Wile E

My Feedback: (2)

That worked fine for me too!

sseward

My Feedback: (1)

Chaz, I made my spacer out of 1/4 aircraft ply. I traced the outline of the back of the engine and used it as a pattern. I cut 4 ea 1/4 pieces and 1 ea. 1/8" piece. I epoxied them all together (note that I drilled the screw holes first to aid in alignment) and then sanded it. This put my engine at about 1/16" sticking out of the cowl. When I got the Keleo exhaust I cut into the ply to recess the mounting tabs, which go behind the engine. My engine is currently off of the plane or I'd take a picture for you. I'm going to run in the engine this weekend and hopefully mount it back on the plane to see how it works with the Keleo exhaust.

BTW...the reason I went the plywood route is that I wanted something solid behind this engine due to the rotational forces it creates. Others have used standoffs with good results, but I like things solid! One advantage of the standoffs is that they allow airflow behind the engine. but If that becomes a problem I'll modify my ply mount.

Steve

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Read the thread and you won't have to speculate about whether or not Manfred and I have the scale exhaust. I've personally not measured the quantity of this so-called slime and I really don't have any idea what you would consider too much or too little. Logic dictates that without the exhaust routed well away from the airplane, you're going to get some residue on it... scale or otherwise. What else do you want to know? Sounds to me like you would be a lot happier going electric and making your own engine noises - just purse your lips and blow - ... but do be careful you might inadvertently slime your transmitter. Good luck and happy flying. I gotta go to the Winn~Dixie... they're having a sale on Windex.

Bauer66

Hey Thar...Pik me up a quart or twoooooooooooooooo of that thar winndix While your at the sale.

Received My keleo Exhaust today Gonna need it.
Damn Nice Exhaust system.

Semper Fi

thevirginian

Hello, WileE and splais;
Did you guys install a remote kill switch for our gasser? If yes, what type did you choose. I hope it's not that expensive optical switch. I want to install a simple battery switch and hook it up with a push rod to a serve. I' ve done that in my Ultima and it works great. Problem is space. I need
to install the ignition battery way up front but the switch should be located next to the other servos. I know, a simple servo extension would do the trick. But I look for a better way. If you guys have a good installation that is simple and works great, please could you share it? Thanks

splais

My Feedback: (25)

Since I have a choke servo I have two ways to kill my engine remotely. (1) Throttle cut from the radio; and (2) close the choke from the radio; both work instantly. You don't need anything fancy.

thevirginian

Hey, splais,
I am with you. I am for the "KISS" method as well. Thing is, though, that you need a separate kill switch that is indepentend from the throttle control and works by shutting off the ignition remotely.

splais

My Feedback: (25)

I cqan't help you if you are talking about a local rule of some kind. The choke is independent of the throttle and kills the engine instantly.

There is also a relatively simple (read that cheap) opto-isolator E-switch ignition kill by Jomar http://www.emsjomar.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=6 That costs $39.

Wile E

My Feedback: (2)

IMAA only requires: 1) a manual kill switch for the ignition and 2) a method of shutting off the engine from the transmitter. The easiest second method is to shut off the throttle plate. If you are using an idle stop screw, then you will need another radio operated switch for the ignition.

hookemut

My Feedback: (3)

Thought that I would add some comments to the topic of requisite kill switches.
Here are the rules per the IMAA organization; I believe that AMA has the same rules :

"SECTION 5.0: EMERGENCY ENGINE SHUT OFF (Kill Switch)
5.1 Magneto spark ignition engines must have a coil-grounding switch on the aircraft to stop the engine. This will also prevent
accidental starting of the engine. This switch shall be readily available to both pilot and helper. This switch is to be operated
manually and without the use of the Radio System.
5.2 Engines with battery powered ignition systems must have a switch to turn off the power from the battery pack to disable the
engine from firing. This will also prevent accidental starting of the engine. This switch shall be readily available to both pilot and
helper. This switch shall be operated manually and without the use of the Radio System.
5.3 There must also be a means to stop the engine from the transmitter. The most common method is to close the carburetor
throat completely using throttle trim, however other methods are acceptable. This requirement applies to all glow/gas ignition
engines regardless of size."

Points to note: even tho one may not belong to the IMAA, surely you belong to the AMA. These kill switch requirements are to be checked by the club/field at which the model is to be flown, and are required for very good reasons.
Hope that this will help clarify what should be done. Google will lead one to the various safety and flight rules for IMAA/AMA.
Jim

splais

My Feedback: (25)

And to amplify, I have had a throttle come loose in flight. the servo actuated choke kept me from having to fly in cirlces for 30 minutes, or having something worse happen.

Well an update on impossible things the Hawk can or cannot do. It CANNOT fly in a 25-30 knot headwind with a Roto 25cc gas engine - ask me how I know We had our annual airshow this weekend. the weather was also terrible. a 25-30 knot gusting quartering wind.. Well I had to fly [>:] the Hawk lifted off and went no place. All I could do was climb slowly and keep turning downwind. With all that wind and those two big wings she just couldn't make any headway. Trying to land the wind was kicking her up and down about 3 feet. she ended up on her back AGAIN, with a busted vetical stab, AGAIN. but no big deal, she will be back on her feet in a couple of days[>:] Got to love the Hawk.

thevirginian

Hey, splais, sorry about your little mishap.
One more word about the kill switch topic: I know all the rules and requirements. That's not the issue. I finally ended up installing the kill switch for the electronic ignition. But it's not remote controlled. It's only manual. In addition to that I also have my "throttle cut" feature activated. That serves as a remote kill switch, sort of. The reason I wanted an independent remote kill switch is that in case of an emergency I can kill the engine midair remotely. I had a case where my motor came loose in flight and my throttle cut wouldn't work. That's why I'd like a remote kill switch.

sedrick

For you guys who are already flying the Hawk are there any tricks or tips for easing the assembly of the plane at the field?

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

I would also like to hear about any tips and tricks for easy field assembly. I have a Super Stearman that I leave assembled, it will just fit in my van. I know I will drop a few of those 4-40 nuts in the grass.

codimasta

My Feedback: (89)

Put a flat washer and a lock washer...and for added insurance put locktite (blue) on the threads....Check you props for proper balance...then enjoy.Great flying plane.

Larry
AMA 11269

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

I drive a pickup and just haul the Hawk to the field fully assembled

Wile E

My Feedback: (2)

Here are some more photos. The first shows the firewall mounting for the fuel filler and the electronic ignition kill switch/charge socket. The black DUBRO charge switch fitting sticks up through the black section on top of the cowling and is easy to get at but unobtrusive. The next two photos show the float mounting brackets in progress for the KMP 80" Beaver floats.

laryboy

My Feedback: (2)

thanks for the tip !

hookemut

My Feedback: (3)

Hi,
Well, a big day for me-I ran theFPE 1.3 all-up mounted in my Hawk. Made no attempt to fly-wind high and gusty. Did complete engine on/off range checks, all clean. Some results:
The engine installation in the Hawk is very satisfactory. The installation has the carb face very close to the cowl opening (which I added).
Engine started easily, ran steady with very little vibration. Quick on throttle response.
The FPE 1.3 ran on Amsoil/gasoline mix, swinging a Zinger 17X5 prop. Reached 6800 uncowled; 6400 cowled, showing considerable need for providing unobstructed air flow. Engine picked up 400RPM during the single tank run. Must run several more tanks thru the engine.
Engine a bit hot with cowl on-believe that additional front opening is required.
Next actions:
Mount a velocity stack. and probably a lead-out for the carb atmosphere opening.
Try an APC 16X8 prop.
Present model at local Mall show
FLY!!

mobyal

Really a nice-looking installation.

thevirginian

Hi, hookemut;
I am glad somebody else, beside me, finally tested the FPE 1.3 in the Hawk. I ran mine last sunday inmy backyard. Also too windy to fly. I ran a complete tank thru and had the Hi-end set on the rich side. I am using Pennsoil 2 stroke for aircooled engines 25:1 to break in the motor. Later on I am going to switch to Amsoil as well.
Here are my observations: Once primed the FPE 1.3 starts very easily. Couple flips, that's all it takes. Fastest starting motor I owned.
Have a Master Airscrew Classic 16x8 in front and turned 7900 after half a tank. Not bad.
Noticed that finger priming is required unless you want to spend half a day flipping the prop. I noticed, hookemut, that you already cut a hole in the side of the cowl. I guess that's a must[&o]. Necessary also for better breathing.
Transition is very good but not too quick. Guess witha faster servo it would improve.
Without cowl motor is cooled by airflow sufficiently. I even could touch it on the cylinder without getting burned. After putting the cowl on things changed. There is absolutely not enough adequate airflow provided. That little square opening is not enough and the motor will quickly overheat.
So, I decided to cut the square opening much bigger. Probably 2.5x 2" or close to that.
Other than that this motor is a nice little gasser that should pull this bird up into the sky with enough thrust.
Once I made my mods to the cowl I will test it on the ground again before a maiden is even considered. I will keeep you guys posted.

chaz1940

Hookemut,
That's a great looking installation, good job. I am also interested in the the stand your Hawk is resting on. Is there anyway to get the plans so I could make some for our club?

hookemut

My Feedback: (3)

Thank you for your nice comments-I will ask the club officers wrt the plans for the neat starting stands and will get back with you, ok?

hookemut

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for your thoughts wrt more cooling air-I will follow your planned enlargement of the front hole. WRT the carb air inlet-I will purchase a velocity stack(Tower, Great Planes) and trim it about 1/8" from the outer surface of the cowling, just leaving a lip. That will ensure clear air into the carb, next will be what the atmospheric vent sees.I'll bet we will need to solder a tube to the carb cover, centered over the vent. Then to the tube, a section of fuel tubing located wherever the engine likes it. Been here before, it is the curse of fully cowled gas engines.

Skinny Bob

My Feedback: (12)

hookemut, ditto, nice job. I to would like to see the plans for that stand. Bob