BigGuyJT

I'll post pics tonight after work. Props spin inward at the top.

BigGuyJT

Ok heres a couple of pics taken with my Iphone so quality isnt great. thanks for the ideas Testfly. Someday I might go for the 1/4 scale servo retract mod. For now the robart air systems holds my air for atleast a couple of days with no leaks.

testfly

Mine did as well and then 2 T's failed after takeoff. I had no air to put them back down.

Tip: If it happens. Just Belly it in and don't worry to much if you have a grass strip to land ON.
All I did was knock off the radar dome when I came in with the gear up.

BigGuyJT

We do have a nice little grass strip next to our runway in case that should happen.

lablover

Guys

I need help

Got the stock Eflite motors they recomend..with Castle 75 ice lites.....Looking at hobby king for batts I know I need 4 S 14.8 V 4200 mah What C rating am I looking for? The LHS recommended hyperion but they are 110 bucks each. I figured hobby king I could get more than 2 for 200 bucks

Thoughts?

testfly

I run 5 cells in my setup and at least a 30C rating.

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=8589


The higher the C rating the more you can pull out of the battery at once without hurting the battery.

lablover

thanks testfly

Do you think running them in parallel the best bet whats the benefit?. I get conflicting reports on each way. I still have a ways to go but I like to plan ahead. I did run into an issue with the fake motor fronts...You pretty much have to get rid of most of the plastic to have the motor fit. Did you find this as well.? Please be advised I'm a rookie flyer...Just got my OK from new club flying my p-51 PTS ....This B-25 wont leave the ground till I'm 100% sure I can handle it


SILLY question. I got 4 round pieces of ply that look like what the motors would mount too. But, in the manual I show no use for them I got 2 lefts and 2 rights of the same i.e GP and EP Please tell me these are not to be used anyplace?

you can see them here with the nacelle

http://www.hangar-9.com/Products/Def...ProdID=HAN4455

BTW, your bird is awesome

Joe

BigGuyJT

Joe,
I had the same problem with the dummy radials. For right now I'm not using any. I think I will eventually go with the E-Flite AT-6 radials as the look decent and are cheap. My wife did a great job of painting one up for me. I'm running 5s 4900 20 c rhinos. I'm pulling 54 amps a piece on the bench so they are more than worthy. I don't have them paralled, just one for each of the E-Flite pro 60's and Power 46's.

testfly

The plates are mounting templates. GP = Glow Power EP = Electric Power I used The EP plates to move the motor out. I made stand offs from hardwood (1/2" X 1 1/8" X 2 3/8")
The 80 amp Turnigy ESC mounts on a plywood plate just in front of the muffler pocket in the nacelle. I will post a image soon. And I did not use the dummy engines.

As for your wiring question... It is a crap shoot. I fly a C 130 that I have 4 seperate batteries. On the B-25 I wired both batteries together for 10,000 mah running both ESCs.
The good thing is that both ESCs see the same voltage all the time. The bad thing is that if one motor shorts it COULD take out the other. Could, but not likely. I had it happen to me
and the other ESC ran fine. ALL THE WAY DOWN!!! Lost but not forgotten. In fact I have another B-25 on the bench right now moving things from #1 to #2.
Everything will fly but the motors and ESCs.

NOTE: I fly a 9303 and we have 2 club members that have lost models because of radio issues not to long ago.
So I though I was having radio issues as well. "NOT" I learned that if you have a airplane in the air. CONTROL OR NOT... FLY IT ALL THE WAY TO THE GROUND AND NEVER GIVE UP ON YOUR RADIO.
I knew better but because 2 friends had issues I too thought I had the same problem they did.

B-25 Crash Report

March 14, 2010

Weather:
Clear and Windy 20 to 30 mph gust.

After the candy drop was completed and the runway re-opened. The B-25 took off to complete the cycle on the flight batteries.
The model traveling west (downwind) made a 90 degree turn to the north and just before a planned 90 degree turn to the east
the model seamed to fail to respond to control inputs given.

After many hours of review of the aircraft and a complete test of the radio system (Range check, battery levels, Amp draw of the servos and load testing of the complete system) it has been determined that the crash was a result of "PILOT ERROR".

The pilot (ME) failed to maintain control of the aircraft when traveling north. Just before a planned turn to the east the left motor lost power at the point input was given to turn right.
While "holding in" full input for the right turn was not enough to turn the model, it was enough to keep the model from turning over due to the loss of the left engine and right engine thrust.
When the input to turn right was relaxed, the thrust from the right engine pulled the model left. This resulted in the pilot thinking he had no control when in fact there was never enough
control surface movement given to over come the high wind and right engine thrust from the 70% power setting used during the flight. But, was enough to maintain level flight with a heading slightly to the left.

When I held up the radio to show my spotter I had NO control the right stick was moved in all directions including the one that caused the spin and crash.
When the stick went left it allowed the model to turn into the failed engine which resulted in the right engine thrust spinning the aircraft to the left at which point it dropped behind the tree line with the nose pointing down at a 140 degree angle. When the model started to spin power was cut. At that point there is no recovery so it best not power it into the ground.

Once we got to the model. ( It was standing on the tail leaning on some vines and both 3 blade props were undamaged and clear of the vines. ) I added a little throttle and the right motor started spinning but, nothing from the left motor. I also had control surface movement and was able to lower the gear.
A close look at the props and spinners showed no strike of any kind which made it clear that the left motor had failed in the air.

The model could be repaired. But, due to time issues it was better for me to buy another kit and move everything over to it. I have already moved the right engine (the good one) over to a Skybolt I converted to electric and now with over 20 flights on it. The motor and ESC are doing well.

[I should note that there was a guy about 50' behind me reving up a big gas motor so I was not able to hear my model. And yes, I can hear my model if there is no background noise and I would have heard the engine fail]

When I fly a new model, the first 30 flights or so are done when my plane is the only thing in the air. The main reason being that if your going to have a problem chances are it is going to be within the first few flights.

Sorry for the long post.... Troy

lablover

Testfly

For the life of me I can't picture how you mounted your ESC..Is the plywood plate mounted to the motor standoffs?

Any good 3 blade props work well with the eflite elec motors

lablover

Thanks for the images

Sorry to hear about your bird...I'd be in tears I swear

testfly

No need to be sorry. The H9 is a really nice airplane and I got about 180 flights before the last one. It is also worth the time and $$$ to own another one.
I won't do anything different with the second one. Though I may fly it less when there are loud airplanes getting ready to fly. :-)

lablover

Hey Big guy

Did you say the at6 radials from eflite fit? I'd like to see that painted up one your wife did. I decided to machine down the alum standoffs 1/2" shorter so the motor does not stick out so much. John Redman did the same thing I saw on another post.

Joe

lablover

YUP

The 1/2 makes all the diff in the world. The Prop is not so far away from the cowls now. However, I need new dummy radials cause I cut them for the first try of the motor fit...Darn...Still looks great

BIG PAIN IN THE FANNY ...Do get em cut just right..Thank god for Brother in law machinist

BigGuyJT

Yes sir they fit with a lil bit of trimming to the outer edge.

miklos

My Feedback: (38)

There is a set of Robart retracts for the Hangar 9 B-25 for sale in the Buy and Sell section of RCU, but they don't look exactly like the retracts advertised on Hangar 9's website. The strut look the same, but the retract mechanism doesn't seem to match. Can anyone tell me if these are the correct ones for this plane before I put in a bid for them.

bkrfrmhell

My Feedback: (4)

those are them, is that rust on the oleo?

BigGuyJT

Those are not the same. Look at the mounting brackets. The ones in his pic has holes in thes side plates. The nose gear doesnt have vertical mounts as does the recommed robart set up. Nothing wrong with these subtle differences as long as the still fit.

miklos

My Feedback: (38)

Well, Big Guy, that is my main concern.[]

Charles_e_bates

My Feedback: (90)

Hi:
I also have the Robart retracts in my B-25 and the ones for sale in the photo are NOT the robart retracts for the B-25.

lablover

Quick question for the guys running Elec.

The cables from my ESC for the batt (Castle) are about 6 inches long. They are 10 ga wire. Looks like I will need to make these longer I was thinking of using castle bullet connectors? I assume this is a better idea then making the leads from the batt longer. Looks like I need to go all the way from the Nacelle to the center of the fuse....Any rules on the safe length of the extension I use to go from the esc?

Thanks

testfly

Hi lab,

In the fuselage I have two Male Deans on one end and 2 Female Deans on the other end of a 12ga wire.


In each wing half I solder 12ga wire to the controller and brought it out the end of the wing about 2" and put a Male Deans on the end.


See image.

I have had no issues with this setup.

BigGuyJT

I made an extension with the E-Flite blue bullet connectors on one end that goes to the esc's and deans on the other end for the batts. I havent had any problems either. If your up to it you should really do testfly,s battery mod and put them up front. I took out all the dead wight up front! I did have to add just a lil bit to the tail though. Plus you wont have to flip the plane over anymore!

lablover

Bigguy

I may just do that..I think I still need to extend the esc cables to the batt however right? HEck, I can always cut em My Baby is almost done...wooohooooo

lablover

Hey Testfly

Do you know where one could get the inside canopy image you have in your B-25..Thats a pretty slick idea. I cant seem to find a image however

Joe