Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
05-07-2004, 11:34 PM
#1
Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
I am starting this thread so that modifications and/ or ideas for the Hanger-9 Corsair ARF can be consolidated into place.
Some of you may remember me as the originator of a simular thread which concerned modifications to Top Flite .60 size/ 1/8 scale Corsairs. If you are not familiar with that thread and want to see it, click on this:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_96...corsair/tm.htm
I recently purchased a NIB Hanger-9 Corsair ARF from a fellow RCU member. For a variety of reasons, I will be performing extensive modifications to it, and will try to find the time to document and photograph those mods here. I welcome and encourage others to participate and contribute their ideas as well. I also welcome pictures of other Hanger-9 Corsairs, but PLEASE: lets keep the discussion and pictures focused on the Hanger-9 Corsair modifications only.
Here are some observations I had on the Hanger-9 Corsair prior to receiving the kit:
1) While some have chosen to install after market retracts (usually CenturyJet), those that have stuck with the originals are satisfied with their operation and durability. I therefor, intend use the originals, but will probably install RoboStruts on them and make provisions for installing an air retract system should I feel the need to install an air retract system at a later time.
2) There are concerns by other modelers about the robustness/ durability of the firewall, as there are concerns (and failures) with other Hanger-9 ARFs as well. Therefor I will look into this area and probably add some reinforcement.
1) & 2) above are based on what I have read here at RCUniverse.
3) The scheme/ finish on these kits is based on a full scale which was flying the air show circuit until it crashed about 1 1/2 years ago, killing it's pilot. This aircraft was an actual Korean War veteran, as the pilot/ owner. In case you don't know, most surviving warbirds never went to the combat areas, this Corsair was one of the few exceptions. I saw this aircraft at the "Corsair Gathering" airshow near Indianapolis, IN, in Sept., 2002. The photos below are of the full scale prior to it's fatal crash. As you can see, it is an F4U-4, complete with external fuel tanks and rockets. While the markings are fairly accurate, the Hanger-9 Corsair is of an earlier version: an F4U-1D. The major differences are with the cowling and the canopy. If you would like more info on the full scale, do a search for "Korean War Hero Corsair".
If the success of the Hanger-9 Mustang ARF is any indication, there should be a lot of these Corsairs at flying sites this coming summer. No doubt, most will look exactly the same.
For that reason and others, I will be completely re-finishing mine with a different scheme. Richard L. Has already done so to his; he has transformed his into an accurate rendition of a WW II era F4U-1D which was based on the U.S.S. Shangri La during 1945. Hopefully, Richard will post some pictures of his here. I am requesting that anyone posting pics here: please provide some details about your Corsair as well (what engine and prop, how much does it weigh, etc.).
I plan to apply what is commonly referred to as a 'tri-color' scheme, with 1943 style national emblems. These schemes are among the most colorful/ good looking for Corsairs, and represent the era prior to acceptance as carrier based aircraft. Thus, they were for the most part, operating from land bases in the Solomon Islands, and flown mostly by Marines. There was however, at least one group being flown by Navy pilots: VF-17, AKA the Jolly Rogers. I have decided to finish mine as one of those Corsairs; the #3 as flown by Fredrick Streig. Other famous Corsairs from this group include Ira Kepford's #29, Roger Hedrick's #17, and John Blackburn's #1/ "Big Hog", as these 3 are modeled often, I have chosen one of the slightly less popular ones.
What I am striving to accomplish is to transform my Corsair into a more scale/ accurate model, while maintaining it's light weight and good flight characteristics, as I have done with my Top Flite Corsair.
More specifically, in addition to re-finishing and other mods listed above, I would like to:
1) install a retractable tailwheel
2) install functional flaps
3) conceal the elevator & rudder servos
4) add front main landing gear doors (and possibly other gear doors as well)
5) replace main wheels with a more scale size (scale size is slightly over 4" dia. This will require omitting the supplied wheel wells
6) add simulated scale exhaust
7) add simulated machine guns
8) add other various scale details
9) modify and/ or replace wing root oil cooler inlets, for a more scale/ accurate look
As with the Top Flite Corsair Mods thread, I don't have the time to add posts on a daily basis, but will probably add about one per week. I would like to have it flying by July.
Some of you may remember me as the originator of a simular thread which concerned modifications to Top Flite .60 size/ 1/8 scale Corsairs. If you are not familiar with that thread and want to see it, click on this:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_96...corsair/tm.htm
I recently purchased a NIB Hanger-9 Corsair ARF from a fellow RCU member. For a variety of reasons, I will be performing extensive modifications to it, and will try to find the time to document and photograph those mods here. I welcome and encourage others to participate and contribute their ideas as well. I also welcome pictures of other Hanger-9 Corsairs, but PLEASE: lets keep the discussion and pictures focused on the Hanger-9 Corsair modifications only.
Here are some observations I had on the Hanger-9 Corsair prior to receiving the kit:
1) While some have chosen to install after market retracts (usually CenturyJet), those that have stuck with the originals are satisfied with their operation and durability. I therefor, intend use the originals, but will probably install RoboStruts on them and make provisions for installing an air retract system should I feel the need to install an air retract system at a later time.
2) There are concerns by other modelers about the robustness/ durability of the firewall, as there are concerns (and failures) with other Hanger-9 ARFs as well. Therefor I will look into this area and probably add some reinforcement.
1) & 2) above are based on what I have read here at RCUniverse.
3) The scheme/ finish on these kits is based on a full scale which was flying the air show circuit until it crashed about 1 1/2 years ago, killing it's pilot. This aircraft was an actual Korean War veteran, as the pilot/ owner. In case you don't know, most surviving warbirds never went to the combat areas, this Corsair was one of the few exceptions. I saw this aircraft at the "Corsair Gathering" airshow near Indianapolis, IN, in Sept., 2002. The photos below are of the full scale prior to it's fatal crash. As you can see, it is an F4U-4, complete with external fuel tanks and rockets. While the markings are fairly accurate, the Hanger-9 Corsair is of an earlier version: an F4U-1D. The major differences are with the cowling and the canopy. If you would like more info on the full scale, do a search for "Korean War Hero Corsair".
If the success of the Hanger-9 Mustang ARF is any indication, there should be a lot of these Corsairs at flying sites this coming summer. No doubt, most will look exactly the same.
For that reason and others, I will be completely re-finishing mine with a different scheme. Richard L. Has already done so to his; he has transformed his into an accurate rendition of a WW II era F4U-1D which was based on the U.S.S. Shangri La during 1945. Hopefully, Richard will post some pictures of his here. I am requesting that anyone posting pics here: please provide some details about your Corsair as well (what engine and prop, how much does it weigh, etc.).
I plan to apply what is commonly referred to as a 'tri-color' scheme, with 1943 style national emblems. These schemes are among the most colorful/ good looking for Corsairs, and represent the era prior to acceptance as carrier based aircraft. Thus, they were for the most part, operating from land bases in the Solomon Islands, and flown mostly by Marines. There was however, at least one group being flown by Navy pilots: VF-17, AKA the Jolly Rogers. I have decided to finish mine as one of those Corsairs; the #3 as flown by Fredrick Streig. Other famous Corsairs from this group include Ira Kepford's #29, Roger Hedrick's #17, and John Blackburn's #1/ "Big Hog", as these 3 are modeled often, I have chosen one of the slightly less popular ones.
What I am striving to accomplish is to transform my Corsair into a more scale/ accurate model, while maintaining it's light weight and good flight characteristics, as I have done with my Top Flite Corsair.
More specifically, in addition to re-finishing and other mods listed above, I would like to:
1) install a retractable tailwheel
2) install functional flaps
3) conceal the elevator & rudder servos
4) add front main landing gear doors (and possibly other gear doors as well)
5) replace main wheels with a more scale size (scale size is slightly over 4" dia. This will require omitting the supplied wheel wells
6) add simulated scale exhaust
7) add simulated machine guns
8) add other various scale details
9) modify and/ or replace wing root oil cooler inlets, for a more scale/ accurate look
As with the Top Flite Corsair Mods thread, I don't have the time to add posts on a daily basis, but will probably add about one per week. I would like to have it flying by July.
05-08-2004, 10:54 AM
#2
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
Since I am a WWII warbird buff, I chose to do this WWII color scheme from the get go:
This is F4U-1C white 11 of Lt. Joe D. Robbins, VF-85, USS Shangri-La, May 1945.
Here are some pictures of my H9 Corsair in the aforementioned color scheme:
I haven't weighed the plane yet, but I believe it's around 9.5 lbs due to all the epoxy and glass that I added behind the firewall and inside of the fuse. The plane is powered by a YS 110FZ spinning an MA 14x9 three blade prop. So far the firewall is still rock solid. I have a custom flying 15x7 3-blade Hamilton Standard prop on order from PK Props and will take some pictures when it arrives. Here is a picture of the CJ retract:
The retracts seem to be holding up very well. I'm thinking about enlarging the wheel wells to accept 4" diameter main wheels. This means the struts will need to be shortened by 1/2" to accomodate the larger wheels and to avoid moving the wheel wells rearward. The plane sits pretty high on the ground as is, and I don't want the nose to point up any higher.
This is F4U-1C white 11 of Lt. Joe D. Robbins, VF-85, USS Shangri-La, May 1945.
Here are some pictures of my H9 Corsair in the aforementioned color scheme:
I haven't weighed the plane yet, but I believe it's around 9.5 lbs due to all the epoxy and glass that I added behind the firewall and inside of the fuse. The plane is powered by a YS 110FZ spinning an MA 14x9 three blade prop. So far the firewall is still rock solid. I have a custom flying 15x7 3-blade Hamilton Standard prop on order from PK Props and will take some pictures when it arrives. Here is a picture of the CJ retract:
The retracts seem to be holding up very well. I'm thinking about enlarging the wheel wells to accept 4" diameter main wheels. This means the struts will need to be shortened by 1/2" to accomodate the larger wheels and to avoid moving the wheel wells rearward. The plane sits pretty high on the ground as is, and I don't want the nose to point up any higher.
05-08-2004, 10:00 PM
#3
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
Jim,
Just a heads up, Joe Tobul's airplane in the pics you posted is an F4U-4 the F4U-5 has scoops on each side of the cowl. Otherwise everything else you've said is accurate.
Just a heads up, Joe Tobul's airplane in the pics you posted is an F4U-4 the F4U-5 has scoops on each side of the cowl. Otherwise everything else you've said is accurate.
05-09-2004, 08:22 AM
#4
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
US185Damiani is absolutely right, I was mistaken and have corrected it. The F4U-5 models had twin chin scoops, rather than the single one as used on the F4U-4 series.
Thanks Richard, for posting your pictures here. It goes to show how unique and scale looking these ARFs can be with just a little work, and this is what I really like to see. Again: I really like what you have done with yours, and I'm sure it will grab a lot of attention at any and all flying sites you take it to, and those of us that know our Corsairs will really appreaciate the scale theme on it.
I have done some mods already, removed all covering, decided to use a different set of retracts, determined projected weights, etc. and will be adding posts concerning this within the next week. In the mean time, this particular post will be turned into a 'table of content': I will update this one as I add posts and list the specific mods according to post number.
One more thing before concluding this post: Hanger 9 advertises that this plane will weigh 7 1/2 ~ 8 1/2 lbs, which seems remarkable since I have yet to see a slightly smaller Top Flite Corsair (62" span) that weighs less than 8 1/2 lbs when equipped with retracts. I have weighed every component ( I have accurate digital scales), added up what radio gear, engine, and prop would weigh, and have determined that this can inded be built into a 7 1/2 lb Corsair, straight out of the box, if you choose appropriate engine and radio gear. I will be providing detailed weights in a later post.
Thanks Richard, for posting your pictures here. It goes to show how unique and scale looking these ARFs can be with just a little work, and this is what I really like to see. Again: I really like what you have done with yours, and I'm sure it will grab a lot of attention at any and all flying sites you take it to, and those of us that know our Corsairs will really appreaciate the scale theme on it.
I have done some mods already, removed all covering, decided to use a different set of retracts, determined projected weights, etc. and will be adding posts concerning this within the next week. In the mean time, this particular post will be turned into a 'table of content': I will update this one as I add posts and list the specific mods according to post number.
One more thing before concluding this post: Hanger 9 advertises that this plane will weigh 7 1/2 ~ 8 1/2 lbs, which seems remarkable since I have yet to see a slightly smaller Top Flite Corsair (62" span) that weighs less than 8 1/2 lbs when equipped with retracts. I have weighed every component ( I have accurate digital scales), added up what radio gear, engine, and prop would weigh, and have determined that this can inded be built into a 7 1/2 lb Corsair, straight out of the box, if you choose appropriate engine and radio gear. I will be providing detailed weights in a later post.
05-09-2004, 04:18 PM
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RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
Hi Jim, and everyone thinking bent (wing'd) thoughts! 
Unless I missed it,
With the exception of small high wing cabin liaison airplanes such as the Aeronca L-3, Taylorcraft L-2, and the Piper L-4, we need to remember that just about ALL WWII airplane designs had sexy~curvy airfoils gracing their sleek tails!
It's a horror the way these mass-produced ARF models are polluting sacred aviation history. Kids need to grow up with SCALE OUTLINES surrounding their existence! These thangs just cain't be messed with !!! Flat tailfeathers, sheesh.
Rant concludes, y'all may commence firing! [8D]
John (...headin' for a shallow foxhole, and fast!)
Unless I missed it,
WHAT ABOUT THE TAIL FEATHERS ?
Those poor guys need AIRFOILS !!!
Those poor guys need AIRFOILS !!!
With the exception of small high wing cabin liaison airplanes such as the Aeronca L-3, Taylorcraft L-2, and the Piper L-4, we need to remember that just about ALL WWII airplane designs had sexy~curvy airfoils gracing their sleek tails!
It's a horror the way these mass-produced ARF models are polluting sacred aviation history. Kids need to grow up with SCALE OUTLINES surrounding their existence! These thangs just cain't be messed with !!! Flat tailfeathers, sheesh.
Rant concludes, y'all may commence firing! [8D]
John (...headin' for a shallow foxhole, and fast!)
05-12-2004, 02:56 PM
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RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
Help. After two cups of coffee, I've finally made it through this tread. Decided to buy the H9 Corsair and Century Jet retracts. I've seen through the pictures how a few of you installed the gear in the wing, but any chance of getting pictures of how you installed the servo and 4-way control valve? Since I must take the wing off to transport, I wanted the servo and valve in the wing so I only have one line to hook up at the field.
05-13-2004, 07:10 AM
#7
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
John Rood, Yes, I am condsidering adding scale airfoil to tail feathers, shouldn't be to difficult. Keep in mind tho that this is a designed to be funscale, and much effort has been put into keeping this aircraft light. The end reasult is an easy to fly, simple, inexpensive warbird with retracts that altho lacking detail up close, has a pretty scale appearance in the air. Horrifying to some, welcomed by others.
Matt 22, I have installed the air kits (tank, valve, servo, etc.) on the wing of both my Top Flight Corsairs, and intend to do same here. The wings will be the focus of most of my first mods, but don't plan on seeing it in a day or so, maybe in mid June. BTW, I have tentatively decided to go with a set of RhomAirs that have been collecting dust for a few years now. These are nice retract,s but are no longer in production. If you can find 'em, get. Otherwise, I think the CJs are the way to go. Altho I like the Robarts for my Top Flight Corsairs, the Hanger 9 Corsair wing would require much more modification/ altering to slip in a set of 615s.
*****************************
I have now recieved the kit and had a good opportunity to look it over.
First impressions are WOW! The wing tips have what appears a fairly accurate outline, definately more accurate than Top Flite 1/8 scale plans. Additionally, the tips as viewed from the front have the generally correct profile. That is: the top of the wing is in a straight line up to the tip, and the bottom curves up to meet the tip.
Hanger 9 advertises the ready to fly weight of this aircraft to be between 7 1/2 to 8 1/2 lbs. I weighed all components (trimmed the canopy first) and came up with just under 85 oz. I further computed that adding radio gear would add 14 oz. ( 6 Futaba S3003/ S3004 @ 1.4 oz. each, plus 3.2 oz for Futaba 600 mAh pack, plus 1.5 oz. for 127 DF rx, plus 1.5 oz for (2) 12" ext., (3) 8" ext., plus .5 oz for switch harness), which would bring the total to 99 oz. That allows 21 oz for engine, prop, spinner, glue, and short piece of fuel tubing, which would bring total to 120 oz., or 7 lbs, 8 oz. If 21 oz. doesn't sound like enough allowance for the above, consider that the Futaba 148 series recievers weigh just 1 oz, lighter battery packs are available, and there are some 1 oz. servo available which can do the job. Also, Saito has just released a .82 4 stroke, which they advertise as having the same physical size ans weight of the .72 (about 18 oz.). As a .72 powers my 8 lb, 10 oz Top Flite Corsair adaquately, I'm sure this new engine would provide plenty of power for the Hanger 9 Corsair.
The firewall appears to have about 2 deg offset for right thrust, 0 deg down thrust.
The wing is not sheeted aft of the main spar on the outer panels. Actually, the full scale Corsairs have fabric covered ribs on much of the outer panels, altho the rib spacing is much closer than the cap-stripped ribs on the H-9 Corsair. Regardless, this weight saving type of wing construction is easily altered, if the builder desires. In other words, converting the wings to fully sheeted should not be too difficult, if that's what one wants.
The fiberglass cowl is LIGHT, weighing just 93 gr. compared to 197 gr. for an un-painted Top Flite Corsair cowl. That's a difference of nearly 4 oz. It also is slightly oversized (diameter of cowl about 1/4" greater than fuselage diameter), and has molded in cowl flap lines, but they are not scale accurate. The light weight of it also makes it seem flimsy. I am leaning towards installing a Top Flite cowl on mine because I can make it more scale looking with it, and it would be able to absorb those occasional nose-overs better.
The included wheels are great looking! They are light, yet have a very scale, 8 spoke design on one side, very simular to the Robart scale hubs, which in turn are very simular to the hubs of U.S. fighters during WW II (Mustangs, Corsairs, and most others). Unfortunately, they are too small. Scale size is about 4", I like to use 3 1/2", and these are 3 1/4". I sure would like to see these wheels offered in bigger sizes, I would be buying lots of them. The tailwheel weighs 1 gram.
The included/ installed retracts have a lot of freeplay, 5/32" dia. struts (size generally used for .40 size planes), and leave a lot exposed when retracted. In fact, it would be very difficult to install functional gear doors with these retracts. Whereas I originally intended to use these included retracts, I am now set on finding an alternative.
The fin, rudder and stabilizer are balsa framework. If you don't like it, you can always remove the covering and apply sheeting. Ailerons and elevators are shaped balsa.
The individual pieces are laser cut, and it looks as tho this would be an excellent kit to build. Unfortunately, like most ARFs, they are bonded with what appears to be a hot-melt glue. This type of glue is heavy, yet does not bond all that well. The glue is no doubt at least partially responsible for the firewall failures, which have been reported by others in RCU with H-9 ARFs.
Wing attachment bolts/ blind nuts, as well as most other (all?) bolts are AMERICAN (not metric, as in every other ARF I have ever owned). Wing bolts are 1/4 x 20 Allen bolts, just like the size we usually use. I will however, be substituting the included 20 gr./ pair allen bolts for a pair of 3.5 gr./ pair nylon phillips screws.
The wing appears to have 0 degrees of incidence, whereas full scales have about 2 degrees of positive incidence. I like a small amount of positive incidence: it makes a model easier to set up for landings and slow flight.
Lastly, the bad news: the wing center section is very wrong (see picture in this post). The problem is that this section, which is parallel to the ground (horizontal), extends beyond the fuselage by as much as 5/8" on each side at the trailing edge. The completed left and right wings are then attached to this piece, and appear to be correct, BUT the exposed area of the center section should not be exposed. Up until the time I discovered this, I believe that it would be fairly easy to transform this ARF into a fairly scale looking Corsair, but this seems to really complicate matters. In fact, I considered giving up and just making this this fun scale Corsair that it was designed to be. But then, better sence got ahold of me, and I decided that a Corsair worth building is worth building right!
Matt 22, I have installed the air kits (tank, valve, servo, etc.) on the wing of both my Top Flight Corsairs, and intend to do same here. The wings will be the focus of most of my first mods, but don't plan on seeing it in a day or so, maybe in mid June. BTW, I have tentatively decided to go with a set of RhomAirs that have been collecting dust for a few years now. These are nice retract,s but are no longer in production. If you can find 'em, get. Otherwise, I think the CJs are the way to go. Altho I like the Robarts for my Top Flight Corsairs, the Hanger 9 Corsair wing would require much more modification/ altering to slip in a set of 615s.
*****************************
I have now recieved the kit and had a good opportunity to look it over.
First impressions are WOW! The wing tips have what appears a fairly accurate outline, definately more accurate than Top Flite 1/8 scale plans. Additionally, the tips as viewed from the front have the generally correct profile. That is: the top of the wing is in a straight line up to the tip, and the bottom curves up to meet the tip.
Hanger 9 advertises the ready to fly weight of this aircraft to be between 7 1/2 to 8 1/2 lbs. I weighed all components (trimmed the canopy first) and came up with just under 85 oz. I further computed that adding radio gear would add 14 oz. ( 6 Futaba S3003/ S3004 @ 1.4 oz. each, plus 3.2 oz for Futaba 600 mAh pack, plus 1.5 oz. for 127 DF rx, plus 1.5 oz for (2) 12" ext., (3) 8" ext., plus .5 oz for switch harness), which would bring the total to 99 oz. That allows 21 oz for engine, prop, spinner, glue, and short piece of fuel tubing, which would bring total to 120 oz., or 7 lbs, 8 oz. If 21 oz. doesn't sound like enough allowance for the above, consider that the Futaba 148 series recievers weigh just 1 oz, lighter battery packs are available, and there are some 1 oz. servo available which can do the job. Also, Saito has just released a .82 4 stroke, which they advertise as having the same physical size ans weight of the .72 (about 18 oz.). As a .72 powers my 8 lb, 10 oz Top Flite Corsair adaquately, I'm sure this new engine would provide plenty of power for the Hanger 9 Corsair.
The firewall appears to have about 2 deg offset for right thrust, 0 deg down thrust.
The wing is not sheeted aft of the main spar on the outer panels. Actually, the full scale Corsairs have fabric covered ribs on much of the outer panels, altho the rib spacing is much closer than the cap-stripped ribs on the H-9 Corsair. Regardless, this weight saving type of wing construction is easily altered, if the builder desires. In other words, converting the wings to fully sheeted should not be too difficult, if that's what one wants.
The fiberglass cowl is LIGHT, weighing just 93 gr. compared to 197 gr. for an un-painted Top Flite Corsair cowl. That's a difference of nearly 4 oz. It also is slightly oversized (diameter of cowl about 1/4" greater than fuselage diameter), and has molded in cowl flap lines, but they are not scale accurate. The light weight of it also makes it seem flimsy. I am leaning towards installing a Top Flite cowl on mine because I can make it more scale looking with it, and it would be able to absorb those occasional nose-overs better.
The included wheels are great looking! They are light, yet have a very scale, 8 spoke design on one side, very simular to the Robart scale hubs, which in turn are very simular to the hubs of U.S. fighters during WW II (Mustangs, Corsairs, and most others). Unfortunately, they are too small. Scale size is about 4", I like to use 3 1/2", and these are 3 1/4". I sure would like to see these wheels offered in bigger sizes, I would be buying lots of them. The tailwheel weighs 1 gram.
The included/ installed retracts have a lot of freeplay, 5/32" dia. struts (size generally used for .40 size planes), and leave a lot exposed when retracted. In fact, it would be very difficult to install functional gear doors with these retracts. Whereas I originally intended to use these included retracts, I am now set on finding an alternative.
The fin, rudder and stabilizer are balsa framework. If you don't like it, you can always remove the covering and apply sheeting. Ailerons and elevators are shaped balsa.
The individual pieces are laser cut, and it looks as tho this would be an excellent kit to build. Unfortunately, like most ARFs, they are bonded with what appears to be a hot-melt glue. This type of glue is heavy, yet does not bond all that well. The glue is no doubt at least partially responsible for the firewall failures, which have been reported by others in RCU with H-9 ARFs.
Wing attachment bolts/ blind nuts, as well as most other (all?) bolts are AMERICAN (not metric, as in every other ARF I have ever owned). Wing bolts are 1/4 x 20 Allen bolts, just like the size we usually use. I will however, be substituting the included 20 gr./ pair allen bolts for a pair of 3.5 gr./ pair nylon phillips screws.
The wing appears to have 0 degrees of incidence, whereas full scales have about 2 degrees of positive incidence. I like a small amount of positive incidence: it makes a model easier to set up for landings and slow flight.
Lastly, the bad news: the wing center section is very wrong (see picture in this post). The problem is that this section, which is parallel to the ground (horizontal), extends beyond the fuselage by as much as 5/8" on each side at the trailing edge. The completed left and right wings are then attached to this piece, and appear to be correct, BUT the exposed area of the center section should not be exposed. Up until the time I discovered this, I believe that it would be fairly easy to transform this ARF into a fairly scale looking Corsair, but this seems to really complicate matters. In fact, I considered giving up and just making this this fun scale Corsair that it was designed to be. But then, better sence got ahold of me, and I decided that a Corsair worth building is worth building right!
05-13-2004, 08:52 AM
#8
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
Jim,
Can you post a few pics of your air tank mount in your TF Corsairs? I have 3 hoses and 4 wires to connect when I set mine up. (due to the retractable tailwheel.)
thanks,
Mike
Can you post a few pics of your air tank mount in your TF Corsairs? I have 3 hoses and 4 wires to connect when I set mine up. (due to the retractable tailwheel.)
thanks,
Mike
05-13-2004, 09:41 AM
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RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
Jim,
You da man! I was hoping someone better suited to this than me would start such a thread. My h-9 is going in for a major over-haul as well. I have an RCV 120 for the power... I WILL be flyinging with an almost scale diameter 3 blade prop. I think Richard said true scale would be 19.75"? I am hoping to get at least 18" but thats so much better than 15 to me... Also i will do flaps and am looking into ailfoil tail feathers. John Rood is right on that. I even have an original scheme too! I'm waiting on Sierra for the gear as doors are a must to me- I'm not sure if the CJM's leave any over hang below the wing to hinder a door like the stock mechs do??? I hope to use a lot of Luke's royal tips to help me along.
I'll be finishing up my 300s this week, so the hog will be on the board come monday!!!!
To the cowl, do you think the TF cowl will work well on this a/c??? I know I'm modeling an FG-1D, but i think they are the same cowl outline, right? I also have planned functional cowl flaps as i've been given a simple method to make this work. pending projected weight of mine... What do you think is a safe max weight on this ship? do you think 10.5lbs is too high of a loading? I remember reading "As a guideline, a Sports Aerobatic wing loading of 19 to 25 ounces per square foot would be ideal." Others have said up to 28 ounces is still good...
Wing area is 752 sq in = 5.222 sq ft
Loading would be as such
8.5 = 26.04
9lbs = 27.57
10.5lbs = 32.17
any thoughts? I mean we're not trying to 3D this bird.
~cheers
You da man! I was hoping someone better suited to this than me would start such a thread. My h-9 is going in for a major over-haul as well. I have an RCV 120 for the power... I WILL be flyinging with an almost scale diameter 3 blade prop. I think Richard said true scale would be 19.75"? I am hoping to get at least 18" but thats so much better than 15 to me... Also i will do flaps and am looking into ailfoil tail feathers. John Rood is right on that. I even have an original scheme too! I'm waiting on Sierra for the gear as doors are a must to me- I'm not sure if the CJM's leave any over hang below the wing to hinder a door like the stock mechs do??? I hope to use a lot of Luke's royal tips to help me along.
I'll be finishing up my 300s this week, so the hog will be on the board come monday!!!!
To the cowl, do you think the TF cowl will work well on this a/c??? I know I'm modeling an FG-1D, but i think they are the same cowl outline, right? I also have planned functional cowl flaps as i've been given a simple method to make this work. pending projected weight of mine... What do you think is a safe max weight on this ship? do you think 10.5lbs is too high of a loading? I remember reading "As a guideline, a Sports Aerobatic wing loading of 19 to 25 ounces per square foot would be ideal." Others have said up to 28 ounces is still good...
Wing area is 752 sq in = 5.222 sq ft
Loading would be as such
8.5 = 26.04
9lbs = 27.57
10.5lbs = 32.17
any thoughts? I mean we're not trying to 3D this bird.
~cheers
05-15-2004, 07:19 AM
#10
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
To answer a question; I will be using a Top Flite cowl. I feel that it will be much easier to make it scale looking, and fits the fuselage closer. As stated earlier, the Hanger 9 cowl is a little over-sized for the fuselage, which is fine for helping to hide engines, but I'm gonna go for a more scale look.
On another question: I have posted pictures and description of my air system installation on my Top Flite Corsair. The post is in the 'Top Flite Corsair Mods' thread (click on link in 1st post in this thread).
Last question regards wing loading: I have seen several Top Flite Corsairs that weighed 12 lbs and more. The owners of these claim they fly great, and they usually have much more power than Top Flite calls for. Some claim the heavy ones handle windy conditions better than the lighter ones. All of this is a subject which could be hotly debated, and I hope it doesn't happen here. I personnaly prefer to keep mine as light as possible, and for several reasons. One big reason is that a lighter plane imposes less stress on landing gear, and many of us are well aware of the fragility of retracts, especially the rotating type that we must use on Corsairs. To answer the question: based on what I have sen with Top Flite Corsairs, and the old saying 'Given enough power, anything can fly', I would have to say the a Hanger 9 Corsair could probably be made to weigh that much also (12 lbs), and still be considered to be a good flyer.
WING CENTER SECTION MOD to REVOVE 'STEP' at TRAILING EDGE/ FUSELAGE JUNCTION, AND ADD POSITIVE INCIDENCE
I have decided that the center section issue will be my first mod, and it is probably the most difficult.
I began by removing all the covering from that section, and proceeded to re-design. As a bonus, my methods will also give the wing some positive incidence. The project turned out to be easier than I thought.
Next, I bolted up the center section to the fuselage and used a ruler to determine the minimum distance between fuselage side and wing center section end (how far the section extends beyond the fuselage, on the top of the wing, at the closest point). I found that a large area from the spar area forward was about 3/16" extended. I decided to remove the section from the fuselage, then marked 2 lines, one one each side (left & right), each line 3/16" from the edge of the sections (where the outer wing panels are to be attached), all the way around the airfoil.
Next, I re-attached the center section to the fuselage, and marked the top of the center section where it mated to the fuselage, aft of the spar. From the spar forward, the line drawn earlier (3/16" from edges of center section) where close enough to the fuselage for me.
I removed the section again, put a fresh blade in my X-Acto knife, and proceeded to cut through the balsa sheeting, following the 3/16" lines (actually, just OUTSIDE the lines, be sure to leave the lines on the center section) from the spar forward, and the drawn lines aft of the spar. The idea is to have the center section become flush with the fuselage sides when it is attached. Better to remove too little tha too much, as sanding will be required to get it precise anyway.
The center section is capped on both sides by a plywood (3/32"?) rib, which has a laser cut balsa rib glued to it on the inside of the section (oddly, the 2 balsa ribs were of different thicknesses on mine). In the areas of the 3/16" lines, the cuts will likely be thru these inner balsa ribs. Also, after going as deep as possible with the X-Acto knife, I used a fine tooth hobby saw for cutting through the spar, leading edge stock, and trailing edge stock. The object is to completely cut away the caps, while leaving enough of the center section to allow it to be flush with the fuselage.
When the caps are removed, time to sand: a flat sanding bar was used here. I sanded the area from the spar to the leading edge up to the lines, making sure that when done, I was able to set the section on a flat surface ( such as a table), with one end up, and other end should be setting flat on table, with no rocking and no gaps from spar area to leading edge. If everything is done properly, the outer wing panels should butt up to the center section evenly from the spar to the leading edge.
When I was satisfied with the forward portion (from spar to leading edge), I proceeded to sand the area aft of the spar, following the drawn lines on the top, and maintaining the same end angle as the forward area. This requires a good set of eyes. When done, the wings should butt up evenly from the leading edge to the spar, then a gap should develop which tapers to about 1/2" by the time it gets to the trailing edge.
This is much easier to do than to explain, hope I'm not loosing anybody.
Next, I sanded the plywood caps so that they will fit within the center section sheeting. This eventually required me to cut the caps into 2 pieces, so that one piece fit in front of the spar and the other behind it. I glued the front cap sections into place in the center section, keeping them flush with the sheeting edge. Next, In glued the rear portions of the ply caps into the center section, beginning at the spar and allowing it to bend gently to follow the contour of the center section. When the glue has cured, it may be necessary to do some additional sanding, to make the caps flush.
In order to trial fit the wings to the center section, I had to remove 3/16" from each of the (2) spar/ joiners, on the end which goes into the center section (the spar/ joiners are NOT symetrical: one end must go into wing, other into center section).
With the spar joiners in place, and outer panel held on, I am able to 'rock' the wings around the spar. This is necessary in order to alter the wing incidence, AND have the wings line up properly with the center section. The trailing edge of the outer panels need to be about 3/8" lower than the trailing edge of the center section. When mods are completed tho, all trailing edges will meet. This is because the trailing edges of the outers will be built up: about 1/2" added to fill the gap. This 1/2" will rise to meet the center section. Do not glue anything together yet, I have many mods planned for the outer wings, and will be easier when they are not attached.
***************************************
I have changed my mind on retract selection: I will be using a set of CenturyJet retacts which I bought about 5 years ago, and modified to use RoboStruts. This is a time consuming and expensive modification, so I am not recommending the modification of the CenturyJets.
So, that's all for now.
On another question: I have posted pictures and description of my air system installation on my Top Flite Corsair. The post is in the 'Top Flite Corsair Mods' thread (click on link in 1st post in this thread).
Last question regards wing loading: I have seen several Top Flite Corsairs that weighed 12 lbs and more. The owners of these claim they fly great, and they usually have much more power than Top Flite calls for. Some claim the heavy ones handle windy conditions better than the lighter ones. All of this is a subject which could be hotly debated, and I hope it doesn't happen here. I personnaly prefer to keep mine as light as possible, and for several reasons. One big reason is that a lighter plane imposes less stress on landing gear, and many of us are well aware of the fragility of retracts, especially the rotating type that we must use on Corsairs. To answer the question: based on what I have sen with Top Flite Corsairs, and the old saying 'Given enough power, anything can fly', I would have to say the a Hanger 9 Corsair could probably be made to weigh that much also (12 lbs), and still be considered to be a good flyer.
WING CENTER SECTION MOD to REVOVE 'STEP' at TRAILING EDGE/ FUSELAGE JUNCTION, AND ADD POSITIVE INCIDENCE
I have decided that the center section issue will be my first mod, and it is probably the most difficult.
I began by removing all the covering from that section, and proceeded to re-design. As a bonus, my methods will also give the wing some positive incidence. The project turned out to be easier than I thought.
Next, I bolted up the center section to the fuselage and used a ruler to determine the minimum distance between fuselage side and wing center section end (how far the section extends beyond the fuselage, on the top of the wing, at the closest point). I found that a large area from the spar area forward was about 3/16" extended. I decided to remove the section from the fuselage, then marked 2 lines, one one each side (left & right), each line 3/16" from the edge of the sections (where the outer wing panels are to be attached), all the way around the airfoil.
Next, I re-attached the center section to the fuselage, and marked the top of the center section where it mated to the fuselage, aft of the spar. From the spar forward, the line drawn earlier (3/16" from edges of center section) where close enough to the fuselage for me.
I removed the section again, put a fresh blade in my X-Acto knife, and proceeded to cut through the balsa sheeting, following the 3/16" lines (actually, just OUTSIDE the lines, be sure to leave the lines on the center section) from the spar forward, and the drawn lines aft of the spar. The idea is to have the center section become flush with the fuselage sides when it is attached. Better to remove too little tha too much, as sanding will be required to get it precise anyway.
The center section is capped on both sides by a plywood (3/32"?) rib, which has a laser cut balsa rib glued to it on the inside of the section (oddly, the 2 balsa ribs were of different thicknesses on mine). In the areas of the 3/16" lines, the cuts will likely be thru these inner balsa ribs. Also, after going as deep as possible with the X-Acto knife, I used a fine tooth hobby saw for cutting through the spar, leading edge stock, and trailing edge stock. The object is to completely cut away the caps, while leaving enough of the center section to allow it to be flush with the fuselage.
When the caps are removed, time to sand: a flat sanding bar was used here. I sanded the area from the spar to the leading edge up to the lines, making sure that when done, I was able to set the section on a flat surface ( such as a table), with one end up, and other end should be setting flat on table, with no rocking and no gaps from spar area to leading edge. If everything is done properly, the outer wing panels should butt up to the center section evenly from the spar to the leading edge.
When I was satisfied with the forward portion (from spar to leading edge), I proceeded to sand the area aft of the spar, following the drawn lines on the top, and maintaining the same end angle as the forward area. This requires a good set of eyes. When done, the wings should butt up evenly from the leading edge to the spar, then a gap should develop which tapers to about 1/2" by the time it gets to the trailing edge.
This is much easier to do than to explain, hope I'm not loosing anybody.
Next, I sanded the plywood caps so that they will fit within the center section sheeting. This eventually required me to cut the caps into 2 pieces, so that one piece fit in front of the spar and the other behind it. I glued the front cap sections into place in the center section, keeping them flush with the sheeting edge. Next, In glued the rear portions of the ply caps into the center section, beginning at the spar and allowing it to bend gently to follow the contour of the center section. When the glue has cured, it may be necessary to do some additional sanding, to make the caps flush.
In order to trial fit the wings to the center section, I had to remove 3/16" from each of the (2) spar/ joiners, on the end which goes into the center section (the spar/ joiners are NOT symetrical: one end must go into wing, other into center section).
With the spar joiners in place, and outer panel held on, I am able to 'rock' the wings around the spar. This is necessary in order to alter the wing incidence, AND have the wings line up properly with the center section. The trailing edge of the outer panels need to be about 3/8" lower than the trailing edge of the center section. When mods are completed tho, all trailing edges will meet. This is because the trailing edges of the outers will be built up: about 1/2" added to fill the gap. This 1/2" will rise to meet the center section. Do not glue anything together yet, I have many mods planned for the outer wings, and will be easier when they are not attached.
***************************************
I have changed my mind on retract selection: I will be using a set of CenturyJet retacts which I bought about 5 years ago, and modified to use RoboStruts. This is a time consuming and expensive modification, so I am not recommending the modification of the CenturyJets.
So, that's all for now.
05-17-2004, 10:18 PM
#11
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
That wing center section is looking good!
By the way, I just received my Hamilton Standard 15x7 three-bladed prop from PK Props. This is a flying prop, not a static display prop:
I will be trying it out this weekend.
By the way, I just received my Hamilton Standard 15x7 three-bladed prop from PK Props. This is a flying prop, not a static display prop:
I will be trying it out this weekend.
05-18-2004, 08:34 AM
#12
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RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
My God! THat's a work of art!
I can't wait to see what one of those will look like with an 18" diameter.
I can't wait to see what one of those will look like with an 18" diameter.
05-19-2004, 11:39 PM
#13
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
I just put my plane on a postal scale, and it ended up being 9 lbs 13.4 oz. The 15x7 Hamilton Standard 3-bladed prop was too much for the YS 110 to swing because I was able to get only 7400 rpm out of it. This prop is more suitable for the YS 120 or the Saito 150. It looks good though.
05-23-2004, 10:24 PM
#14
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
CorsairJock, any progress on your H9 Corsair? There were a couple of reported wing failures at or near the gull bend, so you might want to double check those areas. I glassed my center section and my gull bends when I first started to put the wing together, and so far the glass job seems to help.
Here are a couple of pictures of my 54th flight (under a storm front with gusty wind):
Here are a couple of pictures of my 54th flight (under a storm front with gusty wind):
05-23-2004, 11:20 PM
#15
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
Sorry, no progress lately, except I did manage to completely strip all covering from it. I was busy finishing up the drop tank installation on my Top Flite Corsair, and now I am busy getting ready to take vacation/ trip to our land in Kentucky (Madisonville area). On our way back home, I will be attending the Memorial day War Bird Fly-In at Terre Haute, IN. A few days of going back to work, then I'm off the the C.A.R.D.S. 2 day ( June 5 & 6) War Bird Fly-In, near Lansing, MI.
Sure is hard to make any progress on my R/C projects this time of year, hope to get going again by mid June.
Richard L: GREAT LOOKING flight photos! Looks pretty real from those angles.
And that prop, sure like the looks of it, where do you get them from? I checked with Fox and they only carry a few sizes. I'll bet they would work pretty good with the RCV engines, IF they come in slightly bigger sizes/ with more pitch.
Sure is hard to make any progress on my R/C projects this time of year, hope to get going again by mid June.
Richard L: GREAT LOOKING flight photos! Looks pretty real from those angles.
And that prop, sure like the looks of it, where do you get them from? I checked with Fox and they only carry a few sizes. I'll bet they would work pretty good with the RCV engines, IF they come in slightly bigger sizes/ with more pitch.
05-23-2004, 11:55 PM
#16
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RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
corsair ill be going to the CARDS show as well. dont have a plane to bring but will be there. Should i look for the Corsairs ?
05-24-2004, 09:14 AM
#17
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
ORIGINAL: CorsairJock
And that prop, sure like the looks of it, where do you get them from? I checked with Fox and they only carry a few sizes. I'll bet they would work pretty good with the RCV engines, IF they come in slightly bigger sizes/ with more pitch.
And that prop, sure like the looks of it, where do you get them from? I checked with Fox and they only carry a few sizes. I'll bet they would work pretty good with the RCV engines, IF they come in slightly bigger sizes/ with more pitch.
Phil Kovar
PK Props
8316 Younkin Drive
Milford, KS 66514
(785) 238-1679
07-28-2004, 11:51 AM
#18
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
Well, . I'm finally able to get back into this project. Sorry for the delay, some other projects came up which had higher priorities.
My next step addresses the fin and rudder. Having built and flown several Corsairs now, I have concluded that rudders can be damaged more easily than on other types of aircraft when/ if a tip-over occurs. The reason is because the rudder is more exposed than on other types: on most other aircraft the fin would make contact before the rudder would. Tip overs seem inevitable with a Corsair, and are the result of landing gear problems, rough runways, varmit holes in the ground, and occasionally even pilot error. Thus, I like to beef up my Corsair rudders a little bit, even tho I hate adding weight. In the process of beefing them up, I also usually make them more scale. Such is my goal here: to make the fin and rudder sturdier AND more scale looking.
To achieve a more scale look, I intend to make the fin and rudder have a slimmer cross section as it tapers to the top. In other words, they will be thicker at the base than at the top, as the full scale ones are.
The picture shows the fin and rudder stripped of covering, and I have used a black felt marker to darken areas for reference when sanding (it makes it easy to see how much I have sanded).
After the picture was taken, I used a fine point marker to make 2 lines all along the rudder trailing edge, spaced about 1/16" apart and equidistant from the edges. These lines were drawn over the top of the rudder as well, and at the top of the fin. Using a 4" wide belt sander, I sanded to those lines, leaving the forward corner of the rudder untouched (remember the black felt marker?) at the bottom of the fin untouched (making sure the black ink was not sanded in these areas). this gave both parts a taper from top to bottom.
My next step addresses the fin and rudder. Having built and flown several Corsairs now, I have concluded that rudders can be damaged more easily than on other types of aircraft when/ if a tip-over occurs. The reason is because the rudder is more exposed than on other types: on most other aircraft the fin would make contact before the rudder would. Tip overs seem inevitable with a Corsair, and are the result of landing gear problems, rough runways, varmit holes in the ground, and occasionally even pilot error. Thus, I like to beef up my Corsair rudders a little bit, even tho I hate adding weight. In the process of beefing them up, I also usually make them more scale. Such is my goal here: to make the fin and rudder sturdier AND more scale looking.
To achieve a more scale look, I intend to make the fin and rudder have a slimmer cross section as it tapers to the top. In other words, they will be thicker at the base than at the top, as the full scale ones are.
The picture shows the fin and rudder stripped of covering, and I have used a black felt marker to darken areas for reference when sanding (it makes it easy to see how much I have sanded).
After the picture was taken, I used a fine point marker to make 2 lines all along the rudder trailing edge, spaced about 1/16" apart and equidistant from the edges. These lines were drawn over the top of the rudder as well, and at the top of the fin. Using a 4" wide belt sander, I sanded to those lines, leaving the forward corner of the rudder untouched (remember the black felt marker?) at the bottom of the fin untouched (making sure the black ink was not sanded in these areas). this gave both parts a taper from top to bottom.
07-28-2004, 11:52 AM
#19
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
Before sheeting the rudder, I added a 1/4" wide strip of .007 carbon fiber to each side to hinge line balsa piece which runs full length, top to bottom.
Next, I laminted balsa sheeting to both sides: 1/32" sheeting on each side of the rudder and 1/16" to each side of the fin, leaving about 1/8" overhang on the trailing edge of the fin.
After trimming away the excess sheeting, I compared the rudder to 1/8 scale drawings and noted that the Hanger 9 rudder was slightly lacking at the forward/ top area, so I added two 1/32" thick strips to this area and sanded to correct shape. This is shown in detail in the second picture
Next, I laminted balsa sheeting to both sides: 1/32" sheeting on each side of the rudder and 1/16" to each side of the fin, leaving about 1/8" overhang on the trailing edge of the fin.
After trimming away the excess sheeting, I compared the rudder to 1/8 scale drawings and noted that the Hanger 9 rudder was slightly lacking at the forward/ top area, so I added two 1/32" thick strips to this area and sanded to correct shape. This is shown in detail in the second picture
07-28-2004, 11:53 AM
#20
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
Lastly, I covered the fin and rudder with .7 oz/ sq. yd carbon fiber cloth (availble from "Art's Hobbies", do a Google search). I used clear gloss water based varnish to adhere it to the balsa. I like using this carbon fiber cloth instead of fiberglass cloth because it has a very fine 'weave', and requires very little (if any) filler and sanding to produce a smooth, paintable surface. On the other hand, it is stiff and does not conform to compound curves well, so it is somewhat unsuitable for say; the aft fuselage and/ or gull section of the wings. But for the flatter areas, such as tail surfaces, it works well for me and even provides a dark base which will be masked for panel lines when the finish is applied.
As stated, it is somewhat stiff and would not bend around the fin leading edge, or rudder trailing edge, thus the exposed balsa after sanding.
At this point, the rudder weighs 26 gr. and the fin 16, which looks like a gain of about 3/4 oz. I am a little concerned about the weight gain; these parts can use the extra strength, but I'll have to make an effort to keep from adding too much more additional weight, as I am setting my goal weight at 8 1/2 lbs.
I have made a lot of progress on the wings, and some on the fuselage, I will post those mods as I find time to do the documentation (documenting everthing doubles the time it takes to build it).
As stated, it is somewhat stiff and would not bend around the fin leading edge, or rudder trailing edge, thus the exposed balsa after sanding.
At this point, the rudder weighs 26 gr. and the fin 16, which looks like a gain of about 3/4 oz. I am a little concerned about the weight gain; these parts can use the extra strength, but I'll have to make an effort to keep from adding too much more additional weight, as I am setting my goal weight at 8 1/2 lbs.
I have made a lot of progress on the wings, and some on the fuselage, I will post those mods as I find time to do the documentation (documenting everthing doubles the time it takes to build it).
07-28-2004, 03:18 PM
#21
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RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
Awesome work CJ! I'm really glad you got back into this project. I'm still sitting on mine as I wait for a clue on the retracts fiasco. Things like this are definately parts I can work on in the mean time. can't wait to see more.
08-02-2004, 11:16 PM
#22
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
Like many others, I have concluded that the supplied retracts are, well, how do I say it politely? Not worth keeping, unless you at the very least install more robust ball links.
Some have chosen to install CenturyJet air actuated rotating retacts, and CenturyJet now offers a set which is supposedly especially made for the Hanger 9 Corsair.
I happen to have a set of CenturyJet retracts, purchased several years ago (at least 5 years). I didn't like the CenturyJet struts, so I modified the retracts by installing Robart RoboStruts. This was a complicated and expensive operation, it was done several years ago, don't recommend it, and am not going into details on how I accomplished it. Let's just leave it at: they look great but are a lot of trouble to make.
Once I decided on using these retracts, I realized that the mounts were just a little too wide to fit into the retract bay openings. Rather than widen the openings, I filed about 1/16" off each side of each retract unit, thus allowing the flanges to fit into the wings.
In order to install any of the 3 most popular sets of air actuated, rotating retracts (CenturyJet, Robart, or RhomAir), the mounting rails must be made to be closer to the bottom of the wing. This can be accomplished easily enough by adding new rails that butt up to the existing rails. There are no hard rules here, as how low the gear is mounted is up to the owner.
The picture is of the retracts, with my fabricated mounting rails installed (more on them later), and 3 1/2" wheels (NOT the Hanger 9 wheels).
Some have chosen to install CenturyJet air actuated rotating retacts, and CenturyJet now offers a set which is supposedly especially made for the Hanger 9 Corsair.
I happen to have a set of CenturyJet retracts, purchased several years ago (at least 5 years). I didn't like the CenturyJet struts, so I modified the retracts by installing Robart RoboStruts. This was a complicated and expensive operation, it was done several years ago, don't recommend it, and am not going into details on how I accomplished it. Let's just leave it at: they look great but are a lot of trouble to make.
Once I decided on using these retracts, I realized that the mounts were just a little too wide to fit into the retract bay openings. Rather than widen the openings, I filed about 1/16" off each side of each retract unit, thus allowing the flanges to fit into the wings.
In order to install any of the 3 most popular sets of air actuated, rotating retracts (CenturyJet, Robart, or RhomAir), the mounting rails must be made to be closer to the bottom of the wing. This can be accomplished easily enough by adding new rails that butt up to the existing rails. There are no hard rules here, as how low the gear is mounted is up to the owner.
The picture is of the retracts, with my fabricated mounting rails installed (more on them later), and 3 1/2" wheels (NOT the Hanger 9 wheels).
08-02-2004, 11:17 PM
#23
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
Some serious removal of the existing rails need to be done, at least for the retracts that I intend to install. I accomplished this with what is probably my most useful power tool: my cordless Dremel. Mostly, a large sanding drum was used.
The picture is of a retract bay, after some serious Dremeling, and just prior to installing the new rails.
The picture is of a retract bay, after some serious Dremeling, and just prior to installing the new rails.
08-02-2004, 11:18 PM
#24
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
My fabricated rails consist of 3/8" thick hard plywood, cut and sanded to 2" x 3/8" strips (4 needed). The 3/8" thickness is probably the minimum thickness needed, many would probably choose 1/2". I wanted room to experiment, knowing that I could add to the thickness if needed.
I held the new rails to the retracts (centered) and marked where the screw holes would be.
I refuse to use wood screws for mounting retracts. Therefore, I drilled out the rails for 6 - 32 blind nuts, pressed them on with a vise, and glued (CA) them into place. As the flanges are too big, I used the Dremel with cut-off disc to remove the over hang.
With the retacts bolted up to new rails, I was able to insert them into the retract bays (AFTER sanding down the ends of the new rails to fit).
I had already decided that I will eventually install fuctional front landing gear doors. To do so means that no part of the retracts can protrude from the wing when the gear is up. The original retract installation has the ball links hanging out, thus making a front gear door installation difficult at best. Thus, I decided to make sure everything is into the wing (at least the forward area) when the gear is up.
I also like a little forward rake when the gear is down. I believe this helps the RoboStruts absorb shocks/ bumps a lot better, AND places the wheels in a more scale location.
All that said, I added small spacers to the new rails: 1/8" to the front and 7/32" to the rear. These spacers are made from sanded scraps of plywood.
This picture shows close/ detail of the new rails, bolted to a retract, and all ready for installation into to retract bay. To protect the bolts from glue, I applied some grease to the exposed threads, then covered with an expoxy/ microballoon mixture.
I held the new rails to the retracts (centered) and marked where the screw holes would be.
I refuse to use wood screws for mounting retracts. Therefore, I drilled out the rails for 6 - 32 blind nuts, pressed them on with a vise, and glued (CA) them into place. As the flanges are too big, I used the Dremel with cut-off disc to remove the over hang.
With the retacts bolted up to new rails, I was able to insert them into the retract bays (AFTER sanding down the ends of the new rails to fit).
I had already decided that I will eventually install fuctional front landing gear doors. To do so means that no part of the retracts can protrude from the wing when the gear is up. The original retract installation has the ball links hanging out, thus making a front gear door installation difficult at best. Thus, I decided to make sure everything is into the wing (at least the forward area) when the gear is up.
I also like a little forward rake when the gear is down. I believe this helps the RoboStruts absorb shocks/ bumps a lot better, AND places the wheels in a more scale location.
All that said, I added small spacers to the new rails: 1/8" to the front and 7/32" to the rear. These spacers are made from sanded scraps of plywood.
This picture shows close/ detail of the new rails, bolted to a retract, and all ready for installation into to retract bay. To protect the bolts from glue, I applied some grease to the exposed threads, then covered with an expoxy/ microballoon mixture.
08-02-2004, 11:21 PM
#25
RE: Hanger-9 Corsair ARF Mods for more Scale/ Accurate Appearance
With the new rails still bolted to the retracts and AFTER trial fitting, I applied a small amount of epoxy into the retract bay corners, and set in the retracts.
When the epoxy was fully cured (next day), I un-bolted the retracts and removed them, then added CA to the rail joints, and later added epoxy/ micro-balloon filler to establish a good bond between the new rails and existing woodwork.
Anyone else who has installed an alternate set of retracts in their Hanger 9 Corsair is encouraged to add to this thread, with details and pictures of your own experience.
First picture shows a completed bay, second shows a retract installed, gear extended, third shows gear retracted.
When the epoxy was fully cured (next day), I un-bolted the retracts and removed them, then added CA to the rail joints, and later added epoxy/ micro-balloon filler to establish a good bond between the new rails and existing woodwork.
Anyone else who has installed an alternate set of retracts in their Hanger 9 Corsair is encouraged to add to this thread, with details and pictures of your own experience.
First picture shows a completed bay, second shows a retract installed, gear extended, third shows gear retracted.