is this D section on the world models one? seeing as i did not assemble it, i was tempted to rip the thing out to have a look, i was concerned it was just a grub screw holding it, the 45 in mine, by the way, cannot be seen from 20 foot away, with the model standing on a 4 foot table,

Hello Alan, yes the rod that goes across the fuselage rear has a flat milled on it, I was concerned that everything could slip round but all three horns have a D section moulded into the bore. The worst that could happen if the centre horn grub screw did come loose is that it could move from side to side but not disconnect. Likewise the two outer horns, and on these the self tapping screw goes right through the shaft and is visible for checking.
This system is quite clever because if it's installed with a bit of thought the servo actually pulls for up elevator rather than the normal push for up which I think is the idea of it...
One mod I did do though, did away with the closed loop and used a carbon tube instead, don't mind on rudder but would not trust a crimp on a crucial control surface!
Maybe I'm too cautious but better safe than sorry!
Gary.

thanks for that, i was going to rip it out today, and have a look,

Bokis, forgot to ask, what prop do you recommend please? Gary.

I tried several props om this engine and APC 17x8 is by far the best one to use for me.. The installation,I cant remember that i had any problems with it except fitting in the cowl with this aluminium bars,the bars had to be mounted first on "the wooden box" and it takes some time to fit that in...
I´ll placed the throttle servo on top of the same box,and glued 2 4cells sub-c pack on each side of the same box..
A little bit of led inside the cowl (I use silicon to glue everything,both led and acc and servo)
The final touch with this airplane is to use a Keleo system with the engine,that is what make this engine sound so good ,thanks Kelvin![sm=thumbs_up.gif]
//Bokis

Thanks very much for that, exremely helpful. Interestingly I use that size prop on my 160 SC Twin in the Super Chipmunk. Gary.

Hello,

I am new to RC Universe, but have been building model planes since the early 50's. I have a CMP 80" Zero for a winter project, and would like some advice
on the engine selection. I have a Saito FA 300 T that will fit with some slight mods to the cowling for the valve cover clearance. The engine weight is around 64 oz
and should come close to not having to use any lead for proper CG.

My flying preference is to fly the Zero in a scale manner, close in and low, with typical scale type maneuvers. Might be fun to chase around a F4F or F6F.

Any comments will be appreciated.


Ken

Clarksville, PA

USA

Hello Ken, welcome to RCU.
If it helps I am just finishing mine off, using like Bokis a Saito 170R. I found with that I am having to bolt about 2 1/2 lbs of lead to the bulkhead as well as a 4300 mah 5 cell Nimh battery.
You should have a better time using a heavier engine.
Sounds like you fly similar to myself, there is an art in flying warbirds to look scale, especially landing![X(]
You will find people on this forum very helpful, if you get stuck just put a post on.
In your kit can you tell me if the four aluminium joining brackets for the wing halves are identical in size?
Gary.

I have a 18 pound Platt 79" type 32 Hamp. I use a OS 160fx with just a bit of lead up front. It flys very well. I would make every effort to move heavy items forward and make the tail as light as possible. I also use 5 cell packs in the 1000-1700mah range

Hi Gary,

The aluminum joiners are all the same in the hardware pack. From reading the posts on RC Universe I am aware of the tail heavy problem.
My plan is to keep track of the CG as the various components are installed, and use the battery pack size and location as a final CG adjustment.

I am still looking at retracts and kind of leaning toward Sierra. I want to get started, but have a CMP Yak 140 that I am trying to finish up.

Ken

One thing about tail heavy,I think I have added something like 1 lbs (a little less actually) inside the cowling,I use silicon glue and place the led as forward as possible inside the engine cowling..2 ½ lbs sunds like a lot to me..
Ive have also used the pull/pull arrangement to the elevator and it´s works excellent for me..

As I suspected Ken, my joiners are three different lengths! Not that it matters much I suppose as the wing is held firmly together by the front dowels and bolts when assembled.
Bokis, I bolted my lead onto the sides of the engine box, I thought it may be too much weight to hang in the cowling as its only held on by 4 small screws, I guess though if you weight the front of the cowl you need less lead.
Fuel proofing tonight, should be test flying next Sunday, can't wait.
On the elevator mechanism one thing I really like is that the servo pulls rather than the normal push, a good idea.
Gary.