P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
ORIGINAL: mobyal
OK guys, thanks much for the info. Confirms earlier posts, I think. I think I'll just join the bottom wing halves as supplied in the kit and see what happens!
Al
OK guys, thanks much for the info. Confirms earlier posts, I think. I think I'll just join the bottom wing halves as supplied in the kit and see what happens!
Al
#602
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Chaz, I made my spacer out of 1/4 aircraft ply. I traced the outline of the back of the engine and used it as a pattern. I cut 4 ea 1/4 pieces and 1 ea. 1/8" piece. I epoxied them all together (note that I drilled the screw holes first to aid in alignment) and then sanded it. This put my engine at about 1/16" sticking out of the cowl. When I got the Keleo exhaust I cut into the ply to recess the mounting tabs, which go behind the engine. My engine is currently off of the plane or I'd take a picture for you. I'm going to run in the engine this weekend and hopefully mount it back on the plane to see how it works with the Keleo exhaust.
BTW...the reason I went the plywood route is that I wanted something solid behind this engine due to the rotational forces it creates. Others have used standoffs with good results, but I like things solid! One advantage of the standoffs is that they allow airflow behind the engine. but If that becomes a problem I'll modify my ply mount.
Steve
BTW...the reason I went the plywood route is that I wanted something solid behind this engine due to the rotational forces it creates. Others have used standoffs with good results, but I like things solid! One advantage of the standoffs is that they allow airflow behind the engine. but If that becomes a problem I'll modify my ply mount.
Steve
ORIGINAL: chaz1940
I'm using the RCV120-SP in my Hawk and would like to know has anyone built 1 1/4" stand offs for this engine and what was used to achieve this distance.
I'm using the RCV120-SP in my Hawk and would like to know has anyone built 1 1/4" stand offs for this engine and what was used to achieve this distance.
#603
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
ORIGINAL: GerKonig
OK, Manfred and GaGeBees both seem to have the scale exhaust. Keolo posted in this forum 2 different mufflers that would look good, one is the scale and the other is the pitts that would fit great also. I will be using a Saito 150, so I will have the choice of using either Keolo's exhausts. My question apparently will go unanswered, and believe me you, it is your right to answer or not a question in the forum. The question is not how to clean the oily residue, crappy slime (scale like for Manfred), or whatever you want to call it. My question obviously will go unanswered, thank you for your sneer, useless response gentleman.
OK, Manfred and GaGeBees both seem to have the scale exhaust. Keolo posted in this forum 2 different mufflers that would look good, one is the scale and the other is the pitts that would fit great also. I will be using a Saito 150, so I will have the choice of using either Keolo's exhausts. My question apparently will go unanswered, and believe me you, it is your right to answer or not a question in the forum. The question is not how to clean the oily residue, crappy slime (scale like for Manfred), or whatever you want to call it. My question obviously will go unanswered, thank you for your sneer, useless response gentleman.
#604
RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Hey Thar...Pik me up a quart or twoooooooooooooooo of that thar winndix While your at the sale.
Received My keleo Exhaust today Gonna need it.
Damn Nice Exhaust system.
Semper Fi
Received My keleo Exhaust today Gonna need it.
Damn Nice Exhaust system.
Semper Fi
#605
RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Hello, WileE and splais;
Did you guys install a remote kill switch for our gasser? If yes, what type did you choose. I hope it's not that expensive optical switch. I want to install a simple battery switch and hook it up with a push rod to a serve. I' ve done that in my Ultima and it works great. Problem is space. I need
to install the ignition battery way up front but the switch should be located next to the other servos. I know, a simple servo extension would do the trick. But I look for a better way. If you guys have a good installation that is simple and works great, please could you share it? Thanks
Did you guys install a remote kill switch for our gasser? If yes, what type did you choose. I hope it's not that expensive optical switch. I want to install a simple battery switch and hook it up with a push rod to a serve. I' ve done that in my Ultima and it works great. Problem is space. I need
to install the ignition battery way up front but the switch should be located next to the other servos. I know, a simple servo extension would do the trick. But I look for a better way. If you guys have a good installation that is simple and works great, please could you share it? Thanks
#607
RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Hey, splais,
I am with you. I am for the "KISS" method as well. Thing is, though, that you need a separate kill switch that is indepentend from the throttle control and works by shutting off the ignition remotely.
I am with you. I am for the "KISS" method as well. Thing is, though, that you need a separate kill switch that is indepentend from the throttle control and works by shutting off the ignition remotely.
#608
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
I cqan't help you if you are talking about a local rule of some kind. The choke is independent of the throttle and kills the engine instantly.
There is also a relatively simple (read that cheap) opto-isolator E-switch ignition kill by Jomar http://www.emsjomar.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=6 That costs $39.
There is also a relatively simple (read that cheap) opto-isolator E-switch ignition kill by Jomar http://www.emsjomar.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=6 That costs $39.
#609
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
ORIGINAL: thevirginian
Hello, WileE and splais;
Did you guys install a remote kill switch for our gasser? If yes, what type did you choose. I hope it's not that expensive optical switch. I want to install a simple battery switch and hook it up with a push rod to a serve. I' ve done that in my Ultima and it works great. Problem is space. I need
to install the ignition battery way up front but the switch should be located next to the other servos. I know, a simple servo extension would do the trick. But I look for a better way. If you guys have a good installation that is simple and works great, please could you share it? Thanks
Hello, WileE and splais;
Did you guys install a remote kill switch for our gasser? If yes, what type did you choose. I hope it's not that expensive optical switch. I want to install a simple battery switch and hook it up with a push rod to a serve. I' ve done that in my Ultima and it works great. Problem is space. I need
to install the ignition battery way up front but the switch should be located next to the other servos. I know, a simple servo extension would do the trick. But I look for a better way. If you guys have a good installation that is simple and works great, please could you share it? Thanks
#610
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Thought that I would add some comments to the topic of requisite kill switches.
Here are the rules per the IMAA organization; I believe that AMA has the same rules :
"SECTION 5.0: EMERGENCY ENGINE SHUT OFF (Kill Switch)
5.1 Magneto spark ignition engines must have a coil-grounding switch on the aircraft to stop the engine. This will also prevent
accidental starting of the engine. This switch shall be readily available to both pilot and helper. This switch is to be operated
manually and without the use of the Radio System.
5.2 Engines with battery powered ignition systems must have a switch to turn off the power from the battery pack to disable the
engine from firing. This will also prevent accidental starting of the engine. This switch shall be readily available to both pilot and
helper. This switch shall be operated manually and without the use of the Radio System.
5.3 There must also be a means to stop the engine from the transmitter. The most common method is to close the carburetor
throat completely using throttle trim, however other methods are acceptable. This requirement applies to all glow/gas ignition
engines regardless of size."
Points to note: even tho one may not belong to the IMAA, surely you belong to the AMA. These kill switch requirements are to be checked by the club/field at which the model is to be flown, and are required for very good reasons.
Hope that this will help clarify what should be done. Google will lead one to the various safety and flight rules for IMAA/AMA.
Jim
Here are the rules per the IMAA organization; I believe that AMA has the same rules :
"SECTION 5.0: EMERGENCY ENGINE SHUT OFF (Kill Switch)
5.1 Magneto spark ignition engines must have a coil-grounding switch on the aircraft to stop the engine. This will also prevent
accidental starting of the engine. This switch shall be readily available to both pilot and helper. This switch is to be operated
manually and without the use of the Radio System.
5.2 Engines with battery powered ignition systems must have a switch to turn off the power from the battery pack to disable the
engine from firing. This will also prevent accidental starting of the engine. This switch shall be readily available to both pilot and
helper. This switch shall be operated manually and without the use of the Radio System.
5.3 There must also be a means to stop the engine from the transmitter. The most common method is to close the carburetor
throat completely using throttle trim, however other methods are acceptable. This requirement applies to all glow/gas ignition
engines regardless of size."
Points to note: even tho one may not belong to the IMAA, surely you belong to the AMA. These kill switch requirements are to be checked by the club/field at which the model is to be flown, and are required for very good reasons.
Hope that this will help clarify what should be done. Google will lead one to the various safety and flight rules for IMAA/AMA.
Jim
#611
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
And to amplify, I have had a throttle come loose in flight. the servo actuated choke kept me from having to fly in cirlces for 30 minutes, or having something worse happen.
Well an update on impossible things the Hawk can or cannot do. It CANNOT fly in a 25-30 knot headwind with a Roto 25cc gas engine - ask me how I know We had our annual airshow this weekend. the weather was also terrible. a 25-30 knot gusting quartering wind.. Well I had to fly [>:] the Hawk lifted off and went no place. All I could do was climb slowly and keep turning downwind. With all that wind and those two big wings she just couldn't make any headway. Trying to land the wind was kicking her up and down about 3 feet. she ended up on her back AGAIN, with a busted vetical stab, AGAIN. but no big deal, she will be back on her feet in a couple of days[>:] Got to love the Hawk.
Well an update on impossible things the Hawk can or cannot do. It CANNOT fly in a 25-30 knot headwind with a Roto 25cc gas engine - ask me how I know We had our annual airshow this weekend. the weather was also terrible. a 25-30 knot gusting quartering wind.. Well I had to fly [>:] the Hawk lifted off and went no place. All I could do was climb slowly and keep turning downwind. With all that wind and those two big wings she just couldn't make any headway. Trying to land the wind was kicking her up and down about 3 feet. she ended up on her back AGAIN, with a busted vetical stab, AGAIN. but no big deal, she will be back on her feet in a couple of days[>:] Got to love the Hawk.
#612
RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Hey, splais, sorry about your little mishap.
One more word about the kill switch topic: I know all the rules and requirements. That's not the issue. I finally ended up installing the kill switch for the electronic ignition. But it's not remote controlled. It's only manual. In addition to that I also have my "throttle cut" feature activated. That serves as a remote kill switch, sort of. The reason I wanted an independent remote kill switch is that in case of an emergency I can kill the engine midair remotely. I had a case where my motor came loose in flight and my throttle cut wouldn't work. That's why I'd like a remote kill switch.
One more word about the kill switch topic: I know all the rules and requirements. That's not the issue. I finally ended up installing the kill switch for the electronic ignition. But it's not remote controlled. It's only manual. In addition to that I also have my "throttle cut" feature activated. That serves as a remote kill switch, sort of. The reason I wanted an independent remote kill switch is that in case of an emergency I can kill the engine midair remotely. I had a case where my motor came loose in flight and my throttle cut wouldn't work. That's why I'd like a remote kill switch.
#614
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
I would also like to hear about any tips and tricks for easy field assembly. I have a Super Stearman that I leave assembled, it will just fit in my van. I know I will drop a few of those 4-40 nuts in the grass.
ORIGINAL: sedrick
For you guys who are already flying the Hawk are there any tricks or tips for easing the assembly of the plane at the field?
For you guys who are already flying the Hawk are there any tricks or tips for easing the assembly of the plane at the field?
#615
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Put a flat washer and a lock washer...and for added insurance put locktite (blue) on the threads....Check you props for proper balance...then enjoy.Great flying plane.
Larry
AMA 11269
Larry
AMA 11269
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
ORIGINAL: Skinny Bob
I would also like to hear about any tips and tricks for easy field assembly. I have a Super Stearman that I leave assembled, it will just fit in my van. I know I will drop a few of those 4-40 nuts in the grass.
I would also like to hear about any tips and tricks for easy field assembly. I have a Super Stearman that I leave assembled, it will just fit in my van. I know I will drop a few of those 4-40 nuts in the grass.
ORIGINAL: sedrick
For you guys who are already flying the Hawk are there any tricks or tips for easing the assembly of the plane at the field?
For you guys who are already flying the Hawk are there any tricks or tips for easing the assembly of the plane at the field?
#617
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Here are some more photos. The first shows the firewall mounting for the fuel filler and the electronic ignition kill switch/charge socket. The black DUBRO charge switch fitting sticks up through the black section on top of the cowling and is easy to get at but unobtrusive. The next two photos show the float mounting brackets in progress for the KMP 80" Beaver floats.
#619
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Hi,
Well, a big day for me-I ran theFPE 1.3 all-up mounted in my Hawk. Made no attempt to fly-wind high and gusty. Did complete engine on/off range checks, all clean. Some results:
The engine installation in the Hawk is very satisfactory. The installation has the carb face very close to the cowl opening (which I added).
Engine started easily, ran steady with very little vibration. Quick on throttle response.
The FPE 1.3 ran on Amsoil/gasoline mix, swinging a Zinger 17X5 prop. Reached 6800 uncowled; 6400 cowled, showing considerable need for providing unobstructed air flow. Engine picked up 400RPM during the single tank run. Must run several more tanks thru the engine.
Engine a bit hot with cowl on-believe that additional front opening is required.
Next actions:
Mount a velocity stack. and probably a lead-out for the carb atmosphere opening.
Try an APC 16X8 prop.
Present model at local Mall show
FLY!!
Well, a big day for me-I ran theFPE 1.3 all-up mounted in my Hawk. Made no attempt to fly-wind high and gusty. Did complete engine on/off range checks, all clean. Some results:
The engine installation in the Hawk is very satisfactory. The installation has the carb face very close to the cowl opening (which I added).
Engine started easily, ran steady with very little vibration. Quick on throttle response.
The FPE 1.3 ran on Amsoil/gasoline mix, swinging a Zinger 17X5 prop. Reached 6800 uncowled; 6400 cowled, showing considerable need for providing unobstructed air flow. Engine picked up 400RPM during the single tank run. Must run several more tanks thru the engine.
Engine a bit hot with cowl on-believe that additional front opening is required.
Next actions:
Mount a velocity stack. and probably a lead-out for the carb atmosphere opening.
Try an APC 16X8 prop.
Present model at local Mall show
FLY!!
#621
RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Hi, hookemut;
I am glad somebody else, beside me, finally tested the FPE 1.3 in the Hawk. I ran mine last sunday inmy backyard. Also too windy to fly. I ran a complete tank thru and had the Hi-end set on the rich side. I am using Pennsoil 2 stroke for aircooled engines 25:1 to break in the motor. Later on I am going to switch to Amsoil as well.
Here are my observations: Once primed the FPE 1.3 starts very easily. Couple flips, that's all it takes. Fastest starting motor I owned.
Have a Master Airscrew Classic 16x8 in front and turned 7900 after half a tank. Not bad.
Noticed that finger priming is required unless you want to spend half a day flipping the prop. I noticed, hookemut, that you already cut a hole in the side of the cowl. I guess that's a must[&o]. Necessary also for better breathing.
Transition is very good but not too quick. Guess witha faster servo it would improve.
Without cowl motor is cooled by airflow sufficiently. I even could touch it on the cylinder without getting burned. After putting the cowl on things changed. There is absolutely not enough adequate airflow provided. That little square opening is not enough and the motor will quickly overheat.
So, I decided to cut the square opening much bigger. Probably 2.5x 2" or close to that.
Other than that this motor is a nice little gasser that should pull this bird up into the sky with enough thrust.
Once I made my mods to the cowl I will test it on the ground again before a maiden is even considered. I will keeep you guys posted.
I am glad somebody else, beside me, finally tested the FPE 1.3 in the Hawk. I ran mine last sunday inmy backyard. Also too windy to fly. I ran a complete tank thru and had the Hi-end set on the rich side. I am using Pennsoil 2 stroke for aircooled engines 25:1 to break in the motor. Later on I am going to switch to Amsoil as well.
Here are my observations: Once primed the FPE 1.3 starts very easily. Couple flips, that's all it takes. Fastest starting motor I owned.
Have a Master Airscrew Classic 16x8 in front and turned 7900 after half a tank. Not bad.
Noticed that finger priming is required unless you want to spend half a day flipping the prop. I noticed, hookemut, that you already cut a hole in the side of the cowl. I guess that's a must[&o]. Necessary also for better breathing.
Transition is very good but not too quick. Guess witha faster servo it would improve.
Without cowl motor is cooled by airflow sufficiently. I even could touch it on the cylinder without getting burned. After putting the cowl on things changed. There is absolutely not enough adequate airflow provided. That little square opening is not enough and the motor will quickly overheat.
So, I decided to cut the square opening much bigger. Probably 2.5x 2" or close to that.
Other than that this motor is a nice little gasser that should pull this bird up into the sky with enough thrust.
Once I made my mods to the cowl I will test it on the ground again before a maiden is even considered. I will keeep you guys posted.
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
Hookemut,
That's a great looking installation, good job. I am also interested in the the stand your Hawk is resting on. Is there anyway to get the plans so I could make some for our club?
That's a great looking installation, good job. I am also interested in the the stand your Hawk is resting on. Is there anyway to get the plans so I could make some for our club?
#623
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
ORIGINAL: chaz1940
Hookemut,
That's a great looking installation, good job. I am also interested in the the stand your Hawk is resting on. Is there anyway to get the plans so I could make some for our club?
Hookemut,
That's a great looking installation, good job. I am also interested in the the stand your Hawk is resting on. Is there anyway to get the plans so I could make some for our club?
#624
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
ORIGINAL: thevirginian
Hi, hookemut;
I am glad somebody else, beside me, finally tested the FPE 1.3 in the Hawk.........I noticed, hookemut, that you already cut a hole in the side of the cowl. I guess that's a must. Necessary also for better breathing.
.........I decided to cut the square opening much bigger. Probably 2.5x 2" or close to that.
Hi, hookemut;
I am glad somebody else, beside me, finally tested the FPE 1.3 in the Hawk.........I noticed, hookemut, that you already cut a hole in the side of the cowl. I guess that's a must. Necessary also for better breathing.
.........I decided to cut the square opening much bigger. Probably 2.5x 2" or close to that.
#625
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RE: P-6E Curtis hawk (build thread)
hookemut, ditto, nice job. I to would like to see the plans for that stand. Bob
ORIGINAL: hookemut
Thank you for your nice comments-I will ask the club officers wrt the plans for the neat starting stands and will get back with you, ok?
ORIGINAL: chaz1940
Hookemut,
That's a great looking installation, good job. I am also interested in the the stand your Hawk is resting on. Is there anyway to get the plans so I could make some for our club?
Hookemut,
That's a great looking installation, good job. I am also interested in the the stand your Hawk is resting on. Is there anyway to get the plans so I could make some for our club?