GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
#9902
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Yes, there is a long answer to this Q but the simple answer is stay within the recommendation for oil:gas and prop for that specific engine. Too much oil is bad = poor performance. Too little oil = poor performance, over heating, seizing cylinder. Too much prop pitch or diameter will over load the engine and in combo with poor oil management will do harm to the engine.
Last edited by Chris Nicastro; 05-02-2015 at 09:10 PM.
#9903
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Question… What servo control arms are best for fitting in the TF Corsair? I've always used AirWild aluminum arms drilled for 4-40 ball link but the shortest they come is 1" there isn't enough room for 1" inch arms inside the fuse. I'm going to raise the tail wheel pull pull servo a bit so the arms clear the servo of the elevator half and rudder servo on either side.
Got the C/F tubes run for the elevator and rudder. I'm looking to get as much of the control worked out before I start closing up the fuse with the top side.
Does anybody have any pictures of their servo tray ?
thanks
Got the C/F tubes run for the elevator and rudder. I'm looking to get as much of the control worked out before I start closing up the fuse with the top side.
Does anybody have any pictures of their servo tray ?
thanks
#9904
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First question on Gas/oil type and mix. On new engines most recommend a 30 to 1 mix on none alcy 87/96 octane gas and a good ashless 2 cycle oil. Ware I work we sell most brands of engines in common yard equipment ie: ryoby, eco homelite sthill and a lot more.
After the first gallon (break in) " I" switch to 100 ave gas (no smell) and ashless oil for another gallon @ 50 to 1, You my have to tweek the needles a bit along the way (generally no more than 1/8 of a turn) next for prop size I like my engines to run when at full throtle at the top of the torque curve, ie recommended RPM's
When your engines are in a cowl it is vary important to baffle your engine to get and maintenan correct cooling along with the RPM you want.
Next (control arm's) I like the H/D Dubro's for my set up's as I am not talking about 3D stuff as that is a whole different world, I also recommend ball links ware ever there is room I generally use 2/56 type and re tap the to 4/40for the rod end and so far have never had one fail.
In the back of the Corsair about all there is room for is the std rod end's but I put a piece of small gas fuel tubing over them and so far after 5 years it is still there.
That my story and sticking with it
Cheers Bob T
After the first gallon (break in) " I" switch to 100 ave gas (no smell) and ashless oil for another gallon @ 50 to 1, You my have to tweek the needles a bit along the way (generally no more than 1/8 of a turn) next for prop size I like my engines to run when at full throtle at the top of the torque curve, ie recommended RPM's
When your engines are in a cowl it is vary important to baffle your engine to get and maintenan correct cooling along with the RPM you want.
Next (control arm's) I like the H/D Dubro's for my set up's as I am not talking about 3D stuff as that is a whole different world, I also recommend ball links ware ever there is room I generally use 2/56 type and re tap the to 4/40for the rod end and so far have never had one fail.
In the back of the Corsair about all there is room for is the std rod end's but I put a piece of small gas fuel tubing over them and so far after 5 years it is still there.
That my story and sticking with it
Cheers Bob T
#9905
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Ive been using Dubro HD arms for years with no failures. Once in a while I may use the included blue aluminum arms by Hitec RCD.
Buy the inexpensive Dubro HD set for your brand of servo, dont make that mistake, they are color coded and labeled. The set has different length arms in there.
Buy the inexpensive Dubro HD set for your brand of servo, dont make that mistake, they are color coded and labeled. The set has different length arms in there.
#9906
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Bought the Dubro HD arms. Thanks.
Got the cf rods installed for the rudder and elevators
Started work on the bottom of the fuse with the wing saddle crutch and front formers. Going to add some balsa to the front so I can shape the scale exhaust outlets and round the front off a bit.
Got the cf rods installed for the rudder and elevators
Started work on the bottom of the fuse with the wing saddle crutch and front formers. Going to add some balsa to the front so I can shape the scale exhaust outlets and round the front off a bit.
#9908
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Yeah, I've been slowed by thinking things out and trying to plan ahead. The wing is finished and tips mostly carved to shape. Ailerons built. That's when I took a break from the wing and got back to the fuse. Tonight I got the bottom formers in and started looking at placing the Earl Aune tail wheel.
Remember when I had the screw up with the center spar? Building by matching the parts instead of the plans ending up with a landing gear spacing 3/4" too wide… Reading through this thread I found randymann 61 had the same issue but he caught it before he glued. Seems like so long ago !
Remember when I had the screw up with the center spar? Building by matching the parts instead of the plans ending up with a landing gear spacing 3/4" too wide… Reading through this thread I found randymann 61 had the same issue but he caught it before he glued. Seems like so long ago !
Last edited by ibow24; 05-06-2015 at 07:12 PM.
#9910
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Exactly Bob, and thanks. I wanted to get it to this point before I cut some holes just for that reason. I wanted to be sure I don't cut out of places that I may end up needing later. I have some small pilot holes drilled that you can't see here in the upper and lower box. When I determine where I can remove material I will open them up with a dremel drum sander and 90deg. head.
#9911
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as anybody who used the Earl Aune type tail wheel moved it's location aft in the fuse. I already had the top half of the fuse built a couple years ago before I started reading this thread so that means the upper gear mount has already been installed in that seemingly over built tail wheel structure. I could add a new mounting rail about 3/4" back and then redesign the lower gear mount since it hasn't been installed yet. My only concern is how structurally sound I can make the new top gear rail since access is an issue in the already built/sheeted top half of the fuse.
thanks
thanks
#9912
My Feedback: (6)
Ok for starters I would do a drawing side view and from the bottom, and see what blocks plate changes are needed, maybe even a mock up out of balsa, with the bottom open it should not be to hard and time consuming. But that is just the way I do things, less strain on this OLD brain.
Cheers Bob T
Cheers Bob T
#9915
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I saw my first Corsair in pictures. My father served on the USS Midway in the mid 50's and he had taken some photos of Corsair's on the deck. Then along came Black Sheep Squadron on TV. By far my favorite plane of all.
I live near Reading PA. and the Mid Atlantic Air Museum based at the Reading Airport. Every June they host a WWII weekend with loads of WWII era planes flying in. Anybody within driving distance should check it out.
This is their 25th year.
http://www.maam.org/maamwwii.html
I live near Reading PA. and the Mid Atlantic Air Museum based at the Reading Airport. Every June they host a WWII weekend with loads of WWII era planes flying in. Anybody within driving distance should check it out.
This is their 25th year.
http://www.maam.org/maamwwii.html
Last edited by ibow24; 05-09-2015 at 09:24 AM.
#9916
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Got the tailwheel installed along with final fitting of the CF control rods and pull pull tubes. Just about ready to close up the bottom half of the fuse.
Going to install the servos and check for free movement etc before I do.
Going to install the servos and check for free movement etc before I do.
#9918
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To all,
What's the biggest nylon prop available and who makes it?
I'm actually looking for a 24x10, I prefer nylon for my Bird cause if you have a rough landing and break the (wood) prop could be out some $$$
What's the biggest nylon prop available and who makes it?
I'm actually looking for a 24x10, I prefer nylon for my Bird cause if you have a rough landing and break the (wood) prop could be out some $$$
#9919
Hi,
I have a question and I'm thinking maybe it's in the pages of this thread, but please don't get mad if I don't wade through all 400 pages instead of just asking
Does anyone know if the stock muffler on a DLE 55 (side) will fit in the cowl of this bird without too much hacking?
I have a question and I'm thinking maybe it's in the pages of this thread, but please don't get mad if I don't wade through all 400 pages instead of just asking
Does anyone know if the stock muffler on a DLE 55 (side) will fit in the cowl of this bird without too much hacking?
#9920
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Hi George the short ansure is " masterairscrew.com" and I think you have to order it direct.
That said I don't remember what engine you are using, but if it is a G-62 Zenoa recommends a 22v10 and they say you will get 7200 rpm, from all of my old notes on my 2 -62 with zor 22x8 I get 6900 to 7000 rpm and both have about 5hrs run time,
Ralf coningham the fellow that did most of the hopup's on 62 and 38's for the old T-6 air racer's sent me a troque curve chart that indicated about 6850 to 7300 was the best RPM' s for a stock engine. Cant find the hart, think I lost it with the last H/D crash
.
That's the best I can tell you
Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood #6
That said I don't remember what engine you are using, but if it is a G-62 Zenoa recommends a 22v10 and they say you will get 7200 rpm, from all of my old notes on my 2 -62 with zor 22x8 I get 6900 to 7000 rpm and both have about 5hrs run time,
Ralf coningham the fellow that did most of the hopup's on 62 and 38's for the old T-6 air racer's sent me a troque curve chart that indicated about 6850 to 7300 was the best RPM' s for a stock engine. Cant find the hart, think I lost it with the last H/D crash
.
That's the best I can tell you
Cheers Bob T
Corsair Brotherhood #6
#9921
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Question. I've been searching a lot here and on RCSB for a concensus on the best throttle servo for big gas engines. Seems like the majority of posts are years old and no real answer.. digital , analog, metal gear and so on. The last servo I purchased for throttle was a JR 4131.
let's hear some opinions please
thanks
let's hear some opinions please
thanks
#9924
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A lot of what I read said to avoid using karbonite geared servos in gassers due to vibration? Again, it seems a lot of what I found while searching is old. Perhaps when gas engines first started becoming popular.