Canuck1

OK guys, here is how I am doing this.
This is not totaly scale however it will achieve the effect I am looking for. I am doing the bottoms of the elevators first, to see if I like it.

Pic 1...........Control surface, covered and primed.
Pic 2,3 and 4.....1/8 cloth tape has a self adhesive and is applied over the ribs.
Pic 5........Cut some solar tex in 1/4 in widths, this will go over the cloth 1/8 tape.
Pic 6........Attaching the covering to the control surface, leave some over hang at both ends for a good bond.
Pic 7 and 8........Iron is placed on low heat, and it is attached.
Pic 9........1/8 tape is all covered.
Pic 10.....I used a trim iron on low heat, to force covering down, and it makes the 1/8 tape stand out.
Pic 11.....Elevator ready to prime.
Pic 12.....Elevator is primed.

I will wet sand the elevator after it has cured over night. This will smooth out the surface. I did the other elevator the other day and it turned out pretty good.
This is probably not the best method, however I thought about it the other day, and thought I would give it a try.

Craig.

Canuck1

Just sanded the rudder after putting primer onto it last night. First 2 pics are before, pic 3 and 4 are after the sanding. The rib detail realy stands out, and it gives me a good idea for the weathering effect, down the road

Craig

77chickenhawk

thats a pretty darn good idea!!

To late for my P-40 but I will remember how it's done for the next project.

thankx

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

It's not that hard to make, yet it looks the part!

Thanks for the tip, V.

Canuck1

Finished up the elevators. Pretty happy with the way they turned out and I have achieved the effect that I was going for. Need to work on the trim and booster tabs, then the elevators will be pretty much done.

Craig

Canuck1

Booster tabs are under construction. They have been fitted, hinged and positioned on the elevator. Plenty of deflection up and down. They will be permanently installed after some finishing as well as the placing of the control arms.

Craig

John Redman

My Feedback: (8)

Craig,

I have followed from the beginning. Awesome job. For those out there who might be interested, I have a NIB Byron Corsair sitting in the shop and have thought about parting with it. Anyone interested let me know.

Canuck1

John
I am sure someone will be contacting you with regards to the Corsair.
Glued on the elevator trim tabs, and have the booster tabs in location with the hinges. I also made the control arms for the control surfaces. Still need to fill a few areas on the tabs. Shot a quick coat of primer on to have a look.

Craig

zzkevin

[quote]ORIGINAL: Canuck1

I am begining the start of my Byron Corsair build. I am in no rush, have lots to fly this year, but will build hopefully on a steady basis. The fuselage has been sanded and washed. The wheel wells have been cut out, as well as the two access hatches in the bottom.
Right now I am playing with the retracts. I have an older set that fit pretty good, however some repairs are needed. They are good for fitting in the landing gear supports. First issue is they will mount good, but they will not be able to be removed. The rotating nuckle at the front end will cause an issue to remove, due to the tight fit. I will remove some of the landing gear rail, so I can remove the gear, for maint and repairs. After installation I will reinforce the rail.

Craig


Would any of you guys know of the C OF G point on the corsair , I have one of the byron corsair,s its an oldy rebuilt I have fitted fuji 86cc twin in the front of her and I would like to kwow where it was originalybalanced at my balance point at this time is 5" inches from the leading edge I would be pleasd to hear from you

reguards KEV

Canuck1

Kevin
Mine has marks in the fuselage that you are suppose to drill out, which is the balance point. I am pointing to it in the picture. I did a rough measurement from the leading edge, it is at 5 1/4 inches. Hope this helps.

Craig

Canuck1

Worked on the elevator trim tab controls, and played with burning in a few rivets. I will hook up the booster tabs, once the elevators are permanently attached.

Craig

vasek

My Feedback: (4)

This might be a silly question but
can anyone explain to me the purpose/ use of the booster tab on real planes pls?

Thanks,V.

av8ter

My Feedback: (33)

Booster tabs work in the oposite direction of the control surface deflection. This aids (boosts) the control surface movement and takes some of the aerodynamic force from the stick. When you move the stick forward (down elevator) the boost tab would move up and aid in the surface movement in the down direction. Many aircraft used them.

Larry

Ram-bro

My Feedback: (101)

Do you hink boost tabs would help in the rc world? I imagine they would help with battery life and servo wear and tear.

Canuck1

Not to sure if they would help. Just thought I would do them, and the only ones that I will make functional are the elevators.

Craig

Canuck1

Not much done lately due to house painting etc. However I am almost ready to do panel lines on the wings so I am giving the wings a good once over with some 400 grit wet paper.

Craig.

Canuck1

Spent the last 3 hours drawing lines on the wing. Its a good start, the top is almost done, need to do the bottom next.

Craig.

rt3232

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Craig

I asume you will/are going to tape the lines??

Bob T

Canuck1

Bob
The panel lines will be taped over with some 1/64th chart tape, only for the panel lines. The simulated fabric will be done, by taping the area off, exposing only the rib locations. This will be primed, then the tape will be removed and the rib locations will show up.
Started working on the wing tip light area tonight. I cut the fiberglass away and will be working on the lenses, and the fake lights. I am also making the pitot tube removeable, and will glue in the aluminum tubing to accept the pitot tube.

Craig

Canuck1

Did some more work on the wing tip lights. I filled in the the spaces with balsa then went over the area with 1/8th balsa to achieve some overhang for the attachment of the lenses. I glassed the outside area, and when that has set up, I will glass the inside portion. Then I will fill the weave, prime, rivet, paint and place in the fake lights that I have not made yet.

Craig

Canuck1

Filling and priming went well. I will do the interior next, including the fake light.

Craig

Canuck1

Started working on the fake fabric wing portions tonight. Have the tops and bottoms of the wings masked so the primer will fill the rib area for the effect I am looking for. I also painted the insides of the wing tip lights. I still need to make fake lights, and put on the chart tape for the panel lines. I hope to get this done, and primed within the next couple of days.

Craig

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

Yes they do work. Some of the giant scale aerobatic guys use them, esp on rudder. They can cut down on the number of servo's needed, and would probably also, like you said, cut down on wear and tear on servos and batteries. If you go to ***********, and search around, there was some discussion. They were flying a 40% Laser on one servo per surface I think with no problems at all.

Canuck1

The weather is going to get very cold tomorrow so I went ahead with the panel lines and priming. I will sand the primer back to expose the panel line tape, then I will remove the tape. I will let it set up for a few days before I proceed.

Craig

Canuck1

I removed the panel line tape, and the masking tape for the fake fabric area, and the wing ribs stand out pretty good.

Craig