TopRCModel FW-190
#1651
Bit more weathering and application of the red band over the cowl latches.
Will tackle the other wing later today, got to do a service on the old Landrover D3 first. Trip into town for a filter and some Penrite HPR5 5W-40 first.
Wind has been blowing a gale last few days and not looking good for tomorrow either so will be a day in the shed.
cya later lurkers
me
Not too bad for 10 minutes work. I do have the scale exhausts I could fit but they will restrict the hot air from engine too much.
Bit of smudging of soot around the barrels
Will tackle the other wing later today, got to do a service on the old Landrover D3 first. Trip into town for a filter and some Penrite HPR5 5W-40 first.
Wind has been blowing a gale last few days and not looking good for tomorrow either so will be a day in the shed.
cya later lurkers
me
Not too bad for 10 minutes work. I do have the scale exhausts I could fit but they will restrict the hot air from engine too much.
Bit of smudging of soot around the barrels
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gixer47 (10-27-2023)
#1652
Did that soot and exhaust area using Tamiya weathering powders, come with little brush / sponge applicators. I have the full set of them.
Only thing left is engine run and test flight. I need to get some stick time in though on my warbird hack, an old composite P47 85" span which I acquired for just that purpose. It will take a bit of punishment.
Below is done with cheap kids water colour paints. Don't like the effect then rub is off and start over, too much take a slight damp tissue and wipe it down, very easy and fast. This is about 10 minutes work with a bit of drying time on top.
More work in the fuz, had to mask off the decals and then hit them with some rattle can rustoleum ultra matt clear, yes I made sure I had clear this time
Then same process as the wing using water based paints, apply, wipe off, try something else.
Only thing left is engine run and test flight. I need to get some stick time in though on my warbird hack, an old composite P47 85" span which I acquired for just that purpose. It will take a bit of punishment.
Below is done with cheap kids water colour paints. Don't like the effect then rub is off and start over, too much take a slight damp tissue and wipe it down, very easy and fast. This is about 10 minutes work with a bit of drying time on top.
More work in the fuz, had to mask off the decals and then hit them with some rattle can rustoleum ultra matt clear, yes I made sure I had clear this time
Then same process as the wing using water based paints, apply, wipe off, try something else.
#1653
ok did engine ground run, still have it a bit on the rich side.
Idle is 850 rpm, top end is just over 5000 rpm using the vario prop 3 blade, 22.8" x 14 "
It will unload in the air to over to over 6000 rpm.
Temps are still a bit high but hopefully in the air it will get additional cool airflow through. It will fly nicely at around 3500 - 4000 rpm and that is a good range for this engine without taxing it too much.
We shall see.
only job left is to make a transport stand
A few youtube vids of obligatory taxi work in the back yard. One vid I had my finger over the camera lens, oops
It got about an hour of ground running, taxiing about and various throttle settings which will help get it further bedded in.
Those temps climb quickly with the tap wide open.
Idle is 850 rpm, top end is just over 5000 rpm using the vario prop 3 blade, 22.8" x 14 "
It will unload in the air to over to over 6000 rpm.
Temps are still a bit high but hopefully in the air it will get additional cool airflow through. It will fly nicely at around 3500 - 4000 rpm and that is a good range for this engine without taxing it too much.
We shall see.
only job left is to make a transport stand
A few youtube vids of obligatory taxi work in the back yard. One vid I had my finger over the camera lens, oops
It got about an hour of ground running, taxiing about and various throttle settings which will help get it further bedded in.
Those temps climb quickly with the tap wide open.
Last edited by planenutzz; 10-29-2023 at 01:48 PM.
#1654
Hey mister plane nutzz, nice work on this model! I have a Century Jet Models Hawker SeaFury. Pretty close to same dimensions and is also all composite construction. She weighed in at 36lbs, only 1 lbs higher than the manufacturer claimed. It is interesting to me the manufacturer of the TopRc FW claims 30-36 lbs. Can you identify anything you might have added to the airframe to come in at 43lbs or do you think the manufacturer is just FOS?
thank you sir!!
thank you sir!!
#1655
major reinforcement of wing tube area including plywood triplers
full cockpit & pilot - mostly behind CG
sliding canopy using linear actuator which is all behind CG.
All adds weight and any weight behind CG creates nose weight to compensate
Think my AUW dry is 41 lbs.
Should be ok, my Vailly seafury is 44lbs and flies fine. 90" wing but much wider chord and a deeper airfoil section than the 95" span of the 190.
if you build straight from the box with no additions then 36lbs is about right. Depending on engine choice. The Saito is not as heavy compared to some 2 strokes.
full cockpit & pilot - mostly behind CG
sliding canopy using linear actuator which is all behind CG.
All adds weight and any weight behind CG creates nose weight to compensate
Think my AUW dry is 41 lbs.
Should be ok, my Vailly seafury is 44lbs and flies fine. 90" wing but much wider chord and a deeper airfoil section than the 95" span of the 190.
if you build straight from the box with no additions then 36lbs is about right. Depending on engine choice. The Saito is not as heavy compared to some 2 strokes.
Last edited by planenutzz; 11-02-2023 at 03:21 PM.
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apereira (02-22-2024)
#1662
Has been discussed,have a look back at post #963. From what I've read the Sierra has a lot of toe in and the only way to straighten is to bend the axles. Another owner has flown with the large toe in and reported no problems with ground handling. I'm still building mine but doesn't look like a problem.
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maddog-RCU (03-17-2024)