Prekin

My Feedback: (19)

rigrandy,
can you send me the link and some samples of your plan, please? 108" wing span is not big problem.

rigrandy1959

Would have to wait infill I get back home. About 4hours. On my iPhone right now..I can save you a few dollars buying my extra set

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

I agree....I have 105 oz servos on all my surfaces and they are plenty good enough....Futaba 3305's
I started to rebuild the cabin area of mine after this summers boo-boo.

The plans tell you 18-24#'s....ha....that is before you have to balance this thing and add 3-4# lead to the firewall and end up with a 28# lead sled.
Not happy with the way the plans maker did this plane. I see the larger 1/3 size is just a blown-up copy of these plans with no chage in sizeing of wood.

If I was one of you guys building this plane I would....behind the rear window back to the tail cut big lighting holes and fill them with lite bulsa fill-ins to have a solid surface to paint.

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Randy,

Your servos will be more than enough for the 1/4 scale Bird Dog. I have standard sized Airtronics 94851 MG Digitals on all surfaces (including one on each flap) of my 55 pound 1/3 scale Bird Dog and they do a good job of handling the loads. They also survived the crash and are now back in the rebuilt Dawg. I run A123 6.6 volt batteries and that gives me a rated 192 oz in of power per servo. The Hitec HS5645MG are also very good for your application. None of these are fast but you don't need fast on the Bird Dog.

Prekin

My Feedback: (19)

rigrandy,
I sent a private message to you, so check it please.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

6879...nice looking Skyrader and 1/3 Citabria in your photo albums
Have a pic of your Bird Dog in their?

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Thanks. I had completely forgotten about the photos we can add to our page. I have added the Bird Dog and a couple more.

rigrandy1959

Thanks Gaines.. I will go the servos I have... I have 4 hitec 200 oz... will use them on ele..ail..flaps and the 133 oz on the pull. pull rudder..well while I wait on parts I guess I will layup a couple of cowls and play with them making hatches.. i have a nice mold from the brought cowl... Gaines i need to get with you after i finish this build.. i have another OV-10 about 65 % done and would love to get the fiberglass canopy frame & updated cowls and other parts you came up with..OV-10's get into your blood and hard to get out. after much throught and weighing the carbon rod i decided to mount the slab servo in the back..i know i will catch flak about the bird is tail heavy anyway. my elevator has a joiner for the 2 haves. and i would have to run a long heavy carbon rod anyway the this setup is close and only need a short rod..

rigrandy1959

just messing around cutting out parts I have the wood for.. my pull/pull rudder stuff came.. look around to find the one I wanted..have to put the build on hole Monday as I have to fly back to Saudi Arabia for work the next 5 weeks , then back home 5 weeks..

Azzir325

Hello, gents! I just got on this thread because I am searching around for some knowledge on a similar build, a Vailly Stinson L5 in 1/4 scale. I have the plans and most of the parts that Roy sells, including the photo pack, and I just received my full kit from Larry at Precision Cut Kits. I intend to start my own build thread shortly. I have built kits before, but never something this size, and generally "pin over plans" and at least some kind of an instruction manual, which of course you don't get with this kit. Like some of you expressed, I am afraid to glue something out of order and find myself screwed.

Do any of you know of a Stinson thread that I missed somewhere? It would be helpful. As far as my build goes, I am steeling myself up to putting on first glue. I have set up a table in my living room that is on wheels so I can walk around it, and laid out the plans for the horizontal stab/elevator. It looks like I can build the elevator flat on the plans starting with the lower cap strips, trailing edge and leading edge and work up from there. The stab has spars top and bottom and I think I can work from the lower spar upward. At least, that's my plan.

Thanks in advance for any advice, cheers or well wishes. I'm sure I will need them ALL! LOL
Rick

fred123

I would appreciate any thoughts any of you might have on a problem I am trying to work out. My engine is a DLE 55, with a rear carb. The problem is that the choke and throttle servos would seem to require that the control rods go thru where the tank is supposed to be mounted. My elevator and rudder survos are mounted low in front of 5. I plan to make the cabin floor removable, so the batt. and receiver will go somewhere under the floor. The only solution I can come up for the throttle and choke servos is to mount them in the motor box and mount the tank cross-wise between the firewall and #2, with an access hatch under it. I have never mounted a tank that way, but since I don't expect to do any knife edges, I don't see that there should be a problem... Any thoughts?? Fred123

Azzir325

I had to mount the tank crosswise in the H 9 Taylorcraft I had, and it was never an issue.
Rick

WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

Fred123,

The servos would work where you stated, but the tank is another question.

My concern would be while in a steep turning bank opposite of the clunk, you could pull air while the fuel is settled to the stopper side of the tank causing a loss of power.[X(]

Is there a tank made to support this installation with a sliding clunk. Stranger things have been developed with-in our hobby.

rigrandy1959

Gaines had a question. I know that we all want to keep the weight down aft.. did you put in any lead weights in the counter balance tabs on the elevator halves.?. a couple of guys did, the only reason I could see to do it would be to take a lot of the load off the servo. also loved the carbon gear you did. be wanting to do the same. will give it a go and by the way how well did it hold up.? and did you make up any landing gear cuffs the dress up were the hear entered the fuselage.?

fred123

Warbirdrcer: As far as mounting my tank side to side, thought I might cut the clunk shorter so that it touched the middle of the tank rather than reaching all the way to its end. This might address your concern to some extent.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

1959...no, to putting any lead counter balances in the stab. I also see a guy is putting his elevator servo back there also. Makes me tremble to do that to a scratch built airplane. He should have bought a ARF Bird Dog. These planes are tail heavy wonders....

It has been a year since I have had my cowl off and I had to think how I did the carburetor hook-ups.
I used these on my gas engine http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/TBMCARBARMSL.html
Also used ball links to get futher to the side of the tank.
Flexible nyrod (blue & yellow)

Also guys don't forget to use that plywood windshield brace to brace the front of the windshield.
If you build up speed and the windshield flexes from side to side the plane will get squirrely. Don't ask me how I know this!
Good luck

gsmith6879

My Feedback: (37)

Randy,

With the servo power you have you don't need counterweights on the surfaces. Keep the tail as light as possible or you will be adding pounds not ounces to the nose to get it to balance.

The carbon gear didn't work out. After the Dawg got above 50 pounds the gear just wouldn't handle the load. Your smaller and lighter Bird Dog may be OK.

fred123

Have been working on mounting flap servos, and since the method I chose is a little different that others shown on this thread I thought I would post it. Rather than building a separate tray as others have done, I chose to mount the servos on the hatch cover. I have used this on many kit planes and have never had a failure. I did use khodges dubro turnbuckle idea that worked great.

rigrandy1959

really bummed out haveing to put off my build for the next 5 weeks . haveing to come back to work in Saudi Arabia.. will be checking in every so offten, checking out everyone's builds.. stay safey guy's

redtail

My Feedback: (15)

Stay well, check your six (I'm Retired Air Force). I'm sure your family will take care of you but if I can send you something in a care package, let me know. I have to get back on my DAWG also. Chic

rigrandy1959

Thanks for the offer Redtail. but i'm armed to the teeth and the food is good..and i have a nice buggy for therunning around..and it's still cool over here right now around 92F in the day and 65F at night and i'm like 800 Km in the open desert and no one around, as long as the Sat system stays up i have internet and phone. no cell or landlines out here..a butt load of camels and desert dudes but very very nice people..thisMay will make working over here 12 years...5 weeks on/ 5 weeks off.

redtail

My Feedback: (15)

Roger That.

fred123

As I said in previous posts, the DLE 55 with its rear carb. has given me some challenges. I decided to mount the throttle and choke servos in the motor box and mount the tank cross wise behind the firewall. I beefed up the motor box by building the sides and bottom all from 1/4 plywood. I only used 1/8 inch for the top lid.

WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

Looks great Fred123!

rigrandy1959

Shapeing up to be another nice day in Saudi Arabia.. I would rather be home working on my Dawg