Using over the counter spay paint on Warbirds
04-17-2014, 04:20 AM
#51
[QUOTE=dbsonic;11782991]I really like Model Masters enamels too but they don't sell it in large amounts for the larger projects. or do they?
It really depends on what color you are looking for. Go to Tower Hobby and go thru there list of colors. They do sell the colors in 3oz cans. I was lucky enough to find the grey that i needed for my Comp-Arf p-47 when i painted mine. But the green had to be done using the 1/2oz bottles mixed together to get about 9oz's of paint total and then that was thinned out to a 1:1 mix ratio to give me 18oz's total.
It really depends on what color you are looking for. Go to Tower Hobby and go thru there list of colors. They do sell the colors in 3oz cans. I was lucky enough to find the grey that i needed for my Comp-Arf p-47 when i painted mine. But the green had to be done using the 1/2oz bottles mixed together to get about 9oz's of paint total and then that was thinned out to a 1:1 mix ratio to give me 18oz's total.
Last edited by Greg Wright; 04-17-2014 at 05:12 AM.
04-17-2014, 04:34 AM
#52
Lacquer is tough to paint over many common paints. Latex and alkyd enamels are among them. It can probably be done, by spraying several mist coats, letting the lacquer set up between coats.
I do not agre with the comments made in post 46. I frequently paint lacquer over non-catalyzed polycrillic and polyurethane. As I said, spraying lacquer over latex is an iffy proposition.
I looked up a definition for "AU paints" and came up empty.
As with all comments made on these forums, we have to be careful about what to believe, and what is bs.
This thread is a prime example, as there are conflicting statements being made.
With paint, being safe rather than sorry is the way to go. I suggest that anyone that reads something that they like in this thread, do careful test panels before proceeding to the airframe.
Making a mistake can lead to acdii's "wrinkle finish".
I do not agre with the comments made in post 46. I frequently paint lacquer over non-catalyzed polycrillic and polyurethane. As I said, spraying lacquer over latex is an iffy proposition.
I looked up a definition for "AU paints" and came up empty.
As with all comments made on these forums, we have to be careful about what to believe, and what is bs.
This thread is a prime example, as there are conflicting statements being made.
With paint, being safe rather than sorry is the way to go. I suggest that anyone that reads something that they like in this thread, do careful test panels before proceeding to the airframe.
Making a mistake can lead to acdii's "wrinkle finish".
04-17-2014, 05:57 AM
#54
Sport Pilot
I've seen some paint compatibility charts that contain incorrect information.
The easiest way to avoid problems is to stick with a single product line from start to finish.
We're modelers, though, and we can't seem to do that. LOL
Testing is the next best thing, but that can get expensive.
Since testing multiple product combinations is almost impossible for us, the best thing to do would be to search out individuals who's work you admire, and follow their techniques and use similar products. It's the closest thing to a guarantee available to us.
I've seen some paint compatibility charts that contain incorrect information.
The easiest way to avoid problems is to stick with a single product line from start to finish.
We're modelers, though, and we can't seem to do that. LOL
Testing is the next best thing, but that can get expensive.
Since testing multiple product combinations is almost impossible for us, the best thing to do would be to search out individuals who's work you admire, and follow their techniques and use similar products. It's the closest thing to a guarantee available to us.
04-17-2014, 06:56 AM
#55
[QUOTE=Ram-bro;11784856]Ram-bro,
I just use a paasche Dual action for the feathering of the edges. But for the main body parts i thru the paint into my HVLP spray gun and did the rest of the green with that. The Grey was straight out of the model master spray cans.
I just use a paasche Dual action for the feathering of the edges. But for the main body parts i thru the paint into my HVLP spray gun and did the rest of the green with that. The Grey was straight out of the model master spray cans.
04-17-2014, 01:00 PM
#56
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The original post was asking about painting using spray cans. If the plane is gas powered, you can use latex. Here is a spray can that is sold at Lowe's. The person at the counter told me that any custom latex color can be mixed to use in the can. Just ask whether the paint is ready to spray or if it has to be cut with water, alcohol or some other solvent. I haven't tried it; so test spray a surface before hitting the plane. If you don't have paint chips to scan for the mix, I can almost guarantee that there is a color in the house paint color selection that will match whatever camouflage color you have.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Preval-9-...-267/202533738
Brian
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Preval-9-...-267/202533738
Brian
Last edited by deatonbt; 04-17-2014 at 01:18 PM.
12-24-2014, 12:56 PM
#57
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I see rustoleum has camo paint in a spray can.
http://www.rustoleum.com/DigitalEncy...ts/camouflage/
http://www.rustoleum.com/DigitalEncy...ts/camouflage/
12-25-2014, 06:58 AM
#58
Sport Pilot
I've seen some paint compatibility charts that contain incorrect information.
The easiest way to avoid problems is to stick with a single product line from start to finish.
We're modelers, though, and we can't seem to do that. LOL
Testing is the next best thing, but that can get expensive.
Since testing multiple product combinations is almost impossible for us, the best thing to do would be to search out individuals who's work you admire, and follow their techniques and use similar products. It's the closest thing to a guarantee available to us.
I've seen some paint compatibility charts that contain incorrect information.
The easiest way to avoid problems is to stick with a single product line from start to finish.
We're modelers, though, and we can't seem to do that. LOL
Testing is the next best thing, but that can get expensive.
Since testing multiple product combinations is almost impossible for us, the best thing to do would be to search out individuals who's work you admire, and follow their techniques and use similar products. It's the closest thing to a guarantee available to us.
12-27-2014, 09:10 PM
#59
From a custom painter... My name is Rod, and I do custom show cars and bike,,,,and sometimes a plane...lol...MANY times... Dupla color was VERY good about 5 years ago, I think they changed the stuff!! it doesnt work worth a damn now!! I used it on glow and gas, with no problem, and now it seems to be a fail no matter what I do...if you wanted to paint the corsair, go to the local Jobber' Paint store for automotive. but a basecoat/clearcoat product... dont need spendy,, but it WILL work and hold up to glow or gas...if you spill glow on your car, it don't ruin it right?? well its the same stuff... "I just know how RCU is, someone will question it".. its not a spray can though... keep it clean.... for the clear,,,,find a product call 2K.... the clear comes in flat or gloss,,,READ the instructions on the can!!! it has to be activated..
http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=361&L=1
GOOD STUFF for the do it yourself-er
NOW..... you CAN use dupla-color THEN 2K over it....LIGHT COATS. I would put 2 light coats on, let sit over night,,,then clear first thing in the morning.....2K will be good for 24 hours I think, again, read the can!! if you want the flat look. use 2k flat, and do the same steps... you will have one hell of a nice corsair!!!...
http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=361&L=1
GOOD STUFF for the do it yourself-er
NOW..... you CAN use dupla-color THEN 2K over it....LIGHT COATS. I would put 2 light coats on, let sit over night,,,then clear first thing in the morning.....2K will be good for 24 hours I think, again, read the can!! if you want the flat look. use 2k flat, and do the same steps... you will have one hell of a nice corsair!!!...
J
12-27-2014, 09:49 PM
#60
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I've seen it offered here through an auto parts store that is associated with napa. These 2k clears they are great, but you'll want to a serious respirator system when using these.
And AU means automotive urethane like you see on the Omni products from PPG. Nice paint but not the greatest palette for color matching. easy to use though.
And AU means automotive urethane like you see on the Omni products from PPG. Nice paint but not the greatest palette for color matching. easy to use though.
12-28-2014, 02:27 PM
#63
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I have had superb luck with Tamiya "AS" paints. Yes they are made for the plastic modelers, but by far the best lay out of a rattle can. Although it may seem rather expensive at aound 6 bucks for a can (they are the smaller cans), I can paint a 1/4 scale warbird for about 80 bucks worth. they sel the same colors in the small ML bottles so you can put it in your airbrush for touchup if need be. Remember, the "color" coat should be the lightest coat in my opinion (if you sprayed an aluminum or silver base) Hit the rivets and panel lines with some 0000 steel wool and wala! After its all said and done I hit it with lustricote flat clear coat. Been running the below FW190 for 6 years now...paint looks the same as it did when I first sprayed it.
Bubs
Bubs
