MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
#2701
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: JESSHEIM Ullensaker, NORWAY
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Hello meshari !
If you read the hole thread, you will find thousand questions and thousand different answers (this is the nature of rc pilots,I think. Everybody has their own experience and sometimes locked opinion)
However,here is my "experiences":
Fuel: Use envirionmental fuel, such as Aspen or Stihl premixed 50:1
I use Stihl premixed, and after hundreds of liters used, no problems, whatsoever
Prop: Biela 32x18 is a good Choice. Remember this is a low rpm engine, and it must push air.(The moki performs best at approx 4000 rpm. If you look at youtube, you will see (hear) mokis rev almost as two strokers.. ( crazy)
On a 250 this prop will rev about 4400 to 4500 on ground, and, of cource, the engine unloads in the air, and accordingly, get an even higher rpm. For this reason, I have ordered a Biela 32x22. Biela says 4200 on ground.Not tested yet
Pump; I use pump on all my radials ( Moki Evolution) with good result. You get a constant fuel pressure on carb in all attitudes.
Hint: be careful with needle settings with pump. I have experienced higher fuel consumption using pump without loss of rpm. Just a couple of clicks in on H needle, and the problem was solved.
To check this, fill up your one liter gas tank, and run Your engine with various throttle settings, and it should run for approx 25 min
Turblator: never used it, but will give more evenly mixed air inside crankcase and then more smoothly running engine
Almost certain, you will loose some push rods caused by stuck exhaused valves, so stock up :-)
regards Straightleg
If you read the hole thread, you will find thousand questions and thousand different answers (this is the nature of rc pilots,I think. Everybody has their own experience and sometimes locked opinion)
However,here is my "experiences":
Fuel: Use envirionmental fuel, such as Aspen or Stihl premixed 50:1
I use Stihl premixed, and after hundreds of liters used, no problems, whatsoever
Prop: Biela 32x18 is a good Choice. Remember this is a low rpm engine, and it must push air.(The moki performs best at approx 4000 rpm. If you look at youtube, you will see (hear) mokis rev almost as two strokers.. ( crazy)
On a 250 this prop will rev about 4400 to 4500 on ground, and, of cource, the engine unloads in the air, and accordingly, get an even higher rpm. For this reason, I have ordered a Biela 32x22. Biela says 4200 on ground.Not tested yet
Pump; I use pump on all my radials ( Moki Evolution) with good result. You get a constant fuel pressure on carb in all attitudes.
Hint: be careful with needle settings with pump. I have experienced higher fuel consumption using pump without loss of rpm. Just a couple of clicks in on H needle, and the problem was solved.
To check this, fill up your one liter gas tank, and run Your engine with various throttle settings, and it should run for approx 25 min
Turblator: never used it, but will give more evenly mixed air inside crankcase and then more smoothly running engine
Almost certain, you will loose some push rods caused by stuck exhaused valves, so stock up :-)
regards Straightleg
#2704
My Feedback: (62)
Meshari, I have the 215 remember so I have good results with either a 32x18 or a 33x16 both being Laminated SEP props from Germany.(around 42 to 4400 rpm) in response to Straightlegs comments...the use of Seafoam will completely eliminate stuck valves and prevent carbon buildup.....really! Never lost a pushrod and I fly a lot! Even with these props throttling back in a dive is most important!
#2705
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: JESSHEIM Ullensaker, NORWAY
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/Straightleg
#2707
#2711
My Feedback: (2)
nine o nine,
As Maxam has recommended, I am also a user of Seafoam. Use on the valves both internally and external to de-gum. Also use 1oz per gallon in the mix to keep the valves clean. I'v had good results with the Moki and with all my small engines. I use a gas/oil mix consisting of Stihl Ultra and ethanol free gasoline at 45/1. From what info I have read, Stihl Ultra is formulated for use in their 4 stroke engines using the gas/oil premix.
Jaketab
As Maxam has recommended, I am also a user of Seafoam. Use on the valves both internally and external to de-gum. Also use 1oz per gallon in the mix to keep the valves clean. I'v had good results with the Moki and with all my small engines. I use a gas/oil mix consisting of Stihl Ultra and ethanol free gasoline at 45/1. From what info I have read, Stihl Ultra is formulated for use in their 4 stroke engines using the gas/oil premix.
Jaketab
#2713
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Pitt Meadows,
BC, CANADA
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When I was down at Monster Planes, Scott gave me a couple of ounces of seafoam to add to my 40:1 Stihl mix for my 400
Now, whether it was a coincidence or not, I don't know, but after my last 8 flights, I noticed that the normally oily exhaust had dried up to just a dry sooty appearance, and a lot less oil residue on the landing gear on the #3 side.
I haven't yet pulled the plugs to check if #3 has dried up.
Cheers,
Dave.
Now, whether it was a coincidence or not, I don't know, but after my last 8 flights, I noticed that the normally oily exhaust had dried up to just a dry sooty appearance, and a lot less oil residue on the landing gear on the #3 side.
I haven't yet pulled the plugs to check if #3 has dried up.
Cheers,
Dave.
#2714
My Feedback: (1)
We're talking only about the liquid Seafoam fuel additive right? What about the Seafoam brand penetrating oil and lube in the spray can for hitting the valve stems and rockers a good idea too or will it wash away any other oiling such as the chainsaw lube which I use ( it doesn't fly off) ? Mitch
#2718
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mims, FL
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Yes, I have seen it in most automotive parts houses, I get mine at Walmart, it sure helps to keep my engines clean on the inside.
I mix 1 ounce per gallon of premix.
It comes in a white domed can with a white cap looks like it could be a spray can but isn't, I don't have mine in front of me so I can't describe it further.
I mix 1 ounce per gallon of premix.
It comes in a white domed can with a white cap looks like it could be a spray can but isn't, I don't have mine in front of me so I can't describe it further.
#2721
My Feedback: (144)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lk Winnebago, Missouri
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I just acquired a Moki 150 and installed it in a Balsa USA 1/3 scale Nieuport 28C. This thread is helpful. I have some questions maybe someone out there can answer. Regarding the pulse generator on the engine, is it reliable and sufficient for steady engine performance throughout the rpm range or is an additional separate electric operated fuel pump required? Is there a less expensive fuel pump available versus the one sold by Vogelsang? For break in, is the 26x16 best or can I turn a more scale 28x12 or 28x14 prop without overloading the engine? Also, is Redline synthetic oil at 40:1 mix OK to run in this engine?
#2722
My Feedback: (10)
My opinion, after installing a Moki 150 in that plane, is that the pulse generator is sufficient but a fuel pump offers a much more certain fuel supply with the obvious trade off in cost and additional complexity. You add some reliability in the fuel supply but lose some reliability in that you add a switch, a battery and the pump itself to the list of things that can break. It's a wash in my opinion but I'm adding pumps to my two 150 powered planes as a few here that I respect advise it and it may cure a running issue I have with one early 150 I have.
As to pumps, get the one from Vogelsang or don't add a pump. You are adding an item that could die and wreck your whole investment, the pump in question is the one everyone uses, is designed for this purpose and is just about bullet proof. Vogelsang is a class act, one of the best guys out there, flies what he sells, knows his stuff and is honest and fair.
Seriously, the decision is wether or not to add a pump and its 60-40 pump no pump, but once you make the decision to add one, the only game in town is Dr Gotz (Vogelsang Aeroscale).
I have been told by Gotz that the 26x16 is the prop for the 150, he recommended that I not run the 28 x 12 prop I was running originally. I have two 28 x 12 props I'm not using if you want one to try we can come to an arrangement I'm sure.
Whit
As to pumps, get the one from Vogelsang or don't add a pump. You are adding an item that could die and wreck your whole investment, the pump in question is the one everyone uses, is designed for this purpose and is just about bullet proof. Vogelsang is a class act, one of the best guys out there, flies what he sells, knows his stuff and is honest and fair.
Seriously, the decision is wether or not to add a pump and its 60-40 pump no pump, but once you make the decision to add one, the only game in town is Dr Gotz (Vogelsang Aeroscale).
I have been told by Gotz that the 26x16 is the prop for the 150, he recommended that I not run the 28 x 12 prop I was running originally. I have two 28 x 12 props I'm not using if you want one to try we can come to an arrangement I'm sure.
Whit
#2723
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lk Winnebago, Missouri
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Thanks Whit for this sound advice. I have talked with and done business with Gotz in the past and I agree he is a class act and Vogelsang is a reputable company with quality products and support after the sale. I like the idea of keeping it simple and will try running this engine without the electric pump, properly tune the engine and adjust the carb for 160 degrees on #3, keep the tube cleaned and see how this one runs. Can add the pump if I need to.
Dennis
Dennis
#2724
I haven't run one of these radials long enough to get a lot of buildup, but on my 2-strokes, using Redline at 40:1 completely cleared out any carbon deposits and left my piston domes very clean. After several tanks, the gunk in the exhaust also was a thing of the past. I'm not sure if Seafoam and Redline have any additives in common. Right now, I'm breaking in an Evolution 260 radial on the Redline, waiting on my plane to show up now.
#2725
My Feedback: (62)
Dennis, A very easy check on whether the pulse pump on your engine works well or not, When running your engine at full throttle, can you adjust the high speed needle more open so the engine goes over rich, if not, you will need a fuel pump. I had a 150 and a 215 that could not be richened with the pulse pump. Another 215 I had could. Also adjust the throttle so that the carb goes to 3/4 open or so. (then play with the needles) The choke area is too large. This will give you better running qualities with little to no loss in power. My current 215 is adjusted to 5/8's open and it runs excellent pulling a 32 pound Yak 55 SP straight up! It could hover but I don't. Redline 1;40 is good. (I use 1:44). Yes Gotz is a gentleman.