New Hangar 9 P-51 60cc
02-10-2017, 05:13 PM
#1454
Join Date: May 2014
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It's mounted to a peice of lite ply using the metal clamps that come with the accuator on the top stringers. I had to get creative with using tools for fingers. To get it set in place you'll need to do the mod to the canopy frame and make the push rod to know where to mount the accuator. I would make the push rid longer than what I had put on the post from page 17
02-11-2017, 05:58 AM
#1457
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What about leaving original G10 in place, adding additional G10 in front of original G10 with a new T piece to connect to rod? Reason I ask is I already have my canopy glued onto frame...it should still function ok?
02-11-2017, 07:03 AM
#1458
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I don't see why it wouldn't work. I did a second canopy but I forgot to put in a new t part. I cut the front edge of the frame and removed the old T glued in a new one with hysol and a filler peice to fill in the cut frame
02-11-2017, 08:25 AM
#1459
Some advice on the canopy frame. Recently while flying my H9 D model, the rear piece of wood that holds the g10 and sliding pin broke in the middle. The g10 piece fell out and remained in the rear groove while the canopy, free to flop around, moved enough to break the magnets apart and allow the slipstream to tear the canopy off of the fuselage. I saw something separate from the plane and fall away so I brought the plane around for a slow inspection pass. The canopy was gone so I landed the plane to check for other damage.One of the guys present went out in the golf cart to look for the canopy and soon returned with it. The frame had numerous cracks in it and the front sliders were damaged by the canopy being yanked off of the plane. I returned home to see what could be done to repair it. The first thing I did was go online and buy a new canopy kit from horizon. I tried to glue the pieces of the sliders back together but they were too badly damaged and not even suitable for patterns to make new parts. I found some aircraft grade ply to make new parts out of, and an old, damaged canopy from my first plane that was lost when a flap servo failed on landing (the canopy had been cracked but the frame was intact.Using a Hobbico hot knife I separated the broken parts from the canopy frame without damaging it further and repaired the cracked front u-frame with credit card stock glued on with canopy glue. I also removed the unbroken front sliders from the old canopy frame to use as spare parts. On examining the parts I realised that they were not suitable for their intended use in the first place so I used them as patterns to make new parts out of the A/C grade ply.Then I examined the rear fake wood part that supports the rear slider. Its wood was so fragile (not even as strong as air-ply, or hard balsa) that I wondered how it had lasted for 50 flights in the first place. I glued it back together and reinforced it with a piece of A/C grade ply infront of the slider hole, then glued the slider back in. After checking for proper fit and travel I glued another piece of A/C ply under the broken part behind the slider to further reinforce the cross piece and trimmed it where necessary for clearance to allow the canopy to slide back and forth. You can't see the repairs made to the canopy from outside and it will resist slipstream forces better now. I also had to buy some carbon fiber rod from the LHS to make the front alignment pin that was lost when the canopy was ripped off of the plane. It was not an exact fit but I chucked a piece into a drill motor and sanded it down until I had a good tight fit in the frames.A test flight was next and it all worked OK so, to avoid having this failure I recommend that you install reinforcements under the rear slider and hope that the front pieces won't fail. I will replace all of these parts with real wood when I build the new canopy kit for a spare part.
02-12-2017, 02:45 AM
#1460
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: chadwell st maryessex, UNITED KINGDOM
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Hi in the list of required parts (not included) there are two 10-32 swivel Clovis horns HAN3615 but can't find any information in the manual of where these go.
03-16-2017, 04:44 PM
#1466
Have any of you guys have a spare set of the wheels you'd sell? Also, have any of you sent back the gear doors inner and outer? The ones that came with my kit are really crummy. I sure hope this plane flies better than it assembles. I'm really thinking the TopRC Mustang is far superior to this plane. Are you listening Horizon? Besides all the small stuff, the manual is really el'stinko where the pictures are concerned. I'd hope that they would improve that moving forward.
03-16-2017, 05:29 PM
#1468
I use Dubro heavy duty servo arms with Hitec 5645 servos, one package should have what you need for 2 servos. My local hobby shop stocks them. My first plane had excellent gear doors, the second plane's doors are crap. I spent hours trying to make them fit. Don't try to heat them to bend them to shape,(like you can do with fiber glass parts) the heat will distort them,(made from crappy plastic) and they still won't fit. You could make a new set from ply in less time.In spite of the quality control issues (What quality control?), the plane is a great flying Mustang. I have bought my last plane from Horizon, I am now building a Jerry Bates P-51B (same size), and using a Vic Catalasan glass fuselage. The cost will be about the same, and my build quality is far better than the BOZOs who build the H9 Mustang. I have been assembling Giant Scale ARF models for 17 years, now the ARFs are behind me, I will build from kits or from plans like the Bates planes or Ziroli.
03-16-2017, 09:06 PM
#1470
Just pulled trigger on a gear door set. I just can't abide by the poor quality on the ones that came with the plane. I almost bought a new center section and may still. I understand certain issues but when the parts don't fit properly that's not good. Still waiting on wheels too and hope those come in soon.
Paul
Paul
03-17-2017, 12:53 AM
#1471
Be sure and wiggle each of the fiber glass control hinge blades, the factory omits roughing the gluing surface. They will break loose in flight, may cause a loss of control. Both of my planes landed with loose hinges after the first flights.The engine cowling mount tabs are attached to the plane with some weak sticky stuff, drill holes through them into the nose structure, then push toothpicks through with gorilla brown glue to secure the tabs. If a front tab shakes loose, the cowl will rub on the spinner backplate. Install a piece of good ply under the canopy's rear slider mount, the original is made from fake imitation wood and when it fails, the canopy will tear off in flight.After you experience the low speed handling, you will forget about the build problems.
03-17-2017, 04:44 AM
#1473
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Them, DENMARK
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I have this model but has not started building it yet.
If the model is so poor build quality but still it flies so well, would there be anything wrong in taking the model totally apart and create a set of personal drawings of the model and then build a copy from scratch? I mean, there are so many things to change on the model already, and I have some major internal changes I want to do myself, so having an ARF to create drawings from and then build one from scratch, that just seems very appealing to me. You could say I would create my own kit, but have access to the hard to do yourself stuff like canopy, cowl, landing gear ect.
If the model is so poor build quality but still it flies so well, would there be anything wrong in taking the model totally apart and create a set of personal drawings of the model and then build a copy from scratch? I mean, there are so many things to change on the model already, and I have some major internal changes I want to do myself, so having an ARF to create drawings from and then build one from scratch, that just seems very appealing to me. You could say I would create my own kit, but have access to the hard to do yourself stuff like canopy, cowl, landing gear ect.
03-17-2017, 11:13 AM
#1474
I have this model but has not started building it yet.
If the model is so poor build quality but still it flies so well, would there be anything wrong in taking the model totally apart and create a set of personal drawings of the model and then build a copy from scratch? I mean, there are so many things to change on the model already, and I have some major internal changes I want to do myself, so having an ARF to create drawings from and then build one from scratch, that just seems very appealing to me. You could say I would create my own kit, but have access to the hard to do yourself stuff like canopy, cowl, landing gear ect.
If the model is so poor build quality but still it flies so well, would there be anything wrong in taking the model totally apart and create a set of personal drawings of the model and then build a copy from scratch? I mean, there are so many things to change on the model already, and I have some major internal changes I want to do myself, so having an ARF to create drawings from and then build one from scratch, that just seems very appealing to me. You could say I would create my own kit, but have access to the hard to do yourself stuff like canopy, cowl, landing gear ect.
Paul