Top Flite P-47D Thunderbolt ARF .60-.91: Building & Mods
Same thing happend to me when I was charging my H9 AT-6 in the back of my van and the airfield. I remember that it was taking a long time for my 6V 2700 NiMh pack to charge. The last time I went to check on the pack it was smoking inside the foam wrapping. Luckly I was able to cut the battery loose from my plane before any damage occured.
But I could have lost my Plane, Van and any other auto that was parked next to me. I don't trust any battery when it's charging anymore.
Regards, Jim
I have also had Nimh battery packs incinerate on 2 different occasions. One time I was charging a pack installed in a GWS Zero... walked away for a bit and came back to the whole front of the plane melted and smoldering. Evidence was there that it had been on fire!!! It was then that I found a new respect for Ni-mh and Ni-cds! I could have lost everything.
Speaking of batteries, what size and configurations are you guys putting in this plane? I have a JR 791 retract servo installed that I can't use a 5 cell with, but have a Hitec Optima 7 receiver and other servos that can take 5 cells. If I was to go with a separate battery for the retracts, what size can anyone recommend?
On the JR 791 servo, you must use 4.8 volts. They don't work on 6 volts. I run the 4.8 volt 2200 Mah NiMh on my mechanical retracts in my H9 p-47 .60 size, and the same battery pack in my H9 P-47 1.50. No problem and plenty of power.
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Here is the way I have my two batteries packs set up in my planes.
Jim
With the 20cc, air retracts, 2,300mAh A123 in the stock location she ballanced perfectly at the recommended CG!
I should get an all up dry weight later today.
Xoar 16 x 8 prop.
Ready for the DLE-20cc conversion maiden this weekend, if the weather holds.
With the 20cc, air retracts, 2,300mAh A123 in the stock location she ballanced perfectly at the recommended CG!
I should get an all up dry weight later today.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b12kNE9t3nw[/youtube]
Congratulations for your gas-conversion, ... it flew beatifull, did you landed with flaps ?.
Manolo.
Thanks Manolo,
The re-maiden flight had a few issues, but once in the air and trimmed if flew great and the DLE 20 ran perfectly.
The new air retracts didn't want to come up completely so I left them down, subsequent flights I had no problem with them. Ihad damaged the tail wheel in a prior crash when the elevator servo went out and I wasn't aware that it was free-wheeling and causing it to not run straight and true like it always does, and Iwas way out of trim on the elevator which almost put me into the ground on take off!
I've found that the recommended first position flap setting works great for me. I deploy it after I make a gear check pass and it tends to float just a bit but settles down before the turn onto base as the speed decreases.
I just pulled my P-47 out to start assembly and had a hopefully quidk question. The manual indicates to use regular rotaion servos on both the flaps, with one mounted facing inboard.
I already have reversed servos to use for flaps and prefer them to both be more centered on the control surface. In looking at the flap it appears that the wooden mounting block for the conrtol horn is set up to allow me to do that.
My question is, am I seeing correctly, is the block long enough to allow flipping the one servo around to use a reversed servo?
.................My question is, am I seeing correctly, is the block long enough to allow flipping the one servo around to use a reversed servo?
Tx buddies.
Manolo.
Basically they are air retracts with an electric motor & screwjacks in place of the air cylinder plus
some electronics to make it all work.
http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...ProdID=EFLG400
John.
[8D]This morning I went to fly the Jug for the second time, I used full flaps on first landing and landed beautifull,.... More latter I will post some pics. On the second sortie, everything was fine, but landing gear failed, and doesn´t opened so I must did a belly landing near a wheat field close to the runway. hopefully, no damage at all, it was incredible, neither the sway braces, nothing,.... but when I checked what happened I finded a dead and burned Hitec HS 75 retract servo, so please what is a good retract servo for this airplane. No Jr, cause I´m using a 6V. battery. It is Futaba 136 G a good option ?. Also CorsairJock posted in earlier post that he used two standard servos for retract but I readed the entire post twice and could find more details or photos of this set up, so please, Mr. Corsair, can you post some pics and explain to me how you did your retract set up. I know that many of you are using air retracts but I want to keep on mechanicals.
Tx buddies.
Manolo.
http://www.acro3d.com/public/phpbb3/...8920&start=465
Cheers.
Manolo.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10458390
I am considering using the new E-flite electric retracts. Which fit better, the 85 or 90 degree retracts?
Also, can anyone provide feed back on how well they work?
THANKS!!
I've used the JR Sport RT-88 low-profile retract servo on 6 volts. Horizon Hobby lists some 6v specs here:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...080#quickSpecs
Good Luck!
Patrick
....................Also CorsairJock posted in earlier post that he used two standard servos for retract but I readed the entire post twice and could find more details or photos of this set up, so please, Mr. Corsair, can you post some pics and explain to me how you did your retract set up. I know that many of you are using air retracts but I want to keep on mechanicals.
Tx buddies.
Manolo.
There are several companies who make very simular servos, they are characterized as having the same profile/ shape as most retract servos, and about the same weight (about 1.2 oz).
They can be purchased with or without metal gears: I recommend the metal geared versions.
The cycle times are usually slightly slower due to the gearing, but they typically have between about 80 ~ 110 oz/ in of torque, which is plenty since each one only operates one leg (instead of one servo for 2 legs on typical/ conventional mechanical retract installation).
I usually buy mine from a place that used to be called Balsa Products, but now is known simply as BP, NOT to be confused with the oil spill company (maybe bad idea on their part?).
As installed, because the servos are separated by the wing rib rather than above it: they can be mounted a little lower, WHICH IS GOOD, because standard installation tends to position servo too high in the wing, resulting in linkage clearance issues and possible binding.
And of course, by using PROPORTIONAL servos: speed can be controlled by either a $10 aftermarket device OR the transmitter on some of the higher end models. AND, servo endpoints can be used to PRECISELY setup the linkage for optimum travel, rather than having to choose a precise location for linkage connections and adjustments.
I am extremely happy with my installation, I feel it is better than anything else, because I am able to set each leg to retract at a different speed, thereby looking VERY realistic.
Here is link to one servo option:
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...85&pid=W776484