mike corsair brotherhood #22

Hi Guys
got my tailwheel from sam yesterday.AWESOME is all I can say.Instead of trying to modify the TF mount I'm going to deconstruct and build a new former.(all you new guys PLAN AHEAD)I will post pics of my progress.Open to suggestions as to braceing and whatnot.Want to keep it light.Figured I would try and show difference between sams and robarts little dinky one.Good job sam[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Mike
Excellent pics, you're making me and Gunnar blush! I'm going to make up a few more of the former mounts, so if you want one let me know. If you want to use the mount in the picture, just de-solder (using a small torch might be best) the top and bottom "leafs" and you'll have a flush mount ready to go. You could also use a dremel with a cut off wheel and cut those leafs off. You are inspiring me to cut into my bird and yank that heavy TF system outa there.
Sam

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

Hi Kenneth,
WELCOME ABOARD, you won't find a better thread for help if its needed, like RT said post alot of pics .
Once again WELCOME ABOARD.

and if you like to become a member of an elite organization such as the Corsair Brotherhood,
let me know by PM and I can fill you in.

GEORGE
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1

mike corsair brotherhood #22

[sm=shades_smile.gif]demolition complete.got it made in the shade nowLooks to be pretty straight forward rebuild.will have to brace the rear control rods someway .other than that I think just make a former,glue it in ,attach tailwheel,and presto chango a cool new tailwheel assembly[sm=49_49.gif][sm=49_49.gif]
mike
corsair brotherhood#22

cdohaney

Welcome to the forum Kenneth! Lots of inspiration and information to be found here.

Looks great Mike. Can't wait to see the wheel in.

Hey guys,

Does anyone know if you can rotate the fuel inlet nipple on the Walbro carb (circled). I need to reallign it as it is pointing directly at my exhaust stack and I'm worried about the heat melting the tygon....or is that not a concern. The tygon would possibly be touching the exhaust in the indicated position....on the opposite side from the exaust port and isolated with some exhaust tubing....does it get hot enough to be a concern? I want to get the fuel tank installed so I can pick a route for the throttle linkage.

Chris

Todd D

My Feedback: (51)

Want to save more weight? Take those HEAVY 4/40 steel control rods out and put in some carbon fiber. I used some arrow shafts I already had and saved about 2 ounces over the control rods also removed some of the other supports in the fuse for the old control rods anto take some more weight out of the tail. The CF arrowshafts don't need any support between the servo and the control surface.

mike corsair brotherhood #22

Hi Chris
Havent heard anything from you for awhile.Welcome back.Here is a zenoah part#zen6276 fuel nipple.It apears to be just a 90elbow with a barb on one end and a straight piece of brass on the other end.To answer tour question yes just turn it the way you want it.

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Twiatawrecka
thanks for the input hadent thought about that aspect of it
mike
corsair brotherhood#22

OOPS wrong picture will upload right one

mike corsair brotherhood #22

[sm=red_smile.gif]sorry bout that[sm=red_smile.gif]
mike

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Agree on the fuel nipple. I believe it's just a press fit. Mike: Awesome chop job on that mount. I have tomorrow off so I'll be doing tail mount surgery on mine too, while my new gas engines are breaking in on the test stand.
Sam

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Just a thought here Sam....

Not sure what your experience is with gassers, but they'll get hot real quick on a test stand.

I pretty much follow the recommendations from the manufacturers and the IMAC guys I've spoken with about it. I run 'em enough to get the needles set on the ground and then put it in the air. Even then, it takes several tries to get the high speed needle set as it only takes about 20 to 30 seconds at full throttle and my IR temp gauge will say it's time to quit and let it cool off.

Not trying to step on anyone's toes here, but I was shocked at how fast these little beasties get hot on ground runs when I moved from alcohol/nitro engines to gas...[X(]

If you're already aware of that, I apologize for sticking my nose in where it doesn't belong...

cdohaney

Thanks Mike,

I was torquing it a bit with some pliers but it didn't seem like it was going to move. I was afraid to turn it harder for fear of shearing it off. I will try again.

Chris

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Zeeb,
Thanks a lot for your concern and the information. Trouble is that I can't fly with this much snow on the ground! I'll limit the running time and monitor the temp carefully. I think that I'll just keep them above idle and see what it does. Can you give me a ballpark temp to be wary of? So far I've been able to keep my hand on the cylinder even after idling for five to ten minutes.
Thanks
Sam

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

Sam,

If you can put your hand on 'em, it's okay maybe even a bit too cool....

RC Showcase who is the importer for ZDZ which is what I mostly run, says not to exceed 230 degrees on the cylinder heads measured between the top two fins on the head. The guys over on the gas engine forum will argue about temps and the issues with IR gauges and some of them actually run the EagleTree system with sensors mounted under the sparkplugs. Some say not to worry about it, but the ZDZ's don't have a lot of fin area compared to the Zenoah or the DA engines so they tend to heat up faster. I have found that once the cylinder temps get over 230, you're wasting your time trying to set needles as it just doesn't work, the max RPM's change and the transition goes away when they're hot. So you set the low speed needle to cover the transition and then the thing is way too fat when you go out to fly.

On the single cylinders like my ZDZ-50, you notice a change in the engine at about 1 gallon of fuel and another about 5 gallons as they break in. The twins use more so my ZDZ-100 loosened up some at about 2 gallons and with 6 gallons through it now, it's still a bit tight. The bigger twins like say a DA-150 will take somewhere around 10 gallons to get fully broken in and the needles set accordingly. As they break in, the fuel consumption drops quite a bit especially after that first gallon so don't get too concerned about the initial burn rate i.e. my 50 used about 2 ounces per minute for that first gallon, and now it only burns about an ounce a minute the way I fly or about the same as my little YS-110's burn alchohol. So with that quantity of fuel burn to get loosened up, you can see the futility of trying to break 'em in on the ground...

They'll also idle slower and have a cleaner transition with less 4-stroking as they get loosened up. Hope that helps....

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

NEW BROTHER ALERT
WE HAVE TWO NEW BROTHERS IN THE BROTHERHOOD
LETS ALL, WELCOME THEM ABOARD
Kenneth nenne # 37, and

Chris cdohaney # 38

GEORGE
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Hey Zeeb,
Thanks a lot for that great information. Man, I have GOT to get out and fly more! My engines will never be broken in at this rate! I guess I'll just run them on the stand for a tank or so, to get the "new engine jittters" under control, then try to figure out how to make it until Spring! Thanks again,
Sam

cdohaney

Well Mike,

I overcame my fear of shearing off the nipple and torqued it more....and it finally twisted. I now have about 3/4 inch clearance from the exhaust and the fuel line. Pics below show the tank installed, the fuel line routing and finally the vent line coming out the bottom of the fuse. The four battery packs left to install will sit under the fuel tank. I went with a two line fuel setup, the fill line will be accessed through a panel on the cowl. Now on to the throttle linkage!

Chris
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 38

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Hi Mike
Any chance you can weigh the TF mount assembly to see how much weight the former system will save? Of course the real bonus will be less nose weight too. Great Job!
Sam

mike corsair brotherhood #22

WELCOME ABOARD KENNETHWELCOME ABOARD CHRIS
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Sam
I still have my demo debris(I know there was a reason I dont clean up)I will wiegh everything and post the results.Might take a day or two.
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chris
[sm=thumbup.gif]LOOKING GOOD[sm=thumbup.gif]any projected date for the maiden.I bet the anticipation is great.
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twistawrecka where did you get your shafts from
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zeeb
you must do alot of flying to burn that much gas.I'm envious.

mike
corsair brotherhood #22

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Ok all

I am gathering info for my next build and have decided it has to have rivets SO

Hear is some info on rivets (info taken from old book I have from airframe class made by Convair) all 1/8 shank rivets had a head size of .229 so at 1/5 they would be about .045dia, these were used on most skin stiffenerd and intermediate blkd's, the 3/16 shank rivets that were used at major blkd's and seams had a head size of .356 so at 1/5 the head would be about .071, and the #5 Dezuss fastener with sloted head, had a head dia of 5/8 so at 1/5 it woild be ,125 or1/8 dia. Center to center spacing for rivets varied depending on skin thicknes and suporting stiffiner, the only numbers I could make out of it were 5/8 min and about 1'' max

Hope this helps

Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood #5

Todd D

My Feedback: (51)

Got my arrow shafts in Toledo a few years ago. They were $10 for 10 CF shafts, $1 each in a package, had to fasion my own rod ends for the removed 4/40 steel rods. If you're willing to spend a little more $ Central Hobbies has an awesome setup that the pattern guys use. comes with titanium rod ends.

check here http://www.centralhobbies.com/contro...e/pushrod2.htm

you could set a plane up for about $35 with these, they are light and strong!

I'm much interested in the weight of the debris you pulled from the tail of the Crosair also. Let us know! If it's over 5 ounces I might join you guys in the tail rear lg mount rebiuld with Daddy Sams tailwheel. I'd be most interested in the all total weight savings (including the difference between Daddys tail wheel and the robart)

Is the Daddy Sam tailwheel pneumatically operated?

Thanks,

Todd

mike corsair brotherhood #22

thanks for the web site Todd.Heres some prelimanary numbers.demo netted about 121grams of solid debris,which =about 4.32 oz.there was alot of sawdust and a few chunks that got vacumed up.probably between a 1/4 and1/2 oz so total demo about 4.5 to5oz.A signifigant amount,I think.Will get the rest weighed up and post results.
sams tailwheel can be air or servo operated
mike
corsair brotherhood#22

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

Hey Chris, If you twisted the nipple, make sure you didn't split the bottom of the black plastic piece. If that happens, you will get an air leak. That's what happened to me. hade to replace it with an all metal one.

Welcome new brothers!! Kenneth and Chris.

TO ALL, I've been busy with other things lately. Mainly my new position at work is keeping me busy with other projects at the house. (strange) Changing from night shift to day shift allow me less shop time after everyone else is gone to bed. now my wife finds things for me to do before bed.

Anyways I will up date you all when more progress is made.
Kelly

ctflyboy

My Feedback: (3)

NEW BROTHER ALERT
BROTHERS LETS TAKE THIS OPPURTUNITY TO WELCOME ABOARD

RWRIGHT142 AS HE WILL BE # 39 IN THE BROTHERHOOD


George
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 1

cdohaney

Kelly,

I twisted the nipple and it didn't seem to split. I guess I'll know for sure when I start up ... hopefully next week. Was it much trouble to press in the new metal one? I finished the throttle linkage tonightmanaged to go straight back...at first I didn't think it would work but with the flex throttle cable it wasn't too bad. I also have installed a microswitch that will act as a kill switch in the air. When the throttle gets trimmed completely back it breaks the switch. I had to do this because I didn't have an extra channel for an Optikill and I wanted to be able to kill the engine in the air. I don't think running the ignition wires to the switch should be a problem since I am using 2.4 Rx and it shouldn't be affected. I that a valid assumption?

How did you guys hook up the choke? I am considering a stiff wire exiting out the bottom of the fuse.

Chris
CORSAIR Brotherhood # 38

mike corsair brotherhood #22

welcome abaord rwright142
mike
corsair brotherhood#22