I have a Byron P-51 which is completely glass and needed final sanding and painting. I really want to use latex paint to finish this plane since I don't have a paint booth and I want to paint it this winter in the basement and don't want the fumes.

Is it best go with exterior house paint or is there another brand which is better and made specifically for models? Also, does anyone have experience with using latex in an airbrush or paint gun? I read an article about thinning the paint with windshield washer fluid. Has anyone used this technique or there a better one?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks,

Matt

Exterior house latex is great for painting warbirds. I would experiment with flat and semi gloss to decide which I prefer. No priming is needed for painting over fiberglass. I would not use an airbrush if I were you. I tried my airbrush for some detail work and the latex dries too fast and plugs up the air brush. I use a Binks auto touch up gun to spray the latex. I started thinning it with auto windshield fluid like the article you mentioned, but I found distilled water worked just as well, sometimes better.

You will like the latex, it goes on easy, dries fast, and is incredibly durable. Your local Sherwin Williams paint store can match any color you bring them, at least they did for me.

Email if you have any questions
Vince

Go to : MODELAIRPLANENEWS.COM, upper left corner of home page is Site Search type in LATEX PAINT.
The first article is by Roy Villaincourt click and you have all the info from a master modeler. Hope this helps.
George Frazier

I just finished a Yellow Aircraft P-47 with Behr brand latex exterior flat from Home Depot. My adivce is if you use Behr brand, spray a flat clear over it. It is not gas proof like other brands of latex. After three flights, the paint has turned gummy anywhere it has come in contact with gas even though I have cleaned it. I am in the process of repainting my P-47. I purchased flat clear from Nelson Hobby that is water based and compatible with latex.

I tried the highly touted Behr brand, and paid extra for it. I didn't like it and went back to Sherwin Williams latex. I haven't clear coated it.

Vince

I have been using Glidden flat interior latex. It seems to be the easiest to spray and covers with just a couple of thin coats. I also just use distilled water to thin it and it works great. It also will work through my Paasche airbrush with the big tip. I use a variety of sealers from clear epoxy to buyterate dope depending on the final finish. Matt experiment with thinning the paint before shooting the model. Latex is kind of criticle on thinning so you have to experiment a bit. It does work great and is a really an inexspensive and safe way to paint. Don

I just finished my B-25 and a lot of people like how it came out. I used interior latex and plan on using satin poly over it. Plan on trying to test fly soon I hope running out of good weather so I don't know for sure depends on the farmers and harvest.

I use Ace hardware exterior semi-gloss latex thinned with windshield washer fluid as per Roy Vaillancorts article. i skip on the flotrol he talks of...don't need it.

A question here guys. so far we have talked about gas engines, but how does the paint hold up to glow fuel?????

Art:

For glow fuel use, latex needs to be clear coated with a glow fuel proof clear. Nelson Hobby sells a gloss or flat clear that cleans up with water that is glow fuel proof.

There is also a water based clear finish availiable in various hardware stores that is fuel proof.

Vince

All:

I would like to thank everyone for the many and very helpful replies to my post. I didn't expect to get so much great information. RC Universe is a really great communication tool for this hobby.

Another question. I bought a built Pica Spitfire last year and it has already been painted in grey primer. I'm sure it's oil base primer, but can you paint latex over oil based primer? I'm dreading the use of oil based paint for the finish coats and would really like to use the latex.

Thanks,

Matt

Matt, It is probably laquer based automotive primer and yes you can paint over it with latex. Thats the beauty of latex as it will go over just about any base you put on the airplane. Now get your block out and wet sand that primer almost all of the way off so it won't be too heavy. You don't need any more primer than to fill the weave of the glass. Any more is usless wieght. Don

Hello all.

I am concerned with regards to sealing the latex paint. I do not want to have my plane get a yellow tinge to it after I clear coat it. I would like to know excactly what brand name would be best for latex?

Craig.

Craig:

The flat clear from Nelson Hobby will not yellow. For more information go to www.nelsonhobby.com

I use the "Behr" brand and haven't had any problems with gasoline taking off the paint........

Fact is, I just used it on my Ziroli P40 (flat drab green). I do allow it to sit and bake in the sun for a day or so before getting fuel on the fresh paint.
I find that the paint stays soft underneath, especially when you use Windshield washer fluid to thin it, and allowing the surface to "bake" in the sun for an afternoon hardens it up considerably.

I spoke with Roy Vailliancourt a while back and he was the one that warned me not to rush to bolt the wing to the fuse after painting as it would stick to the saddle if I wasn't careful. He said a day in the sun usually takes care of that problem, and it seems to from my experience.

Branded:

I am happy to hear that you have not experienced the problems that I have with Behr paint. Unfortunately, I am not the only person who has had Behr paint turn gummy from gasoline. I let the paint dry for over a month before gasoline came near the paint so curing time is not the problem. The exact cause of the problem is not yet clear. It could be the oil in the gas that is causing the problem or the brand of gas used. Who knows. I personally like latex. It is much lighter than any other paint I have used and is easy to weather. I do know that I will use flat clear this time around.

I am going to latch on to this thread... I don't have spray equipment and I am going to be painting (soon, I hope) a built up, glassed P51B with glow fuel exposure... What paint can I get in a spray can, and is it true I won't need primer? Could someone please offer a straight forward, economical, painting recipe that I can follow. I am not going for the scale masters, I just want it to look good at 3 feet and be protected. I finished a Cub in Century 21 shrink fabric (I think) with Coverite spray paint. Should I go that way again? Thank you for your time and concern.

Justrfb

.double post- sorry

K_Sonn, perhaps a "mini investigation" is needed here....
Just curious, (and, no I didn't read all the previous replies) are ou using Windshield washer fluid or water to thin your paint? Are you using the Flotrol?

I'm curious now as to whether or not I'll have similar problems in the future.
I have painted four warbirds with Behr so far, a Z-P40, two Z-Corsairs, and one Vailly FW190 with nary a problem.

I mix the Behr brand paint just as Roy instructs in his article.

I have two airplanes with B&B Specialties fuel fittings coming through the side of the fuselage near the cowl and gasoline always drips down the side either from the fill, or the vent fitting just below it. The paint is still like the day it was applied.

Is the paint softening near areas that are in contact with hot exhaust gasses?

This could be the reason i don't have a similar problem as I don't have any areas where hot gasses from the muffler come in close proximity to the paint........ Just trying to understand the "why's" of your problem as I thought all brands of latex paint were very much similar..........

I had Behr latex paint go soft around bottom of the cowl attachment area which was exposed to some raw gas spray. The paint didn't come of, just got soft and tacky. I cleaned everything up well and sealed the whole plane with Minwax oil-based satin clear. It yellowed the colors some but it doesn't bother me because it's a camo'ed warbird anyway. I used plain water to thin the paint. It sprayed nicely and covered well otherwise.

Interesting.........I just went to take a look at my P40 and my FW190, both painted in BEHR latex and can see no paint damage whatsoever.......

I do mix it with Windshield washer fluid and I do use the Flotrol.

I'll pay more attention the next time at the field when it's doused with raw fuel to see if it softens.....

Is it possible that it's the clear coat that is turning gummy, and not the Behr underneath ?

Jim:

On both Tmoth4's plane and my plane the paint was not clear coated at the time it had turm gummy. Tmoth4 cleaned his up and clear coated it after it had gummed up. I stripped mine down to the primer and repainted it. I have to put the detail work back into mine and then I will clear coat it. Like I said in an earlier post, I am not putting the Behr product down. I like it and will probably use it again, but I will clear coat it before gas gets near it. Beings others are not experiencing the same problem, I feel that it is probably not the paint, but instead, some other factor like the brand oil added to the gas or the brand of gas. I used Cheveron brand gas. Each brand of gas has different additives in it. I just chalked this one up as a learning experience.

Branded:

I thinned the paint with windshield washer fluid and I did not use Flotrol.

I see that you are talking mostly about Behr. Is Sherman Williams, or the Benjamin Moore that Valliancourt uses any more superior ?