CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

After I composed all of the above, I discovered that at least 2 RCU members have written posts concerning wing failures that they encountered. Both in flight failures occured at the inboard side of a retract bay, and are the result of a poorly designed main spar, IMO.
That said, I intend to do some fiberglass re-inforcing of those areas, good thing I have stripped the covering.

The picture was taken by fellow RCU member "oncebitten", who allowed me to show it here for all to see. It shows where the main spar seperated from the retract bay, causing the wing to fail.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Sorry for the hugh delay in getting back to this topic. I have the modified Hanger 9 Cosair project nearly completed and ready for paint. I was in such a hurry to get it done that I didn't take the time to post updates. I did take pictures along the way tho, and will post them along with dialogue within the next few months.
In the mean time, I recently purchased a RTF H9 Corsair thru an RCUnverse ad. It came with Saito .91 & 3 blade M.A. 14 x 7 already installed (and broken in) and all necessary radio gear. All I had to do was install my ch. 42 rx x'tal into the Futaba 127DF and it was ready to go. I did take the time tho, to modify the retracts by installing heavy duty ball links. I also removed the wheel wells and painted the exposed balsa Corsair Blue.
It also came equipped with a Dubro remote glow plug recept and fuel filler. As such, it weighed 130.5 oz. By substituting nylon wing attachment bolts for the standard, metal allen screws, I was able to get the weight down to less than 130 oz. (8 lbs., 2 oz.)
This new Corsair will povide me with a comparison fo my modified Hanger 9 Cosair.
I brought the new one home on Saturday and was flying it Monday. The engine/ prop combination proved to be more than adequate for me, and I can't see why everyone thinks you need the Saito 1.00 for this plane. It only adds more weight and protrudes out of the cowl more.
I got in 2 flights, then had to get ready for work. I flew it from a softball field. Well mowed, but not the smoothest. Unlike the Hanger 9 Mustangs which I have seen ( and flown), there was very little tendency to nose over during landing rollouts and taxiing. All in all, I was very pleased with the flight performance. The landing gear tho, is still very suspect. Altho I took out all the slop ( by tightening set screws), there was slop again after the 2 landings. I want to retain the mechanical retracts on this one, but don't want to invest a lot of money doing so. Next up: I will be installing RoboStruts on the wire struts, and lighter but larger Dave Brown wheels.
As for my highly modified Hanger 9 Corsair: I have decided to install a Royal cockpit kit along with a Luke's instrument panel. Also, I WILL be making the flaps functional.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Here is a (somewhat blurry) closer view of the wheel well AFTER I removed the previously installed gray plastic whell well covers, and painted with Pactra/ AeroGloss Corsair blue.
I can think of several reasons why the plastic ones should NOT be installed:

1) You will need to reomve them anyway, if (WHEN) you need to adjust and/or reove the retracts for maintenance.
2) It LOOKS better/ more scale. even if you decide to paint the plastic ones to match. Real corsairs have open wheels wells.
3) There is more room, allowing you to install wheels at least one size larger. Standard wheels are 3 1/4" diameter. Scale size is 4". A good choice would be Dave Brown threaded 3 1/2" wheels, which are larger yet lighter than the standard wheels. I have a set of these on order, and will hopefully install them this coming weekend.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

An RCU member sent the following PM to me:


"ORIGINAL: WoodyAldrich

I have some questions for CorsairJock - I just bought a Hangar 9 Corsair, and will begin assembly soon. I was thinking of using a Saito 91.... I saw in a post that you feel that the Saito 91 has plenty of power... do you still feel that way ? What prop are you using ? Do you think the Saito 91 would turn a 3-bladed prop Ok ? How is the engine mounted (upside down, 90 degrees to right, or ?)? Was the builder of the plane able to mount the Saito 91 in the pre-drilled holes, or did he have to make new holes in the firewall ? If the engine is mounted with the head below the horizontal, do you have any problems with glow plug getting flooded at low power settings ?

I also understand that you are using the 'stock' retracts, and with addition of stronger ball joints - are they still working Ok ? or are you going to replace them with stonger ones , like CJ ?

Would you have any other comments for me ? (I'm aware of the firewall, wing, and tailwheel/rudder assembly prodcedure issues.)

Thanks a million, Woody Aldrich"


My reply:

Woody,
I've flown it another 6 times since I posted that message, and I still feel the same way: the Saito .91 is more than enough. If you read the review in RC Report; theirs is Saito 1.00 powered and they report that it has more power than needed.
Unless you intend to fly this in a very unscale like manner, the .91 works great. In fact, I would venture that the Saito .72 OR the new .82 would work well also (but with a 2 blade prop).

I have a Master Airscrew 3 blade 14 x 7 on mine, it also works great.
The engine is mounted with the jug at about the 7:30 position, as viewed from the front. This means more inverted than upright. No onboard ignition, and it has given me absolutely no problems. I set the idle at about 2,500, wich is probably a little higher than it could be, but it gives me some room for error, and has not died on me unexpectedly (except 1 time when I ran it out of fuel). The muffler protrudes from the bottom of the cowl, no additional holes in the fuselage itself. I haven't looked into whether or not the builder drilled additional holes.
I have no intention of replacing the retracts on this one, but I will continue to look into ways of improving them. They are still holding up well despite landing and takeoffs from a somewhat rough field (it has not been rolled, and is somewhat bumpy).
I have a second Hanger 9 Corsair (actually, my 1st), which I am performing extensive modifications to, including installation of CJ retracts. Thus my reason for wanting to keep the current one as stock as possible: to give the modified one something to compare it to.

As for the other issues: mine came fully assembled, and I don't want to take it apart to modify the firewall. Maybe by using the Saito .91, and not using it's full potentetial ( don't really need full throttle), it will be OK. As for the wing breakage issue: I intend to fly in a scale manner, which means no hi stress manuvers such as snap rolls.
As for the rudder: on my previous Corsairs I have found that Corsair rudders are very suseptible to damage from tip overs, and I usually strengthen them. I am sure that a violent tip over will damage (break) this one also. Such tipovers can occur when the wheels encounter a varmit hole, OR if a set screw comes loose and allows the wheel to rotate (and act like a locked brake), or sometimes even the occasional bad landing (or so I've heard).
If it happens, I will repair and strenghten, but will leave as is in the meantime.

.............Jim

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

Well I finally Got a chance to fly my H-9 Corsair and it flies great with an OS Max .60.
I did have to move the battery forward and add weight to the nose. I did a standard servo in the fuse setup with arowshaft linkages.
I had a problem with the retracts one thing the ball links kept snapping loose and the wheels would turn sideways,
followed by disaster!!!!
My plane flies flawless with no trim changes needed at all.
Lands well, but the gear was wobbly and I think Ill change it out.
Dennis

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

This addresses the number 1 mod that should be performed on EVERY Hanger 9 Corsair, even if you don't do anything else.

Got an e-mail from 'biker02uc'

"Hi Jim,

I read a post stating you found a better linkage for the gear. I have
found better ball links but they do not provide enough pivot angle.
Would you share what you are using. I may go to cj retracts eventually but
for now I am down and locked until I find something suitable.

Jim"

My responce:

"The 'heavy duty' ball links that I installed are from Hobby Lobby, and sell for $.85 a pair. They are Hobby Lobby part number HLH519.
Actually, I used only the black plastic (nylon?) parts, after removing the brass balls and installing them onto the original Hanger 9 (chrome?) balls.
These plastic links slip right onto the existing balls, but cover about twice as much of their surface and are not nearly as prone to popping off as the original links are.
I had to shorten them some; using an Exacto knife to cut off some of the ends into which the threaded rod goes into. Use the old ones for reference.
I also had to remove a small area of material from the metal retract housing, for additional clearance needed with the thicker links. I used a Dremel with cut-off wheel to cut off this area, then used a fine file to smooth the edges.
Many other people (as in the vast majority?) are using Dubro heavy duty links. I am sure these work just as well, I just happened to place an order thru Hobby Lobby (for other items) at about the same time I realized the need for some heavy duty links, so I ordered from them.
The main thing is: the Hanger 9 links are small, and pop off the balls way too easily. This simple mod makes life much easier for Hanger 9 Corsair owners."

On another note: I just installed a pair Dave Brown 3 1/2" treaded lite wheels on my 'standard' Hanger 9 Corsair. They fit into the wheel wells with room to spare, and are 18 grams lighter (per pair) than the 3 1/4" wheels that I removed. The Dave Browns are also softer, and able to absord the ground bumps a little better.

drdoom

My Feedback: (9)

I switched mine over to schluter Ball linkages last night that I had from the old Chopper days.
I hope that they will stay put. much better grip on the ball.
May get out thursday evening.
thanks for the tip.
Dennis

ZapRC

Here is one I built with the "WAR BEAT'N LOOK" Yea I know the pilot isn't scale or even the right nationality but he is bailing out soon to be replaced by a REAL pilot. Enjoy.

I installed the Saito 90 3 cly radial engine with a 12X7 APC prop (recommended by Saito) By the way it flys it is the wrong prop. What prop should be used with this engine and plane combo ?? I was thinking about a 14X6 or 4

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

I too had the saito 3 cyl in my H9 corsair.. It is not the prop. It is an underpowered motor. It just has too much weight for the motor, altho it souds great. You will not get the power you think you should. It barely pulls the plane around. And there is nothing leftover for powering out of trouble. But it sounds great. but it sounds great.

YNOT

I was the pilot on that flight. It has plenty of power. Its not racing fast, however flys the plane very very well. Very scale takeoff, off grass. I am sure off pavement it will be beter.

I will say, it did have me a bit concerned when it broke ground. I am glad I did not have to make a hard break or pull soon after liftoff. Once the gear came up it was OK.

We are going to play with props and see if there is more performance, however if there is no increase in performance, it will still be a great flying bird. Sure would be nice to have a 3 or 4 blade that will fly the plane.

The sound is bad to the bone, almost makes me want to go to warbirds.

Almost.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Well, at long last, I am ready to continue this post. The nice weather we had in October is gone, so my flying season may be over for this year. I now have about 20 ~ 30 flights on my second Hanger-9 Corsair, the one which I intend to keep as stock as possible.
So, I'll add some thoughts on this one:

Flying it is unlike all previous Corsairs that I have flown: it does NOT have the hugh roll left tendency at hi power/ low airspeed situations as my previous Corsairs had/ have. This means that it is much less likely to perform the dreaded torque roll to the left if it becomes airborn too quickly. This is all probably the result of the very noticeable right engine thrust, which I guestimated to be about 2 deg. Mine has lifted off a few times earlier than I planned, and no problems were encountered.

The landing gear as modified (with the HD links from Hobby Lobby) is holding up well, but the servo and control rods are really straining to get the gear up and down. I have a solution which I will perform and tell about a little later.
The Saito .91, coupled to a Master Airscrew 3 blade 14 x 7 provides all the power I need/ want for this bird. I don't even use full throttle, EVER, not even on take off (it becomes airborn quick enough). That 14" 3 blade prop looks pretty darn good, not quite scale size but not all that far off either.

Like every Corsair that I have owned, there is a tendency for it to flip over on it's back when it encounters 'bumps' in the runway, and/ or 'varmit' holes, and/ or landing gear problems. Unlike my unmodified Top Flite Corsairs, the rudder had not been damaged in the 3 times this has happened to me (I am flying this one mostly from a softball diamond, which has not been rolled/ leveled). This is probably because the design uses a one piece balsa post, from top to bottom. The Top Flite design has the post NOT going all the way to the top of the rudder, thereby making a weak area which is where the breaks usually occur. The fin however, is a fifferent story, and mine has broke all three times at the base. I had hoped it would last thru this flying season, but after the third time I had enough.

At first I thought I would re-inforce it, but then decided to make a new one out of solid balsa. I had some Sig 3/8" sheet balsa which I belt sanded to the thickness of the original fin (5/16"), cut to the same shape, and added a slight amount of taper (bottom to top). Suprisingly, this new uncovered fin weighs only 2 grams (less than 1/10 oz) more than the original uncovered one.
Shown is a picture of it on my digital scales.
This is a mod which I highly recommend to ALL H-9 Corsair ownwers, and it is easiest to do if you do it before assembly, but can be done to an already built one as I have done. I have read where others have experienced problems with the fin breaking, so it would be better to do it now (rather than repair later)

And now, about my first H-9 Corsair (the one that this post began about, the highly modified one):
I have aquired one of those super scale cockpit kits from Luke (Dionysusbachus) which I will be installing in the 1st Corsair. I have already begun, and taken a few pictures which I will post in a few days.
Thanks, Luke, and I intend to make this Corsair very deserving of such a great looking/ scale cockpit kit.

RCGirl

RE: The PK Props,

I just got off the phone with Phil from PK props. What a wonderful experience ! He shared some of available sizes and he's done props up to 4 1/2 feet in diameter !!! They come to you prebalanced, painted, and decaled, with a 1/4 " hole ready to drill to your spec. Turnaround is somewhere around 3 weeks.

In reply to the 15 1/2 X 7 for your 110, I don't know what the engine calls for, but with a fairly wide blade, X 3 plus a somewhat "fat" airfoil, I'm sure you would load your engine fairly heavily. I'll be running an RCV engine, and with it's 2 to 1 gearing, they call for a 15 3/4 X 13 if you run a 3 blade.

The info to reach Phil is:

Phil Kovar
PK Props
8316 Younkin Dr.
Milford, KS 66514
(785) 238-1679

His e-mail is: [email protected] PLEASE put something about "props" in the subject of any e-mails, otherwise he will delete them !!! (virus protection :-) )


Roxanne

evt

My Feedback: (1)

I had the same idea of stripping the H-9 corsair to look as scale as possible. I used Lukes thread and the tutorial site that Luke use to have that described his Royal corsair project to modify a Hanger-9 corsair . I made an F4U-2 night fighter out of it with the old style birdcage canopy I custom molded. Sliding canopy was made using Dions techniques along with outline modifications to the fuselage and tail group. Also used his glassing ideas on the fabric covered outer wing bays. The 50/50 thinner to resin and brushed on application is very light and is the best and easiest way to glass I have ever seen. I didn't go as far as having retracting tail wheel and gear covers but used his finishing and weathering ideas to full effect. I really liked what I turned out with as the plane flys quit well to. the H-9 has a very week wing an firewall that I structurally changed as I installed the flaps and fuse mods.
I just wanted to thank Luke for the logical, well described, and detail oriented ideas he has provided on making a smaller scale corsair look better with more scale accuracy than many of the big birds.

Thanks!! Ed

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

EVT: What an AWESOME (hardly describes it) looking Hanger 9 Corsair! And ZapRC: Your's is great looking also. I just wish I had the time/ patience/ talent to draw/ airbrush all those panel lines and other details. I'm sure both of these Corsair draw a LOT of attention at the field, or anywhere you diplay them.

The Hanger 9 Corsair project that this post was started on has been again put on the back burner, but I would like to complete by summer. I do have 2 other Hanger 9 Corsairs now tho: both RTF. One has been converted to electric power and weighs less than 8 lbs with batteries. I will post some pics and more info on that at a leter date, when I have had the chance to fly it. Currently tho, winter just keeps hanging on here in SW Michigan

In the mean time, someone asked me (somewhere, in another post?) to post pics of my dual retract servo installation in my Saito .91 powered Hanger 9 Corsair, so here they are. This is my somewhat stock/ standard Hanger 9 Corsair that I began flying late last summer. I fly it from a pretty rough field, so I decided to add RoboStruts. Problem is, the single servo seemed to be doing all it could just to cycle the standard set-up, I felt the additional weight (of RoboStrut) would make it even more difficult so I decoded to use a different retract servo set-up: using a seperate servo for each of the mains. I eliminated the bellcranks and long linkage in doing so.

After several hours of using Dremel/ sanding disc and Xacto knife to remove material and trial fit a new retract servo mounting plate, I eventually gave up and decided to just glue the servos into place. There isn't a lot of room in the area, and mounting plates would have taken up more, thus the reason for using thick CA and epoxy/ microballon mix to just glue them in. The new setup performs flawlessly. One of the retract servos has seen a lot of use: it was in my DynaFlite Corsair and must have cycled the gear about 1500 times. So now, it is in semi-retirement, as it only has to acuate on landing gear leg. The other retract servo is the one that came with the plane when I bought (used, RTF).

As you might notice by looking at the final picture, I also modified the retract housings by removing some un-necessary metal. This removed about 7 grams (total from 2 retracts), AND makes it better looking and with less drag. I will eventually paint it Corsair Blue to match/ blend in better.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Hiding the Tail Servos:
Here are pics of my recently completed, but not flown yet Hanger 9 Electric Powered Corsair. I have modified it so that the rudder and elevator seros are completely hidden, as well at the linkages. The servo in the picture is for rudder/ tailwheel. The elevator servo is installed in a hatch, which is screwed into the opening which was intended for the rudder servo. I used a Sig elevator joiner with horn to connect the elevators and allow a completely hidden linkage. The original chunk of balsa which was attached to the bottom, aft of the tailwheel, has been hollowed (lightened) and transformed into a removable/ bolt on (small nylon screw) hatch.
The servos used are mini/ hi torque ones, which have the same torque as standard size but weigh half as much and are more compact
Also note that I have cut out the area for the arrestor hook, altho I have not made up an arrestor hook yet.

AirScharnell

Hello Gent's

You have stated your re enforcing the firewall on this bird ?
Could you tell me what size glass your using ?
And how far back your laying the glass?

I have one of the older kits that I'm putting together and would like too get done right the 1st time.

I commend all your time and input on these nice looking planes.

Frank

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

It's a judgement call. 5 oz cloth is strong but somewhat heavy. 2 oz cloth is lighter but not as strong. In any case, any glass is better than no glass. Lay the glass as far back as you can. The idea is to hold the firewall to the front of the fuse. There is a long thread in the ARF section on this plane. You might want to check it out.

AirScharnell

Thanks for the input ........
I'll look in the ARF sections for that thread

Frank

WILLIT RUN

Can you post a link to that beautiful prop of yours Thanks Flackbait

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

BUMP, and a note:
That AWESOME Corsair built by 'evt' is currently listed on ebay, but apparently not by him. I am attempting to find out the story on this (why 'evt' no longer has it).

The seller mistook it for a Hellcat, so if you are interested, do a "Hellcat" search.

Also, and by the way: my electric powered Hanger 9 Corsair won "Best Scale" award at 2005 Mid America Electric Fly, hosted by Ken Myer and Kieth Shaw.

Sorry I haven't added anything here lately, I had some pictures to post and lost them in cyberspace.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

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Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Congratulations on winning "Best Scale" well deserved.

Pete

prop wash

Hello Corsair jock.I met you at the Midwest Sunndowners War Bird day last Sat[16th] and I want to tell everyone here that you did a great job on your corsairs.I was impressed.I just could not get over how well your electric H9 flew.Outstanding.Tom

flyboy12

My Feedback: (57)

Corsairjock I was reading one of your threads and noticed that you wanted to see a flying formation of 4 or more r/c corsairs. Will my club has about 6 corsairs (4 or 5 H-9 my topflight) we have a squadrine just for these birds and that is what we are about to work on. Our feild has a 10,000 ft + long and 150 feet wide ruway to do our manuvers on I will keep you posted on our progress and try to get vedio footage of it.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

I am on my second H9 cor , made the following mods , hope to post pics this weekend
1)glassed inside wing as far as possible
2)built balsa /then glassed custom lined wheel wells
3)Land gear front door- plastic with o ring and spacers on CJ retracts
4)Zolner interior /cut to size
5)all air support/H55 servo carefully fitted to top of wing so no disconnects are needed -fits perfactly inside fuse
6)next need to remove decals , looking to do tri color scheme , need advice on where to buy new decals for the Tri color version please