BOLTMAN

My Feedback: (1)

I installed a Moki 1.80 in my Jug last night. It is side mounted as I too have seen problems starting the Moki's inverted. The front of the head of the 1.80 protrudes out of the cowl by less than 1/8", the back of the head is inside the cowl by about the same. I think the 2.10 is slightly taller than the 1.80, but it will still not be too bad, should be better for cooling!!! The 2.10 should be heaps for this model, the 1.80 that I have fitted has come out of my now retired Texan which spanned 88" & weighed 23 1/2 pounds & had good realistic power. I will be swinging a 20x8 Bolly prop.

An alternative to side mounting the Moki is to fit a Cline pressure regulator system. I have run the Moki with this & have seen others using it as well. It seems to be able to stop the tendancy for flooding. It also improves mid-range performance.

alans

For some reason the retracts are now working properly, i will keep an eye on them. Has anyone noticed when tightening the wheel legs just how much force is needed to tighten the clamps.
Just setting the CG and with the Saito 180 it needs a ton of nose weight, need to pick up some more weights from the LHS.

go vertical

My Feedback: (1)

Alans
i have snaped a screw on the retracts trying to tighten them I plan on drilling and puting a anti rotation screw in the gear and strut

streetrodder

My Feedback: (4)

Go Vertical what muffler did you use on that 2.4 side dump or rear dump I would like to see pics of the eng position but I guess I have to wait to see it at the field.

pickensflyer

My Feedback: (3)

This is mostly for Mike, but I wonder if I am the only one with this problem. The flap on the left wing fits great, but the one on the right wing did not. After checking and rechecking, and comparing the two flaps, I decided the flap was not the problem. Next I start checking the wing, and bingo, once I found it, it stuck out like a sore thumb. It looks like they put the left wing top sheeting piece on the right wing panel and it should a mirror image that goes on the right wing. This is a tapered piece that is wider on the inboard side than the outboard side. Well, mine is backward on the right wing panel. It is wider on the outboard side than the inboard side. The only way to get the flap to line up properly, I have to pull it way out from the hinge on the outboard side, and there is a big gap on the inboard side. This is really not acceptable to me and not something I want to try and fix. Seems if have read others having to pull way out on the flaps to get them to line up, may be the same problem I have, you may want to check. Mine also has the ugly gap between the flap and ailerons.

go vertical

My Feedback: (1)

side dump come to our mall show this weekend and get a close look at it Bob

BOLTMAN

My Feedback: (1)

Guys

Further to my post a couple of pages back regarding the fixing of control horns to the control surfaces, I came up with a way to do this without having to patch covering.

1) Mark locations of holes through control horn.

2) Cut 5/16 diameter holes at screw locations using a sharpen piece of brass tube or aluminum arrow shaft in a drill. The hole size must be a perfect match for some hardwood dowel. Use the tube to cut the holes rather than a drill as a drill will tear the balsa too much.

3) Holes are nearly full depth of the control surface.

4) Zap or epoxy dowels into the control surface flush with the surface.

5) Drill holes into dowel & fix control horn in place.

Note I did strike some sort of hard block in the ailerons, but as you can see from the attached pictures, the elevator is only balsa.

Cheers

BOLTMAN

My Feedback: (1)

Two final pictures re fixing of control horns.

Interesting note to this, the circumferance of a 5/16" dowel is approx 1", I think that should be plenty of surface area to glue!!!!

The finished job while not perfect is not really noticable being on the underside of the model.

asnook

Go vertical
Do you know what thread the bolts are that hold the legs on, i have tightened mine up so much that the allen key won't bite and i am wondering whether to try and undo them and fit different one's. You think you have tightened them up but the leg is not really held in tight enough, the last thing you need is a leg to move and spin on landing !!

go vertical

My Feedback: (1)

ASNOOK

the screw that is in the block is NOT metric IT IS A 6 32 TIGHTEN THEM as tight as you canget them lined up right i then dilled a hole through the block into the strut with the gear up and taped it for a 4 40 set screw to act as a anti rotation pin

asnook

Thanks for the info i feel more confident now

streetrodder

My Feedback: (4)

I forgot all about the mall show I'll be out. Thanks Bob.

David Eichstedt

My Feedback: (17)

Hey Mike,

You mentioned earlier you were planning on putting an Evolution 35 in one of these for your own enjoyment. Have you made any progress in that direction?

David

WLJ

My Feedback: (108)

For general information, I had a pair of Expert 680 Low Profile servos (80+oz.). I've installed them and they are working fine in any position except inverted. They just don't have enough grunt to push the wheels open against the springs when inverted. I also used DB Heavy Duty servo arms. Test flight due this weekend.

NoGuts_NoGlory

My Feedback: (41)

Here is my JR 791 servo experience. I had purchased a new JR 791 servo that I installed and found that IT WOULD NOT BUDGE!. I checked everything and finally called Horizon to send a replacement, which they did promptly. SAME THING-NOTHING! I did a search (JR791) on RCU and the very first post concerning that servo was by someone who had the same problem using a 6 Volt pack. I was using 6 volts also and most of my planes are with dual 6 volt packs. Anyway, I found a 4.8 volt ignition pack, plugged it in and the servo worked perfectly! I use a 9C Futaba with a Futaba PCM rx.
NOT THE END OF THE STORY YET!
The next day when I went to fly the plane, I hit the retract switch and the gear stayed put. Every few minutes I would try again and after about 6-7 minutes, the gear worked normaly. What I found is that after the 4.8 volt pack is freshly charged the JR791 servo will not work until the battery voltage drops back to 4.8.
I called Horizon and spoke to two customer service people (one was a manager) and let them know that a lot of people building the new P47 (including me) would probably use a 6 volt pack and even if they did use a 4.8 volt pack the servo they recommend would not work until the "top charge" wore off. I told them they should make everyone aware of this problem or correct it. They didn't seem very interested in my experience.
If you have a JR 791 servo, test it with a freshly charged pack BEFORE you install it!
I will NOT be using them in my P47!!!!
Howard Leipzig

go vertical

My Feedback: (1)

I am useing a JR 10X SPCM ON A 2700MA 6V 791 servoes NO PROBLEMS

asnook

So it looks like it is the Futaba system not being compatable with the JR servo. I wonder if the JR713 would be the same as i just can't find a servo man enough.

DocYates

My Feedback: (102)

I agree, I bet the problem is using the JR servo with the Futaba system and the 6 volt pack. I have had similar problems in the past with mismatch of those two systems. You might want to try them using a JR radio, if you have one around or someone's you could borrow and see if that is the probelm, or if it truly is the voltage.
Good luck. I'm still waiting on mine. Evidently the LHS, who is on the fast track program, did not get the order in in time to Horizon, and now have been placed in the second wave of shipments expected around April 1, supposedly....
Tommy

mobyal

Tommy --
I think you're right on the servo. No problem so far w/ mine -- JR Radio, JR 791s for the retracts and 6V.

Re your LHS -- The wait's hard. But it'll be worth it! Trust me on that.

DocYates

My Feedback: (102)

I have plenty of other projects in the mean time. You guys though are making me sick telling me about good this thing looks....[:@]
Hope they fly as well as they look. At least I will have the benefit of hearing your flight reports...[8D]
Tommy

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

WHOOPEE!!!

The Airplane Truck just dropped off my H9 P-47. I opened the box and took a brief look inside. No damage found upon first glances, but I won't have time to do a full walk-around until I get home tonight.

I'll also weigh everything to be used in the plane and estimate flying weight.

Now if those JR retract servos show up, I'll be ready to go.

Planning to use an Evolution 26 engine and hoping it and the Bisson vertical muffler fits OK.

thevirginian

Dick,
check your ailerons and flaps and perhaps you could report back to all of us how yours look. It seems like the majority here has terribly matching flaps/ailerons. I am talking gaps of up to 1/4" [X(]. The other issue is the flaps are not wide enough to match the ailerons at the trailing edge. We need to address that to Horizon Hobbies.

thevirginian

Has anybody with a gasser install thought about how to use the display prop? Most gassers like the G-26 or the G-38 have a M8 hex bolt that is unusable for this palstic prop. I will come up with a simple solution and post it when I am sure it'll work.

Connery

That gap is necessary for the ailerons to work. If you try and remove the gap the ailerons will bind in the up and down position. I had the same problem on my Top Flite P-47 and had to modify the gap to what you see in the post above by thevirginian so that my ailerons did not bind against the flaps.

WLJ

My Feedback: (108)

Do away with the bolt by replacing it with a threaded rod of the correct length, using a prop nut for flying. Remove flying prop and slide static prop over rod.