TF FW190 d9 Wing Sheeting Question???
#1
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TF FW190 d9 Wing Sheeting Question???
Looking for guidance concerning the sheeting of the TF Dora wing. I am considering using a quality 3/32 sheeting verses the included 1/16 sheeting (wing only).
I have built the TF P47 with 1/16 and am frustrated because after installing the retracts and several repaired finger holes later, glassing has taken forever to make it look good not to mention added weight. That said I am considering using the 3/32 sheeting.
So the question I have is will the plane be able to handle the change in wing weight and how will it fly in comparison to a 1/16 sheeted plane: best guess?
Plane specifications:
1. Glassed
2. ST G75
3. After market sport muffler
4. Springair Retracts
5. Fiberglass parts substituted for ABS
6. Plane built stock otherwise.
My MacGiver voice tells me it will be just fine but want to hear from those who have built / flown the TF Dora.
Thanks
T-Bolt
I have built the TF P47 with 1/16 and am frustrated because after installing the retracts and several repaired finger holes later, glassing has taken forever to make it look good not to mention added weight. That said I am considering using the 3/32 sheeting.
So the question I have is will the plane be able to handle the change in wing weight and how will it fly in comparison to a 1/16 sheeted plane: best guess?
Plane specifications:
1. Glassed
2. ST G75
3. After market sport muffler
4. Springair Retracts
5. Fiberglass parts substituted for ABS
6. Plane built stock otherwise.
My MacGiver voice tells me it will be just fine but want to hear from those who have built / flown the TF Dora.
Thanks
T-Bolt
#2
My Feedback: (108)
RE: TF FW190 d9 Wing Sheeting Question???
Go for it. You will be happier and the weight difference is nothing at all. The 1/16 is a problem for the reasons that you listed. It is to easy to poke a hole in it and to easy to sand into nothing. My son sheeted his with 3/32 and we are both thrilled that he did. Good Luck, Dave
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RE: TF FW190 d9 Wing Sheeting Question???
I never had the problem you described and I kind of wondering why???? I sheet my TF kits with the 1/16th without any problems and I've never poked a hole in it with my finger! I lay the sheets onto a nice flat wooden door over wax paper, white glue them after truing them up on a straight edge, sand one side smooth using very fine grit paper over the table (no sanding later and this prevents them being sanding through once they are installed). After prep, I stick the suckers on using Weldwood contact cement (roll it onto the frame). 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth and spackel finishes it. Everyone has a favorite way of doing things I guess, but this saves me a lot of sanding!
#5
Thread Starter
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RE: TF FW190 d9 Wing Sheeting Question???
SZ,
I used the same proceedure for my TF P47 that you described. Only difference was glue choice. I used white carpenter glue (sandable to join and then thick CA and rolled the skins on from LE to TE using my mist bottle and alot of paitence. My 1/16 sheeting was very thin and brittle definitely not SIG / MIDWEST Aircraft grade IMHO. Regardless, I picked it up, fingers between the ribs, and put a couple of scale "flak holes" in her when I was test fitting all of the gear.
As for glassing I use thinned finishing resin with great results and filled the weave with a sandable primer.
I just want to get a better surface before I glass then fuss with fillers and putty afterwards to get a smooth and light finish. With 1/16 if you have a divit or hanger rash you will sand right through the skin trying to remove it or continually have to build and blend fillers to level the surface.
There are many ways to get a good looking finish and I am willing to experiment. I got the idea from reviewing the GP Mustang construction manual from a build I did 2 years ago. The sheeting there was 3/32 and the results from sanding and shaping were far superior to my efforts with the P47 subsequent build. Just my .02s.
T-Bolt
I used the same proceedure for my TF P47 that you described. Only difference was glue choice. I used white carpenter glue (sandable to join and then thick CA and rolled the skins on from LE to TE using my mist bottle and alot of paitence. My 1/16 sheeting was very thin and brittle definitely not SIG / MIDWEST Aircraft grade IMHO. Regardless, I picked it up, fingers between the ribs, and put a couple of scale "flak holes" in her when I was test fitting all of the gear.
As for glassing I use thinned finishing resin with great results and filled the weave with a sandable primer.
I just want to get a better surface before I glass then fuss with fillers and putty afterwards to get a smooth and light finish. With 1/16 if you have a divit or hanger rash you will sand right through the skin trying to remove it or continually have to build and blend fillers to level the surface.
There are many ways to get a good looking finish and I am willing to experiment. I got the idea from reviewing the GP Mustang construction manual from a build I did 2 years ago. The sheeting there was 3/32 and the results from sanding and shaping were far superior to my efforts with the P47 subsequent build. Just my .02s.
T-Bolt
#6
My Feedback: (29)
RE: TF FW190 d9 Wing Sheeting Question???
Jeff,
have you thougth about using fliteskin? Will save you weeks of work and you can't punch holes through it, check my DH Hornet http://mywebpage.netscape.com/warbirdscale/
JG
have you thougth about using fliteskin? Will save you weeks of work and you can't punch holes through it, check my DH Hornet http://mywebpage.netscape.com/warbirdscale/
JG