 23x10 Carbon prop.
according to my friend who is also the distributor for GP engines here says the carb is sucking in hot air. It has no clean air to properly operate.
I thought perhaps a velocity stack extending into the fuse would help but he believes that will do nothing. His answer is we need to some how open up the cowl to allow clean air in, but I don't want to hack the cowl to bits to do that. Anyone had similar experiences?
03-28-2016, 06:43 AM
#3810
Here is my problem. The air retract uses these round sliders to lock the gear. The pin fits into the air cylinder piston. To add the second block in the rear I need to be able to drive dual sliders. I ordered some of the square type as used by the electric retracts and will try to machine the proper link to drive them.
03-28-2016, 08:30 AM
#3811
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Here is my problem. The air retract uses these round sliders to lock the gear. The pin fits into the air cylinder piston. To add the second block in the rear I need to be able to drive dual sliders. I ordered some of the square type as used by the electric retracts and will try to machine the proper link to drive them.
03-28-2016, 08:31 AM
#3812
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You should listen to your friend as he is probably right. If the carb is sucking heat, the engine will bog down.
I've included a picture here as to what I did to solve this problem on my P-47.I just fabricated a simple heat deflector.
Hope it helps
paul
03-28-2016, 10:13 AM
#3814
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I'm sorry, thought you wanted to convert the to electric. There is no reason to use a double post with air. The air retracts don't twist. There is nothing wrong with air, accept they are air. Sorry for the confusion. Good luck.
03-28-2016, 02:13 PM
#3815
03-28-2016, 02:14 PM
#3816
You wouldn't have a photo of these plastic tubes and how they are routed?
