blueline

My Feedback: (6)

Good evening ChickenHawk,

After admiring your craftsmanship I notice you're in Clovis, I was doing some work at C. USD on David E Cook Way last friday and will be returning soon. Your are really giving me motivation and are inspiring me as well. Keep up the good work and thank your for sharing your work with us!

crashproof

Hey Hawk just wanted to drop a line and let ya know I maidened my Yellow P40 today and it flew great. Got three flights on her and the second flight my engine died on climb out and the P40 handled great was able to turn back and had to ditch in a hay field with gear up not even a scratch. 3rd flight great 3 clicks left aileron trim to fly hands off. Take offs and Landings no problem at all. You will be very happy with this P40 if you decide to keep her. I will try to post some video next time out. Kevin.

77chickenhawk

sounds great..

i have a friend with a skyshark p-40. boy! did it look sexy in the sky.. his flew great to eccept for a slight mechanical issue. what did your yellow wheigh out to be?

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Congrats, Crashproof!

crashproof

Thanks for the congrats Shaun. Yellow has a very, very good product. I already new it was but the flight characteristics now only confirms that. Weight was right on the specs, 27 lbs. I have a TFGS P51 with about 100 flights on it, and it feels very comfortable to fly but it took some time to feel it out. The P40 felt this good from flight one. I was to be honest surprised that a Large warbird felt this comfortable through the entire flight envelope on its maiden flight, but that is exactly how it went. A couple pics at the field. Video next time. I never like video on the first time out. I never get low enough on the first day out. Take care, Kevin.

Ryan I.

My Feedback: (4)

Great looking plane, Crashproof! Glad to hear that the maiden went well.

LQUAN

My Feedback: (17)

Hi Crashproof,

Since your P-40 is already flying, may I ask how do you run your antenna wire?

YA P-40 has 2 sheets of cabon fiber cloth running along side of the fuselage and 2 strips of tow-carbon fiber at the seams, would this cause radio signal blockage if you run the antenna inside the fuselage?

I am using the Futaba R149DP receiver. I am planning to run my antenna inside the fuselage near the top seam and up to the vertical fin. What do you think?

CamoCrazy

My Feedback: (1)

Carbon fiber is a conductor and I have heard of people having some trouble with it but not with the 2.4 systems. If you could do your antenna like they were originally not only would you have a scale look you should be clear of any caron fiber issues. Has anyone tried a solo prop on one of these?

Jerry

crashproof

My Plane is flown with a JR 2.4 9303. I was alittle worried about the Carbon in the plane but the main receiver is placed so it is at the bottom of the fuse when right side up which affectively puts it below the Carbon strip. The Sat. receiver is in the Canopy behind the pilots head and has a clear and unobstructed view through the canopy. I used a Data Logger and did an extensive range check using the Data Logger and it went very well. I have so far had no problems with my setup. Kevin.

crashproof

LQ if I was using a 72 mghz with the long antenna I would do as was already suggested and run it out the top then back to the vertical stab like the real one was. Kevin.

77chickenhawk

I finally got some photo's of the thing all together.. these were took at our warbird show. and the other p-40 is also a yellow

crashproof

Looks great Hawk, they both do. If you fly it you won't let it go. They fly great. Wind kept me grounded this past weekend, but this weekend looks good hope to have some video then. Kevin.

ChuckECM

My Feedback: (3)

Nice lookin p-40s guys. I've been a bit of a p-40 freak lately. I started with a Wing Mfg some years ago, then build a Bates p-40c, This pic is of my Bates P-40n-1 I 80" ws built from his plan this past winter. I should be maidening it in the next few weeks. Had a ton of RF trouble with the Fugi 50-EI I put in it. I think the new Spectrum radio, and moving thing around for the past few months has solved the problems.

Ohh, and on the table this winter is another 2- Bates P-40s., 100"ws. I'll be the first to build from the plans at this size. I'll be building a P-40M RNZAF, and a P-40L US 325th desert paint scheme.

LQUAN

My Feedback: (17)

Hi guys, thank you for the tips on routing the antenna. I will route mine outside on top like the full size.

I have learned a lot from 77Chickenhawk. I built my flap and wheel well areas to exact scale. The original P-40Es that were on the lend-lease program to China and bore the first flying tiger and mouth shark markings have 9 ribs on the flaps. The P-40Es the US flown in the Pacific have 10 ribs on the flaps. The upper inside surfaces (on wings) of the flap have 9 rib for both versions. The outside walls of flaps are not counted as ribs. It just my own countless hours of research while running out of things to do at work.

I ripped out the foam flap areas of the wings and rebuilt them new to exact scale - ribs, dummy flap control rods and universal elbows are as shown on the real photos on this post. I replaced the factory V-balsa block for flaps with my own scale flaps. All ribs are cut all at once in 4 separate stacks on a belt sander - the only way to keep them nice and even. Inside areas of the flaps are glassed prior to adding ribs and crossbars. Flap servo pushrods are hidden inside the wings - just like 77Chickenhawk's.

My wheel wells are also built to exact scale. Fitting square wheel wells with simulated corrugated metals, ribs, lightning holes, and hydraulic lines into smaller round holes ain't easy. I spent 70% of the time dwelling on the building sequence and process. Building is the easy part.

I also added raised gun hatches with bullet case ejection holes. I actually cut into the wing and built side walls for the bullet case ejection holes. The hatch were made from the unused supplied 1/64" plywood; didn't need them for the flaps per YA instructions.

There is no way I can match my hatch building skill with 77Chickenhawk. 77Chickenhawk's is absolutely awsome. I will have 2 brass tubings coming out of the under belly wing aft as On/Off switches. The full size P-40E has 2 exhaust ports at the same area, too. The photos are Neil's from www.rcscalebuilder.com.

I am putting a ZDZ80 Super in mine with 3-blade Biela prop. I wish I can afford a Solopro.. I replaced the unreliable Falken ignition with a CH. The engine setup is currenltly on my 33% Aeroworks Edge540T for breakin. With CH, it starts at the first flip after 6 flips for priming - never need a second flip, hot or cold.

{I updated the actual flap rib count above. Sorry for the miss-count.}

LQUAN

My Feedback: (17)

ChuckEMC, beautiful skull marking and weathering.

Where do find that drop tank? Can you fly with it?

ChuckECM

My Feedback: (3)

I made that out of pink foam. I took cross sections on the tank. Made them out of balsa (looked like balsa discs, glued them to the pink foam and sanded and sanded! This shows it a little better.

Yes I will be flying it with the tank on there!

tp777fo

My Feedback: (28)

ChuckECM, there is a Bates kit for sale in the classified section, how are they to build?

at-6 texan

hi 77chickenhawk !!!!I'm like very much the your P-40.very beauty full! great work![sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=wink_smile.gif]

Johnnie Red

Very nice work up to now. Excellent selection is the soloprop with the solohub...Looks like the real thing!!!
Keep us posted mate!!

ChuckECM

My Feedback: (3)

Bates plans are fantastic. You build the fuse from a crutch up (top half) on the board, pop it off and build the bottom. Everything is straight forward, and if you built let say 1 top flight kit, you could build from the Bates with no problem. They have a scale outline and build pretty light. My p-40m shown weighs 24lbs balanced.

77chickenhawk

hey chuckecm

wow your p-40 is nice.. we need more photo's of the detail work

thankx for all the complements.. you guys help keep me motivated

77chickenhawk

hello LQUAN

Im very glad that you have been able to learn something for me. but alot of the scale efects i rearned from someone else. So we are just passing the skills to whoever wants to learn, and im glad to be a part of that.

I learned something from you. lol i did not know about the flap rib count...

now i really would like to see your wheel wells..I got off easy on mine.. mine have a skirt that covers all the inner structure. As in the pic's below. I'm also doing the tailwheel as in the photo's..will hide everything and keep the dirt out as well.

LQUAN

My Feedback: (17)

Hi 77Chickenhawk,

I recounted the flap ribs again. The upper inside surfaces of the flap should have 10 ribs showing per wing. The flaps for the US-Chinese P-40Es fought in China should have 9 ribs, not counting the 2 sides at the ends. The flaps for the US P-40Es should have 10 ribs per flap. The actual rib count on the upper inside surface is actually 11, 1 is hidden under the cover with lightning holes. I have 11 ribs for the upper surface, 1 is holding up the flimpsy 1/64" plywood cover just like the full size. Sorry for the miss-count. I did the flaps a while back and currently concentrating on building a full size cockpit to accommodate the full body BBI Lt. Doc Miller.

I moved the servo tray behind the cockpit and move the fuel tank back against the front end of the cockpit. The ZDZ80 Super is heavy (your ZDZ100 twin is even heavier), I need to move the servo tray behind the cockpit to balance the plane. Neil from www.rcscalebuilder.com had experience balancing this plane. His G62 is about the same weight as my ZDZ80 Super, both with mufflers. Placing the servo tray closer to the rear help cut some slags and weight on the pushrods. I move the 32oz fuel tank back against the front end of the cockpit to put it right on the CG. I will modify my muffler like yours and run the stacks though the firewall where YA instructs to cut out for accessing the wings dowels and down to the outside. This will not take away area for hot air to escape from the cowl. I used to first version of Super Sonic muffler with reinforced bracket. The first generation of muffler crack whithout the supporting bracket. The second version is wider and will not fit in YA P-40.

I was thinking of using the Keleo muffler. Aside from the high cost, I fear that the motor will tear front end of the thin fiberglass structure when mounted directly onto the fiberglass. The single cylinder is a real shaker.

I got my wheel well and flaps details from "P-40 Warhawk" Vol. 62 by Bert Kinzey. The main wheel well canvas dust covers are often removed and almost never put back on at the field by the mechanics. However, I will consider making a cover for the tail wheel well - it gets dusty back there more than anywhere else. It is going to be tough.

Note that corrugated patterns in the wheel well are parallel to the aileron leading edge - not the flap leading edge. The hydraulic lines and pump housing details are from the below link. I will try to take picture of my flap areas and wheel wells tonight and post them.

http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/in...pic=20361&st=0

I am currious on how you are build the tail wheel covers opening/closing mechanism. Building it as the plan would require too much pressure from the retract to close it. Notice how the tail wheel is very close to the pivot of the hinged plate. It seems like the hinge should be forward near the retract to reduce the torque pressure. I need to tinker around to make the covers oper as wide as the full size. Any recommendation?

77chickenhawk

hey i would stay away from the Keleo muffler... to restrictive. make a header that goes out the cowl flapps.. like i did.. gauranteed a free flowing exhaust



I was going to copy the real tail dorr mechanism.. should work fine


this is what i did on my flapps.. i havent got the metal plate with the litening holds yet tho..i just did it how the one im copying..lol

LQUAN

My Feedback: (17)

You're right about Keleo muffler being too restrictive. Not to mention, how does the excess oil get up and out of the small exhaust stacks? Fly inverted half of the time? When mixing 32:1 or 40:1 for ZDZs, you get a lot of excess oil coming out of the stacks. In addition, I am not comfortable of mounting the muffler directly to the thin fiberglass- vibration kills.

Speaking of vibration, I see that you use a lot automotive putting on the fuse to get the raised pannels. Do you think the putting will stay on thru the test of time? I mean the fuse is very thin and flexible. I hope the flexing won't crack the putting.

Here are some photos of what I did to my flap areas. Sorry, I still have the fiber glass over the wheel wells - must keep the dust out for now. I had only the first coat of epoxy resin on the fiber glass. I will put the second coat of epoxy resin after joinning the wings, mounting the belly, adding a few more raised pannels, and smoothing everything with automotive putting. I will remove the excess fiber glass before priming.

The aluminum tube is the dummy flap control rod. It has the same Dubro clevis that YA instructs to use for the elevators for universal elbow. The loose aluminum peice in the photo will go to the clevis and glue to hole on the side wall. The ribs were stringed into the aluminum rod and cross bars and CA into the well surface all (ribs and cross bars) at once. Ribs were created in stack on a belt sander and a table drill to keep them nice and even. Tips: drill the hole before sanding ribs into shape - that way you have a large peice to hold onto while drilling. Keep the drill bit in the hole while sanding to keep them align. The rods will be masked before any painting to keep them look like stainless steel similar to the full size.

The dummy hydraulic lines were made out of brass tubings. I made the shape from junk metal wire first before copying the final shape with brass tubes. The lines connected into black boxes as shown on my previous post. I haven't glued them into the wheel wells, yet. I'll do that after painting.

The little round blue masking tape is made using paper hole puncher to keep the epoxy resin out of the blind nuts below. I am very resistive to use woodscrews on any of my birds - gotta have blind nuts, even in permanent situation.

The 1/64 plywood with red circles is the cover that will go on between the 2 ribs right below it. There will be an extra rib at the middle of the dummy cover to support it.