TopRCModel FW-190
#1001
My Feedback: (3)
Hi guys! PROST!
Working on my FW-190 project. I went with the new style Robart Pneumatic gear and a DLE-111 for power.
I have ran into an issue with the tail gear......
I noticed that if you tension your tailwheel wires to the servo in the GEAR DOWN position....like I have alway done.......you will need more slack when the tail wheel is commanded UP! Not sure if ROBART designed this correctly? Usually the tiller arm moves closer to the servo arm when retracted but not true with this design????
Anyone?
I thank you in advance! The plane looks great, not a fan of the TOP RC build/hardwre/ or lack of assembly manual (online I know but even that is weak) I am looking at the Corsair pretty close but will hold onto my money as I have some concerns over quality...... I miss TOPFLITE ARFs and the old HANGAR 9 stuff.....and Aeroworks! but I digress!
Working on my FW-190 project. I went with the new style Robart Pneumatic gear and a DLE-111 for power.
I have ran into an issue with the tail gear......
I noticed that if you tension your tailwheel wires to the servo in the GEAR DOWN position....like I have alway done.......you will need more slack when the tail wheel is commanded UP! Not sure if ROBART designed this correctly? Usually the tiller arm moves closer to the servo arm when retracted but not true with this design????
Anyone?
I thank you in advance! The plane looks great, not a fan of the TOP RC build/hardwre/ or lack of assembly manual (online I know but even that is weak) I am looking at the Corsair pretty close but will hold onto my money as I have some concerns over quality...... I miss TOPFLITE ARFs and the old HANGAR 9 stuff.....and Aeroworks! but I digress!
#1002
My Feedback: (6)
I have a Sierra TW and I can say that I needed to make a mockup of the Tailwheel former and figure out where the wires need to come through that to make the wires less taught when retracted. In my case it was two issues.
1. The range of motion on the whole tailwheel was way more than needed (say 120 degrees) but when the air cly was attached it reduced the motion to about 70 degrees. Your system is likely all one unit so this wouldn't be an issue.
2. Then you need to figure out where the steering wires need to come through former so that the wires are taught when extended and looser when retracted. In my case the wires came through the former about 1/2" above the retract unit itself.
I wouldn't recommend doing this in the airplane. The wood isn't high grade stuff and making it look like Swiss cheese as you experiment won't help.
Sparky
1. The range of motion on the whole tailwheel was way more than needed (say 120 degrees) but when the air cly was attached it reduced the motion to about 70 degrees. Your system is likely all one unit so this wouldn't be an issue.
2. Then you need to figure out where the steering wires need to come through former so that the wires are taught when extended and looser when retracted. In my case the wires came through the former about 1/2" above the retract unit itself.
I wouldn't recommend doing this in the airplane. The wood isn't high grade stuff and making it look like Swiss cheese as you experiment won't help.
Sparky
#1004
#1005
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Tvedestrand, NORWAY
Posts: 56
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Thanks totto,
I'm going to be flying my FW with the Saito 90 using a Biella German style 3-bladed 20-10.
Your video with the Saito looked awesome. Why the change to the Moki? Were you looking to swing a bigger 3-bladed German style prop?
Did you try any German style props with the Saito 90?
I'm looking for some feedback.
jim
I'm going to be flying my FW with the Saito 90 using a Biella German style 3-bladed 20-10.
Your video with the Saito looked awesome. Why the change to the Moki? Were you looking to swing a bigger 3-bladed German style prop?
Did you try any German style props with the Saito 90?
I'm looking for some feedback.
jim
Thanks !
Well, the Saito 90 works ok with the FW, but i felt it became a bit underpowered. Just tried it with the 2 blade Xoar 24/10 propeller. No other props.
The changement to Moki 180 is just night and day. Its a perfect combination for the model (also Moki 150 or similar engines i guess).
And...combination with the Ramoser props.
#1006
Looks like mine is all wrapped up!! Going to crank her up tomorrow and see how the Moki 150 runs. I weighed and balanced the plane (3 scale method) and came up w a final weight of 36.8 lbs dry (w a 32oz Dubro tank). The prop is a beila 26-16 FW three blade. Here is a link to how I weighed my plane https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9EgC6r...ature=youtu.be
Left Main Weight
Right Main Weight
Tail Weight
Side view of leveled aircraft
Came w/in an 1/8” of recommended CG
Left Main Weight
Right Main Weight
Tail Weight
Side view of leveled aircraft
Came w/in an 1/8” of recommended CG
Last edited by jraycut; 08-08-2020 at 04:29 AM.
#1007
My Feedback: (6)
I just put two more flights on mine today so I'm up to 3 flights total.
Impressions:
I need lots of aileron throw to get 3 rolls in 5 seconds.
The elevator doesn't need the throw specified
Landings are really nice and it will fly much slower than expected.
I haven't tried flaps for the landing yet.
Stalls ( at altitude) are no surprise it eventually drops the right wing.
The elevator trim for hands off high speed flight requires LOTS of down elevator this is an incidence issue out of the assembler's control.
Mine looks like the bottom of the elevator is level with the bottom of the horizontal Stabilizer. A problem we encountered with our USRA racers not enough down elevator incidence in the configuration of the airplane. I haven't measured mine but we found 3 degree leading edge high was about right with our go fast airplane.
The landing gear doors need to be shortened by at least 1" if you fly from grass.
I was two pointing a T&G and tore off part of the gear door,
I hadn't cut the door 1" shorter with it in the 2 point attitude but in the 3 point att.
I think the plane will fly great with the CG aft of the specified location.
I think Ill pull 3 OZ from under the hood.
Sparky
Impressions:
I need lots of aileron throw to get 3 rolls in 5 seconds.
The elevator doesn't need the throw specified
Landings are really nice and it will fly much slower than expected.
I haven't tried flaps for the landing yet.
Stalls ( at altitude) are no surprise it eventually drops the right wing.
The elevator trim for hands off high speed flight requires LOTS of down elevator this is an incidence issue out of the assembler's control.
Mine looks like the bottom of the elevator is level with the bottom of the horizontal Stabilizer. A problem we encountered with our USRA racers not enough down elevator incidence in the configuration of the airplane. I haven't measured mine but we found 3 degree leading edge high was about right with our go fast airplane.
The landing gear doors need to be shortened by at least 1" if you fly from grass.
I was two pointing a T&G and tore off part of the gear door,
I hadn't cut the door 1" shorter with it in the 2 point attitude but in the 3 point att.
I think the plane will fly great with the CG aft of the specified location.
I think Ill pull 3 OZ from under the hood.
Sparky
Last edited by elmshoot; 08-07-2020 at 06:34 PM.
The following users liked this post:
scottme262 (08-07-2020)
#1008
hey Sparky - good info and congrats on the successful flights! Maybe w the weight coming out and a possible mix of elevator to throttle will help w the high speed flight. My CG came in just behind the recommended location of 6.6", so ill leave it there for now.
Anyone else have any flight characteristics/mixing that they felt was needed w the plane?
Joe
Anyone else have any flight characteristics/mixing that they felt was needed w the plane?
Joe
#1012
I visually set the airplane at flying level. Reason being is I believe the incidences on the wings and stabs are not set at zero. I did set the meter on the stab to zero but it was too tail high....I resorted back to visually setting the aircraft at flying level.
Last edited by jraycut; 08-09-2020 at 06:00 AM.
#1014
Ready for maiden!
Hey guys, thought I would drop in and report on the first (first run for me) on the Moki 150. I was able to get her outside the other day and got the engine going. The engine is used - but new to me. When I received it the engine, I replaced all the plugs, set the valves, and ensured everything was tight. Once I got fuel to the carb, the engine started right up w no effort! I’m still playing w the needles, but it’s running like a top w a very reliable idle that can be slowed way down! I’m using a Beila 26-16 FW190 prop and Tru Turn spinner. Today, I plan to do some more engine running w the cowl on. So far- I’m very pleased. I would upload a video of the engine running, but it won’t allow a video clip from my phone - I guess I have to create a you tube acct and then post it(?)
Last edited by jraycut; 08-14-2020 at 05:13 AM.
#1018
Boy, that sounds great.
No baffles? Very little exit air. Are you concerned about over heating?
Jeeeez, that Moki sound awesome!!! Plus, you're swinging a more scale looking prop.
jim
No baffles? Very little exit air. Are you concerned about over heating?
Jeeeez, that Moki sound awesome!!! Plus, you're swinging a more scale looking prop.
jim
#1019
Thanks guys! I’m super excited about the whole project 👍
Yes, I do have a baffle. I am going to make the holes around around the exhaust a little larger than what they currently are; coupled w the openings on the side of the fuse and the opening at the top of the firewall; I’m hoping that should suffice. Looking at other installations w the Moki’s (and other radials), I have about the same opening for exhaust. It’s not ideal to run any engine for a long length of time on the ground (Cowled, Baffled or not). True test will be in the air I set the max RPM to 4300 on the ground - should unload nicely in the air. There is a rev limiter (6000 rpm) on the CH ignition to prevent potential over revs.
Went over the airplane this morning and confirmed all rates, conditions, etc are where they need to be. Will fire the engine up in a little while to confirm all is good. Got everything I need set aside (extra plugs, temp gun, etc) Will set a throttle curve according to how the engine responds in the air.
Yes, I do have a baffle. I am going to make the holes around around the exhaust a little larger than what they currently are; coupled w the openings on the side of the fuse and the opening at the top of the firewall; I’m hoping that should suffice. Looking at other installations w the Moki’s (and other radials), I have about the same opening for exhaust. It’s not ideal to run any engine for a long length of time on the ground (Cowled, Baffled or not). True test will be in the air I set the max RPM to 4300 on the ground - should unload nicely in the air. There is a rev limiter (6000 rpm) on the CH ignition to prevent potential over revs.
Went over the airplane this morning and confirmed all rates, conditions, etc are where they need to be. Will fire the engine up in a little while to confirm all is good. Got everything I need set aside (extra plugs, temp gun, etc) Will set a throttle curve according to how the engine responds in the air.
Last edited by jraycut; 08-15-2020 at 09:26 AM.
#1020
Thanks guys! I’m super excited about the whole project 👍
Yes, I do have a baffle. I am going to make the holes around around the exhaust a little larger than what they currently are; coupled w the openings on the side of the fuse and the opening at the top of the firewall; I’m hoping that should suffice. Looking at other installations w the Moki’s (and other radials), I have about the same opening for exhaust. It’s not ideal to run any engine for a long length of time on the ground (Cowled, Baffled or not). True test will be in the air I set the max RPM to 4300 on the ground - should unload nicely in the air. There is a rev limiter (6000 rpm) on the CH ignition to prevent potential over revs.
Went over the airplane this morning and confirmed all rates, conditions, etc are where they need to be. Will fire the engine up in a little while to confirm all is good. Got everything I need set aside (extra plugs, temp gun, etc) Will set a throttle curve according to how the engine responds in the air.
Yes, I do have a baffle. I am going to make the holes around around the exhaust a little larger than what they currently are; coupled w the openings on the side of the fuse and the opening at the top of the firewall; I’m hoping that should suffice. Looking at other installations w the Moki’s (and other radials), I have about the same opening for exhaust. It’s not ideal to run any engine for a long length of time on the ground (Cowled, Baffled or not). True test will be in the air I set the max RPM to 4300 on the ground - should unload nicely in the air. There is a rev limiter (6000 rpm) on the CH ignition to prevent potential over revs.
Went over the airplane this morning and confirmed all rates, conditions, etc are where they need to be. Will fire the engine up in a little while to confirm all is good. Got everything I need set aside (extra plugs, temp gun, etc) Will set a throttle curve according to how the engine responds in the air.
#1022
I stopped going in on the needle when it got around 45-4600. Reason being is because I know the prop is going to unload even more in the air and do not want to push the engine unnecessarily and even come close to 6000rpm. If the aircraft was heavy I would tweak for max. I know these Moki’s are about torque, not RPM...so I’m anxious to see how the prop performs.
What're you turning?
What're you turning?
#1025
Maiden flight took place over this past weekend. Here are some observations;
1) no need to worry about the camber on the mains. I got worked up over this as there was some talk/concern about being too much toe in - the aircraft tracked beautifully during low and high speed taxis.
2) plane scooted around nicely at half throttle, when the throttle was increased past this setting the aircraft wanted to climb.
3) landings were as easy as the takeoffs (until you take your off the plane, lol)
4) mid flap deployment caused the plane to balloon...going to mix elevator to flap to correct this - but even w no flaps; landing was slow, easy and predictable.
here’s a few shots of the plane from the field.
1) no need to worry about the camber on the mains. I got worked up over this as there was some talk/concern about being too much toe in - the aircraft tracked beautifully during low and high speed taxis.
2) plane scooted around nicely at half throttle, when the throttle was increased past this setting the aircraft wanted to climb.
3) landings were as easy as the takeoffs (until you take your off the plane, lol)
4) mid flap deployment caused the plane to balloon...going to mix elevator to flap to correct this - but even w no flaps; landing was slow, easy and predictable.
here’s a few shots of the plane from the field.
Last edited by jraycut; 08-19-2020 at 11:50 AM.