pittsdriver

My Feedback: (7)

Lordus, I like the Hitec 645MGs. They are standard size with 109in oz of torque and are around 35bucks. Don

Lorduss

i like those servos also, i use them for the steering on my tmaxx and savage, and for my rudder/elevator on my extra 300.

on the flaps i imagen i could get away with a little less of a servo, but more than a standard ,even for my alerions i imagen i could use 605s or 615s like i have on my extra,

im just trying to plan out the right combo without doing much overkill. because id like to cut cost where i can.
should i go with regular or HeavyDuty extentions for the wing servos ?

i was told a 225 mg would go good on the throttle setup. and maby a standard for my tail gear.

i do plan on making this more of less my speed plane, so i have to take that into precaution when thinking about my servo selection. id like to be able to crank the throttle and hit some real high speeds, not going with any kinda special motor, just my extra is not realy what id consider a speed plane, more of a 3d machine.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Steve, the only thing that whistles while my plane is flying is ME LOL!.. Naaaa its not an issue. I have seem several Stangs fly with out the doors and NO WHISTLING .... BobH.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

I forgot to ask the other day. I have a black fiberglass rod about 1/4" x 3' long in the kit that I can't seem to figure out what it is for. Anyone know what I missed.


Lets talk some programming setup. If I have it right, this is what I will need to do. The retracts are on a servo. Tailwheel steering is on a servo. the choke is on a servo. The flaps are on a servo. I'll never remember what all these switches do. No wonder warbirds crash.

Anyway, Item 1: I think I have to program link the tailwheel steering to the rudder, but on a switch because you do not want the retracted tailwheel turning when you use the rudder in flight. Item 2: The choke is on a servo so it can also be utilized as an inflight kill switch(Don't want to hit that one by mistake). Item 3: The retracts and flaps are straight forward, switch activated.

Could someone that has used retracts comment on this: It seems it will be really cool to have the retracts go up nice and slow for visual effect on takeoff. Does this bleed extra air and decrease your available cycles. I cannot see needing more than two cycles per flight anyway.

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

I have the kit ... oops ...ARF, almost ready to go, once the retracts arrive. These things must be popular! I may put the fixed gear blocks in for the time being to run the engine and check weight and balance.

I can't remember seeing what the use of the long fiberglass rod was, but the instruction manual is at home.

Someone asked about the spinner. It's not as nice as a "Brand T-T", but it is in the box. It's cut for a rather large prop size, meaning it'll probably fit any prop you want to use, except 4 blade ones. I'll be painting mine black and white.

When the tailwheel is retracted, it takes the tension off the pull-pull cables used to control it. When I did the TF P-51 in true kit form, I put a small coil spring in each of the pull-pull legs, right at the servo. This will take a lot of strain off the servo on less-than-perfect landings.

I'm using a US41, since #1, it's a bolt in installation, #2, it has enough (barely) power and #3, I had one! It fits within the cowl, except for carb venturi out the side and the top of the cylinder head out the bottom. Not the head itself, just the little protrusion on the top of the head. The cowl is cut for the head and muffler exit, but you have to do some carving to get the carb through the side. Even the checkerboards match up quite closely.

I'll send photos when I can shrink them down from Hi-res digitals.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Dick,
the system will take much larger pics now than before, so you may be able to post the ones you already have. Just hit the upload button and you can put up 4 pics per post.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Steve, your tail wheel can indeed turn with the rudder. If you are using a separate servo make your ATV less for the tail wheel steering that the rudder ATV is. You don'n need much movement from the tail wheel to be effective. I don't know what type of radio you are using but both my 8 UAF and my 9 zwcii have a kill command for the engine. I assign it to a spring loaded switch (left side, top).
As for your retract speed. Using a slow up will not decrease your number of cycles. I have slow up and close to normal speed down. . BobH.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

I use a 9C

Does anyone know what that black fiberglass rod is for. I can find nothing in the instrcutions that mention it and can find nothing that requires it.

A couple more pics of the preliminary setup of the fuselage interior.

On the fuel tank. I extended the small wooden support blocks on the side about a quarter inch so that the tank pivots on them. After I insert the tank at an angle and pivot it flat, the wedge stick (long stick at back of tank) holds it in beautifully. For actual flight a small block will be CA'd in to hold the wedge stick from coming loose. All fits together nicely.

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

Here's a few photos of the Top Flite ARF P-51 with a US41 engine.

(BTW, you folks using a lighter and more powerful engine, You got it made!. I checked the balance and I'll need several ounces of tail weight to balance with the US41.)

Total weight as you see in photos is 18 lbs 5 oz. The fixed gear stuff is in place only because Robart has back ordered the retracts. All I need to add is the cowl, canopy and a pilot head. Maybe 19 pounds, maybe a few ounces more. That'll be just fine.

Modelman

My Feedback: (7)

Steve, Dick...

Are you certain there is a "fiberglass" rod included in your kit? Or... is it a very stiff (black) Outer Pushrod Tube? Please verify.

The very first shipment of kits included an incorrect Outer Pushrod Tube (the black one). We corrected the mistake by inserting the correct (Grey) Outer Pushrod tube - leaving the black one in the kit.

Craig

splais

My Feedback: (25)

It is a very stiff (black) Outer Pushrod Tube.

So did I not get something I needed or was this extra. I'm all done with the internal fuselage stuff and nothing is missing that I can tell.

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

Do not put weak servos on the FLAPS. The flaps should have at least 100oz. servos to hold those big barn doors down into the slipstream. Lower rates will cause your battery to be drained from the current drain from stalled servos. These are the largest control surfaces on the plane. I now have two of these Mustangs to complete and are waiting on gear also. Bothe planes will have a G-62 with CH ignition in them. Should go like H---. Also they will be fitted with the Aerotech wheels. They are real neat. I hope I get to fly one before the snow flies.
I can't wait to hear who gets theirs in the air first. I installed the tail gear doors and they work as advertised. This is a real neat and simple way to control those doors.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Gary, you must have way more skill than I because mine do not work for s===. Not sure what I am going to do about them. Right now they will not close without help.

Well, my Sierra Precision gear arrived today so I am ready to go. I now have all my parts. The initial impression of the SPC gear is that they are beautiful. Preliminary install indicates that they will fit just fine.

I started applying the decals today. Used windex instead of soapy water. Worked perfectly. Not a bubble in site. Here are a few more pics.

Lorduss

thanks gary, im glad knowing now what i realy need for those flaps,
the book mentions 50 oz torq min for the rudder, elevator and alerions, but doesnt give a min torq spec for the flaps.

so far im planning out, 645s for the tail surfaces. 615s for the entire wing.
standard servo for the tale gear steering, and a 225 for the throttle. no retracts

what did you guys use for servo selection ?

since im gonna use the stardard gear, is this gonna cause a problem at high speeds? i know i might get a little more speed with the less drag of retracts. but is the drag gonna be a problem at all other than loss of speed? i dont need screws pulling out on me or some thing like that.

pittsdriver

My Feedback: (7)

Lordus, The retracts will make the difference of a slow soso flying airplane or a fast plane that flys on rails. The retracts are well worth the effort. Or if you just want to get into the air now and put the retracts in later. I think Robart will get geared up on these and get a supply out soon. Don

AC2

My Feedback: (34)

Splais,
Darrell sure does good work, those retracts look outstanding!
I received my kit about a week ago but since moving into the new home it will be another week or so before my garage will be ready for building.

I plan on using robarts for now and an engine I have already, a super hustler with front intake, rear exaust and ch ignition. I'll have to check and make sure but I think its a 2.5, same as the US engines. This will be a fun fly plane for me. I will get another one, glass it and trick it out with SP retracts, bigger engine etc. later.

Petit, Looking good man!

Eagerly Waiting for that next Warbird ARF from Top Flite[sm=bananahead.gif]

AC

splais

My Feedback: (25)

OK, I screwed up and put the wrong size Stars & Bars on the fuselage. I used the big one before I realized there were two different sizes. Thanks TF for not mentioning this in the instructions!

Anyway, I have not put the other 3 on yet. Wonder If I can remove it without messing up the covering (I doubt it). Maybe I should just go ahead and put them all on ass-backwards! Any suggestions on how to get it off.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Steve, you can try heat to remove the decal.. It will probably ruin it though.?
The TF build kit came with the wrong size star n bars so I replaced them with ones from Major Decal.. They work well..
Your gear look just like I knew they would... excellent!... BobH.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

I'm not worried about saving the decal. I'm sure I can get another sheet from TF. What I don't want to do is mess up the monocoat. I'm not going to do anything until I find out if I can get another decal sheet from TF.

Now that I have done some work on the SP retracts a few comments on the Robart vs Sierra decision.

It's simple, if you want the best looking, highest quality product get the Sierra's. If money is a serious issue get the Robarts, they are nice looking also and quite a bit cheaper; but they do not come anywhere near to looking as good as the Sierras. The retract scale and construction is much higher on the Sierra's. Sierra also has a valve that is simular, but much better quality. The rest of it, hoses, fittings ,etc is the same. I have the Robart tailwheel, Robart tank, Sierra mains, Sierra valve, Robart fill fitting and pressure gauge. I had never even seen air retracts before. The entire system was easy to install with no problems at all.

A slight side note: Man I had forgotten how much I hate epoxying wing halves together.

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

I'm supposed to get my Robarts in Two weeks,
Lorduss, now listen very carefully. The 615 Hitecs do not have enough torque for the Flaps. They will function in the aileron slot. The 645s will work in the other slots. Rudder, Flaps, Elevators. I use a standard ball bearing servo for the tail wheel steering, and the actuator for the retracts. Use a precision low torque, 60 size pattern bird servo for the throttle. This will allow precise throttle control. It will help on landing and take off. Smooth application of throttle. Also as said before, with the gear hanging down, you had better have at least a 3.2 in the nose to off set the drag of the gear hanging down in the slip stream for the model to fly well.
On the other fellows problem with the gear doors, where did you place the rubber band hangers? I placed mine almost at the bottom of the doors and about an inch below the door opening. I wanted the rubber bands stretched even when closed. Good tension.
I hope this helps.

manofsteel

My Feedback: (2)

Have a Pica P51 1/5 scale and it is a GREAT flyer. Only have a G38 in it but will be changing to a G62. About 5 yrs old and it is holding up great. Have robart retracts. Any others out there? Great looking plane you have there.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

I put the tailwheel rubber brackets exactly were the instructions showed to put them. That isn't the problem. It was VERY difficult to attach those doors and the hinges bind a little. Hoefully some oil will help and 2000# rubberbands!

48chebbie

My Feedback: (58)

i got mine wednesday,i am going the G62 route,i am not fond of under powered warbirds,and,i am sure that this does not include everyone,but,lately i have seen alot of troubles with air retracts,and i don't like them anyway,nor do i have a soft spot at our field to belly this monster down,so,i am installing 404 series springair retracts,not exactly a drop in,but,not a problem.not to mention,their tailwheel set-up is actually a nosegear retract. next will come a set of oleos,and some cool aluminum wheels. with the zenoah,she ought to hall the mail! going with 605's and 645's for servos. later

splais

My Feedback: (25)

I am far enough along to make the first true weighing of the plane. Looks like she will be around 17.8 pounds ready to fly. Very pleasing to discover.

vik

My Feedback: (1)

48chebbie G62 is too heavy!
Use something like ZDZ 50. It will give you more power and it is smaller and lighter. Or ZDZ 60/80 these two have same block and more then inuugh power.