Ziroli p-47 92" blown up to 110"
04-28-2014, 09:45 AM
#177
My nomenclature from Jerry at Pro-mark arrived for the P-47.
These are dry transfer so no decal edges will show. Each nomenclature is numbered so it can be put in the correct location with the included numbers on the enclosed picture of a P-47.
I also got another sheet of general warbird nomenclature for the Z P-51.
web site:
http://www.pro-mark.com/
04-29-2014, 09:17 AM
#179
Wet sanding:
Finished the other wing and the fuse.
Stab/vertical fin to fuse.
With all parts wet sanded and panel lines in, now they can be glued together with minimum filler and sanding.
The stab was first.
After getting equal distance from fuse nose to stab tips, the horizontal level was checked: some pieces of balsa were needed to prop up the right side of the stab (plus visual check).
The area was masked off to keep excess epoxy off the finished primer. The parts were not disassembled but lots of epoxy was slopped into all the cracks. While the epoxy was firm but not dry, the masking tape was removed.
The vertical fin was next. A digital protractor (plus visual check) was used to insure the fin was perpendicular. The fin could easily be removed so epoxy was first applied to all mating surfaces and, after the fin was attached, then into all the cracks. The bottom rudder hinge was also epoxied into place (I don't think the prototype had a hinge at the bottom but I added one for extra safety). Masking tape was again used to contain the epoxy and removed once the epoxy firmed up.
Some balsa filler plus easy sand will be used for the fillets.
Last edited by samparfitt; 04-29-2014 at 09:24 AM.
04-30-2014, 03:39 PM
#184
Miscellaneous:
Cockpit kit:
From Dbalsa.
I used rustoleum moss green to paint some of the parts of the kit.
Linkages, hinges, etc:
Parts that will be difficult to put aluminum tape on were painted silver.
Recessed areas: wing TE, wheel wells, cockpit area, etc.
Moss green was used to paint these areas. It should be a yellowish green but rustoleum doesn't sell anything even close.
Stab fillets:
The bottom was masked off to contain the easy sand that was applied to the fillet between the fuse and stab. A little sanding and the part is done.
Engine exhaust:
Spent 3-4 hours trying to get a scale exhaust from the moki to the side of the fuse. Since the fire wall is removable, I need to have the exhaust also detach. Wasn't making much progress so I 'shelved it' for now.
05-01-2014, 07:27 AM
#185
Aluminum tape:
The plane will be covered in aluminum tape.
My last plane took about 138 hours to complete.
Surface prep must be the same as with painting: glassing and priming. Just as paint does, the aluminum tape will reveal every blemish.
Also, as with paint, the ends, and hinges, etc, are done first.
Tools of the trade:
I used tape from home depot that has a backing paper on it. I tape will curl less if the tape is placed face down when removing the backing paper.
Blending stumps are from Michael's craft store. Good for around edges, hinges, etc.
Bondo applicator: I found the green ones are softer than the yellow ones. Good for securing the tape to the surface of the aircraft.
Application:
The tape, as does any flat material, doesn't like large compound curves so cuts need to be made around corners.
I usually do duplicate parts at the same time to insure uniformity and also speeds up the application of the tape.
I find applying small pieces much easier than large sheets. Once the tape touches, there is no pulling it up and re-applying. Throw it out and get another sheet. This stuff sticks like iron: my last P-47 had over 300 flights and the tape never bubbled or came loose.
Overlapping a panel line is being done on the flap and covering the LE. As mentioned, a sheet this large is usually not done. Experience with the material will allow larger sheets to be used. The bondo applicator was used to work from the center and adhere the tape to the surface. Small scissors were used to cut a slot in the tape where the flap control horn is located. Due to the LE not being perfectly round, I got a wrinkle at one spot but, since it is the LE, and will not be seen, I don't worry about it (also, why I used a large sheet in this area). The bondo applicator's edge can be used to push the foil into the panel line. A sharp xacto blade can then be used to cut just outside the panel line plus about an 1/8" overlap past the edge of the LE.
Pieces were applied to fit between the hinges and panel line.
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-01-2014 at 07:32 AM.
05-01-2014, 11:11 AM
#186
Aluminum tape (cont):
A thin lead mechanical pencil is used to mark rivet lines. A sharpened brass tube is held at about 30 degrees and rotated 360 to get each rivet. Spacing is done by 'eye'.
The tape says 3" but it's closer to 2 7/8". I draw in where rivets go and overlap the tape by 1/16" at the rivet line. After applying the rivets, the overlay virtually disappears. With this size tape, just about any panel can be covered since there are usually rivets within the panel. And, as mentioned, smaller pieces of tape are much easier to apply. The tape is left extra wide, one edge is overlaid on the rivet line and the other edge is then cut using an xacto knife with a sharp blade.
One flap done: couple thousand rivets, about 20,000 more to go!
Do this while watching the idiot box and I'll have, at least, two mindless things to do!
A thin lead mechanical pencil is used to mark rivet lines. A sharpened brass tube is held at about 30 degrees and rotated 360 to get each rivet. Spacing is done by 'eye'.
The tape says 3" but it's closer to 2 7/8". I draw in where rivets go and overlap the tape by 1/16" at the rivet line. After applying the rivets, the overlay virtually disappears. With this size tape, just about any panel can be covered since there are usually rivets within the panel. And, as mentioned, smaller pieces of tape are much easier to apply. The tape is left extra wide, one edge is overlaid on the rivet line and the other edge is then cut using an xacto knife with a sharp blade.
One flap done: couple thousand rivets, about 20,000 more to go!
Do this while watching the idiot box and I'll have, at least, two mindless things to do!
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-02-2014 at 05:22 AM.
05-02-2014, 04:15 PM
#189
Aluminum tape (cont)
Ailerons:
The tape was cut to fit each rib line (only way to do it), overlapping by a 1/16" for rivets.
Normally, I immediately do the rivets on parts just done, but I can bring the small pieces into the house in the evening and work on them.
Wing:
I penciled all the rivet lines onto the wing.
I started with a large panel along the top, front, inside edge of the wing. I put the wing on the fuse so I could mark the fillet area and know where to put the rivets along this edge. The rivet lines were long but thin so the tape was put on parallel to the LE. I used a soft cutting board that saves wear on the xacto blade. There's a lot of waste involved with taping but still pretty cheap. I'll probably use 4-5 rolls or about 100-125 bucks.
I had trouble removing the chart tape. Never had this problem before: not sure if it was defective or that I left it on the plane too long.
Anyway, I put some aluminum tape over it and the results are the same, whether the panel line is recessed or raised: I'm guessing that since they are so narrow, the eye can't detect either way.
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-02-2014 at 04:18 PM.
05-03-2014, 09:08 AM
#191
Thanks, Gary.
Good luck at top gun.
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Aluminum tape (cont)
flaps/ailerons:
Finished up the ailerons and flaps, last night, while watching the boob tube for an hour.
Wing:
Progression pictures.
The tape seems to have a 'grain' to it, reflecting light depending on the direction the tape was applied.
The tape did well around the wing tips. A few access hatches also added.
Panel lines get double rivets (both sides) while inner panel rivets are single spaced.
If you have finger nails, chop them down to nubs.
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-03-2014 at 09:11 AM.
05-04-2014, 02:47 AM
#194
Thanks, guys.
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Aluminum tape (cont)
Yesterday and last night I finished up the top of the right wing and tops of the elevators. The elevators, like the ailerons, had to have the tape applied perpendicular to the LE. I like doing the tops first as I can wrap the tape around the edges and the bottom application will not need any 'wrap around'; just an xacto blade to cut the tape at the edges: thus, the best side is on top.
Last edited by samparfitt; 05-04-2014 at 02:51 AM.
You are making fast work of this tape!
05-04-2014, 03:20 AM
#196
I'm shooting for June. I usually put in 12-14 hr days. Except for yard work, most of my time is on the planes. Flying season is here and I've got three flyins for May but those are just 'one dayers'. Still to do: full cockpit, functioning gear doors, functioning canopy, functioning cowl flaps, functioning inner cooler doors, scale exhaust, hardware install, and oh yes, finish up the aluminum tape!
05-04-2014, 04:01 AM
#197
Looking good Sam,
I am hoping to see you at the CMA field Father's Day Fly-In. We are expanding the runway this year and it should be in very good shape by then. We will also be doing the steak dinner in the evening again so bring your appetite.
Later!!
Anthony
I am hoping to see you at the CMA field Father's Day Fly-In. We are expanding the runway this year and it should be in very good shape by then. We will also be doing the steak dinner in the evening again so bring your appetite.
Later!!
Anthony