dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

H9 is a an ARF
Topflite is a KIT

Most Kits I find are more closer to Scale, ARF'S not as much; however, if you are only an ARF Builder than the choices are limited.

da Rock

After you've been in it awhile, you'll see that there are never any true scale ARFs. And might see the humor in the discussion as to what isn't true scale on any of the ARFs that are models of full scale aeroplanes. It's sort of an odd idea actually, that it'd matter much which one is truer than the other when a scale nut would take an hour to list all the details that are "wrong" with 'em both. But it does to most.

So far, nobody has mis-identified mine as being something else. And she flies nice, really nice. You know, I still haven't gotten the gear doors on mine yet. Shame on me. Think I'll go do just that................ Ooops, still need to put the scratch built exhaust pipes on too. Now, you want to mention something that looks ugly, the vacu-formed THINGS they want you to glue on the cowl where the pipes are supposed to come out are........... nah, enough of this.

Good flyin' to you all...............

opjose

What? You didn't opt for the Kaleo Exhausts?

What's up with that?

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

You know those Keleo exhaust are nice, but if you are using a Glow engine, I've been told, that you can expect that Exhaust Oil slime all over your plane.

da Rock

As said in the same post: I happen to have a P40 that's been in need of a good set of pipes for awhile now. I've muddled over the problem for some time and when I got to the same point on the Spitfire, having some gawdawful vacu-formed geegaws provided that look like junk, I decided it was time to solve the problem. So I've been trying different things to see how they looked. Found some PlastiStruct tubing that can be worked when heated and been making different configurations.

It seems those pipes on Spitfires are really, really diverse. I'd almost bet they made a different configuration for each plane as it came off the line. Looking at old pictures, every one seems to be another layout. But now I got something that will at least look halfway realistic.

Funny people, us modelers............ I want halfway real looking pipes, yet have opted for hanging the stock muffler out on the side.......... don't make good sense, now does it...............

hyflyer9

Hi da rock.

I see you have a three blade prop on your spit.
I am using a 14x8 apc with my Saito 100 it fly,s very well and lots of power.
How does your spit handle and fly with the three blade . I have been thinking of switching to a three blade

da Rock

Yeah, that's a 3-blader all right. Looks more scale-like, don'tcha think.

I use 3-bladers on more than half my fleet. The Corsair and P-47 like 'em just like the Spit does. The OS91 fits where the OS61 fits, so I run the bigger one just to swing as large a diameter as possible. They look so much better on the ground. And they do even better in the air. With the extra horsepower of the 91-2cycle their high speed passes are nice, really nice.

They all work with the Master Airscrew 3-blader. The extra blade area seems to help in the heat of summer. Don't remember the rpm, but that's not too important as flight testing shows whatever it gets in the air is a gracious plenty. They're 14x7(3)s. Work excellent.

da Rock

BTW, that same prop works great in the summer on a Sukhoi31 I fly "pattern" with. In the winter it's usually got a 15x6 TF wood 2-blader. Summer it'll usually have the 14x7(3). The warbirds keep the 3-blader on year round.

All 3 warbirds and the Sukhoi31 are pulled around by the OS91FX. I even run uniflow tanks in them all because the warbirds only see "scale like flight" a small part of each flight. The Sukhoi needs it 'cause it's a plane I use to do IMAC maneuvers with. Haven't tried them with the Spit yet. Heck, I STILL don't have the gear doors on that sucker yet.

DirtTorpedo

Ummm.. Slime isn't the word for it!!!!!

after flying on sunday, I'll post a pic of what mine looks like after a couple flights with the 110FZ and the Keleo exhaust......

BUT.. the UNDERSIDE is always clean!!!!!!!!!! (acutally, its not that bad.. the sides get slimey, and the horiz stab.. but.. its no worse that cleaning my jug with a pitts muffler out the bottom)

However..... It's a fair trade off to nail the throttle after a wingover for a strafing run a few feet off the deck and watch the smoke pour out of both sides of the airplane!!!!

If my girlfriend can get manage to get a shot of that, i'll post it too!



Like da rock... I'm a big fan of 3-blade props!

my spitty runs a 14X9 MAS 3-blade with the fz110.... Looks good onthe ground and pulls like a mule in the air... I wish APC would make a three blade in 14x9, their blades look closer to the spits than the MAS.

I run a 13X8 three blade on my jug with the .91 fx.. it SCREAMS.... and a 14X7 three blade on my Yak 54 with a 1.20 two stroke..

the naysayers will tell you that two blade props are more efficient.... and they are.... but 3-bladers have more PULL and LOOK cooler on the ground... which is what I want on my warbirds and 3D planes... (yes a d-model jug had a four blade prop.... but a two blade on it just looks..... well.. stupid!) I use a two blade on my Mayhem 40, only because the 46fx likes a 12.25X3.75 APC on it!

hyflyer9

I do agree I like the three blade props both the look and the performance. and even though apc does not make the size you would like I did some checking and found that graupner makes some very nice three blade props see link below

https://shop.graupner.de/webuerp/ser...RTN=1315.33.25

da Rock

Try any 3blader you can find that even LOOKS like it might work. Ignore the pitch numbers on it. Just try it. Pitch numbers on all model props aren't perfect, and really only relevant for comparing with another prop of the same make that you've already flown on your engine/airframe.

And forget the idea that 3s are "less efficient therefore...." That would be correct IF you compare a 3 to a 2 of the same blade area (and you won't be able to find one) with relatively the same aspect ratio (which affects efficiency far more) or variable pitch. The efficiency deal came about in fullscale when engineers compared blade counts on blade combinations that MATCHED the power input from one specific test engine.

Keep in mind also that any 2 bladed prop is more efficient than the same 2-blade prop with a lower pitch. Do we not use 15x5s because 15x6s are more efficient? Nah, we use whichever one works better. And we'd be better off to simply test any prop that might work, no matter how many blades.

BTW, most Graupner 3-blades have appreciably more area outboard (where it counts) than other brands of the same size.

hyflyer9

I have also found some very nice Xoar 3 blade props they have two different types and mant sizes to choose from it,s like you said da rock I will just have to choose one and try it thanks for the info guys. http://www.xoarintl.com/props/model-airplane/PJI.html
good flying.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

On my Spitfire, I sprayed Lustre Kote Flat Clear, on the entire Plane; the results are great; as is typical for any heat shrink film coverings, wrinkles will develop from time to time; what would be the best way to remove these wrinkles without disturbing the Flat Finish?

Thanks.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I've just noticed the distance between the tank centerline and the carb - it's quite a bit. Has anyone had an issue with this? I was running a Magnum 91 but it really sagged on me in flight. I switched that to a OS 91FX, but haven't flown that engine yet. Tomorrow will tell. I wanted to use the Magnum because it was broken in. The OS is relatively new.

Bob

da Rock

The 91 will break in quite well with the procedure in the manual. I've got a number of them working now and all flew after a one tank breakin by the book.

I can tell you that moving the tank is fairly easy and it works great after the move. I noticed the tank centerline deal as I was assembling the sucker and fixed it then. I set the tank up with 2 clunks in case the engine needed uniflow. The hoses were done for a normal feed however as uniflow sometimes siphons. It flies great with the normal feed. I'm considering redoing the hoses on the Corsair and P47 for normal feed as those two both siphon if I don't hemostat a line. They have 91FXs and I figure if the Spit's 91FX draws good, they will too. Those two flew to begin with with the uniflow hoses and that's all they've seen. Excellent engine runs, but the hemostat deal sucks.

jdhughen

My Feedback: (1)

I did also. I use a heat gun gently. Works fine. You obviously Can't use the iron.

Any one out there using a better replacement for the tail wheel gear??

Mine gives me terrible problems ground handleing on take off. It's so flimsy. Leaning on the rudder for take off, when the tail lifts off the ground there is a big change in direction and I have to be very quick to compensate.

Joel

hyflyer9

I use the Sulivan Tail wheel set up it works very well see link below . well that is until today had a radio fail a complete loss about a few houndred pieces left is all. and the same thing happened to another member yesterday in the same manner both on 72 mhz a total loss of signal couldn,t even cut the throttle .

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for that insight... I didn't think I'd be able to move the tank, but I'll take a 2nd look now.

I got her up today for her first real flight, and I love it. I can't believe how gentle she is. Then I made a bonehead mistake. I knew that the retracts were a bit sticky (bent wheel strut) but I had to try them out. Hey, they worked OK on the ground, didn't they?? (they're the stock retracts).

Let's just say that that wasn't the best decision I made this week....

Well, to make a long story short, I was able to bring her in with both gear retracted and she skidded in on her belly very nicely (I hadn't installed the scoops yet). Aside from cleaning her up, there was no damage.

A bullet dodged, and a lesson learned....

Bob

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Hey Guys;

Finally Maidened mine today; ground handling was terrible, until the tail lifts, someone else has pointed this out and I have to agree, the stock tail wheel and assemply is way too flimsey and flexes; someone has suggested 'Sullivan' as a replacement, is that just the Tail Wheel or the entire assembly?, a couple of questions, since I have already installed the stock assembly, whats the best way to replace this with another better assembly; and has anyone tried a a different Tail Wheel assembly other than 'Sullivan' and finally what size of tail wheel is everyone using, 1"?

Thanks, Doug.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

Another Question; I am running a OS91 4 Stroke with a 12X8 3 Bladed MAS Prop, top end at 9500rpm; what Engines are others running and Prop sizes and results; Thanks.

chaz42075

Any ideas how to get the gear deeper into the wheel wells to make the doors flush?

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

What you need to do is recess the Landing gear mounting rails; to do this you remove material from the Mounting rails; the problem is, that when you remove material(wood) from the rails, you will weaken them because you made them thinner; so you have to somehow reinforce the Mounting Rails.

0z0

Just iron the surface.

patrnflyr

My Feedback: (7)

We've decided to go with a YS 120 (the old non airchamber plain-jane 120) that is VERY reliable. We got the plane finished and purchased a Keleo Pitts inverted muffler from Central Hobbies. When we received the muffler, there was an entire page included about how the nut comes loose very easily. We tightened it down as much as we dared to being afraid we'd rip it off the engine box if we did it any more. Cowled it up again and got ready for maiden. Started it up, ran great for about 45 seconds, and then, the muffler came loose. Has anybody seen a way to tighten down this specific muffler without damaging the head and tight enough not to come off. I've done searches everywhere and the only thing I've come up with was to use Red Loctite. The instructions say specifically not to use blue loctite or teflon tape. He does mention RTV high temp gasket "goo" but doesn't mention the red loctite. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

John

smithsfallsbirdguy

Hey
I have been flying my spit off and on this the summer and have about 15 flights. I am looking for some feed back on flight characteristics. first of all take off is a breeze,
flight is stable but at half throttle and above it climbs like crazy. I trim it down with 3 or 4 clicks of down elevator and she flys level. by the way I checked to see what this trim looks like on the elevator and it it is noticbly trimmed down. I can live with the trimming down for high speed flight but the problem is landing. I fly an ultra sport 60 and other sport type planes. For landings I tend to set them up to have a reasonable down glide with the power off. I get them lined up with the runway and when I cut the throttle they glide right in with a little power added when needed. The issue with the spit is when I trim it to come in this way when I go to flare I have no more up elevator throw on low rates and end up planting the nose. On high rates it is way to sensative and I land, then take off, then land, then take off, I think you get the point. If I put the trim back to neutral she does not want to come down at all.
Should I be driving her down with stick ? because that sure leaves alot of chance for error
I have just changed the cg, it was level and I moved the battery forward and now it is a bit nose down, I have not test flown with this change, should this help?

Any help would be great