jcilia

Hi Pete,

thanks photo good enough - I just wanted to see how the retracts with the oleos looked seems a great fit.

cheers

Dave03B

I flew mine yesterday! 1.08 and 14x8 really moved this thing! Not at all slow! I turned it over half way through to a British F3A flyer. who really showed it off to its full! Unfortunately, that part of the flight was not videoed. A 2min video of takeoff, some flybys and nearly the landing will be online soon. Unfortunately, because the mounting blocks had previously been broken by original owner, they did not have the (repaired) strength to withstand the landing (even though it was smooth) I now have to take back the skin and covering and see what I can do to re enforce this, and stop any further retract bay problems (any ideas??)

Overall, amazing flying model.....attracted lots of attention and Jon commented on how well it flew and felt.

Cheers for now
Dave

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

Congratulations on your flight, Dave, and hopefully your repairs will not take too long to complete.

Out of curiosity, where is your CG? 120 mm, 125 mm, 130 mm?

Anyone else out there struggling with this plane's tendency to porpoise on landing? Edwin, I know your's is set at 4 7/8, but what about the rest of you flying this plane? I have been experimenting with mine lately, and it seems as though if I'm too far from ideal... the plane becomes unwieldy.

Let me know, and thanks in advance.

Noah

Dave03B

I believe my cg is at 135mm. When it landed, it seemed that it would have settle onto the tail with only minor up elevator needed.. however i cannot be sure, due to the retract mount failure induced spin.

I'd like to hear what others have found optimum cg to be.....the cg I have ensures great flying characteristics.....ground is ok ish......

BlueMax3

My Feedback: (1)

Mine is at 122/123mm. Anything further back and mine becomes difficult to handle at slow speeds, especially during landing when the tank doesn't have much fuel in it.

Travis

Sturtz

My Feedback: (20)

122 mm works for mine. It's got a bad habit of porposing on landing if tail heavy. The flaps really help slow it down on landings.

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks for the replies, gents.

I was at ~122 mm to start. It tended to floated a little so I moved it up to 118 mm. It was OK there, but it seemed as though it became too nose-heavy... When I would come in the plane wanted to sink really fast and the elevator would be a bit unresponsive. So, I'd feed in more up, but then it seemed as though I would all of a sudden hit some critical elevator point and the plane would rise dramatically. I have since moved it back to 125 mm and now the plane won't settle in very well... it wants to float forever. So much so that I have to force it down. Every third or so attempt at landing it floats and floats and then slows to the point where I fear a stall so have to go around again. I'm just really surprised that those little (2-4 mm) changes translate into such huge differences in flight characteristics.

I need to keep experimenting, I suppose. I really need to figure this out because I absolutely love the way the plane flys. I just wish it were more predictable when landing.

Thanks again for the input.

Noah

BlueMax3

My Feedback: (1)

Noah,

Based upon what you said, perhaps 120mm would be good to try for your plane?

Just a thought.

Travis

Dave03B

I've documented the retract re-enforcement incase any of you (heaven forbid) find yourself in the same situation where your retract mounting blocks decide to give up. [link=http://www.wimbornemac.org/Pages/Forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=8&TopicID=9]WMAC>FORUM>SCALE>SPITFIRE[/link]

cheers for now,
Dave

jcilia

SJN - you have not yet told us if the German retracts are good ? unless I missed your posts and PETE sorry for more questions is you ASP 120 inverted ? if yes did you think about putting it sideways ?

best regards
Joe

Pete850

Hi Joe,

Yes my ASP120 is indeed inverted, as I'd rather have the head sticking out the bottom of the cowl than the side. Having said that, without a remote glow it's a bugger to find the plug with the glow starter while grovelling around on your hands and knees. The next time the cowl is off I'll fit one I think.

The attached picture shows it just built without the oleos and befor I put a head protecting skid on the rocker cover.

jcilia

Pete looks good - I was planning to put on an on-board glow as I am so concerned with inverted engines. What is that hole top ( right ) on cowl for ? I see you are using two switches so you have gone for two sets of batteries ?

Joe

Pete850

Joe,

There are two hole on the top of the cowl, but on this particular photo I have only plugged one of them. They were simply to allow access for an allen key to tighten the two extension wires (choke and main needle) that come out the side.

I have mechanicalo retracts so yes, I thought it wise to have separate batteries. 2000mah main and 1400mah for the retracts. Maybe a bit OTT but better safe than sorry. You only want a less than perfect landing to bend a U/C leg that subsequently doesn't retract properly and drain your only battery - then your up sh*t creek without a paddle!!

Dave03B

[link=http://www.wimbornemac.org/Pages/Forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=8&TopicID=9]Video of the maiden flight of mine is now up.[/link]

jcilia

Well we don't want to be up the sh*t creek without a paddle but you are right and I will do the same, as originaly I was thinking of large batteries for both but if stuck they would drain....

thanks for you help Pete.

Pete850

Dave,

I just love the weathering you've done on your spit. Makes mine look crap!! Good job.....

Dave03B

Hi Pete,

Thanks....I get a lot of satisfaction from weathering a model, just finishes it off and it really aint that hard to do (I've got a Hurricane to do next, for a mate)....feel some good formation flights coming on!

Gear doors are the next point of call.

jcilia

Dave any tips re weathering it really looks great

Pete850

You'll have to post some tips.....

Failing that, pop along to Ferndown one lunchtime with your Spit.

jcilia

Hey that's not fair - well pop down to Malta it would be a brighter lunch [>:]

Dave03B

6b pencil. Basically colouring in the panel lines and rivet detail, then smudge the pencil with your finger in the direction of the airflow. The wing is slightly trickier. Rub pencil patches onto random places (l/e is best) then add a drop of 3in1 oil to the patch and mix it up, then drag the mixture backwards (airflow) then rub the oil and pencil mix from l/e to t/e with a cloth, 'pulling' them pencil/oil as you go. This I found gave the best effect. Also, if you bugger it up, the pencil should rub out! (emphasis on the 'should' ) I also decided not to clear coat/fuel proof it, as I didnt want the shinyness. Any oil staines from flying can only enhance the look, and if they dont...they can be easily cleaned away, and the pencil weathering stays on! the paint chips are exactly what they are. Flat head screwdriver will give you that effect, but beware....you cant rub that off if you mess it up . Go on, give it a go. I'm glad I did!

Dave03B

Malta it is!

Pete850

Malta sounds great too.........

I'll have a go with the pencil on my Corsair (next project). The Spit's a bit weather beaten after 18 months flying now anyway.

jcilia

great you should both come with your spits at our annual open day last year we had Sebastian Silvestri who did a great show but Spits will be nice as we fly off an old WW2 spit runway at Ta' Qali. In fact Sept. this year a real Spit and a Hurricane will be visiting the Island to flyover the Grand Harbour and then the old Runway.......I believe they are flying over from the UK with a good number of stopovers as they cannot make it in one go.

Joe

Dave03B

Gear doors are coming on well. They have come out semi-scale profile was altered so they'd fit