fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

The 1/6 scale pilots are just to big. Here is one sitting in my early mockup of the rear of the fuse. The depth of the cockpit area is not a scale depth due to the wing. The canopy would not fit on with the 1/6 scale pilot either ...

Ty

YOADRIAN

Wow but your close, so the support rods run under the cockpit floor so no chopping the seat down or the seat base to have them clear for more head room. As per the picture they do not seem to big its just finding a way to carv there rear ends down so they sit lower. As for the canopy i will be building my own for a more auth look. Thanks for the info Wulf that has always been my pet pee "cockpits and pilots".

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Yoadrian,
There is no room to run anything under the cockpit floor except wires. You can drop the seat I have on the cockpit about 1/2 to 3/4" if you cut the stand away. There is a servo tray just behind the cockpit that can house all the servos needed for the controls. There is actually room in the nacelles for the total installation of the retracts in the wing. so when to pull it apart you only have to unhook your retract servo....

Ty

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Ok I have already deveated from the order of the build, per manual. Before you glue the wing together I made more since to me to go ahead and mount the motors while it a small unit and that way I would ding the wing up moving it around.
I am mounting the Skyshark Lightning 75 motors . I figure the best with electric is to try to figure out how to mount the batteries for the motor out in the cowl. this will help with the balanceof the plane. I decided to make a box for th emotor to mount on and I will also use this box to help contaim the Lipo battery. I did as instructions said I made my mount and at 160 mm from the firewall. Once mounted I found that this set the thrust washer about 1/4" off of the cowl ring. I am not sure If the spinners that come out later have a recess to accomidate the excess lenght or not.

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Another thing I decided to do. I have been thinking about this since I ordered the plane. getting the lipo's in and out. The best spot as stated before is out oin the cowl to help balance the plane. Well I took one of the cowls and taped off the scoop area. I figure I can make a hatch here . I did not want the to be gaps all round it so I need a hatch bigger than the cut out area. So I waxed it all up built a parting flange. Sprayed it with PVA and made me a mold of the area. No I can lay up a hatch and be able to cut it to size needed...

Ty

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

There is plenty of room for a 6 cell lipo standing vertically in the box behind the motor..

Ty

kahloq

What size 6 cell? Im thinking it might be a good spot for one of the two 5s 4900mah size batts per motor I plan on using.

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

I have 6 cell 5000 mah batteries. I may buy 4- 3 cell 5000 mah packs for this one. I am not sure yet...

ty

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Ok I have had a very busy day. My wife is out of town all 4 kids at home and I had to take my grandfather to the ER due to his breathing. But I still got something done today/night anyway...

I went ahead and build my motor boxes to get the motors out far enough. I went with the 160 mm even though I think it may be a bit too much.
Once I had the boxes built and the motors installed on the boxes. I then move the centering the motors to the cowls. I don't do ir by measuring on the front as the manual suggest. I made me a 3-1/4" circle to put on the prop hub. I then placed it motor on the firewall, then placed the cowl in the correct position. I then placed the circle on the prop hub. I then centered the motor to the front of the cowl. once this was done I very carefully removed the cowl and traced the location of the box on the firewall. I then plced a couple drops of 5 minute epoxy on the motor box and did the process again. I kept it centered until th eglue was dry. Now my motor is mounted perfectly... I then drilled throught the top of the box through to the firewall. I now secured the motor box with the bolts and blind nuts supplied....

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

After in got both motor mounted I then moved back to the wing and finished drilling all the dowel holes. Once I had the holes drilled I added the dowels. I then trail fit everything again. The paint on these planes is very smooth and epoxy will not stick to it very well. You have to scuff up anywhere you need to glue to . So You have to sand both sides of the nacelles so they will stick to the wing panels. I glued all there wing panels together for both wing halves.

I may end up gluing the outboard panel on permenatly. I have not decided yet. I di use painter tape to help keep the glue from getting all over the wing...
I also used 36" clamps to hold the wing together while the glue dried..I don't think it would be possible by hand...

Ty

jmohn

Ty,

Is there any way to get the batteries in the fuze or do they have to go in the nacells? I was thinking about making the cockpit come off so that the batteries could be changed easier instead of the nacells that would require you to tunr the plane upside down to swap them. It looks like it's pretty tight between the wing and cockpit, but I haven't started on mine yet.


Jeff

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Jeff,
It is very tight between the wing and the cockpit. One part of the floor almost sits in the wing saddle.

I am going to make a hatch just under the scoop on each nacelle so I can get to the batteries out in th cowl area. You could easily place the batteries in the nacelle just above the landing gear but this would not help your balance. The only problem with putting th ebatteries in the fuse is that you would have alot of voltage drop running it that far I believe... If balance is not a problem I am going to put my Lipos above the landing gear. I am going to put my flight batteries in the nose to get the weight as far forward as possible....I will know very soon about the balance of the plane....

Ty

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Ok I got all the wing pieces glued together. I then moved to gluing the 2 halves together. In the process of making sure they fit I found that one side was about 1/6" higher than the other and this was dictated by the joining spar . So I have to sand off about 1/16" from the bottom of one side to allow the halves to even up more..

Ty

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Once the wing was glued together It was time to put the leading edge dowels in and drill the holes the the fuse to match. The manual has you drill all the hole seperately and then hope they all align. There Is just not good way to make all the measurements. So I did it the easy way. I am planning on putting my flight batteries in the nose anyway . I marked offf the locations of the hole on the front of the fuse and drilled them out with a 5/16" drill bit. I then drilled 2 1/2" holes at the base of the blunt nose of the fuse. I then made sure the wing was in the correct position. I then took a long 5/16" drill bit a drill from the front throught the fuse holes into the leading edge of the wing . I just drilled in about 1/4" . I then pulled the wing off and drilled the hole all the way through. This made all the hole match perfectly... I than glued 2 dowels into the leading edge of the wing....

Ty

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

I then moved to the rear of the wing. It has a hold down doubler plate. it does not like to bend with the dihedrial so I scribed it down the center to make it bend easier. It does not say to in the manual but I removed the covering where the plate was going. I then glued the plate in place. I then drilled the holes for the screws and blindnuts...

Ty

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Next I moved to the horizontal. I did not follow the Manual on this either. I wanted to mount it before I installed all the verticals and servos just to make working on it easier.
Boy I about scr_wed the pooch on this one.. Once again I have had bad experiences trying to drill hole in 2 different pieces and then hopping that they will fit properly. Well where the horizontal plugs in is a flat area. you are to drill 2 holes at a given point on each side. I marked it off and I wanted to drill an 1/8" pilot hole so I could use small brass tubes to make a mark on the leading edge of the horizontal. Well when you drill the hole it goes well. There is a bulkhead just behind the fiberglass. I just drilled through the fiberglass and not the wood. I took 2 short pieces of 1/8" brass tube and placed in the holes I then slid the horizontal in place and press very hard. This allowed the brass to make marks on the front of the horizontal. I then drilled out the holes in the horizontal. I 1/8 first then with a 1/4" drill. I then turned to the fuse. I started drilling. The fiberglass is brittle once a hole is in it and it chipped away instead of drilling. I drilled on through the bulkhead.
I then installed the dowels in the leading edge of the horizontal. I then trial fitted the horizontal. I found that the holes due to the angle the drill was allowed to lay at were too low. The horizontal would plug in but it would not lay down on the saddle. I had to ake a rat tail file and relieve the top of the hole until the horizontal would lay in the saddle... It all worked out in the end... Just be very careful installing the horiaontal....even thoght the hole look horrible the fit is nice and tight

These pic's did not come out well....

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

OK after the dowels were in I then placed the hold down bolt in the correct location.

Now it appears that I am using the manual at this point only as a guide. Once the horizontal was mounted I removed it to the bench and installed the 2 servos. The Hitec HS-81 is a perfect fit into the horizontal and it has plenty of torque for its job. I mounted to the door per instructions. I then cut the servo leads and soldered them into a homemade Y. I buy Servo wire in bulk and install my own ends...

Ty

jmohn

How many HS-81s do you need? Are they the ones to use for the rudders too? What are the other servos I will need? I was going to use 322s where possible otherwise.


Jeff

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

I am only using the HS -81's for the rudders. I am using all standard servo's everywhere else but the elevator. I always just use standard servos. It take very little torque on the other surfaces.

Ty

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

I then put the horizontal back on the fuse and mounted the verticals. Thta was pretty easy. they slide right on. you just need to make sure they are perpendicular to the horizontal. I used tape to make sure i did not get glue everywhere... I hope this is not an omen. the work numbers on my verticals was "13"

Ty

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Next I moved to the tail wheel. Like someone said elsewhere the tail wheel assembly was lacking in strength for me. So I changed it. I usually keep a couple tail wheel brackets around for my 109's. They looked close to the size needed. So I used the ply parts supplied. the tail wheel bracket and steering arm are from Robart. I use 5/32" wire and set it as per pic's

Ty

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

BTW,
If anyone needs them I am getting some swastika's, for the verticals, from my graphics guy. They are the correct size. They are $2 each.....

Ty

MANFRED

My Feedback: (27)

A couple of questions at this point. Does anyone know the RLM match for the camo dots? I will need to elaborate on these as they are a bit too round and uniform. Also, how about after market retracts? Anyone contact Sierra or Shinden yet? By the way this kit is AWESOME! great detail and very solid build. I wonder if you could run the electric likes gear in this ship.

kahloq

What type of decals are they and yes Id be interested in several

F82FAN

My Feedback: (10)

Shinden has been contacted by Tomas (VQwarbirds.com) and he has the dimensions for the gear. Said he'd whip us out some sets ASAP.
Wally