Yellow P-47
03-19-2002, 02:18 AM
#26
Re: What About Spring Air Retracts?
Originally posted by k_sonn
Has anyone tried the Spring Air retracts? I have a set that I was going to put into a Top Flite gaint scale P-47. I sold the Top Flite kit and purchased a Yellow P-47. I talked to Spring Air and they said these retracts should work. Does anyone know for sure?
Has anyone tried the Spring Air retracts? I have a set that I was going to put into a Top Flite gaint scale P-47. I sold the Top Flite kit and purchased a Yellow P-47. I talked to Spring Air and they said these retracts should work. Does anyone know for sure?
Chris
03-20-2002, 03:06 AM
#27
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Gene Barton
Thanks guys for all the input.
I have been watching and reading not only the post here but others as well and I have decided to go with Gene Barton.
I have heard nothing but positive comments about GB and from what I understand his service is the way it should be. Quality product & good customer service, what a concept!
Now I need to start a new post for building tips on the Yellow P-47. Apparently they have done some mods to the ailerons. I assume it was to address the flutter problem they had in the past.
(SloMoShun, nice P-51! What kit is it?)
Aron
I have been watching and reading not only the post here but others as well and I have decided to go with Gene Barton.
I have heard nothing but positive comments about GB and from what I understand his service is the way it should be. Quality product & good customer service, what a concept!
Now I need to start a new post for building tips on the Yellow P-47. Apparently they have done some mods to the ailerons. I assume it was to address the flutter problem they had in the past.
(SloMoShun, nice P-51! What kit is it?)
Aron
03-20-2002, 03:21 AM
#28
Re: Gene Barton
Originally posted by AC2
Now I need to start a new post for building tips on the Yellow P-47. Apparently they have done some mods to the ailerons. I assume it was to address the flutter problem they had in the past.
(SloMoShun, nice P-51! What kit is it?)
Now I need to start a new post for building tips on the Yellow P-47. Apparently they have done some mods to the ailerons. I assume it was to address the flutter problem they had in the past.
(SloMoShun, nice P-51! What kit is it?)
www.rsaxton.com
Chris
03-20-2002, 03:45 AM
#29
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Chris,
Where do you guys fly over there in the big sillicone valley? Are you guys going to Fremont or Livermore?
I'm up the road a little bit in Modesto. Love to see ya fly it someday!!
Aron
I'm up the road a little bit in Modesto. Love to see ya fly it someday!!
Aron
03-21-2002, 01:13 AM
#30
Yellow P-47
We fly in Morgan Hill. The name of our club is the SCCMAS.
http://www.sccmas.org
I don't have my mustang anymore, but there are plenty of other warbirds nicer and better that fly on a regular basis.
Chris
http://www.sccmas.org
I don't have my mustang anymore, but there are plenty of other warbirds nicer and better that fly on a regular basis.
Chris
03-21-2002, 04:01 AM
#31
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Yellow P-47
The Yellow P47 instructions have modification details on the mods to make to the wing to prevent the aileron flutter commen to the ones with the fiberglass ailerons. I have an earlier Bert Baker P47, I made the recommended Yellow mods to the wing, but my flying surfaces are built up balsa, not fiberglass. I have not experienced a flutter problem so far. I have read numerous comments on this problem and they all seem to be the fiberglass flying surfaces version. I think if you follow the Yellow mods to the wing, plus the following tips you will have no trouble.
Use plenty of the large Robart hinges (I used six per flying surface) with plenty of material to mount them in.
Change the servo mount from the recommended method to one where the servo is mounted in the wing vs mounted on the cover of the servo bay.
Use heavy duty 1/8" control rods, with connectors that produce zero slop.
Vince
Use plenty of the large Robart hinges (I used six per flying surface) with plenty of material to mount them in.
Change the servo mount from the recommended method to one where the servo is mounted in the wing vs mounted on the cover of the servo bay.
Use heavy duty 1/8" control rods, with connectors that produce zero slop.
Vince
03-21-2002, 09:13 AM
#32
My Feedback: (37)
Balast Aileron
When I built my p47 awhile back, I recalled weighing the ailerons at about 1.5 lbs, they were heavy. If I had to do again, I would have just made them out of balsa... I could have saved another 1.5 on the nose... Mine resulted in two flutter incident... just very lucky to get it back both times... its no fun....
My solution was to epoxy a couple of 1/4 scale servos on the wing for the ailerons... Which of course added more weight. Currently at 24lbs.
Anyways its a great flying plane... but my landings appears to be crashes... resulting in gear mount failure.
fw190
My solution was to epoxy a couple of 1/4 scale servos on the wing for the ailerons... Which of course added more weight. Currently at 24lbs.
Anyways its a great flying plane... but my landings appears to be crashes... resulting in gear mount failure.
fw190
03-22-2002, 03:42 PM
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Vince, FW190,
Thanks for the advice.
I thought the control surfaces were kinda heavy but I am going to keep em as is. The adendum suggest using 90oz servos minimum on flaps and ailerons which I will use 111oz.
I will also put more hinges as suggested and plan on using heavy duty control horns/rods.
Thie wing calls for three different sizes of cloth. I am assuming these will all end up stacked (layered) upon each other? Otherwise you would have edges where the glass transitions to the next size. Do you guys use epoxy here or resin? The instructions say that resin does not cure over some epoxies so if you can give any help in this area I would much apreciate it.
The other area of concern is the resin and the stabilit glue. They say to use stabilit glue and then reinforce area with glass and resin. Well, I also heard that resin and glass does not add strength but is only for allowing a surface for paint.
As you can tell I am pretty unfamiliar with working with glass kits and glassing the wing for paint. I have built numerous all balsa kits with monokote covering so this is a new area for me.
Gotta learn someday so it might as well be now. I'm gonna have an American Eagle P-40 built for me later this year but this Yellow kit has almost everything done so I figure it would be a great kit for learning. Looks much easier than the Byrons!
AC
I thought the control surfaces were kinda heavy but I am going to keep em as is. The adendum suggest using 90oz servos minimum on flaps and ailerons which I will use 111oz.
I will also put more hinges as suggested and plan on using heavy duty control horns/rods.
Thie wing calls for three different sizes of cloth. I am assuming these will all end up stacked (layered) upon each other? Otherwise you would have edges where the glass transitions to the next size. Do you guys use epoxy here or resin? The instructions say that resin does not cure over some epoxies so if you can give any help in this area I would much apreciate it.
The other area of concern is the resin and the stabilit glue. They say to use stabilit glue and then reinforce area with glass and resin. Well, I also heard that resin and glass does not add strength but is only for allowing a surface for paint.
As you can tell I am pretty unfamiliar with working with glass kits and glassing the wing for paint. I have built numerous all balsa kits with monokote covering so this is a new area for me.
Gotta learn someday so it might as well be now. I'm gonna have an American Eagle P-40 built for me later this year but this Yellow kit has almost everything done so I figure it would be a great kit for learning. Looks much easier than the Byrons!
AC
03-22-2002, 03:51 PM
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Vince,
"Change the servo mount from the recommended method to one where the servo is mounted in the wing vs mounted on the cover of the servo bay."
Great idea! makes a lot of sense. Wonder why they don't add that change in the updates unless the feedback has warranted that no more changes are necessary?
Great idea! makes a lot of sense. Wonder why they don't add that change in the updates unless the feedback has warranted that no more changes are necessary?
03-22-2002, 07:36 PM
#35
My Feedback: (37)
Yellow P-47
Never had problems with flaps, I did however deviated from the plans, I used one 1/4 scale servos connected to a torque rod to operated the left and right flaps. The servo is mounted on the top center of the wing and the setup is hidden.
When you glass your wing, lay down all the glass layers and apply resin, having the top layer as the final cover, this way you won't have a big step down, the resin will smooth this out.
Never could find stabilit glue... I used regular Zpoxy finishing resin to glass the wing and used polyester resin for the fuse.
Any thoughts on engine yet?
fw190
When you glass your wing, lay down all the glass layers and apply resin, having the top layer as the final cover, this way you won't have a big step down, the resin will smooth this out.
Never could find stabilit glue... I used regular Zpoxy finishing resin to glass the wing and used polyester resin for the fuse.
Any thoughts on engine yet?
fw190
03-22-2002, 08:26 PM
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Thanks FW190,
Yes, in fact I have an engine for it. The Byron Mustang 50. I was just out in the garage starting it for the first time, sweet engine.
Darn thing must idle at 1500 right out of the box. I'll put my tach on it to be sure but I did not expect it to idle this good this soon!
Amazing.
I'm thinking of going with the Zinger 4-bladed prop, in fact there's a 90% chance I will go that route. Anyone use this setup before?
How about the rudder? Anyone done the hidden control horns thing? Sure does look better that way.
FW, can't you buy the resin that they sell at Ace Hardware? It seems a lot cheaper buying it that way. They have both the polyester (for fuse)and the other style, I can't remember the name right now. They also sell the cut up or ground glass to add to the resin for the firewall when putting in a gas engine.
One thing I noticed when the kit arrived is one of the fuselage formers came loose. It looks as though they use a hot glue to glue them in the fuse. It was the one under the turtle deck.
AC
Darn thing must idle at 1500 right out of the box. I'll put my tach on it to be sure but I did not expect it to idle this good this soon!
Amazing.
I'm thinking of going with the Zinger 4-bladed prop, in fact there's a 90% chance I will go that route. Anyone use this setup before?
How about the rudder? Anyone done the hidden control horns thing? Sure does look better that way.
FW, can't you buy the resin that they sell at Ace Hardware? It seems a lot cheaper buying it that way. They have both the polyester (for fuse)and the other style, I can't remember the name right now. They also sell the cut up or ground glass to add to the resin for the firewall when putting in a gas engine.
One thing I noticed when the kit arrived is one of the fuselage formers came loose. It looks as though they use a hot glue to glue them in the fuse. It was the one under the turtle deck.
AC
03-22-2002, 11:19 PM
#37
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Yellow P-47
Yes you can use resin from hardware stores, as long as it is the laminating variety. There is a brand named "EnviroTex" that Dan Parsons used to recommend. It is used in the arts type application like for putting a thick clear finish on a table. Also you can get very high quality laminating resin from several full scale homebuilt suppliers like Wicks or Aircraft Spruce.
Vince
Vince
03-23-2002, 06:44 PM
#38
My Feedback: (37)
Hot glue
AC2
During the process of putting the bulkheads in, I think Yellow tacks them down with a hot glue gun and then proceed with a fiberglass tow and resin to permanently glue down the bulkhead.
I think they forgot the later part...
You can do is the same, tack down with a hot glue gun and then use chop glass mixed with polyester laminating resin and brush it around where the bulkhead meats the inside of the fuse... make sure you have enough choped glass so that the mixture does not run all over the place or sag elsewhere. Chop glass 1/64" or 1/32" can be found in stores that sell plastics. If you buy one from a hobby store it will cost you plenty for what you get and if get one with a BVM label... you get only 1/8th for what you payed for. I recall that you will need some of this stuff around the firewall when using a gas engine.
Also, do not handle the plane while the resin is curing. Maybe several hours later or better leave it alone overnight.
Going with a glass tow requires a lot of practice... I don't recommend it for anyone...
I don't know about a 4 blader on a 50, I am using Brison 3.2 on with a 2 blade and its just fine. I think you'll need a larger engine for a 4 blade.
fw190
During the process of putting the bulkheads in, I think Yellow tacks them down with a hot glue gun and then proceed with a fiberglass tow and resin to permanently glue down the bulkhead.
I think they forgot the later part...
You can do is the same, tack down with a hot glue gun and then use chop glass mixed with polyester laminating resin and brush it around where the bulkhead meats the inside of the fuse... make sure you have enough choped glass so that the mixture does not run all over the place or sag elsewhere. Chop glass 1/64" or 1/32" can be found in stores that sell plastics. If you buy one from a hobby store it will cost you plenty for what you get and if get one with a BVM label... you get only 1/8th for what you payed for. I recall that you will need some of this stuff around the firewall when using a gas engine.
Also, do not handle the plane while the resin is curing. Maybe several hours later or better leave it alone overnight.
Going with a glass tow requires a lot of practice... I don't recommend it for anyone...
I don't know about a 4 blader on a 50, I am using Brison 3.2 on with a 2 blade and its just fine. I think you'll need a larger engine for a 4 blade.
fw190
03-23-2002, 11:25 PM
#39
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Yellow P-47
Beware: if you use the chopped fiberglass, use a dust mask and plastic gloves. If you inhale any of this stuff it will cause you great grief. Likewise it will also works it's way into unprotected skin.
Wicks Aircraft Supply, and Aircraft Spruce sell this stuff as milled fiberglass. You can buy a lifetime supply for less than you pay for 8oz from any of our traditional suppliers.
Vince
Wicks Aircraft Supply, and Aircraft Spruce sell this stuff as milled fiberglass. You can buy a lifetime supply for less than you pay for 8oz from any of our traditional suppliers.
Vince
