perreback

Looks cool - but I think oil from the exhaust might find its way into that hatch sooner or later (remember, we are talking about the Keleo exhaust here).

nirtza79

Thanks kaloq,
I saw your hatch, it is great, but as perreback asked do you think it will be good with the keleo muffler?

kahloq

Why wouldn't the plane be good with a keleo muffler? It makes for a nicer install.....no fat muffler sticking out somewhere. I have a keleo on a saito 125 in my TF .60 p-51. Sounds better then the stock muffler, however, I've found one of those saito flex exhaust pipes cut down to about 4" sounds deeper and too me, more aggressive.

perreback

No, the plane *is* good with a Keleo muffler - the question is whether a hatch such as the one you're suggesting is "oil tight" or not.

maverick11359

Hi guys, I like the idea of a discete push/pull switch . I've seen it done on a lot of scale birds and it looks neat .I like the Keleo muffler IMHO it brings it closer to true scale and removes one continual problem . I have the Saito 125 as well and its biggest problem has always been the manufacturers muffler comimg loose or even breaking of from the 90 degree knuck attached to the engine . I don't know about installing a hatch IMHO it can create some unneeded problems..e.g extra weight to strengthen around the hatch and subsitute for loss of fuselage strenght , possible exhaust oil waste leaking in side and the aircraft becomes oil socked, also the hatch risk comming off in mid flight .... Great to see the Hangar 9 spit still going strong..

cheers Mav'

jdhughen

My Feedback: (1)

Kahlog,

I did an electric convert on this bird a few years back (page 40 this thread) I have never been able to get a cg to a point anywhere close to what the manual says and it not feel and fly like it's tail heavy (I heard you talking about in in your video). I had to replace the wing a year back cause I bounced it so hard pushing the gear up through the wing, I would be very interested to know where you ending up placing the the CG. I would like to fly this plan a lot more than I do but it's more uncomfortable dealing with it than it is enjoy able. I have asked a couple of times but folks seem to be all over the place with the CG. I was concerned about the weight but your setup is heavier than mine. I need to buy new batts for this thing before this coming season so I think I'll step up a notch. Batts at 1/2 what they were when I built this model.

thanks

Joel Hughen

kahloq

The video I posted had it balanced about 5mm forward of the manual's CG. It flew fine, but still seemed overly responsive. So...I added another 3 oz of lead up front and it now easy as cake to take off, fly, and land. No surprises at all. Id suggest going at least 8mm forward of the manuals CG.

kahloq

It doesn't have to be oil tight as its on the top of the fuse. The keleo exhaust is A) in front of the firewall B) the exhaust would come out the bottom of the nose, not the top where my hatch is and C), the hole for the fuel line tubes from fuel tank to gas/glow motor need only been sealed off with something to prevent any oil residue getting into the interior of the fuse. You'd do that anyway. I use a flat piece of thin foam with a small hole in it for this purpose. Stick the fuel tubes through the hole and place it in front of the fuel tank against the backside of the firewall. Also helps to isolate the tank from vibration butting up against a piece of foam.

maverick11359

G'day kahloq, Sorry to disagree but the Keleo muffler exhausts on both sides of the cowl ( not the bottom), thats why it looks real to scale,hence the original question where do i place the on/off switch on the fuselage . The top of the fuselage will be covered in oil( and definitely the sides). At present the bottom of my Spit fuselage from the rear of the muffler back with my stanard saito muffler is always covered in oil when in use.

kahloq

That is not the type of keleo exhaust I was referring to. On my saito 125, I have a keleo, but not the version that has the "scale" exhaust" stacks. That is was I was talking about. Regarding using the type from keleo that functions in the scale exhaust area, the hatch might have to be made smaller so not as WIDE so the exhaust residue doesn't get to the hatch lines. As I said about mine, there is a piano hinge on one side of the hatch. This would aid in sealing that side. On the other side, a simple rubber lining between hatch and fuse meet would seal that off.

All that being said, if your plane is getting oil and gunk on the top of the nose and on the sides, then maybe a hatch up front wouldnt be a good idea. However, a small hatch for on/off switches fuel fill etc could be done behind the cowl under the nose behind the firewall. You could use a miracle switch with fuel dot and not take up much space and have it hidden really well.

If using a separate battery for onboard glow, then a two switch version with fuel dot would be the ticket

http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items...HDOTBLACK.html

maverick11359

G'day Kahloq , I suppose we should have determined which Keleo muffler nirtza79 was purchasing to go on his new Spit, I assumed it was the scale exhaust keleo stack mufler because i couldn't fathom why any one would replace the original Saito unless you were going for a more scale appearance,,, my ignorance I'm sorry..

So kahloq you must have 2 hangar nine spits, one electric powered and one with the Saito125 upfront.. . What's your verdict doing a comparison flying each.?

kahloq

No....the saito 125 with keleo PITTS style dual tube exhaust is installed in my TF .60 p-51. Same size plane more or less. The P-51 has a 15x8 prop while the electric spitfire has a 16x10. I think they both fly about the same speed, but the spitfire will land a hell of a lot slower and doesn't weigh as much. The TF plane is just heavy for its size. Overbuilt is what Id say about it, but, that can be a good thing.

I do have other spitfires......a kyosho 90 size. It originally had the saito 125 with the keleo muffler setup, right now it has an OS 120, but not hooked up yet.

And finally, I also have a giant scale 89" Spitfire from Hobbyking. This one has a 50cc turnigy gas. Not finished yet though.

McCrazy

Sorry for resurrecting a year old thread but I just bought this plane and a Saito 125 to go with it.

My question is however about the retracts (like 90% of this thread...). I plan on replacing the H9 wire with a stiffer piece but I wonder why everyone seems to be using music wire. I understand it is probably a higher quality and stiffer than the factory wire, but people are saying it still tends to bend. Why has no one tried to use some high carbon steel rods from a home improvement store? They sell rods for welding/fabrication that would surely be more rigid than music wire which has to bend/vibrate in order to make music.

I plan on trying the home improvement wire with the Robart struts unless someone can quantify a reason not to...

Thanks, -McCrazy

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

Music wire is "hardened" therefore stiffer. The hardware store type, unless it's hardened, will likely bend on you. I have over 100 flights on my H9 Spit with the stock landing gear and have never had it to bend. It will flex when you taxi but it has never bent, and I've had some pretty hard landings.

McCrazy

I checked it out yesterday at Lowe's. They sell 3/16" cold rolled steel (harder than hot rolled) for welding/fabrication. Was 3 feet in length for about $2.50. Seemed rather stout as I tried to flex it, but I didn't have a piece of music wire to compare it to.

Musical instruments need to vibrate in order to make music, but in fabrication you generally want rigidity. This makes me think that while music wire may be a higher grade of steel, it is not necessarily better suited to this task as a structural element.

Will test it out when my plane arrives and report back.

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

For the price I would try it, cold rolled steel is pretty tough and much harder than hot rolled steel.

nirtza79

McCrazy,
I think that the wire SHOULD bend a little on landing otherwise on a not so soft landing you will break the gear mount instead of just bending the gear wire. Just my opinion though..

McCrazy

I agree and the steel did have some give to it which would absorb the impact forces. The question is will it also be able to resist permanent bending with the forces applied to it.

nirtza79

Anyway you will love this plane it is great!!!! I have had it for two, going into the third season, great plane!

elmshoot

My Feedback: (6)

Not to snipe here but I have flown of a grass field for many seasons with my Spitty. I have never had an issue with the wire bending. Maybe your landing technique could stand some attention. I generally attempt the slowest tail low touchdown I can, The issue I have is that there is so much slop in the landing gear when landing (rarely) on hard surface the wiggling sloppy gear really makes the plane ground loopy. I should think replacing your H9 supplied gear with the normal Music wire found in hobby shops would be an improvement over the Chinese metal gear who most likely is not tempered correctly for our application. I dont think you will be able to bend a tight radius in Cold or hot rolled steel with out it weaken the metal or it might even break.
Sparky

spitfire66

Does anyone have a set of the stock retracts they would sell? I broke mine up today and they are back ordered. I would sure like to get it back in the air asap!

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

I have a pair that I have modified with Robo Struts, Scale Robarts Wheels/Tires, Gear doors attached; you would have to modify the wheel wells to accomadate the gear, make them deeper. if interested I can send you some pictures

MrDaniel

My Feedback: (1)

I experimented with the stock mechanicals, struts and Robart Air up spring down...wish I'd gone all air or waited for electric, the wing is a pain with retracts extended! Anyway I have a set of stock mechanicals in my gear somewhere, yours for the asking if you get me a prepaid envelope to send them in...I will hunt them up if you contact me.

elmshoot

My Feedback: (6)

I will be posting over on the want adds in a few days.
I have a Keleo Exhaust new never even mounted (Saito 1.00) and a uncut H9 cowl for sale about $175 new but I will send it to you for $120 plus postage.
Also a used wing with retracts, flaps, no servos. Some hangar rash it came off in flight and fluttered to the ground I know what caused this so don't worry about that. $50 plus postage.
I live near Bloomington, Ind (47468) and can drive a reasonable distance to meet if you want the wing as package and shipment might be too much.
Sparky

spitfire66

PM sent MrDaniel